What did you do to your truck today? Chapter II

[VWNate1]

[quote=harpo231;8101377]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

Your shop guy is worthless, I'd not let him check the oil .

Maybe not.. If a licensed shop he has to follow CFR 49 [ code of federal regulations] that say gas [oxygen] welding is not to be done on fuel tanks or vessels.

You're right Stan .

RE : Rochester leaks-a-lot Carby .

I didn't notice if it's a Quadrajet, if so they're *very* good carbys but have some details , TOMCO used to make the jet well plugs and improved inlet fittings along with brass floats .

TOMCO is carried by NAPA among others .

Be gentle with it ! . more Quadrajets were ruined by ham fisting than anything else .

They're good because they're designed to be progressive in use so as long as you don't stomp on the foot feed and open the secondaries they're really economical .

Rockaotuo.com sells some Mid West rebuilder's carbys and I'm always impressed with the quality of both the cores used and their work .

Not so with most local rebuilders who simply bead blast an old junk core and slap a Chinese kit in them and never bother to do the myriad adjustments.....

If your current carby has a thin metal stamped tag on it, it's GOLD ~ never let go of it, they'll B.S. you at the Partshous, don't ever let go of any core until you personally are satisfied with the job .

[66clow]

After months of shimming my starter trying to get it to work I broke down and bought a starter for a 1997 GMC C 3500 5.7 truck. Removed about 10lbs. I forgot what it's like to get in my truck and start it right up. It works beautifully. Also replaced a leaking wheel cylinder, now I have to get my wife to help me bleed the system . She's going to love that.

[VWNate1]

Such a tiny little thing ! .

I hope you replaced both brake cylinders, it is false economy to replace only one side ~ brake parts are to be serviced and replaced in axle sets .

[Boog]

Originally Posted by 66clow

After months of shimming my starter trying to get it to work I broke down and bought a starter for a 1997 GMC C 3500 5.7 truck. Removed about 10lbs. I forgot what it's like to get in my truck and start it right up. It works beautifully. Also replaced a leaking wheel cylinder, now I have to get my wife to help me bleed the system . She's going to love that.

Well, swap places with her this time. Let her handle the bleeder wrench while you do the pedal pumping. She won't mind pumping next time near as much.

[66clow]

Originally Posted by Boog

Well, swap places with her this time. Let her handle the bleeder wrench while you do the pedal pumping. She won't mind pumping next time near as much.

I have a pretty good insurance policy she might not tighten the bleeder valve LOL .

[Boog]

Doh!! Good thinking.

[rustytruck50]

Well, it wasn't today.....Saturday actually, but Raymond got a much deserved new set of tires. As close as I could tell, the old Hankooks were put on at least 15, maybe 20 years ago....lots of tread, but drier and harder than a popcorn toot. I took him from 235/75/15 AT to Cooper Cobra 255/70/15s....really like the look & ride. Now if I could get the dash lights consistently working.....

[Indyspecracer]

Installed one of Boyd's tanks and installed some 5 lug rotors so that we could try on some new/used shoes! Scored the Vintecs on craigslist😎

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

Well, it wasn't today.....Saturday actually, but Raymond got a much deserved new set of tires. As close as I could tell, the old Hankooks were put on at least 15, maybe 20 years ago....lots of tread, but drier and harder than a popcorn toot. I took him from 235/75/15 AT to Cooper Cobra 255/70/15s....really like the look & ride. Now if I could get the dash lights consistently working.....

I had a set of 255/70 15 Cobras on 15 x 8 rallys on my other truck and they were great. Looks like you have 15 x 8's on your truck too. That tire rim combo just fills in the wheel well real nice.

[3757chevy]

Added a couple of lights.

[testerdahl]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

Added a couple of lights.

Just a couple? LOL.

[rustytruck50]

Originally Posted by Already Gone

I had a set of 255/70 15 Cobras on 15 x 8 rallys on my other truck and they were great. Looks like you have 15 x 8's on your truck too. That tire rim combo just fills in the wheel well real nice.

It really does...I looked at several trucks with 275/60 15's and several with 255/70s & kept coming back to the 255s. I've had a couple of sets of these on other trucks and really liked 'em.

[beaterku]

I built a smoke machine for finding vacuum leaks last night. Works pretty good. Makes a LOT of smoke.

[VWNate1]

Originally Posted by beaterku

I built a smoke machine for finding vacuum leaks last night. Works pretty good. Makes a LOT of smoke.

It needs a LUCAS sticker.......

[beaterku]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

It needs a LUCAS sticker.......

The Prince of Darkness

[paul blair]

Originally Posted by beaterku

I built a smoke machine for finding vacuum leaks last night. Works pretty good. Makes a LOT of smoke.

Lets see it smokin

[beaterku]

Originally Posted by paul blair

Lets see it smokin

I'm editing the DIY build video right now!

Edit: Here is a video of how I built it and in action: https://youtu.be/eFI2ovUYFFU

[Stewsclues]

Added a wreath... probably should have done something more constructive. First post, by the way. Truck is my daily driver (and only 4 wheeled vehicle).

[Boog]

Welcome aboard Stew. Good looking stepper.

[In The Ten Ring]

Received a part from Summit, a piece for the fuel line.

