My 66 Service Truck Build Thread

[LostMy65]

Well.....

It was fun to have it together and give it a test drive.

The 350 sure sounds nice:


Unfortunately though, I need to park it again - need to fix this:

.
I'm leaning toward biting the bullet and just doing the upgrade to power steering now.

[LostMy65]

Hey, look what I found mounted next to the radiator.

I wonder how long its been there?

Original key perhaps.

[LostMy65]

Power Steering is all done:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=438509
Thanks Captainfab.

Engine is running again - I bought a Cheapo Skipwhite:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=427872
Googling skipwhite shows a great number of satisfied owners over dissatisfied.

I will get the 79 Chevy HEI going again as a backup:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=432496

Dumped the externally regulated alternator:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417872
My setup:



Got all the Brake stuff I needed from NAPA:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200268

I'm going to start looking into finding a 14-Bolt for a future swap-out.

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Yep, if you need to replace many, or all the bearings and seals, along with the brakes, it adds up to a pretty big expense. If yours needs much in the way of parts (especially that front pinion bearing) you might consider switching to a later model differential. You might still end up with one that needs some work and parts, but the parts will be less expensive and easier to find. Plus you will have a choice of more highway friendly gears.

I would like some suggestions on the topic of the 14 bolt.
I'm not too overly concerned about mileage - this 66 is a truck - it will be far from being a daily driver.
With the heavy service box, and possible occasional towing, what in the way of gears should I get?
I will surely keep the SM465, 4-Speed w/ granny.
I'm really thinking I'd like the really big brakes - I understand the 1-ton has the bigger brakes.
Also, because I'm not as concerned about the comfort level of the ride, I may just switch to leaf springs.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance,
Robert

[padresag]

I am going to be taking out a 1 ton rear axle from a 65. I know that I am a few mi. up the road from you, but It will be here
ron

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by padresag

I am going to be taking out a 1 ton rear axle from a 65. I know that I am a few mi. up the road from you, but It will be here
ron

Thanks,

Yes, Canada is just a little a drive.

I'm seeing 3/4 ton and 1 ton 14 bolts around here for around $100.
I'm surely going 1-ton. I might as well, the complete front crossmember I got from a guy around the corner from my house is off a 1-ton 79.
The only thing I'm still trying to determine is the best gear ratio to pair up with the SM465. The big box puts my truck at about 5000#. If I was to pull another one of these trucks behind me, I wonder if the 3:73 would still be fine matched to the SM465.

[Captainfab]

For your intended use of this truck, I would look for a 14 bolt with 4.10 gears. The 14 bolts that were under the 1 ton cab and chassis trucks are a little narrower than the ones under the single, and dual wheel trucks with a pickup box. Also since you're bascially building a 1 ton, you could also use a Dana 70, which were used in 1 ton GM's, Fords, and Dodges.

[LostMy65]

I'm thinking the 14 bolt because they are all over the place.
Posted via Mobile Device

[LostMy65]

I've told you guys that under the almond color paintjob the truck is county orange.
The box and all came from the factory county orange.
Under every nook and cranny it's county orange.

Well today I just discovered another neat possibility;
you can see a slight outline of a circle on the door.
The circle's diameter is around 16"
I'm hoping that I'll be able to safely remove the paint to expose who really owned this truck.

[LostMy65]

Anybody have a suggestion on how to remove the paint and safely preserve the sticker?

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

For your intended use of this truck, I would look for a 14 bolt with 4.10 gears.

Done:
.

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Anybody have a suggestion on how to remove the paint and safely preserve the sticker?

Maybe wetsand with very fine paper; 600+?? It would take a long time but its not very abrasive.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by protrash64

Maybe wetsand with very fine paper; 600+?? It would take a long time but its not very abrasive.

That might work.
I know, I'm going to take it really slow.

[LostMy65]

JJorgensen posted a spreadsheet that works pretty cool.
According to the sheet, I'm going to drop about 200-300 rpm at 55.
I've attached it here also.

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

I had a 3.73 behind my SM465/307 and got between 10 and 13 mpg, best cruising in town around 35mph.

If you shoot me your email address I can send you an excel spreadsheet that will give you all the information you're looking for - I have it on my laptop from when I was considering the NV4500 swap.

**EDIT** I figured out how to attach it directly. The spreadsheet is set up with two sheets, for NV4500 and SM465, as I was comparing the two. You can change tire height and rear end ratios (highlighted in yellow) to see what the speeds look like for different ratios and tire heights. Gives you MPH in each gear in 100RPM increments.

[Captainfab]

Cool

Is that a sway bar I see?

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Done:
.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Cool

Is that a sway bar I see?

Possibly,
I don't know much about this stuff, I'm learning as I go - Thanks to you guys.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by 66-PMD-GMC

Don't forget that you have an "emissions" carburetor, you have most probably yanked all the emission crap off so yes, vacuum leaks are very likely. Also, the motor sat while you were doing your build so it is entirely possible that you also have junk in the fuel bowl and elsewhere inside the carb.
I would suggest using what you have for now and saving your $ getting a period correct carb, a 67 Rochester 4bbl.

Okay, I'm convinced.
It idles great, and cruises great, but it stutters when I punch it from low rpms under load. I haven't changed a thing regarding timing, or otherwise.
Engine ran and accelerated just fine when it was in the suburban.
I could just systematically check all possible vacuum issues, but then again, getting a non-emission carb seems to make more sense.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Cool

Is that a sway bar I see?

Here's a pic from another angle:

[66farmer]

Do you think it could be in the drive train like the carrier bearing or the rubber around it.
Keith

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by 66farmer

Do you think it could be in the drive train like the carrier bearing or the rubber around it.
Keith

Those parts do need some attention soon....

However; it's the engine that stutters or misses pretty bad when I punch it.
Everything is fine, acceleration and cruising, as long as I don't punch it.

[LostMy65]

Another project that I wanted to wait until spring/summer to tackle has just been bumped up to next on my list; the axle swap to a 4:10 14-bolt ff.
Fortunately, I already found one from an old friend of mine.
So stay tuned.
I've seen many threads on these swaps for 1/2-tons, but very few on the 3/4.
So I will try to document the project and provide pics.

I hope to start on this around the middle of this month.

[LostMy65]

I had a break in my work schedule, so I decided to pull the Eaton axle out.
I tried whimpingly to unbolt the u-bolts with a 4' pipe extension on a breaker bar - no luck.
So I cut them.
The torque put on these u-bolts is amazing, when I had a little more than a 1/16" to go, the u-bolt snapped apart.

I was told in these forums you should replace the u-bolts either way, and this pic proves that recommendation:

[LostMy65]

I had taken some measurements earlier for these two axles, but today I decided to measure the circumferences of them to get a more precise measurement.

Eaton:
Circumference imperial & metric units =
10-5/8" & 26.85cm



Corporate 14Bolt FullFloater:
Circumference imperial & metric units =
10-3/4" & 27.20cm



..
So, the 14Bolt ff has a circumference of 3.5mm larger than the Eaton.

This translates to less than 3/64" difference in Diameter.

[Captainfab]

Yeah, it really isn't worth the effort to try and save the U-bolts. Unless you know for sure they are in good condition. I've got the parts for the mounts on order with the laser cutter. You'll have them when you get back.

[LostMy65]

Update:

Had to take some time off being swamped with work.

Looking forward to some nice weather and getting greasy again.

[Captainfab]

I had been wondering what happend to you. I'm glad to hear you are busy. I am as well.

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Update:

Had to take some time off being swamped with work.

Looking forward to some nice weather and getting greasy again.