48 Burb, bagged, 5.3, 20 year wait

[MIKESAD50]

Advance Design, I plan on using a GM Perf. Parts Drive kit. The are very reasonable as far as price and complete with everything needed in one kit. and there are a few different kits.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Drifters

The project looks great AD! It makes me want to start my 52 Sub...

Thanks Drifters, I keep pecking away. Go for the start on the 52!

Originally Posted by MIKESAD50

Advance Design, I plan on using a GM Perf. Parts Drive kit. The are very reasonable as far as price and complete with everything needed in one kit. and there are a few different kits.

Thanks Mike, I used that kit on my 56 Bel Air. The ac compressor won't clear unless I modify the frame and will likely need to go high with it. Just researching ideas.

One of those days in the shop today. A friend came over and whittled out the beginnings of the frame mount, I removed the existing frame mounts...then noticed it wasn't warming up in the shop. Always keep it at 50 degrees and you could see your breath.

So instead of placing the power train, I diagnosed the radiant tube heater. Turn thermostat up, scamper up 15 foot ladder, test for 120v at the igniter when it cycles on in 45 seconds, fumble with test leads as I am kinda hesitant messing with 120v, missed the cycle opportunity, repeat several times...open circuit in igniter, found it is cracked...

Not much Burb building and I did get a bit of a work out.

[oldman3]

Don't you just hate those kind of days...Jim

[GAc10boy]

AD, finally checking in on your build and, WOW, I've been missing out. Really nice fab work - especially the diff cutout cover. Looks nice with the wheel tubs.

I'm following along.

[Advanced Design]

Yes Jim, every once in a while the shop gives us problems too. Ordered the part from Reverberray and their website states they will ship in 3 to 5 business days...what? Jegs would have the part here tomorrow. And the secondary air compressor was going down too.

Thanks Ga10boy! Lotta yackity in here with some building along the way. And I may have found some TBSS manifolds on CL. Pic he texted me of his manifolds came from an S10 forum posted in 2008....wth

Hope the ignitor comes in for the heater before Saturday...too cold here to work on the Burb.

[T-P Auto]

AD;

It got cold here today n looks like it is going to be around for the rest of the week.
Cold with wind n some snow.
So i'm not out in the shop much either.
Was so cold n windy today that I didn't even try to go 90m(1 way) to the Dr appt on my New socket.

We need the snow n rain here.

T-P Auto
Tim

[reaper71]

That suck's Doug about the heat and comp. but before you know it you'll be knee deep in progress!!

Mark...

[rusty76]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Thanks Drifters, I keep pecking away. Go for the start on the 52!



Thanks Mike, I used that kit on my 56 Bel Air. The ac compressor won't clear unless I modify the frame and will likely need to go high with it. Just researching ideas.

One of those days in the shop today. A friend came over and whittled out the beginnings of the frame mount, I removed the existing frame mounts...then noticed it wasn't warming up in the shop. Always keep it at 50 degrees and you could see your breath.

So instead of placing the power train, I diagnosed the radiant tube heater. Turn thermostat up, scamper up 15 foot ladder, test for 120v at the igniter when it cycles on in 45 seconds, fumble with test leads as I am kinda hesitant messing with 120v, missed the cycle opportunity, repeat several times...open circuit in igniter, found it is cracked...

Not much Burb building and I did get a bit of a work out.

You can see where it is broken. If they don't glow they don't work. Be careful when putting the new one back in. They break on you if you're not careful. I would have thought you could of got one local from a local HVAC shop or supply house. Three days is ridiculous. Hope you don't have to worry about water freezing. It looks to be a common one used in most gas furnaces. Good luck and get warm.!

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by rusty76

You can see where it is broken. If they don't glow they don't work. Be careful when putting the new one back in. They break on you if you're not careful. I would have thought you could of got one local from a local HVAC shop or supply house. Three days is ridiculous. Hope you don't have to worry about water freezing. It looks to be a common one used in most gas furnaces. Good luck and get warm.!

Thanks Mark, I hope so! Some knee deep, or even ankle deep, progress would be welcome.

Rusty76, good eye and yeah, you would think I could get one locally. Maybe, we are in the sticks here 10 miles from a town of 1,400 people and options are limited. I did follow up with the Reverberray company and the ignitor shipped yesterday, hopefully to arrive tomorrow. Guess they must build in some cushion time for their shipping. Thanks again!

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by T-P Auto

AD;

It got cold here today n looks like it is going to be around for the rest of the week.
Cold with wind n some snow.
So i'm not out in the shop much either.
Was so cold n windy today that I didn't even try to go 90m(1 way) to the Dr appt on my New socket.

We need the snow n rain here.

T-P Auto
Tim

Tim...it was 15 below zero here last night and we are straight east of St. Louis, so it is not like we are way up north...snow still sticking around! Really don't like that stuff. Hopefully you can reschedule soon with the Doc!

[Advanced Design]

Fixed the heat and will soon have the air supply issue resolved.

[rusty76]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Thanks Mark, I hope so! Some knee deep, or even ankle deep, progress would be welcome.

Rusty76, good eye and yeah, you would think I could get one locally. Maybe, we are in the sticks here 10 miles from a town of 1,400 people and options are limited. I did follow up with the Reverberray company and the ignitor shipped yesterday, hopefully to arrive tomorrow. Guess they must build in some cushion time for their shipping. Thanks again!

