89' s-10 5.3

[hotrod 80]

[tommys72]

Good looking truck

[hotrod 80]

Pulled the trans yesterday . Old converter campaired to the new one .

[hotrod 80]

I answered a craigslist add about 6 monthes ago for a 55K 6.0 and 4l80e out of a van that was wrecked . The guy had changed his mind and decided not to sell . Well today out of the blue i get a call from an unknown number . I answer and it is the 6.0 guy ,"are you still interested in the 6.0" ? I ask where he is located and he says Baytown . 4 minutes from me . A deal was struck and i now have a low mile 6.0 . My machinist ( built the motor in the yellow truck) ask me if i needed anything . I told him a set of good 243 heads . He has a set with 12000 mile he sold me for $200 . So 6.0 224r and 243 eads . Should make good power .

[hotrod 80]

Trans ended up being pretty worn . I looked everything over . Replacing the plastic pistons , all the aluminum bushings . Wide band and new drum , upgraded sun shell . shift kit , servo upgrade . And fresh soft stuff of coarse Should have it back tonight for reinstall . Around the 1K mark , but i am getting to see all the parts go together . I always hate trans work . Leary of people selling stock stuff to you after paying for good parts .

[straps57]

Like the build. Keep us updated.

[POPO1984]

Originally Posted by hotrod 80

I answered a craigslist add about 6 monthes ago for a 55K 6.0 and 4l80e out of a van that was wrecked . The guy had changed his mind and decided not to sell . Well today out of the blue i get a call from an unknown number . I answer and it is the 6.0 guy ,"are you still interested in the 6.0" ? I ask where he is located and he says Baytown . 4 minutes from me . A deal was struck and i now have a low mile 6.0 . My machinist ( built the motor in the yellow truck) ask me if i needed anything . I told him a set of good 243 heads . He has a set with 12000 mile he sold me for $200 . So 6.0 224r and 243 eads . Should make good power .

Good score

[hotrod 80]

Picked up the 6.0 today . Super clean motor was at the muffler shop on the way home and got offer $1200 on the spot . Hard to pass up , but i kept it . Going to drop off the valve springs tommorow . Also looking at a 92' S-10 Blazer with LS1 and cold A/C .

[hotrod 80]

Well got it all in today and running . Converter will go 1800 on the footbrake so 3200 seems correct . It will probably only be 2600-2800 rpm flash in the light under powered truck , but it'll work good good behind the 6.0 later down the road . Trans is solid .

[hotrod 80]

Axles have not shown up yet . Truck went from 9.16 to 8.82 with converter , who knows wahat tune . I so bad want to do the 6. carbed , but i am trying to get this fuel injection deal down .

[JJLT1]

wtg Hotrod
good luck on the computer tune/FI.
who did the trans?

[hotrod 80]

A guy named Rusty here in Baytown . Gong to test n tune friday to practice fotbraking .

[Hart_Rod]

Nice ride.

[hotrod 80]

Axles showed up , i have the heads in the machine shop right now . Pulling the valves out of the 317's and putting them in the 799's after a surface job and valve springs .

[hotrod 80]

I ended up trying to run this at Super chevy and had fuel pump issues . Got it home and think i have it fixed , but it doesnt seem to be making all the power it should . Not sure if its a trans or motor issue . Best pass was a 14.058 @ 96.56 . It follwed up with a 14.060 @ 95.78 . Then the fuel pump issues started . And it slowed over a second . It has solid 52# fuel pressure and it rises to 55#s as i rev it . I dont know any thing about the fuel injection or tuning . I guess it needs to be put on a dyno and worked over with HP tuners . I was also told to move the intake air temp sensor to the front bumper to make it more consistant . Also sometimes the converter will go to 2000 other times only 1800 . This may be more of a brake issue though .

[Hart_Rod]

How is your fuel system setup? Is is a return or a returnless?

[hotrod 80]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

How is your fuel system setup? Is is a return or a returnless?

It has a return line with the truck manifold style regulator . The fuel pump i was told was a 2000 F body/trans am pump . The info im getting is from F body guys at the race track .

Any info i get is a great help as i am about to swap the 5.3 for the 6.0 this winter . Picked up the heads the other day 243 , valve job , seals and valve springs . Also got gasket set and head bolts . About to start the cam swap and bolt it all back together . When i pull the motor i will notch the fram for the A/C compressor . After that i am going to clean up the floor pan . The previous owner cut the trans tunnel for a 6 speed that never got installed . When i do this , plans are to swap the dash with a nice one i have and add aftermarket A/C /heat / defrost . All info will also apply to the 72,000 mile take out set up about to go into my 49' 5 window also . This is another winter project i have .

[Super73]

224 is a decent street cam. My guess with 243 heads, you will be looking at 380ish to the tire.

IMO the verter will be a little on the tight side, a 4,500 would be a better choice. Remember, with a lock up verter, you can command an early 1-2 shift at part throttle, lock the verter up right after the 1-2 shift and it will keep the heat out of it. This is what I used to do with the 80E and trans temps were 145-160 while driving on the street with a 4,900 rpm verter. The nice thing is you can command it to stay unlocked at WOT until a given speed, or not lock at all.

[hotrod 80]

Originally Posted by Super73

224 is a decent street cam. My guess with 243 heads, you will be looking at 380ish to the tire.

IMO the verter will be a little on the tight side, a 4,500 would be a better choice. Remember, with a lock up verter, you can command an early 1-2 shift at part throttle, lock the verter up right after the 1-2 shift and it will keep the heat out of it. This is what I used to do with the 80E and trans temps were 145-160 while driving on the street with a 4,900 rpm verter. The nice thing is you can command it to stay unlocked at WOT until a given speed, or not lock at all.

The converter is a bit tight . I got a good deal on the 3200 ( $200 from a buddy) . It would be a good one for the 49' I just bought a 300 for it though . I can only get this thing to foot brake to 1800 or so . Just so you know footbraking a power brake truck thhat shifts at the same point in drive is really cool . the 224 was also a deal i got . It was a buddies take out and i got the cam , rockers with trunion upgrade , pushrods , cam , and springs for $200 . The 243's dropped into my lap with a fresh valve job and seals for $225 . Just stuff piling up . Guess people have watched this truck become what it is now and want to help .

[hotrod 80]

Ok , HP tunners and air temp sensor help needed badly . Need to make this thing consistant .

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by hotrod 80

Ok , HP tunners and air temp sensor help needed badly . Need to make this thing consistant .

What help are you looking for?

[Super73]

Is it tuning of the timing table for iat our placement of it that you need help with?

[hotrod 80]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

What help are you looking for?

Yes , all the help i can get

Originally Posted by Super73

Is it tuning of the timing table for iat our placement of it that you need help with?

Yes , i have no ideal what you are even asking .

[Super73]

Are you using a stock intake or a single plain?
Where is the iat located?

There is a section in the timing table that will remove timing if iat is above a certain temp. This can be removed.

[hotrod 80]

The motor is as a stock 2002 suburban 5.3 except short tube headers and the small stall converter . I have no idea about the IAT or where it is located . The F body guys either move this sensor to the bumper or front grill area . also some have them fixed with a resister . One guy told me that his settings or tune stopped having variables at something like 80% throttle for consistancy reasons . I am truely new to this and dont want to take it to someone to get a "tune" that wont do what i need it to .

My main goal is a good solid reliable driver , that will be consistant at the track . If not consistant then at least predictable . Would like to put it in drive and let it shift . Also not interested in going faster than 7.50 ( weird request their )