Could me engine timing be inaccurate

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

When you found the ‘mark’ and turned the distributor so the mark lined up, how far did you turn the distributor and which direction did you turn the distributor?

Clockwise about 15-20 degrees.

I previously did put it at 35 degrees advanced at approximately 2000 RPMs. I didn't have a tachometer though. What I found out Sunday though was that it is supposed to be adjusted to 32-34 degrees advanced at 3500 RPMs.

[geezer#99]

Your best bet is to set your initial timing at 12 degrees.
Leave it there!
Lock it down and leave it there!
If you keep setting your timing at high numbers like 35 at 2000 rpm you’ll cause damage to your pistons!

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Your best bet is to set your initial timing at 12 degrees.
Leave it there!
Lock it down and leave it there!
If you keep setting your timing at high numbers like 35 at 2000 rpm you’ll cause damage to your pistons!

My plan is not to set it at 35 at 2000 RPMs.

Blueprints directions do not say to set it at 12 and leave it there.

I'm just trying to get advice on following their specs. Not create new specs.

[geezer#99]

If you follow their specs you will end up with 12-14 degrees initial.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

If you follow their specs you will end up with 12-14 degrees initial.

Oh thanks. Does this mean that at idle it would show 12-14?

[geezer#99]

Yes!
That’s what initial timing means.
Timing at idle.
Idle needs to be below 750 rpm though.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Yes!
That’s what initial timing means.
Timing at idle.
Idle needs to be below 750 rpm though.

Oh thanks, it's going to be great having this thing run right.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

It seems You didn't. mention lining up the rotor to #1 terminal on the dist cap.

George

[K10-Kansas]

Running 13 degrees advanced at 700 RMP and 32 degrees advanced total possible not going any higher no matter how high the ROMs,,,,, that's all with the vacuum advanced plugged right?

[mattfranklin]

Usually the initial is with the vacuum disconnected.

BTW, I'm more a fan of experimenting with timing. The specs are just suggestions. As long as you can hear the knock (pinging, marbles in the coffee can, or whatever it sounds like to you), I'd advance the timing and see how it runs. If you have loud exhausts then stick to the specs. I had a Chevy S-10 pickup through the 1980s and 1990s didn't own a timing light. I just adjusted timing to get very light knock at wide open throttle. It ran much better when advanced from the factory/dealer tune-up settings.
(I did some laboratory work with a Chevy 350 in the late 1980s also: https://www.sae.org/publications/tec...ontent/890161/)

[Tom]

Am I the only one that reads this title in a pirate voice?

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by Tom

Am I the only one that reads this title in a pirate voice?

Lol, oh cr@p,,, I never even noticed I had a typo in there.

[BAD1916]

Originally Posted by Tom

Am I the only one that reads this title in a pirate voice?

I do now🤣 thanks for the chuckle

[burnin oil]

Set timing as said then double check advance at 3500-4000 rpm. This guarantees that the distributer springs let all that timing in. SbC usually like 29-36 degrees total timing not including vac advance. I set to 36 degrees at high rpm then test drive and back it down from there. Many aftermarket distributors will have base timing at idle around 16 or 17 degrees. Honestly you don't need a tach. Set over all timing at a high rpm then note what it is at idle for future reference
This is the only way to do it unless you are recurving the distributer. The curve is dependent on the distributer wieghts and springs and on some distributors, the bushings

[dagnabbitt]

Yar.