Poor mans drop

[bird7263]

Originally Posted by Shane

Opinion has nothing to do with it. It's now useless to further this discussion because it is very apparent that you do not understand scrub-line & interference issues a block of this size has on a trailing arm set up.

I only hope & pray you do not have a flat on the rear of that truck with the 3" blocks when me, my family or someone I know is on the same road as you. I also hope you are not injured when, not if, this occurs.

Good luck.

I am not trying to argue.. I am only saying that I personally have never seen a problem.. I do understand what would happen if you get a flat. And I do understand scrub-line & interference issues. You are correct on that. I am only offering suggestions that have worked for others and my self. However I have seen a few airbagged and vehicles’ on air fail sparks flying while dragging frame down the freeway.

I apologize to Allen if it seems like I started an argument. This is your thread not mine.

That is one thing I love about this site everyone is very passionate about there trucks and there opinions.. That is what makes our country great. Thanks to you guys that work here and take time out of your days to make this forum happen.

[allen123]

Originally Posted by bird7263

I apologize to Allen if it seems like I started an argument. This is your thread not mine.

That is one thing I love about this site everyone is very passionate about there trucks and there opinions.. That is what makes our country great. Thanks to you guys that work here and take time out of your days to make this forum happen.

No your fine you have helped out alot

[dmartin1]

cutting the fronts is good,but soemtimes the tires tend to wanna lean in if you go too far(like slammin on the ground)

we've heated many springs,many times.

our 1978 chevy c10 is riding on heated springs for about 4-5 years now,and we've even hauled a load in it.it didnt make a huge effect on the ride,you just feel a tad more here n there,but not bad.

and it sure is cheap

[Shane]

yeah it's cheap, but why take the chance of a broken spring when you can pop the lower ball joint, cut the spring and reinstall and KNOW the spring hasn't lost it's temper?

for that matter, cutting it is just as cheap

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by allen123

Do you have any pics with the chevelle springs with blocks and cut springs so i can get a idea of how low it will look

Here's my 63 with 70's Chevelle springs (no blocks) in the rear and 1.75 coils cut off the fronts. I had to remove the bump-stop mount on the lower control arms.
All very easy and very cheap. It's not a 67-72, but it should give you an idea what it looks like.

[nvr_di]

What other springs will fit the rear of our trucks? Im lookin for around 5'' in the back. I'll probably end up buying drop springs but I just like knowing my options.

[Shane]

4 inch springs and a 1 inch block will get ya there.

[67slammer]

i have 3 set of belltech spring for a chevy celeberty that look like the rear springs in our trucks, they are wound real tight top and bottom. i will try to get some pics today. mike

[nvr_di]

anyone happen to have a list of what will fit? You never know what one will come across in the yards.

[jrods70]

Welcome to the board! You may not have realized it, but you have to be a subscribing member to post for sale messages. Check out the provided link for details on subscriptions.

[coast2coast]

Originally Posted by nvr_di

anyone happen to have a list of what will fit? You never know what one will come across in the yards.

Agreed, a list would be nice. It sounds like a jeep TJ, a chevelle, or a g-body (regal, malibu, monte carlo) rear spring should work. And give you about 2" drop.
Anyone know of an original equipment spring that would provide more drop?

[bowtiedriver2]

<----- In need of the poor mans drop. I would really like to find out what is the least expensive way. Can't justify drop spindles and converting to discs right now.

anyone know where to get U-bolts made around northern IL? I am thinking of cutting one coil in the front and going to CJ springs with 2" blocks in the rear.

[jgh64pkup]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

nothing wrong with cutting the fronts. Don't take out too much, but it's oK. Ride will suffer, but it isn't as bad as some will have you believe.
heating the rear is OK, but not prefered.
Some will tell you how they will shatter or ride like crap, or what ever.

They were doing this to coils untill the 80's when they started making drop coils.
it isn't prefered, but it isn't gonna be as bad as most want you to think.

how many coils can you take out

[chopper103in]

Originally Posted by bowtiedriver2

<----- In need of the poor mans drop. I would really like to find out what is the least expensive way. Can't justify drop spindles and converting to discs right now.

anyone know where to get U-bolts made around northern IL? I am thinking of cutting one coil in the front and going to CJ springs with 2" blocks in the rear.

dont know exactly where your at but elgin spring in elgin might be able to help you out
they are on larkin ave north of us20 about 6 blocks i think

[Hard Luck]

Here is a pic of the heated coils I pulled out of my truck from the last guy. Every spring was collapsed and it ended up riding on 3 of the four bump stops and ripping out the front shocks.

I have cut the coils many times. Worst part, if you cut too much you don't have a suspansion anymore, you have a brick.

Second part to consider is that used springs have diffrent sag. Just because your truck sits level now, does not mean it will after the cut even if you remove the same amount from each spring. Put the springs back from the side you pulled them out of and a good thing about our trucks is that you don't have to remove a whole coil at a time. Which means, if one side is higher you can just pull it again and trim a little to level the truck out.

Lastly, stick to the two coil rule. If you need more than that, you want to get it elsewhere. If you are like most and want a lot of drop, start with 1 to 1-1/2 coils. Do not build up too much heat during the cut or the tension will change which means the ride will change. Hacksaw, cutoff tool, or plasma. Stay away from the torch.

Good luck and enjoy!

[jgh64pkup]

i cut 2 off and it was too much i had to put chains on the control arms to keep the springs from falling out when i jacked it up

[VanceH]

Ok i know there is alot of controversy on doing this the old school or cheap way, but this is what some of us get to do. So with that said, if i cut my front springs (in small increments) and do the same for the rear springs, do i still need the rear blocks?? I am trying to lower the front about 1.5 and rear about 4.5. it is really raked at this time and i dont like the look.

[Skirkpat]

I would say no to both, but just a many would say yes to the front....The backs are not able to be cut, 2" lowering blocks are as big as you can go "Safely" ..... Neither should be heated.

[VanceH]

ok thanks and i do understand your position, if you use blocks then you dont have to cut the rear springs or replace them with shorter springs?? i guess i dont understand.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by VanceH

ok thanks and i do understand your position, if you use blocks then you dont have to cut the rear springs or replace them with shorter springs?? i guess i dont understand.

you can't cut rear springs, they're pigtailed on both ends. Get used Chevelle or Jeep springs, or new lowering springs from a vendor.

[VanceH]

Perfect!! i did not know they were pig tailed on both ends, ok so lets say i buy some drop springs for the rear, do i still need blocks??

[Skirkpat]

"Perfect!! i did not know they were pig tailed on both ends, ok so lets say i buy some drop springs for the rear, do i still need blocks??"

If you need up to 2 more inches of drop? figure out where you want it and it will be easier to know how to get there?

[VanceH]

I am wanting to drop my front 2 inchs and my rear somewhere between 4-5. I am looking for rear springs and have found a "Stepped A arm"? looks promising.

[terribleone]

I took my springs to a suspension shop and they de-arched them for $25.
Got 2.5" lower. Easy cheap and safe.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by terribleone

I took my springs to a suspension shop and they de-arched them for $25.
Got 2.5" lower. Easy cheap and safe.

You are talking leafs now. Most of this thread refers to coils. Good info though.

Originally Posted by Shane

3" blocks are too tall for a trailing arm-type setup.

Shane is right; for 15" wheels. When you go bigger you can run a taller block accordingly. Rule of thumb is +0.5" in block for every +1" in wheel diameter. With that said, I run a 3" block with 22" wheels. I wouldn't want to run much taller blocks than that regardless of scrub line tolerance.