[3757chevy]

Welcome aboard Stewsclues nice truck. Tell us more about it.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Learned how to remove front coil springs today. Like everything else on these trucks, it was easier than expected. This is how I did it.

I read where one of the members secures the spring by running a chain through the spring and bottom control arm. If you ask me, that's exactly how you do it. Doesn't take much effort, and might save your life.

Course that chain placement may not bode well for a floor jack placed underneath the spring, but I read in a number of places to jack up the outer end of the control arm, so I removed the zerk fitting and did just that. I only raised it an inch or so, because the only things on the frame are the front suspension, and the engine and transmission. It worked well.

Backed the nuts off maybe 3/8" and went at the ball joints with a pickle fork. I had to back off the floor jack some, I believe to release the lower joints. Then I lowered the control arm, and that spring is pretty well loose.

I say pretty well loose, because like dummy I was talking to someone, and forgot to re-secure the lower control arm with the floor jack. Then I took off what I believe was the top nut. Yeah, the lower control arm met with the concrete. Really, there was little to no tension on the spring at that point. No harm no foul, there was less force than I'd expect, but don't do that................

I cut the tops of the rivets with a Dremel. It's clean, but I went through 4 wheels. Took a chisel to the cuts and it made for a nice surface to drill. I used oil of course, and kept the bits cool, and didn't waste a single bit. That said, I only drilled a 1/4" diameter. I punched the first one out, but left the rest. I may see if it's better to remove them with the control arm off. Anyone know how large the rivet holes are? I'd guess 3/8". How about replacement bolt size?............... Something tells me I shouldn't have drilled all the way through those rivets, and just punch them out.............. EDIT: Yep. I should have invested in a good air chisel. I'll save it for another day, do it the hard way........Ha!.



Don't know how to install cleanly yet, but I may get one of these to avoid scratches. http://www.eastwood.com/fairmount-to...ompressor.html

Other ideas for install appreciated. Other than that, I agree with everyone who says so, don't use coil compressors to remove front coil springs. Now to figure out how to remove ball joints.

[Metaldoc]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Learned how to remove front coil springs today. Like everything else on these trucks, it was easier than expected. This is how I did it.

I read where one of the members secures the spring by running a chain through the spring and bottom control arm. If you ask me, that's exactly how you do it. Doesn't take much effort, and might save your life.

Course that chain placement may not bode well for a floor jack placed underneath the spring, but I read in a number of places to jack up the outer end of the control arm, so I removed the zerk fitting and did just that. I only raised it an inch or so, because the only things on the frame are the front suspension, and the engine and transmission. It worked well.

Backed the nuts off maybe 3/8" and went at the ball joints with a pickle fork. I had to back off the floor jack some, I believe to release the lower joints. Then I lowered the control arm, and that spring is pretty well loose.

I say pretty well loose, because like dummy I was talking to someone, and forgot to re-secure the lower control arm with the floor jack. Then I took off what I believe was the top nut. Yeah, the lower control arm met with the concrete. Really, there was little to no tension on the spring at that point. No harm no foul, there was less force than I'd expect, but don't do that................

I cut the tops of the rivets with a Dremel. It's clean, but I went through 4 wheels. Took a chisel to the cuts and it made for a nice surface to drill. I used oil of course, and kept the bits cool, and didn't waste a single bit. That said, I only drilled a 1/4" diameter. I punched the first one out, but left the rest. I may see if it's better to remove them with the control arm off. Anyone know how large the rivet holes are? I'd guess 3/8". How about replacement bolt size?............... Something tells me I shouldn't have drilled all the way through those rivets, and just punch them out.............. EDIT: Yep. I should have invested in a good air chisel. I'll save it for another day, do it the hard way........Ha!.



Don't know how to install cleanly yet, but I may get one of these to avoid scratches. http://www.eastwood.com/fairmount-to...ompressor.html

Other ideas for install appreciated. Other than that, I agree with everyone who says so, don't use coil compressors to remove front coil springs. Now to figure out how to remove ball joints.

Nice work so far, keep it up, It's funny I looked at your last pics with the engine was still in and I was going to say make sure you pull the front springs before the engine. You'll need the weight to compress the springs. It's an easy job once done, once.
Good on ya, Derek

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

Nice work so far, keep it up, It's funny I looked at your last pics with the engine was still in and I was going to say make sure you pull the front springs before the engine. You'll need the weight to compress the springs. It's an easy job once done, once.
Good on ya, Derek

Thanks......Live and learn. I didn't think to double check how to remove ball joints. I'd heard drill bits did the trick, which they do, but "next time" I grind or cut the tops off with and air chisel, and use the air chisel to punch them out.

[ghalperin]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Thanks......Live and learn. I didn't think to double check how to remove ball joints. I'd heard drill bits did the trick, which they do, but "next time" I grind or cut the tops off with and air chisel, and use the air chisel to punch them out.

When I did my frame, I removed over 60 rivets. I have a Snap-On air hammer and used a new Snap-On chisel bit. It cuts the rivet heads off like butter. After cutting off the heads, I’d swap out the chisel bit for a punch bit and knock out the rivet. Easy peasy. Wear headphones and apologize to the neighbors afterwards.