Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!

[Woodnears]

I don’t remember the name but there is a shop in okc that was selling motors for 500 bux. Most were just over 100k miles.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by Woodnears

I don’t remember the name but there is a shop in okc that was selling motors for 500 bux. Most were just over 100k miles.

Nice! I'll have to do some more digging. Thanks!

[EagleChief]

Just curious - pros and cons of keeping my 700r4 transmission, or going with the 4l60e transmission?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by EagleChief

Just curious - pros and cons of keeping my 700r4 transmission, or going with the 4l60e transmission?

Its really hard to hook up a TV cable to the throttle body of an LS engine and get the geometry correct so it will last. Virtually impossible to do to a DBW throttle body....

[LS short box]

Just .02 but I would use the 4L60E due to it being computer controlled. Shift point changes are only a key stroke away on a lap top. Just make sure the engine and trans are compatible along with the ecm.

[jimboh247]

I am definitely following along on this one.
Wanting to do an LS swap in my 85.

[jjzepplin]

My biggest hurdle so far is the fuel tank and pump assembly.

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

My biggest hurdle so far is the fuel tank and pump assembly.

TANKS INC FUEL PUMPS

[mongocanfly]

Boyd's tanks is in Ocala if you want aftermarket.. http://www.boydwelding.com/contact-us

[jjzepplin]

I just bought a 6.0L LQ9 for $375. I cringe when I have to spend that much on a fuel pump or tank. There has to be a cheaper way. I am leaning into using a stock fuel pump but retro fitting into my existing tank.

[bigmoe]

I just finished my first LS swap. My plan was to keep it as simple as possible. Insurance auctions are a good source. I got an 08 Tahoe 5.3 that had only 69000km on it. On the down side it was a 4wd so I couldn't use the tranny but was able to straight swap it for a 2wd tranny at a wrecker. If you're watching insurance auctions if you look for a van or work truck it will have a 2wd tranny. I also bid (but lost) on a few Escalades for the 6.2 which would be a good score.

It's good to get all you can from one vehicle. That eliminates the risk of getting something not compatible. I got the engine wiring harness and ECM and TCM as well as gas pedal. I got battery cables and megafuse and power cables to starter/alternator. I labelled the plugs on the wiring harness as to where they go if it wasn't obvious. I sent the harness to a guy who reworked it (thinned out unnecessary wires) and he terminated the end with necessary relays and fuses so I just had to hook it up. I sent the ECM/TCM off to be reprogrammed to remove VATS, etc.

I splurged on a Dakota Digital dash and BIM module. It was expensive but it just plugs into the OBD II outlet but it saves a lot of other hassles.

[bigmoe]

Originally Posted by Thealien

TANKS INC FUEL PUMPS

I used the Tanks Inc universal USPT-GH. There are two fill options, one on top and one on the side. It's only 15 gallons but it fits nicely between the rails and doesn't hang down below the bumper. I ordered it with the GPA-4 pump and TAN-sw sending unit.

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by bigmoe

I used the Tanks Inc universal USPT-GH. There are two fill options, one on top and one on the side. It's only 15 gallons but it fits nicely between the rails and doesn't hang down below the bumper. I ordered it with the GPA-4 pump and TAN-sw sending unit.

Just finished my Blazer tank (for a Blazer) with the Tanks Inc PA-5 pump.

[Richard]

Am using a stock dead head system with PWM pump on my LSA swap. The controller is made by Vaporworx. After meeting up with the owner I cannot see any reason to go aftermarket on the pump/fuel delivery system. Many benefits to using a stock PWM pump. A no brainer to me, especially on a no motor mod swap.

[EagleChief]

Thanks guys. Pretty much made up my mind to use the 4l60e, but I was just looking for clarification on the differences. Went and talked to the salvage yard about their setup this past Friday. Engine, trans, accessories, wiring, computers, all of it delivered for $1750 (mileage = 120k-140k miles).

They led me to another installer that does it as a second job/hobby. He's a firefighter in my town, lives in my hometown. I'm waiting for him to call me back to get some info from him. I'm still trying to decide if I'm going to do it, or have someone do it for me. According to the salvage guys, he charges about $2k for the swap.

[Factory Guy]

Here is an awesome swap guide from I group I feel who knows what they are doing.

https://tejassteelworks.com/wp-conte...uide-73_87.pdf

[EagleChief]

Has anyone used a set of motor mounts like these? They are made in Wichita, Kansas.

https://smile.amazon.com/ICT-Billet-...kle_mcd_asin_0

In my list, I have the Dirty Dingo mounts jotted down to use. But, $150 compared to $40 is quite the difference. Pros/Cons?

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by EagleChief

Has anyone used a set of motor mounts like these? They are made in Wichita, Kansas.

https://smile.amazon.com/ICT-Billet-...kle_mcd_asin_0

In my list, I have the Dirty Dingo mounts jotted down to use. But, $150 compared to $40 is quite the difference. Pros/Cons?

Those adapter plates are the same ones that my installer recommended. I bought a set and they actually feel substantial in my hands. I haven’t installed them yet so I can’t verify their fit just yet.

[bigmoe]

Those are a similar style to the Blackheart Racing ones I used. There are 4 positions. Position 1 is closest to the firewall. Positions 1 and 2 are an inch apart but then because of the big allen head bolt there is a bigger 2" jump from position 2 to 3, then 1 more inch to position 4. Position 3 happened to work best for my 65.

[EagleChief]

Thanks guys for the feedback! About to place an order for them and some fuel line & fittings! Going to start rampin' up on the process.

[clay68c10]

I’m running the hooker/Holley stands. Very nice and well made.
My speed engineering headers clear with some slight clearancing and dimpling.

[Joemomma1]

I'm in the same boat but am going to change up my approach as my previous mindset kept my project a project for 10 years. Every single person that I asked regarding taking on the swap said the same thing, get it in and get it running. Set it in the frame and build from there. Resist all urges to gather parts ahead of time as they may not work and buy a quality BP or PSI harness. It ran before you pulled it so it will run if you leave it alone and keep it as simple as possible. Once its running, then you can start modifying. Taking this advice has kept my project moving with minimal expense and confusion. I was able to use the factory accessories and exhaust manifolds that I've read/heard countless times was not possible.

[EagleChief]

I got the truck back in the garage last night. Next time I get some free time, I'm going to start draining the fluids to prep pulling the motor. *fingers crossed*

I've got my fuel lines and mounts. Just ordered the stock '71 mounts as well.

[EagleChief]

Drained the radiator and disconnected it from the motor. Drained the oil. Started unhooking some wires and marking them in the process. Also unbolted the headers from the engine. So far, that's about it. I'm going to try and get the drive shaft undone next.

Other than that, is there anything else I could prep in order to have this motor ready to pull?

[jessemthompson]

Pull the radiator, disconnect heater hoses, unbolt trans mount, disconnect throttle linkage, disconnect fuel lines