Clutch Chatter and Oil Leaks

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

^Niiice! One thing to note about torquing fasteners. The face of the bolt/nut should be dry for development of proper torque. Threads at the factory were solvent-wetted, and there was no lube between the bolt/nut and their faying surfaces. I know people who lube those faces, but the tension on the bolts is WAY more than spec when that is done.

Interesting, so when fastening what solvent should be used before torqueing? If the bolt is dry, what does that do compared to the solvent?

[SacramentoJoe]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I'm drawing a blank on the grade of those bolts. How many marks are on the head? You may be able to find one at your local hardware store.

Here is the stamping on the bolt. I (Google) can't find any info.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by SacramentoJoe

My book says 115. I was at around 100 ft-lb, but it felt like more than than that. I am going to calibrate my wrench.

I don't know what book you're reading that spec in, but my GM factory Service Manual says 70 ft lbs for the main cap bolts. During my years as a mechanic, I've built and rebuilt hundreds of SBC engines and none of them called for 115 ft lbs on the main bearing caps..

Those bolts aren't "ordinary" bolts found in a hardware store.. There is a step in the shank right under the head, and the threads aren't cut, they're rolled.. I've got an assortment of engine bolts in my stash.. Give me the overall length of that broken bolt, and if I have one, I'll give it to you..

[SacramentoJoe]

Well, the old service manual had the wrong torque number in the write-up. The specifications page says 80 ft-lb. At least know I know why the bolt snapped.
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[SacramentoJoe]

Close-up pictures of the bolt.

[RustyPile]

Well, it appears I don't have any that exact length.. i did a quick search on Summit's site and found this..

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-5001

[SacramentoJoe]

Although I couldn't find an exact match anywhere around town, I found a bolt that worked. I got the rear main seal in, replaced the oil pump while I was there, and got a new clutch kit installed.

Clutch isn't chattering anymore. The oil pan gasket is still leaking though.

[jumpsoffrock]

You've been through a lot in the last couple weeks so I don't want to say anything that makes you feel worse. lol

I recently rebuilt an engine in another truck and was happy to find the front and rear main seals don't leak, not even after 6k miles.
The pan was leaking the next day, not too bad, but somethin....The front/rear mains in my BBC that is in my truck right now doesn't leak; the pan does.


I wonder if any of these old engines pans ever sealed, and how long they stayed like that. lol

[SacramentoJoe]

So, I went back after my oil pan leak.

I couldn't get enough clearance to drop the oil pan completely off. Since I had the Fellpro one-piece gasket, I threaded that under the the oil pump to get it out, cleaned everything up, used some rtv on the ends, and put it back in.

I also noticed it was leaking from the front cover and the crankshaft seal. I pulled that off and replaced the timing chain, too. The water pump didn't have alot of miles on it but was pretty old, so I replaced that.

Took a test drive up to to Auburn cruise night. No leaks. Yay!

I'll try to post some pics of the trucks.

[SacramentoJoe]

A few pics

[SacramentoJoe]

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[Rich72C10]

Interesting thread to read, a real nail bitter - LOL! I would have pooped my pants if I broke a bolt in my engine - which is why I don't wrench inside my engine!!

Nice you have no leaks, I am jealous - though I should be happy with a drop or two on the garage floor.

[SacramentoJoe]

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