Rear differential options 53' 3/4 ton

[dsraven]

you need to know your wheel track width. front and rear. then go to a site like crankshaft coalition and see what else is close. according to their website info the measurements are 125.25, 62.6, 52.1 -- 1947-'54 Chevy AD 3/4 ton. try this site for the tech page of specs. peruse through till you find something that will work and go from there.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...l_measurements

[whitedog76]

The 98-2010 look a littler heavier duty. More like the F150 ones. So, I'll say go with them.

The 83-97 Would probably be o.k. to.

Whatever you do, make sure you get a matched set front-back.

[whitedog76]

The rear on the HO52 rearend is 62.5 or like the previous post shows, 62.6.

The frame on the 3600 is narrower in back than the 3100's, so going narrower is always an option too.

[dsraven]

do you plan on using an independent front suspension to get the front disc brakes or just add the disc brake conversion to your solid axle? if you plan to swap out the front end with an independent type you may want to look at the scotts hotrod style. it uses a complete cross member that has both the upper and lower control arm pivot points already attached to it with the proper geometry built in. the cross member is either a weld in or bolt in style and then assemble all the peripherals like control arms, spindles etc. the issue with a mustangII style cross member is that the upper control arm pivot mount is a weld in and separate from the actual cross member. it makes it harder to know, from a layman's point of view, if the cross member and the upper pivot are in the right geometry in relation to each other. also, most guys (even online how to's) would use a bubble level to assemble the parts which is not as accurate as the one piece cross member idea which is welded up in a jig at the manufacturer so the angles should be right on for future alignment.
you could also check out a ford 8.8 rear axle from a mustang (centered pumpkin)or explorer (offset pumpkin). they come with disc brakes on some models and also posi. 3.73 ratio is common as well as large axle size. check out the ranger station online for more info. if you would be required to use a narrower track width some guys are using the offset exporer diff, narrowing the long side axle tube or simply pressing in an axle tube from the short side of another explorer diff and then using 2 of the short side axles. that would mean the pumpkin would be centered again. there is info about that online as well. they are a pretty heavy duty unit and if high performance is added later then a simple cast diff cover with torque down bolts to bear down on the carrier side bearing caps is recommended. some will say they need an axle bearing style change but I have personally never heard of anyone losing an axle from a failed bearing. that could also be done at a later date if you went with High performance engine. a friend of mine installed a high hp tubo'd chevy ls engine into his mustang and never had a problem with the stock diff that had the performance diff cover installed.
just some thoughts.

[1953]

So replace all 4 spring mounts on the rear leafs with the suggested ones above

[busjockey]

i have a 1948 3/4 ton chevy I had to replace the frame on and the spring hangers are still on the old frame. If you need one let me know. I live in Texas. I am looking for a part for my 3/4 ton rear axel. Lost the spacer between the upper and lower bearing on the shaft inside the rear end. Was thinking about using the original gears with an S10 transmission. Should be able to go 60 with that set up.