'50 chevy 3100

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

... do these trucks have anything go between the brace and the sheet metal on the under side like I've seen on newer trucks?

Yes, there is a reinforcement pad that goes between hood and the brace. It shows it in the 47-54 assy. manual. Most, if not all, are missing by the time we get to work on the hood....Jim

[Matt_50]

Thanks..ive seen them for newer trucks in the catalogs...ill look a little more or make something work.

I started sanding one of the fenders today...lot of cracked paint and at this point I might need to go ahead and go to the metal all over. I expected more layers of paint but its just a layer of primer and one of paint. On the lip where the hood meets the fender though, i can see another color lol. How do you guys feel about those polycarbide abrasive wheels that go on angle grinders?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z8DYBQxcAkrDZMlY2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CE6BmBAIr3JS1fbp1

I found a weird...umm repair maybe? I expected to maybe find bondo but this looks like brass. What do you guys think it is.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/82XrBg7K7ZFbjV463

[iowaboynca]

depends on where and what the repair might be...remember back in the day before plastic (bondo, filler) repairs were likely to use lead to sort things out.

fun journey right?

[Matt_50]

Im not buying it yet... not until I'm dry to drop the motor in but I'm looking at radiators. I'm lmc and brothers..classic. etc. I'm seeing 300 + that also cool the trans. Online I'm finding far lower costs. What do you guys recommend? And particular brand or sellers you guys favor?

[Matt_50]

I want to make sure my cherry picker will work... What would the weight be of my 350 and the th350 trans if I pull them as a unit? Should I use a load leveler? When I install into the 50 I want to make sure I have everything in good locations so I can set mounts.

[mongocanfly]

small block engine weighs in under 600lbs...t350 trans goes about 125lbs...engine leveler are great to have..

[Matt_50]

Thanks. A leveler should allow me to not need to remove anything right? 4 chains instead of 2 across I should be able to keep carb and distributor in place for a nice quick grab and drop right? Should I use exhaust bolts or head bolts on front and back? 3/8th size grade 8 sound right?

[Matt_50]

Not much accomplished today. From another thread I did find out the motor I pulled is a 1958 235. Body work is going ok, I'll post pics in a few days once I finish the floor in the cab.

[Matt_50]

Having to wait on a couple of things so I decided to see about cleaning up the fuel tank. Still seems solid, little rust on outside. Dirt and rust came out of it so I was thinking of doing the vinager truck. Anyone used vinager before? How long, how much? Baking soda to neutralize? Use a sealant for inside after?

Secondly, I've read where I could use a later fuel pickup and sender to do away with gravity red lines. Heard this was safer. Any thoughts?

[Matt_50]

Ok I got some stuff in. Mostly door stuff right now, I was missing inside door handles and window cranks. Rolled up driver side window...unfortunatly it needs replacing. I also got my "new" floor. I'm actually taking the good non rusted out floor from another cab. Before anyone gets upset about me cutting up another cab, first it was free. Second, it was pretty messed up already. Everything had already been stripped out of it and the reason I think the floor was in ok shape is because it was on its roof. The roof is pretty caved in. Floor isn't perfect and its missing trans cover but I think I can make a cover out of other sheet metal.

In preparation for the floor I've been cleaning the can up. Getting the rats nest of deteriorating wire out, plus got the steering column out today. Also been cleaning the gas tank. Very happy with it, inside is cleaning up real pretty. Not sure if I should leave it as bare metal or add a sealer yet. Local parts place has red kote, anyone use this?

[joedoh]

if you stripped it with vinegar I would seal it.

when I pull engines and trans together I use two sets of chains, short ones to the rings and then I wrap one around the trans at the bellhousing twice and then to the hook. I use a couple grade 5 bolts to tie the chains together and give it a test lift a couple times to make sure its lifting even and doesnt slip.

dont forget, when you pull the driveshaft you will have a crime scene of trans fluid, I like to cut the driveshaft right at the yoke but if you dont want to cut it you can separate the u joint there, then tape the yoke in the trans to make sure it doesnt fall out.

