What did you do to your truck today? Chapter II

[Metaldoc]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Haven't gotten that for yet! It should as it's the long pump and the cover is dented inward.

-klb

Sorry man I thought it was pushed out towards the water pump. Your good.

[Redneck Rydes]

When we use to use cam buttons,they had needle bearings in them and we welded a piece of steel on the inside of the timing cover so it would not where a hole in it.

[VWNate1]

? Did you really install it sans lube on the lobes and bearing surfaces ? .

[weq92f]

I used permatex ultra slick engine assembly lube on it. You can see it if you look real close at the image. I'll hit the lobes again before final assembly and startup.

-klb

[VWNate1]

Cool .

You had me worried for a moment there .

[KeepRMovin]

Well it didn't happen today, but last week! Brought home my first C10! Couldn't be more exited, and have been diving into this forum for a while now, finally have something to post about!

1969 C10

Freshly rebuilt 383, still learning about the motor and the truck itself. Pretty new to this world! Body is in great shape, zero rust. Fresh undercoat/seal and paint.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by KeepRMovin

...1969 C10...

...um where?

Just kidding, looks real nice!

Welcome to the forum!

[KeepRMovin]

Originally Posted by BRL

...um where?

Just kidding, looks real nice!

Welcome to the forum!

Haha, Thanks! I was trying to wait until I got some good non parking lot pictures, but I couldn't hold out any longer

[BRL]

Oh, to me it looks like a 67/68 hood, a GMC grill, and a more modern stepside bed (which I like).

Yep, more pictures is good!

Very cool!

[KeepRMovin]

Originally Posted by BRL

Oh, to me it looks like a 67/68 hood, a GMC grill, and a more modern stepside bed (which I like).

Yep, more pictures is good!

Very cool!

Good eye!

It is a modified 1969 GMC C10 I guess, the bed is an 80's stepside, not sure on the year of the hood. I'll definitely get some more pictures up, love all the knowledge on here!

[palallin]

We put my truck's front end up on jackstands today and pulled the front drums and brake hardware. Tomorrow, I'll install new wheel cylinders and rubber lines as well as all new hardware and shoes. I also have a Master Cylinder on order; if it gets here, it will go on, too.

I've had problems with the passenger side sticking, so I am replacing everything but the hard lines.

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by BruceKoukalaka

Here are the pics of my truck, I'm not sure if it is a '69 or a '70. Maybe someone can determine it by the VIN.

Welcome to the boards from Saskatoon. Your truck is a 1969 and I've attached a serial number decoder for you.

[Andy4639]

I finally broke down and cleaned the 67 Ramp truck. I washed it off cleaned the inside up good. Vacuumed it out and wiped all the windows with cleaner then rain x!
Looks much better oh and fixed the cig lighter and installed my 2018 HRPT front tag.

[BruceKoukalaka]

Originally Posted by Already Gone

Welcome to the boards from Saskatoon. Your truck is a 1969 and I've attached a serial number decoder for you.

Thanks for the decoding, I wasn't sure what I had until I saw this, Now I know mine's a 1969 Chevy C10 that originally had a V8, (I thought it had a 6 mated to the 4 speed.

[palallin]

OK, well today went reasonably well. I managed to replace both wheel cylinders and front hoses. Those old hoses were in bad shape, and I doubt much fluid was moving in them.

Replacing the wheel cylinders requires removing the hubs, so the outer bearings got a cleanup and regreasing, and the engagement gears were all inspected and reset.

Replacing the hoses ended up requiring the removal of the hard lines and the junction block inside the frame on the driver's side--what a pain in the rump.

Take my advice: if you ever have your front clip off or the engine out--or, better yet, both--replace those hoses! It would be a LOT easier to do unimpeded by such inconvenient parts as the power steering pump, the fuel pump (I had to disconnect the fuel line), and so forth!

Your hoses probably need replaced anyway. Mine sure did.

TOMORROW: actually fitting the brake shoes and attendant hardware and, I hope, the new master cylinder.

[Drummerboy]

I picked up some 15x6 steel wheels so I can run steelies on with my new disc brakes.

[weq92f]

Decided to pull the pan to replace the gasket....

Bad idea... not enough room...

Now I own a 2 ton engine hoist!


-klb

[Boog]

Oh but there are other uses for that hoist. I use mine several times a year at home. I don't pull and lift some of the things I used to.

[KQQL IT]

Finally got my M/T challengers on.

New lugnuts are on their way the old ones really look bad, and my short center cap was to short in the back.

[VWNate1]

Those engine hoists are neat .

Just remember to collapse the cylinder completely every time you're finished using it else the ram will rust and begin to leak, ruining it .

[ohboy321]

I pulled my bench seat out today to fix a squeak behind it, and to take some pictures to see what I will need to fix it up over the winter. Found the tag that IDs it as a basic 69 (cab is a 67), and that it needs several springs replaced right under the drivers arse. Got the tracks sliding nice....fixed the squeak, put the seat back in and took it for a nice ride. Plus, today was Vintage Truck magazines "Drive Your Old Truck Day 2018", and I wanted to get out a few times....like I need an excuse

[palallin]

Day 3: Church, shopping, and rain all conspired to shorten the working time, so all we got accomplished today was the mounting of the brake shoes and hardware. I slipped the drums on just to make sure nothing gets jostled or rained on tonight.

Oh, yeah, and I reattached the fuel line to the pump.

Tomorrow (rain dependent): Master cylinder and bleeding. Oh, how I hope the penetrant I put on those rear bleeders works!

[VWNate1]

This is a common problem, the solution is fairly simple :

Right after you spray the next shot of penetrating oil on the threads, *SMACK* the bleeder screw dead on with a hammer, the shock will wick the penetrant in and loosen the threads .

If you smack it off center or sideways, you'll snap it off so pay close attention here .

I'm sure you already know to only use a SIX POINTED tool on any bleeder valve ! .

[Killer Bee]

^^^ yep, they come in real handy.. had this fully welded hoosier about 25 years..

stripped and repainted several years ago with clark forklift hot yellow green so I can't lose it..

welded a handle bar on the mast with bycycle hand grips to make it easier to steer..

got a 12vdc 1gal barnes hydraulic power unit for it, just haven't hooked it up yet..

that D60 is about 500lbs, good portable hoist made short work unloading it recently..

[NoStopN]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

Right after you spray the next shot of penetrating oil on the threads, *SMACK* the bleeder screw dead on with a hammer, the shock will wick the penetrant in and loosen the threads.

Words you never want to say around me. I could snap it off even using a plastic Playskool hammer.