68 C10 SWB "Nasty"

[RatRod68]

yea, i keep thinking about taking it out, but just get lazy and say hell with it. Trucks running real good, been driving it everyday now that i am back in town

[RatRod68]

the heat quit working on ol Nasty, so i went to work trying to figure it out. Took the heater box cover off, and noticed one of the door cables wasn't connected, so i hooked it up, flushed the whole coolant system, and burped it. Worked like a charm. Heat blows hot again.

I now need to put a new set of plugs in it. I keep having missfires, which, the way i drive the truck, i can see why. lol. When i put new plugs in, i just put the copper ones, so i think i am going back to factory spec iridiums.

[RatRod68]

on my way home last night, Nasty started blowing antifreeze everywhere. one of the hose clamps had worked loose, and was allowing the antifreeze to go everywhere. Fixed it, but now i have to clean the engine bay and fill it back up. Since the truck doesn't have an overflow tank, I decided it was time to pick one up. I decided to go with the stainless tube style. The one i got holds 24 oz. and looks pretty good, so i thought it was a good purchase. I'll post some pictures once it gets here and installed

[Tinkermc]

welcome home !!!

[oldman3]

Hey man, glad your posting again. I remember the truck and work your Dad had done. Sorry about the pictures not showing now. Just keep posting anything new, again glad your back....Jim

[RatRod68]

Thanks for the welcome back gents!

Since the last time i posted, the truck didn't do much driving. The starter is dragging, its wanting to overheat every chance it gets, passenger window regulator isn't working, water pump is leaking, and i keep getting condensation in the intake.

My pops also picked up a set of wheels for his new project, but said I could run them until we get his truck together.

Here is a pic of the wheels



Started getting things ready for when the new pump arrives. I got everything removed and the bolts to the WP loose, just waiting on the new one. I went back with AC Delco brand rather than buying reman or aftermarket.



This has me worried... I'm not sure what this is, but it's on the intake where the throttle body meets the intake.

Edit 9/12: This is due to the pvc or pcv whatever the hell its called valve. There is a catch can on the market for LS engines to fix this problem.

[RatRod68]

The new water pump arrived, and i will be installing that likely this week or weekend, depending on time. I also will pull the passenger valve cover and check for nastiness like what you see on the intake and throttle body.

I will run a hydrocarbon test on the coolant system to check if the head gasket or head itself is bad.

Also started tearing down the passenger door, but of course, the screws holding the armrest of stripped. Ill just drill them out and put new ones in.

[oldman3]

Aw, the joys of truck building...Jim

[Tinkermc]

Pops got nice wheels, would like them on my truck.

[RatRod68]

Originally Posted by Tinkermc

Pops got nice wheels, would like them on my truck.

Tell me about it....

[RatRod68]

The main focus has been getting this truck running right again. I knew the waterpump was bad, so as i said before, i replaced it. I also found out thanks to the LS1tech forum, that the crossover vent for the LS heads needs to be plumbed into the cooling system. This has been capped since we installed the engine, so this could have caused a problem.

I did pull the valve cover to check under it for water in the oil anywhere. This is what i found





This is my first time inside this engine, or any LS series engine for that matter. Would you guys consider this good?

There was an EXTREMELY minimal amount of milkiness i found in the oil. I checked the dipstick and in all the crevices above. I also picked up the Napa Hydrocarbon tester as well. Once i get time to get it back together, I'll do the test on it. The new AC Delco pump and factory temp thermostat are now installed. All i am waiting for is the in-hose adapter i ended up buying instead of making. Found a really good looking aluminium one and decided to go that route. Should be here this week.

[RatRod68]

IT LIVES AGAIN!!!

This weekend i finally had some time to dedicate to my pride and joy. I got the valve covers torqued back down, reinstalled everything, and plumbed the pressure relief line for the heads. I also ran a Hydrocarbon test and WAHLAH! It back negative. What this means is no exhaust is entering into the cooling system.

I also climbed my fat ass under the dash and starting checking out why things were not working correctly. Fixed the defrost door, patched up a couple holes in the firewall, and got the vent doors opening and closing properly again.

Now that it is running, and the heads are ok, I can move onto the other issues.

1.) The 3rd universal throttle cable broke on me yesterday. I am looking into finding something better. I may just throw another on now, but it will definitely only be a temp. I shouldn't have to replace a throttle cable this much. (Bought a Lokar)

2.) Check Engine Light is on (MAF wasn't plugged in)

3.) E-Fans are not kicking on (They kicked on at 205*)

(Edited 9/12)

[N2TRUX]

LoKar makes a throttle cable that you won't have to worry about replacing ever again.

[RatRod68]

You're the second person already to suggest that piece...

Maybe the 55.00 bucks it costs is worth it
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[RatRod68]

Tinkered yesterday...

Before...


After... Kinda




The wheels don't fit. The back needs to be moved out about an inch and a half, and the front won't clear the hubs, so now I'm looking at spacers.*

Also found out why the front was squeaking... The pads and rotors are damn near toast.*
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[67c10rustbuket]

Cool project, Love the engine !!

I have seen a lot of people run those wheels and apparently you have to machine a taper down the rotor. I'll try to find a pic for you.

[67c10rustbuket]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=356697&page=9

Here is a description of the machining by my friend mcbassin, link should put you on page 9. Scroll down and enjoy ! I realize the truck is a square body but the brakes are the same. I guess there is a special thread dealing with these wheels and the issues on here as well. Later

[RatRod68]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=356697&page=9

Here is a description of the machining by my friend mcbassin, link should put you on page 9. Scroll down and enjoy ! I realize the truck is a square body but the brakes are the same. I guess there is a special thread dealing with these wheels and the issues on here as well. Later

Hey Dan thanks for the comments and the link! I'm going to try the lazy way and order spacers, as I am not too keep on how far they sit into the fender wells. I run spacers on my other trucks and they do fine. I will definitely read the thread on these wheels though. Since they are just loaners (they are for my dads 68 project) I don't want to modify the truck to fit them.
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[RatRod68]

Also took pics with dads 72




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[Tinkermc]

pic 66 I am inclined to think the camber could be off somewhat, generally I would recommend a 4 way alignment you may bebetter off with 5 lug nuts tight. lookin good

[RatRod68]

Originally Posted by Tinkermc

pic 66 I am inclined to think the camber could be off somewhat, generally I would recommend a 4 way alignment you may bebetter off with 5 lug nuts tight. lookin good

I have a new way of aligning trucks... Lol
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[70cst]

Hey RatRod68 ...

All I can say is SWEET!!!!!

[RatRod68]

Originally Posted by 70cst

Hey RatRod68 ...

All I can say is SWEET!!!!!

Thanks buddy! Please, call me Josh
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[RatRod68]

Updates:

Ordered the pads from LMC, going to take the rotors into town and have them turned, cowl hood is sanded, ready for paint.
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[RatRod68]

I only modified one hub to make sure everything worked out, and it did.

I ordered new pads from LMC, had my rotors turned, then ground down the driver hub, and added a 5/16" spacer and 3/8" longer studs to allow access for the boss wheels. When dad gets his truck driving, we will just swap these hubs with his stock ones. The rears are not yet mounted because we are waiting for the 1 1/4" spacers to arrive. Since my pops wants a tire that is basically the same dimensions of a 31x10.50 on the back of a slammed truck, the tires don't quite agree with his decisions.

Underside of cowl hood is painted. Outside will be faux-tina'd this week and ready for install this weekend.