My 60 Chevy Shop truck build

[frmula505]

Your taking about the roll on herculiner. Dont use it, it chips and peels with time. There is a liner called al's liners that I've heard nothing but good about. One of the site vendors sells it. As for under the fenders and hidden places (Places that arent abused) I just use the canned rubberized undercoating.

[frmula505]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

Maybe you might want to try this. It is still coming along nice though.

After looking at the thread where this mod is done. I don't think it will match with the smoothie tailgate cover I installed. I decided I didn't like the way mine had come out either. So I changed my design a bit. What do you guys think?


Since I have most of the body work done, it was time to start on the interior. I still had it striped from the floor board welding. I had to do a little welding. on the dash. they had installed a huge tach (#2), there was some type of cup holder (#3), and the last 4 holes who knows what was there (#1)


On the area behind the drivers side door there was the bottom of a coffee can screwed on. Probably had a speaker at one time.


After taking it off I found a PP, actually part of a Colorado license plate with the letters "PP". Covering what looks to be a hole for a CB antennae.


Got started welding, and of course ran out of wire, another project stopper.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by frmula505

...As for under the fenders and hidden places (Places that arent abused) I just use the canned rubberized undercoating.

Brand? Where to buy? Is this brushed or rolled on, or do you need some special gun to spray it on? Thanks for the advice.

Question about the license plate "repair" you fund. Looked like quite a bit of rust around that hidden area. Did you do any prep to it before covering it?

[frmula505]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Brand? Where to buy? Is this brushed or rolled on, or do you need some special gun to spray it on? Thanks for the advice.

Question about the license plate "repair" you fund. Looked like quite a bit of rust around that hidden area. Did you do any prep to it before covering it?

It's 3M rubberized undercoating (comes in a spray can,), you can get it at most autoparts store. As for the rust, It was only light surface rust. Actually rust on the plate was was the worst. I wiped it down with metal conditioner and spayed a coat of undercoating. I would have posted a pic, but figured three pics for one hole is enough.

[frmula505]

I got my lowering kit. A few problems first of all they sent me the wrong panhard rod. I specifically told them it was a 1960 and needed a 33"-34" rod. They sent me a 27".


Next not sure if this is a problem. Seems so to me. But are these shocks to small. They are fully extended, and the truck frame weight is on the springs. will the weight of the bed bring it down this much?



The springs fit fine.

[joe231]

as far as the shock length, have you tried standing on the frame to see how much it droops?

[frmula505]

It drops about an inch. Shock is still a little short. I'm sure a complete bed, bumper, wood weigh more than me (200lb). I'll have a couple of friends sit in the frame this afternoon.

[rookierodbuilder]

just my $0.02, looks to me as if they sen you a kit for about a 63 model year pickup. The track bar looks to be the same lenght as the 63' frame that i'm working with and the shocks look to be in completely different locations (about 1-1.5" above the 63-72 shock locations).

[cliffy]

Hi frmula505, LMC has 2 styles of floor pans, OEM and the Universal ones. Are the universal ones you used good enough thickness wise?

[frmula505]

they're just as thick as all the other patch panels I used. not sure the gauge.

[cliffy]

Thanks,

[1964C10]

I dont know where those shocks are for/from but IMHO I think they are completely wrong, having done a number of shocks on different vehicles I have never had any that need to be extended competely till the end or have weight on the bed to install them. I just did them on my 64 with nothing but framerails in the back and I still had to push them on to get them into the holders. If they so much as get to the end in any kind of driving they will be destroyed. I would most definitely get longer ones. Just my 2c

[frmula505]

It's a hassle to send back and wait again. Since the suspension is already modified I'm just gonna modify the shock mount plates to match the shocks. Will post pics when I return from work related travel.

[frmula505]

Got the shocks mounted. Just had to improvise.

[62 Bowtie]

cool I just got the same shocks (Doetchtech) and they were also too short I ordered the 5" drop style cuz I have the 5" drop coils I sent them back for the 3" also are those mounted correctly they look upside down I mounted my fronts opposite of how your installing them

[frmula505]

you mounted yours with the solid part to the bottom? I might be wrong enlighten me. It's not that hard to turn them around.

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by frmula505

you mounted yours with the solid part to the bottom? I might be wrong enlighten me. It's not that hard to turn them around.

Ive seen this before, and dont quite understand all the reasoning, but 'unsprung weight' is one reason Ive heard; also keeps junk off the shaft for longevity. Dont want to get your thread off into debate territory

[joe231]

look at stock shocks, the fluid reservoir is at the bottom. the only difference is the shaft has a bell/cover so you can't see the shaft

here is a pic I stole from Hart Rod

Originally Posted by frmula505

After looking at the thread where this mod is done. I don't think it will match with the smoothie tailgate cover I installed. I decided I didn't like the way mine had come out either. So I changed my design a bit. What do you guys think?

Personally I think it would look better straight across, instead of angled up....

[62 Bowtie]

That was my reasoning when I installed mine

[frmula505]

Thanks I'll flip them over.

[Eagar1]

If I recall the gasadjust didn't matter which way they were mounted, but the old school shocks would overheat if mounted upside down, and also the valving rates were different as you want your shocks to drop faster than they retract, and having them upside down messed that up somehow. I am sure someone else knows the true story.

[markeb01]

Back in the days before gas shocks, I was taught it was standard practice to "bleed" the shocks before installing. The way this was done was to turn the shock upside down with the reservoir on top, fully compress the shock, turn it right side up, fully compress, then repeat this 2-3 more times.

Per the old timers this made sure all the air was out of the fluid. I believe it was true, because on the first pass the shock would collapse easily. After a few cycles the shock was much stiffer, and if left alone right side up they remained stiffer.

If installed with the reservoir at the top, there wouldn't be any compression resistance as the fluid valve would be open, and the shock absorbing would become ineffective.

[Eagar1]

Originally Posted by markeb01

Back in the days before gas shocks, I was taught it was standard practice to "bleed" the shocks before installing. The way this was done was to turn the shock upside down with the reservoir on top, fully compress the shock, turn it right side up, fully compress, then repeat this 2-3 more times.

Per the old timers this made sure all the air was out of the fluid. I believe it was true, because on the first pass the shock would collapse easily. After a few cycles the shock was much stiffer, and if left alone right side up they remained stiffer.

If installed with the reservoir at the top, there wouldn't be any compression resistance as the fluid valve would be open, and the shock absorbing would become ineffective.

Oh man my rusty rolodex of a brain just remembered doing this with my Dad, I was like 12, I think it was like a 65 buick wagon, man now that brings back memories, thanks for the Reminder Markeb01

[frmula505]

I was out of town working. Finally got some time for the truck. The cab is done. It has a thick coat of sanding sealer. One more guide coat and the final sealer.

[markeb01]

Blocking out one of these bodies sure makes a person appreciate how many nooks and curves there are in the sheetmetal. The bodywork is looking nice.