Firewall clearance with a 292 straight 6

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Justin Jones

We don't always do what makes sense but sometimes do what we want to do. lol. It might not help much but we do intend to also incorporate the mods you listed as well aside from the steering box. We've installed a rack and pinion which is aluminum.

The 292 is original to the truck so we are keeping it and we're trying to make it as light as possible.

OK, sounds cool. Good luck!

[Justin Jones]

Originally Posted by MikeB

OK, sounds cool. Good luck!

Thanks! We will probably need it.

[MS66]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Yeah, I doubt you'd see even 30-40 pounds less weight on the front tires. I'm sure an engineer could put an actual number on it.

Battery relocation and an aluminum radiator would probably save you more up-front weight than moving the engine back a couple inches. Also an aluminum water pump, if available, and a manual steering box.
All the above are located well forward of the engine center line; some ahead of the axle line.

However, it sounds like your minds are made up on a set-back 292. I hope it works out for you.

^^^ this

[factorystock]

Saw this post late. For anyone trying to remove pushrods with engine in place. There is not enough clearance for pushrod removal. '66 shown, but '67-'72 probably has the same issue. Here is what GM recommended.

['68OrangeSunshine]

The Book doesn't say what to do with all the holes after you've buttoned the engine back up.

[Steeveedee]

They may not be in a position where one has to worry about water infiltration, but I would do something with the raw edges, because they are initiation points for corrosion in salty areas. Some books show where to drill a hole in the inner fender skirt to get to a heater box fastener that is only otherwise accessible by removing the hood and right front fender well. But that's on some cars. Never replaced a heater core on a truck.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

They may not be in a position where one has to worry about water infiltration, but I would do something with the raw edges, because they are initiation points for corrosion in salty areas. Some books show where to drill a hole in the inner fender skirt to get to a heater box fastener that is only otherwise accessible by removing the hood and right front fender well. But that's on some cars. Never replaced a heater core on a truck.

I have. Several times. You gotta take out all the Fender Skirt bolts from the back, and from the wheel center aft -- loosen the others -- even the Battery Box bolt, and drop it down to get at them. Also cock the steering hard left. I think I've done it without pulling the pass/side Hood Hinge, but I don't remember exactly.
[PIA]

Speaking of unpleasant tasks, we can veer back onto the main topic of this thread, and I will opine that I'd rather tilt the Motor in its mounts, than pierce the Cab with spurious holes.