Dustless Blasting / media blasting quote

[cornerstone]

I've been wanting one of the Eastwood SCTs since the first time I saw one. My brother in law is primarily into woodworking, so most of his tools are for that purpose. When he showed me his Jet brand drum sander I was surprised how well it performed. The eastwood tool is a hand held version of the jet sander. Call me Capt. Obvious

I do like to use my pneumatic angle grinder with roloc discs, but I love the idea of not having swirls in the finish. It's definitely a want and not a need. Maybe I can justify the 300. bucks because of the time it would save me?


"My name is Brian, and I have a tool addiction"

[67C10Step]

Got this SCT on my Christmas list. I also do a bit of wood working and my latest projects have been live edge cherry end tables. I do a lot of rough in work with a sanding disc on an angle grinder and I see this tool doing a lot of that work as well.

See? I am justifying on more than one front. I, too, have a tool addiction.

[fourspeedwagon]

Hadn’t seen that Eastwood tool before, looks , like a good machine.

Local dustless guy quoted me 550 to do my ‘47 panel truck and 250 to do the 9’ bed (with fenders, tailgate and running boards) for my ‘51. Seemed reasonable and I’m planning to schedule it.

[akart]

Originally Posted by May70

So I have a variable speed buffer with a 7" sander attachment. It took this off in one small pass with 240 grit but the metal was hot to the touch after just that. How hot is TOO HOT (to risk warping the panel)? I feel like if I used that thing for more than a second it would get really hot.

I tried a wire cup and that was much slower and made it way hotter than the buffer. What makes this contour sct machine magically not put as much heat into the panel??????? how hot does the panel get using the contour machine? The only difference I see is a drum vs pad which does not seem like it would make that much heat difference.

Ive used chemical stripper before but I have also read to avoid them because they can cause failure with paint later and that there is no way to 100% not have that risk.

I got another quote today from a different media blaster. He would just say 200$/hr plus 13$/bag and couldn't even give me an estimation of how long it would take. Which seems very strange and he wanted them dropped off and he would call me when they were done, so I couldn't see for my self how long it took them. Everyone wants to get rich quick off the average guy who barely makes it.

Chemical stripper can cause later paint failure?? Yah,I think I heard that too.I think it was on Sesame St. If the metal is stripped to bare and lightly sanded for paintable surface how can the stripper possibly effect the paint??

[fourspeedwagon]

The problems I’ve been aware of with chemical stripping is when they dip the entire thing in a tank. Getting it out of pinched panels like the inside/bottom of the door, then it weeps and bubbles the paint. I know first hand of a couple antique cars that had this issue. Pops was into restoring brass era cars and there was a period when the horseless carriage guys thought dipping was the way to go. The pros may have it figured out by now.

[special-K]

I've used chemical stripper extensively and never had an issue. But I have never had anything dipped. Prepsol dissolves and clears away the stripper

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by fourspeedwagon

The problems I’ve been aware of with chemical stripping is when they dip the entire thing in a tank. Getting it out of pinched panels like the inside/bottom of the door, then it weeps and bubbles the paint. I know first hand of a couple antique cars that had this issue. Pops was into restoring brass era cars and there was a period when the horseless carriage guys thought dipping was the way to go. The pros may have it figured out by now.

From what I have heard from some very reliable sources is the dipping process works. Sometimes, unfortunately too good. Once it starts eating on a heavily rusted area it will continue as the acids keep reacting. The other downfall of it is that it will eat the old seam sealer out of doors thus letting the door skin flop around and leave tiny crevices there.

I also spoke to a shop that does this and they claim they can pull a vehicle out when it is considered done. How would this be determined? I would guess by acid strength and time. I will shy away from it now.

