How much rust is too much?

[drivea55]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

oooh! ogre want that

x2 and it's FREE

[SCHRUMGMC]

I know I asked yalls opinions but I sat down and thought hard about this

I have every single patch panel to fix the cab..

My friend who is a fabricator and welder said he would only charge me $800 to fix the cab
Yes I know its cheap but he knows what he is doing and I am excited to see the outcome

Check out my thread on my project if you're interested in learning more about my trucks
restoration

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by SCHRUMGMC

I know I asked yalls opinions but I sat down and thought hard about this

I have every single patch panel to fix the cab..

My friend who is a fabricator and welder said he would only charge me $800 to fix the cab
Yes I know its cheap but he knows what he is doing and I am excited to see the outcome

Check out my thread on my project if you're interested in learning more about my trucks
restoration

I know I said this before but I would really think hard about redoing this one. unless your sand blasting inside and out of every spot that can be blasted. Sand blasting rust comes with its own problems like thinning the metal once the rust id gone. its also weaker afterwards. I can almost guarantee that in 1 to 3 years the paint will start to bubble and rust will appear in areas near where you fixed it. We do 1 or2 of these a month and its going to be expensive and the result may be less than you were expecting. The picture below is a 50 but this is where your going to end up before you get all the rust. this cost 12500 to make new, it should have been a new cab but it was the owners desire to keep it and fix it. So he paid 12.5k for an $8500 cab

[SCHRUMGMC]

We are going to be putting POR-15 everywhere is trying to prevent any more rust

[franken]

POR is paint over rust. You don't plan to do that so be aware that over a not correctly prepped surface, POR can peel right off. You also pretty much can't blast, prep, or get paint into some spaced, just FYI.
Your friend's estimate of cost for metalwork is unrealistic. Getting the tools off CL and learning the skills is more realistic. The cab is a bit rough. Try pricing all the needed patch panels, not all of which are available. Better to fabricate some bits.
Swapping VINs isn't a great idea. Its a federal issue, there are hidden VIN and correct ways to attach the plates.

[SCHRUMGMC]

I have every single patch panel you could imagine for this cab Frank
and yes, It may take more money than I have originally said
but he knows what he is doing

[roger55]

Originally Posted by franken

...
Swapping VINs isn't a great idea. Its a federal issue, there are hidden VIN and correct ways to attach the plates.

The fed law only applies to when it's done for illegal purposes. Exceptions are made if the purpose of the altering is for a legal one.

States have their own laws on it too. Some states allow it. My state, Texas, does allow it for certain purposes.

Also, there aren't hidden VINs. Only the Vin tag, frame and some components like engine and transmission will have VIN numbers on them. The latter 2 can depend on the year of vintage.

[SCHRUMGMC]

I am not swapping vins or anything. The cab is and will be fixed

I am pretty excited because it means that I am only step closer
to driving this truck on the road

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by franken

POR is paint over rust. You don't plan to do that so be aware that over a not correctly prepped surface, POR can peel right off. You also pretty much can't blast, prep, or get paint into some spaced, just FYI.
Your friend's estimate of cost for metalwork is unrealistic. Getting the tools off CL and learning the skills is more realistic. The cab is a bit rough. Try pricing all the needed patch panels, not all of which are available. Better to fabricate some bits.
Swapping VINs isn't a great idea. Its a federal issue, there are hidden VIN and correct ways to attach the plates.

I've never seen a hidden vin on one of these. Just cab ( plate) and frame
stamped. The only other number I have seen on a 55 59 is a year stamp on back panel low on the corner of 58 and 59 which is usually gone and not on all of them

[SCHRUMGMC]

The tailgate only had one small hole

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

I've never seen a hidden vin on one of these. Just cab ( plate) and frame
stamped. The only other number I have seen on a 55 59 is a year stamp on back panel low on the corner of 58 and 59 which is usually gone and not on all of them

55-59 has two frame stamps, one in front of the steering column on top of frame rail, second under the cap on top of the drive frame rail. A lot of GM cars have the vin stamped on the back side of the passenger rear wheel well visible from the trunk with a mirror.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

55-59 has two frame stamps, one in front of the steering column on top of frame rail, second under the cap on top of the drive frame rail. A lot of GM cars have the vin stamped on the back side of the passenger rear wheel well visible from the trunk with a mirror.

I was assuming "Hidden" was as in not on the frame or cab tag but stamped into the sheet metal in a hidden place or other parts.

[franken]

Yes, please feel free to swap VINs as needed on anything. All will be well.

[SCHRUMGMC]

I'm not swapping anything. I'm just going to fix the cab and call it done

[franken]

How much is too much is up to the op. Into the the roof is rough.

[SCHRUMGMC]

I have another top that will replace the rotted one

[Softpatch]

Ok sound Like you made up your mind.... Good luck on your build
"pawpaws truck"
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