[Matt_50]

When you say to the rings.. do you mean the factory lift points? I've looked and can't see any, this was a new 350 crate motor so I'm not sure but may be there was some on the old 305. I've pulled engines and trans separately, couple bolts on both heads. Just not a engine and trans together, I think this would be best when I try to find the crossmember locations when I drop it into the 3100. So I'm a little worried about where to hook up the chains. Would a leveler allow me to keep distributor on? I know the clearance depends a lot on the distributor when I put the engine in the 3100.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

When you say to the rings.. do you mean the factory lift points? I've looked and can't see any, this was a new 350 crate motor so I'm not sure but may be there was some on the old 305. I've pulled engines and trans separately, couple bolts on both heads. Just not a engine and trans together, I think this would be best when I try to find the crossmember locations when I drop it into the 3100. So I'm a little worried about where to hook up the chains. Would a leveler allow me to keep distributor on? I know the clearance depends a lot on the distributor when I put the engine in the 3100.

yes, the factory lift points. if you dont have any you will have to get creative, like bolting the chain to the head either where there is an empty hole for an accessory or even an intake bolt, but be careful on the intake bolts. there is also a plate you can buy that bolts to where the carb is. a load leveler wont give you any attachment points, but it does usually have the little brackets to attach.

as long as you dont have the chains in the area of the distributor you can leave it in.

[Matt_50]

Got the bad sections of the floor cut out. Also went after other rust spots on the cab, looks like one corner will be replaced as well. Everything is either out or coming out of cab. Nothing is left on the firewall, but I still lack pulling out the gauges. New ones sure are pricey, I feel like I might have seen a thread where a c10 speedometer was used in factory spot, maybe I can make something work. I can also buy the three gauge under dash set as a temporary solution until I can afford new ones. Anyone know of any threads of diy gauge rebuild?

I'm looking at classic parts for a v8 crossmember...what do you guys think? Once floor is in I'll be ready to swap over the IFS and I'll want to put the engine in soon after. Then I can start planning pedal locations and brake lines.

[gigamanx]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=541904&page=6

Starting on post #144 of this thread from @skymangs. That should give you some idea of how you can repurpose the gauge cluster. I'm trying to keep mine as stock as possible for nostalgia, but I have a feeling when all is said and done I'll end up with a set of these I saw in another build:

http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerc...uge-kit-beige/

[Matt_50]

Gigamanx thanks for that link. I have new gauges in the cup but I'm pretty certain I kept the old ones. I'll dig them out and see how they come apart and if I can fit them on a template. If it looks good I'll be willing to rear apart the newer and working ones.

I got the 235 sold! So new goodies are being ordered. Just a few things at a time, nice and slow on ordering stuff. I don't want to buy to much at once. Doesn't mean I'm not looking through a lot of catalogs though!

I have found a couple of people who have done this IFS swap and they have been very helpful and forthcoming with info and advice. Lots of pics and a few suggestions and I'm still hooked on the idea.

Cab is coming along great and I took a break on it to sand the hood down. So far it looks like the hood and two fenders are dent free. The other two fenders need a little tlc but looks like minor stuff. The bed is in great shape too. Only the cab is in need of a lot of work. The cab is taking a bit longer, my welder friend is teaching me some welding basics and said the floor would be a great place to learn....yea...im learning alright. He checks my work, I redo some, he checks some more. He is thankfully doing big stuff on his own. I'll post some pics soon.

[Matt_50]

Found crack in the frame!

I was under the cab and noticed it. So passenger side underneath front cab mount bolt. That support piece that the floor welds to covers it up. Anyways theres a rivet that holds the bracket that supports the steps underneath that support. The crack goes through the top of the frame, and through that rivet. So the top L shape of the frame and goes down maybe a third of the way.

My welding friend hasn't been back out yet but thinks it shouldn't be a problem to fix. Says frames are cut, shortened or spliced together all the time. I'm concerned as to why it cracked..is the age a problem and will be a further problem? Should be just weld it, or put new metal pieces on either side and sandwich the repair too? Bolted or welded. Would it be good to box the area?

