Why did my drive shaft just fall out of the transmission?

[MikeyMan]

Ignore that pic from Baddflash.

That is NOT the setup you have.

Bite the bullet and get your truck to a driveline shop.

You need the rear shaft lengthened.

[MikeyMan]

Install those new shocks first and then check the engagement of the yoke.
Check and inspect the rear end and make sure everything is secure.
My very first C/10 had a bad trailing arm which caused the rear end to shift around ever so slightly. I was breaking the carrier bearing bracket (like the one in Baddflash's pic) all the time. The rear end sloppiness was putting undue stress on the driveline, as was my heavy right foot.

[Redline novdog]

the springs support the truck.The shocks keep the truck from bouncing. The new shocks will keep the rear end from separating from the truck(same as jacking up the truck by the frame) When you crest a hill and get the roller coaster effect that is when your driveshaft is trying to pull itself off of the splines.New shocks will help that.The fact the driveshaft/rear end/springs...etc is too short is another problem that needs to be addressed at some time. The closer the frame is to the rear end the farther the slip yoke will engage until passing center line.

[brad_man_72]

Wow there's so much misinformation in one post.

A. Get your shaft and or truck to a driveline shop. It at least needs to be rebalanced because it has come apart while moving and probably bent and damaged several parts. It also looks like some hack has been messing with it.

B. Your rear shaft needs to be retubed and balanced with the front shaft at a minimum. Maybe $200 at a driveline shop.

C. You really do have a slip joint in your driveshaft it is not like the other one that people keep posting that has a much different carrier bearing that allows the driveshaft to slip at the transmission that is used on coil spring trucks. Ignore all post about the other design. There's a ton of misinformation about that design around here too that should be saved for other post.

D. At full droop the driveshaft will be shorter than at ride height. Think of the front half of the leaf spring as a short control arm.

E. Shocks aren't going to make your driveshaft too short. I can go take the shocks off of my truck and my driveshaft is still the correct length.

F. Pic of my last job, I probably don't know anything about driveshafts........

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

F. Pic of my last job, I probably don't know anything about driveshafts........

Just another guy bragging about his driveshaft.....

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

Just another guy bragging about his driveshaft.....

That wasn't my driveshaft, my driveshaft is much shorter.

[hamjet]

F. Pic of my last job, I probably don't know anything about driveshafts........
I think that one may a little on the long side for him..

[MikeyMan]

brad_man, about time a pro chimed in. I'm all about taking it to a driveline shop myself.
I believe the OP would've done so by now, but stated his financial difficulties at this time.

Though I have coil spring set ups on all my trucks, I'm curious what the proper amount of "slip" or "engagement" there is on centuryhouse's slip joint set up.

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by MikeyMan

brad_man, about time a pro chimed in. I'm all about taking it to a driveline shop myself.
I believe the OP would've done so by now, but stated his financial difficulties at this time.

Though I have coil spring set ups on all my trucks, I'm curious what the proper amount of "slip" or "engagement" there is on centuryhouse's slip joint set up.

I like to see an inch from bottomed out at ride height for stock suspension. Keith is also a pro he knows his stuff and has taught me a thing or two.

Financial difficulties is the best reason to take it to a pro and have it done right the first time. Driveshafts are deceptivly easy to swap parts on, these shafts need to be balanced after they are messed with. Many of my days at the driveline shop were spent repairing driveshafts tht had been worked on by machine shops and other mechanics.

[centuryhouse]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

I like to see an inch from bottomed out at ride height for stock suspension.

Financial difficulties is the best reason to take it to a pro and have it done right the first time.

For sure. My type of financial situation is more like "I only have $45 to get by on for the next week". There is no pointing going to the shop if I can't pay for the work, so I'll have to wait until I have some money. Hopefully I can set aside a few hundred on next payday and hopefully they can do it for that.

I tried to get a ballpark idea of the best/worst it might likely cost so I'd know how much to save before going, but the guy at the drive shaft shop was a complete jerk about it so I'm still in the dark.

[lil hoodlum]

Years ago I also was faced with issues with my driveshaft ( i.e. u-joints, center support bearing, balancing etc). I tried to do my best and fix what I could do thinking it would save me time and money. My "fixes" helped but never solved anything.


So I finally got fed up one day and took my truck in to Inland Drive Empire. They fixed me up and made all necessary repairs and fixes. Paid around $125 if I recall correctly. Have not had one single issue with the driveshaft since and that was around 15 years ago. Money well spent in my book.

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by centuryhouse

For sure. My type of financial situation is more like "I only have $45 to get by on for the next week". There is no pointing going to the shop if I can't pay for the work, so I'll have to wait until I have some money. Hopefully I can set aside a few hundred on next payday and hopefully they can do it for that.

I tried to get a ballpark idea of the best/worst it might likely cost so I'd know how much to save before going, but the guy at the drive shaft shop was a complete jerk about it so I'm still in the dark.

Yeah there's no way to know the condition of your shaft. Do the ujoints have play, are the yokes bent from being tossed from the truck, is the stub bent, is the tubing bent, are the slip and stub worn out, is the transmission yoke worn out. Way too many variables to throw out a price. Dial indicators, a lathe, and some experience is required to determine condition.
You can't drive the truck like it is, take the shaft to the shop, let them know you don't have much money and you may not be able to pick the shaft up for a couple of weeks depending on the repairs needed. You might be pleasantly suprized, probably not.