Project "My Happy Mess"

[hgs_notes]

Don't you just love it when you tell yourself, "all I have to do is this this and this and it's running" Then all these little details consume the tim trying to figure how to make each thing work as intended. Keep plugging away though and it'll be done soon enough.

[litew8]

the "improvements" need special attention.

[litew8]

Today's plan -

1) Hook up detent cable to transmission
2) Drill out stud hole on carb to accommodate old stud for linking detent cable
4) Replace fuel hose piece to fuel pump
4) Add fluids
5) Double check grounds and fuses
6) Check horn connections under dash. See if horns are fried.

Never had a horn button during my ownership.
Could be a PO removed the horn button because the horns got fried.

[litew8]

Realizing I need to learn how to count ^.
Hate how this forum doesn't allow editing after a few minutes.
Didn't have time to finish everything on the list, but should get it all tomorrow.

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by litew8

Realizing I need to learn how to count ^.
Hate how this forum doesn't allow editing after a few minutes.
Didn't have time to finish everything on the list, but should get it all tomorrow.

x2 on the I Hate the Timed Editing

[litew8]

Got the detent (kickdown) cable installed, drilled out stud hole on Holley carb and installed the old kickdown cable stud. Haven't adjusted it yet. Replaced that piece of fuel line. Went to check one inline fuse and the fuse busted inside. These are old holders and were difficult to open, so I went ahead and replaced both inline fuse holders with new style holders/blade fuses. Will check the horns tomorrow, maybe they need to be grounded (paint removed) as they bolt directly to the rad support. Got pics, will post later.

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Finished reading thru your build. nice truck! and nice work man. I'm in to see it the rest of the way. keep up the good work.

[hgs_notes]

I have some horns in the garage I think if you need them.

[VA72C10]

Looking good! Nice grain on that oak. Should look great!!!

[litew8]

Thanks! It's ash wood though (grains are very similar) with (golden?) oak stain and something added to darken it up a bit. I forget the name - and I think 5 coats of spar varnish. Unbelievably light wood! But is suppose to be a hard (tough) wood. I had to put it aside and cover it for the time being.

[VA72C10]

oops...that's the cabinet guy in me that never sees ash...it's always oak, hickory, cherry, maple, or alder.....and the occasional quarter sawn oak (I love the grain on that), teak, walnut, or bamboo...

[litew8]

If I ever need cabinets built in the back of my truck, I'll let you know va I had read or heard that even though oak is a popular choice, it tends to retain water.

[hgs_notes]

Ash is nice too. The grain there is good, should turn out real nice.

[litew8]

lighted shop sign

[Mike Bradbury]

Looking good so far, the small details are killing me to, I just want to get it fired up.
We have very similar builds going, I am especially interested in the clearance of the ram horns and the alternator bracket problems. I have very similar valve covers in the garage waiting to be installed I think I will relieve the ram horns now before I get the engine in, as well as start on the alt bracket issue.
Just a side note, I started with a 3/4 ton truck and converted to C10. My trailing arm cross member did not have those braces on them. Interesting.

[litew8]

Thanks Mike. That is interesting your 3/4 ton doesn't have the braces.
The other side (driveshaft bearing & mount) of yours looks to be a different design also.

My braces outlined in red -


The other side of yours -


Mine -


I always thought only difference between 70-71/72 is the grille.
Maybe the frame does have some differences too?
Or, maybe the braces are included on Custom Deluxe models.
Good find. Maybe someone else has the answer.

Are you sure your cab/frame numbers match?

[hgs_notes]

I don't think I've seen any other carrier bearings like Mike has, nor have I seen those extra braces, but haven't really paid attention and most of what I see and part out is C-10's. There are other differences between the 69-70 and the 71-72 though. A couple I know of are different gas pedal linkage set ups, and the heater box inside the cab changed in 70 I think (newer one is part plastic). Bumpers in the front of course too. To me it looked like litew8 had a typical c-10 set up that had some heavy duty stuff added. There is supposed to be a difference in frame steel thickness between C-10, C-20 and C-30 trucks. I'll see if I can find that and you guys can measure what you have to compare.