[mongocanfly]

crack from age and stress..your buddies correct..frames are cut and welded all the time...if done properly I wouldn't have a problem with it..never hurts to box the frame either. .

[Matt_50]

I started a new project today and I think it's working out pretty good. I read skymangs thread and I read a tech article on stevebolt about putting a volt meter in an ampmeter spot. So I pulled the gauge cluster out and got it all pulled apart.

Gauge out..

I popped the faces off by grinding the little rivets off.



I grabbed the "new" gauges. From my c10. About five years old, I replaced the big gas gauge for a rpm gauge and had the clock taken out. A nice little kit was available and now it looks like the money won't be wasted.

C10 gauges..

Started taking gauges apart.


Now to put the old faces on the new gauges. The screw holes didn't line up and because of the indentions where the screws did go, I decided to flip the gauges over so I could use the flat side. I lined up the new gauges to the old faces and marked and drilled holes.

New gauge/old face
https://goo.gl/photos/vLn3yPZGqsbZQeDBA

It looked good so I decided to do the others. One needle popped off, just needs a little glue. I held them all together with a little tape to check on clearances.
https://goo.gl/photos/KoyxfbhKmG8h8rZUA

I then put the cover over them. I might need to do something similar to what skymangs did..he had a piece of metal holding all the faces together and it was between the faces and the new gauges. I say this because it would help hold them together and because my new needles are taller than the old ones..so I'll space them back.

With cover.

https://goo.gl/photos/RxejTzWQsy69aXV88

So I can buy new decals for a few bucks. Not sure yet what I'll do about two gauges being backwards. Two of the old gauges went to the right to show low right?

[Matt_50]

I messed up the pics...how do I get the pics to load without needing to click on the link?

Here's the gauge pictures.

https://goo.gl/photos/g9wBbFUyu6rX5UfUA

[mongocanfly]

maybe this'll help....http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...sting+pictures

[Matt_50]

Ok, in case others had issues with the links. Thanks for the picture help.

[Matt_50]

So i ordered the engine universal tubular crossmember and mounts. I have been reading various v8 swap builds and I want to make sure I have my facts straight. I'm installing a 350/350 combo. I need to go back just far enough so there is still room to pull distributor. The old motor crossmember comes out...and the tubular one will go in. The trans crossmember needs to be removed and placed under the frame.

I am unfortunately doing this outside in the dirt. I'm thinking that when I'm ready to install the engine and trans that I need to level the truck. That or put a level on truck and one on engine when installed. I'm thinking just leveling the truck will be easier or better.

When I set the crossmember locations, I need to do so by putting a level on my carburetor and mount the engine with the carburetor level correct? Will this also make my trans pan level?

Im concerned with putting everything in so I get good fuel, good oil flow, good trans oil flow, and be able to set pinion angle. I'm not 100% clear on how far off I can get without issues.

[Matt_50]

Well I'm finally back at it. I've been on again off again sick for two weeks and have not felt like doing much outside. Well I had hoped to get floor done but it's not quite there. Buddy came out and redid half of what I started.. a bummer but at least it's getting done right. One side is completely done and looks awesome though!

I started a side project. Steering column. I've never taken any all the way apart, replaced a couple air bags and clocksprings and an ignition or two but that's it. I started a thread on this little project because I was a little lost but I talked an old mechanic and I found a breakdown for a Belair and I think I understand all the inside a now.

Junkyard I went to did not have a complete steering wheel in the place and I think I'm missing something on the one I grabbed for my new column. I'm not sure what type of horn button it should have any ideas?

What is the prong thing on the back of this steering wheel for?

I can fit my original one on... I think I will test fixing of cracks on it at the very least.

Column came out of a 57 chevy Belair and I think it will look a lot more original than the c10 one.

[Matt_50]

The pics, one is of original steering wheel. It doesn't cover the new column though.