I have seen a truck cab done this way, dude was not too happy. In the pillars, he thought he had a pretty rust free one. He ended up with having to do the lower pillar supports anyways due in part cause the rust could not be seen. It ate some pretty big holes. He thought that was not going to have to be cut and weld patch panels in there.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by fourspeedwagon

The problems I’ve been aware of with chemical stripping is when they dip the entire thing in a tank. Getting it out of pinched panels like the inside/bottom of the door, then it weeps and bubbles the paint. I know first hand of a couple antique cars that had this issue. Pops was into restoring brass era cars and there was a period when the horseless carriage guys thought dipping was the way to go. The pros may have it figured out by now.

I am not sold on it yet, one reason Hydrogen Embrittlement.

[CG]

A lot of high end builders and restoration shops use dipping. I think the graveyard cars guys use dipping and their stuff is high end.

I feel like these type of people wouldn’t use dipping if it was a problem

[special-K]

If you dip in stripper you should then dip or have a way to flush out with solvent. I don't see an issue with dissolving seam sealer. Isn't the idea to get to bare bones all metal? Can't there be evil lurking behind the seam sealer? Isn't that a very common area for rust, where panels are hemmed, welded, or otherwise joined? Isn't new seam sealer part of a full restoration?

Same with the stripper eating rust holes where you didn't think any rust was. Good thing! I want to know where rust is so I can fix it. Isn't it typical to find rust you didn't know was there until you disassembled? And isn't it typical to find more rust once you start putting tools to the metal? The dustless sandblasting will blow holes out where pits were the same as sandblasting. The same with abrasive tooling if you try to get the pits smooth. It's not the fault of the process used. It's the fault of years of decay prior to restoration. With deep pitting I clean to where surrounding area is clean, then use chemical treatment on pitted area to turn oxide into phosphate. This is on sheet metal. On heavy gauge I blast clean.

[CG]

Reading through this again. The hourly rates quoted by the dustless blasters seems just this side of insane. Who do these guys think they are attorney's? Oh wait, those guys are insane too. haha.

Maybe its part of the sales pitch when someone buys in to the dustless blasting business ... You can charge XXX per hour! Probably helps them move their business, but maybe not so much when it comes to the real world?

I don't remember how much it cost when I had my panel blasted (forever ago), I don't recall it being overly crazy. I had a bunch of stuff done at the same time. I do remember though I only had them blast the hard edges if that makes sense? I didn't want them messing up the large flat areas. You never know how much the guy in the blasting suit actually cares. Maybe he was having a crap day and was probably better off doing frame blasting that day instead of large flat panels.

[volksworld]

had my hood done years ago with conventional dry media blasting using plastic media...no problems, no warping and it was under 100 bucks...of course it doesnt remove rust, just paint primer and bondo...had tried 100 grit on a DA and it was oil-canning so badly i figured it would never be straight if i did it myself

[Jrainman]

Originally Posted by fourspeedwagon

Hadn’t seen that Eastwood tool before, looks , like a good machine.

Local dustless guy quoted me 550 to do my ‘47 panel truck and 250 to do the 9’ bed (with fenders, tailgate and running boards) for my ‘51. Seemed reasonable and I’m planning to schedule it.

Wow I think that is a fair price ,and I would not hesitate on that price , you may have found the one guy that understands that a 1/2 of loaf of bread is better then no bread at all .

[JoeKan]

I just had my 67 blasted and am very pleased with the outcome. 2 fenders, 2 doors, hood and truck bed was $660. The truck cab was not included because the Blaster wanted it off the frame and I do not have the expertise in doing that yet. So I've been sanding that myself.
I have my pride and joy, 1968 International Harvester, that I will be restoring after my 67 and
would not hesitate in using the Blaster again

[special-K]

Originally Posted by CG

I don't remember how much it cost when I had my panel blasted (forever ago), I don't recall it being overly crazy. I had a bunch of stuff done at the same time. I do remember though I only had them blast the hard edges if that makes sense? I didn't want them messing up the large flat areas. You never know how much the guy in the blasting suit actually cares. Maybe he was having a crap day and was probably better off doing frame blasting that day instead of large flat panels.