Sorry it took so long. Sorta funny about those heaters but if you have a lift close by to them used to lift cars up, they'll melt the paint off them. Years ago we put some in a shop. We told the guy who owned the shop that he needed to be weary of clearances. He didn't take our word for it and got the lifts to close to the working area of the heaters. It wasn't our fault. Oh well.

[youngrodder]

Good deal. Nothing like a good heat source.
I have that same compressor in my workshop

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Rusty76, you must be in the hvac industry? I see a lot of those heaters in shops, usually the write up area. Plus a lot of used oil burners too. Been pretty happy with this one for last 10 or 12 years. Part came on Wednesday and was pretty happy to see the glow.

Marc, I think it will be a good compressor, 7.5 hp with an 80 gallon tank. Buddy has one in his shop and he does a lot of work. I was looking at Champion and he suggested this one. Talked to dealer yesterday morning and they dropped it off in the shop this morning. Same place I bought the lift. Convenient.

Now I need to plumb it in right...usually been getting water in my tools.

[rusty76]

Yes I do work in HVAC industry. I've been at it for about 15 years now. It's been good to me. I'm glad you got heat in the shop.

[youngrodder]

[QUOTE

Marc, I think it will be a good compressor, 7.5 hp with an 80 gallon tank. Buddy has one in his shop and he does a lot of work. I was looking at Champion and he suggested this one. Talked to dealer yesterday morning and they dropped it off in the shop this morning. Same place I bought the lift. Convenient.

Now I need to plumb it in right...usually been getting water in my tools.[/QUOTE]

OK, I lied. Mine is a 5.5 hp 60 gallon. Same brand though...
Marc

[Advanced Design]

Well Marc, it was hard to tell from the fuzzy picture exactly what it is!

Setting it up today and I am not sure how to wire into the magnetic starter. Oh yeah, no paperwork or manual came along with the delivery. 220v single phase.

Research shows it should be into L1 and L2 for connections for the input voltage. Wires at the top of the magnetic switch go to the pressure switch and the wires at the bottom go to the motor.

Anyone have a picture showing for certain where the input wires connect? And if I am not 100% certain I will call an electrician. Gotta be safe!

[Advanced Design]

Well, I received some good help over in the tools section and especially thanks to Franken.

A friend has the same compressor in his shop and sent me this picture showing the feed going to L1 and L2. After church tomorrow I may wire it up and take her for a spin.

[CHIZZLER]

Looks like your going to be nice and toasty in the shop and have plenty of air when needed.

[roushinator]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Spent a little time figuring out which end the transmission goes on .

Then removed the harness, manifolds, ac compressor and installed the lift bridge to get ready for installation. This engine lift bridge (not sure what else to call it) came from Mac's tie downs. Decided to try one as all the others I have tend to want to get into the firewall.

What bolt size did you use to attach the cradle to the heads?

[Advanced Design]

Chizzler, the heat has been really needed. It was -5 F this morning at sun up! Man, that new compressor really puts out the air. Very happy!

Roushinator, I used the exhaust manifold bolts from this engine. That lifting bridge with the angle adjuster is working really well. It is easy to adjust the angle of the powertrain and it is not getting into the firewall like the other ones I have used. Very pleased with this.

[Advanced Design]

Positioned the engine and transmission in the Burb. Not much room to go back any more unless I modify the firewall. The Mac Tie Down lifting bridge made it pretty easy to dial the engine in where I needed it. And one of these days I would like to do a project where you could just bolt the engine in.....would be too easy though.

Had some really good help in the shop from my oldest Grandson.

Decided to make heavier engine mount frame tabs from 1/4". Please don't laugh at my plasma cutter cart.

[Advanced Design]

I cut the tabs out then belt sanded them to shape to fit the frame. With the tab held in place on the frame and against the engine mount, I used a centering punch to mark the hole. Once drilled they all fit, held them in place with the mounting bolt and partially welded them in. The finish welding, a little boxing and maybe some gusseting will be completed once the engine is back out.

[Advanced Design]

So, on to the transmission mount. I used a tie down strapped under the pan to stabilize and support the transmission while lifting the Suburban up in the air.

Trimmed the width on the transmission cross member and made use of the Hem saw I purchased from Jerry Gulley at Gulley performance. Really happy with the performance and accuracy of this saw. Playing around, I was able to slice off a piece of round stock @ 0.020" thick.

To keep the centerline of the transmission in the correct plane, the end mounts on the cross member were about one inch above the bottom of the frame.

I stood there and stared at it for awhile and decided to make one inch block mounts to raise the cross member up one inch. This was to keep it about even height wise with the front cross member.

Sliced some 1" x 3" box tubing down to 1" x 2", welded in some nuts for mounting the cross member ends to, then closed the box tubing up with some 1 inch angle.

[Advanced Design]

The cross member end is four inches long and the eight inch long spacer will provide better support along a longer potion of the frame.

Bolted the spacer block in for easy removal and bolted the cross member to the block. Once I take it apart again I will close in the ends of the support block.

And finally....... back on the ground with powertrain in place and mounts made. Yay!

This is where I wanted to get to in 2014, so just 65 days behind. Plan to pause the Burb for a little while as I do some updates to the '56 Bel Air for HRPT 2015.