The rebirth of El Scrocho

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Wow very awesome that color rocks for sure..

[gkesseru]

Just received the steering wheel. Had to mount it right away. You can also see the A/C vents and center vent I installed. Had to cut new holes since this was not an A/C cab.

[gkesseru]

Assembled both doors today. Am too tired to take pictures. I certainly don't want to do this again for a long while. Yuk!
I floated a question to the forum on what order to put the door together, but only received a good meaning but wrong answer.
Finally found a great tutorial:
http://www.sporttruck.com/techarticl...oor_parts.html

[red69ss]

truck looks great ! that was a great write up in sport truck on the door assembly.

[VA72C10]

nice progress and a cool project!

[gcburdic]

Hey Gabe....is the dash area in primer or white???

[gkesseru]

The entire inside is in a DuPont light-to-medium gray interior vinyl based paint. It's actually a bit darker than the photo shows.

[gkesseru]

I lined the door panels in gray to match the bucket seats. With the vinyl upholstery on the panel they wouldn't fit under the chrome strip, so I had to grind off some of the top lip on the panel. Also put insulation on the cab back wall. The door bottoms will also get a gray carpet panel inside of the curved embossed lines.

[VA72C10]

very nice and clean!

[gcburdic]

Okay....Now I see what's going on

I like the panels....nice job!

[gkesseru]

Made slow progress lately due to other projects. Rebuilt my coupling shaft. Here's a thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=420406

[gkesseru]

I bought one of those $199 power brake setups from Ebay. Hope it works as well as it looks. Here is dry fit check. I also had to push steering column down a couple of inches because the GT style Grant steering wheel had a 3" spacer for the 5 hole adapter and moved the steering wheel too close.

[gcburdic]

Gabe....you running a cowl hood??....make sure that booster doesn't hit the cross member....Mine did for some reason...so I had to go with the 8" dual diaphragm one.....Although when I was having my troubles no one here seem to have the same issue?!!??!....Just an FYI

[gkesseru]

Rats. No I am not running a cowl induction. When I ordered, I specifically asked the forum about the dual 8" versus the 9" and got no recommendations for the dual 8. Now I will need to contact the seller and trade it in. I still don't have the front clip on so I can't check for fit.
Thanks for the warning.

[gcburdic]

I think the x-member on the cowl hood is different than the original hood....that was my only take to why it hit it, but I've seen others on here w/ cowl hoods and the 11" booster have no problems??? You know the old saying "It might be the Indian...not the Arrow"....just check it out when you can and make sure w/ the seller that you can return if there's an issue?!?!?

[gkesseru]

On mine, the booster centerline is 14 inches left from the vehicle cernterline and 9 inches forward from the back of the hood. The stock hood has a brace about 2 inches to the center from the booster.
Goeff, was your 9" booster fit problem on a cowl induction hood?

[gcburdic]

Gabe...sorry if I confused you....I initially had an 11" booster setup I got with my "grand slam" suspension setup from CPP several years ago....When I installed the booster, then tried to close the new cowl hood, it kept hitting the brace that goes front to back on the hood.....so I bought an 8" dual diaphragm setup one from a member on here and sold the 11" setup.....look at this picture of my engine....see the brace right over the booster....that was my problem....does that make sense?? or is it still clear as mud

Is yours a 11" or 9"?....can't really tell by the pictures....sorry...If 9" I bet it'll be fine

[gkesseru]

Mine is a 9" (the booster, I'm not bragging).
The pieces of green tape on the enclosed shot shows the centerline of the booster on my stock hood. Cowl induction hood must have moved the brace outboard.

[gcburdic]

Yours look a little more angled than mine (I'm not bragging either)

[gkesseru]

I tried to move the engine up to the front two holes in the frame but the engine perches ended up about an inch too wide. So out it comes again.

I decided the only way to get this right is to make a "block simulator". To do this I first made an engine stand (the negative) and then made a brace that fits across it (the positive). I will use this brace to bolt to new engine mounts and the engine perches. This way I will be sure the engine will slip right in later.

[gkesseru]

A lot of progress over the last week:
Mounted engine in forward position
Extended stainless exhaust (my stainless welds were ugly, but thank goodness for my 4" grinder)
Had driveshaft extended (expensive)
Learned how to use Imperial double flange brake tool
Replaced last of old brakelines
Bench bled MC
Bled all brakes, now brakes work
Fixed E brake
Ran fuel lines
Ran xmission cooling lines
Mounted gas pedal
Mounted shifter and ran cable to 2004R, TV cable
Mounted Radiator support and radiator
Cut and mounted carpet onto gas tank
Glued in door weatherstrip (this process sucks)

[VA72C10]

Looking good. Nice progress!

[gkesseru]

I've been working on the wiring and have created a thread in the Electric section so some of the process can help others.
see http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=425114

[gkesseru]

Three steps forward and two steps back....

I got all of the wiring in and got most of it working, but had no wiper motor action.
Possible causes:
1. Bad wiring job
2. Mistake on color wiring diagram (Found 3 errors in this area alone)
3. Bad fuse - yes it was blown
4. Bad fuse block - corroded, makes poor contact
5. Bad switch - middle pin never makes ground
6. Bad contact inside Wiper assembly - contact corroded and actuator spring sticky
Well so far I have found errors in all except # 1 above. ARRRGGGGHHHH

[gkesseru]

Here is completed dash. There's a whole thread in the Electrical sub-forum that covers the wiring process.