Yeah, when I said you can get away with sand blasting using better technique (in so many words) I was thinking I should have added or emphasized the "You" part. I would never send that work to a shop, only do myself. My guy does a great job, his guys are great people, and I've dealt with him for 40 years. But I'm not taking any chances. Plus he is a 'commercial painting' enterprise anyway.

[Abomb]

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-...eel-94017.html

Try these out, they work fantastic, and the heat build up is minimal...

[67C10Step]

Abomb,
Too funny. I burned up two of those today. At $5 a pop they arent too bad. Wonder if the more expensive ones last longer. I’m sure someone will chime in.

[May70]

Originally Posted by Abomb

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-...eel-94017.html

Try these out, they work fantastic, and the heat build up is minimal...

My harbor freight does not sell these. I may run over the to the next city and see if they have them. I doubt it though bc I know the same truck stops at both places the same day. May just have to order them

[Grumpy old man]

I know a lot of guys just don't have the time, space or equipment to strip their truck/ frame themselves or it's just easier to hand it off to someone else to do for you but if you do, A cheap simple media blaster and a 1/2 dozen 3M stripping wheels will get the job done for under $100 without any panel warp . just use a slow speed on the wheels or an electric drill and 90 psi when blasting . your choice cash or labor you ll have to give up one . Never use play sand , always wear a mask and face shield .

[special-K]

I have a pressurized sand blaster, but I still hand off most sand blasting (no body panels) to the business I deal with. He treats me right and sand blasting is not a lot of fun for me. It's a nice country ride and is one of my favorite things, something I look forward to doing. If I had a cabinet I'd have all my old small parts on the shelf looking good. I just take stuff up to him when I have a little extra money.

EDIT: I just had this show up on my computer. Haven't listened to it yet or even read it. Just saw it is 50% off and the short clip I saw showed paint jumping off like it was dirt

https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https...cEd3XlVcqngs-I

[bigmac73]

MAY70

I got a quote a few years ago from tidewater soda blasting they said it would be 450 for a cab and 10 dollars a linear foot for my bed sides. Did you give them a call??

[Jrainman]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I know a lot of guys just don't have the time, space or equipment to strip their truck/ frame themselves or it's just easier to hand it off to someone else to do for you but if you do, A cheap simple media blaster and a 1/2 dozen 3M stripping wheels will get the job done for under $100 without any panel warp . just use a slow speed on the wheels or an electric drill and 90 psi when blasting . your choice cash or labor you ll have to give up one . Never use play sand , always wear a mask and face shield .

I stripped my cab, doors and fenders using those 3m stipping wheels .they work great 5 or 6 bucks each at wallyworld . I sand blast my frames using my local eqipment rental place ,I rent commercial sand blasting set up ,and get black beuty from tractor supply I am all in for $225 on total cost sometime a little less

[JoeKan]

Originally Posted by Jrainman

I stripped my cab, doors and fenders using those 3m stipping wheels .they work great 5 or 6 bucks each at wallyworld . I sand blast my frames using my local eqipment rental place ,I rent commercial sand blasting set up ,and get black beuty from tractor supply I am all in for $225 on total cost sometime a little less

Do you have to get the frame shiny or just get the rust off? I'm using a grinder with a wire wheel on my and so far, it's been knocking it all off and it looks clean but not shiny.

[67C10Step]

I did a few test spots on my frame with wire wheel and the paint/rust stripping wheels. Looks like they will do for most of it and hit the tight spots with my small blaster with black beauty from tractor supply.

[May70]

Originally Posted by bigmac73

MAY70

I got a quote a few years ago from tidewater soda blasting they said it would be 450 for a cab and 10 dollars a linear foot for my bed sides. Did you give them a call??

That first quote was from hampton roads media blasting, do you have a number for tidewater soda blasting? It looks like maybe they changed their name to beach soda blasting?

Im going to order one of those disks grumpy posted and try it out...