[litew8]

Considered replacing U-joints since they're 20+ years old. Originally, when driving it - there was play when put into reverse. Thought it could have been the U-joint or transmission. It was more profound after warmed up. The transmission has been rebuilt. What's the worse thing that could happen with U-joint wear? It breaks (due to age) or play when put into gear?

The blaster did a great job though. No sand in the cab. I think he knew enough to know not to sit and blast certain areas too much. Whatever small amount of sand may have been in there is out now, or will be soon when we take the rest apart (soon). Not sure what area you are saying would be "full of grit". The carrier bearing?

[Mike Bradbury]

Originally Posted by litew8

What's the worse thing that could happen with U-joint wear? It breaks (due to age) or play when put into gear?

The blaster did a great job though. No sand in the cab.

Sorry yes the carrier bearing, those cups are not really sealed to a blaster.
Well if that one fails then it is augering into the freeway at 60/70 mph and could possibly take out your differential, also if the shaft grabs something like a pot hole or larger crack in the road it could do more damage than that.
Kudos for not getting anything in the cab, thats the most important part. LOL.
Speaking of the cab, it that your original seat that you cleaned up?

[litew8]

I just mentioned he didn't get sand in the cab, shows that he was careful. There were openings large enough for him to blast directly into the cab. We don't plan on painting the inside of the cab.

The seat is original and was covered with a cheap seat cover ever since I bought it and I never took it off. I'll guess and say it's been covered for 15 years. The fabric needs professionally cleaned and the vinyl is old and starting to crack. The vinyl can be replaced (design and all) - the fabric I don't think I can find an exact match (color wise). Hopefully it'll clean up good.

Nice scenario you painted with the freeway. (not really funny)
Is there anyway to check it, maybe noticeable play would hint to needing replaced?

These trucks are so simple it's awesome.

[Mike Bradbury]

When mine was failing I would hear noticeable "clunk" when I started off. It got louder as time went by, and when I finally changed it out there were no needle bearings left in two of the cups, just slopping around metal to metal. it was the joint on the diff so if it went I would just loose drive and probably leave the shaft in the street for a nice Corvette or Mercedes to hit.
Any noise is not good, so if it is making any it needs to be replaced. With it in neutral and the wheels off the ground you can grab the shaft and twist it or spin the tires by hand, if there is any play in the joint then it is probably no good. Are you planning on lowering it?

Did you ever get the Corvette bracket for your alternator?

[litew8]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

Did you ever get the Corvette bracket for your alternator?

Nope. Though it's a serious possibility in the near term. I'd like to get some dimensions of it before purchasing though. One person I e-mailed couldn't provide measurements.

Very cool on the 0 miles.

[litew8]

Just finished filling her up with anti-freeze. Transmission fluid is holding, but we see a tiny bit trying to come through the top of the detent cable (where the cable meets the bracket and is crimped). As long as it isn't flowing out, it'll prob. stay sealed. Putting oil in now, then video. It's nice first fire weather here in Iowa today, near 50!

[litew8]

Thanks Mike. No lowering.
I had considered it (air) when I first started, but changed my mind.
It'll be a super stock (HD) build.

Looking over some old receipts (along with all registrations dating back to 71'), - I notice that my (crate 350) truck had DynoMax 17730 Super Turbo's installed in 1992 w/some aluminized pipes. That's the same time they put those nice exhaust pipe hangers on too. And when it was equipped with Cyclone headers.



Sometime after 1992, the headers were replaced with stock exhaust manifolds (that I have now) and glasspack mufflers. hmm Looking some more to see if U-joints were ever replaced. It's hard to make out a lot of the mechanic's handwriting.

[Mike Bradbury]

Sounds like it was a project truck for several guys over the years. Good to hear you have receipts. Mine was a 92 crate also, but I only had 14,000 on it when the cam shredded the rest of the engine
I like the sound of my glass pack much better than the flowmasters that were put on it, has a richer more mellow tone rather than a rattle.
Ive got one u-joint to go and my entire drive train will have zero miles on it.