No Limit Trailing Arm Rear Suspension

[robnolimit]

[quote=70inbville;7519620]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The drop amount is somewhat adjustable, but I would say you will be in the 5" to 7" area. Outside of this range and you start running out of the range in which the panhard rod stays in a range of 0 to 3 degrees from level. So, call it 6" with a little adjustment range.


Is this drop including the blocks or not? just checking before ordering parts I don't need. Thanks

Good question. let me clarify.

To get the long shock/travel/ride/performance, in a way, total drop was the sacrifice point. WITHOUT a block, just the kit, with the axle directly on the trailing arm, the drop amount is 4" - 5". And, we would like the shock to stay in it's sweet-spot for the best performance. Yes, you could screw down the shock, or run a shorter shock, but that kind-of defeats the purpose. So, if you want more drop, add a 1" (5" - 6" drop) or 2" (6" - 7" drop) block. Blocks and U-bolts are not included with the kit.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by BAGGEDLB7

How well would this setup work for 1/4 mile launches?

Hmm, well, much better than OE or modded OE, due to the increased anti-squat %, and the shock quality and softer spring. But, for hard core drag use, a 4 link would be best.

[70inbville]

Thanks Rob, I want the ride and drop of about 7 in so yes to the blocks. any worries of scrub line with a 16 in wheel with this kit at that drop?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by 70inbville

Thanks Rob, I want the ride and drop of about 7 in so yes to the blocks. any worries of scrub line with a 16 in wheel with this kit at that drop?

Scrub line would be close. The lowest point of the system (like a stock trailing arm), is the U-bolt and hardware under the axle. With out any blocks, this is 5.75" (measured from the axle CL down to the lowest point) with our trailing arm kit. So, with a 2" block, you will have 7.75" from the axle CL down, and a 16" rim will have a scrub line of appx 8.2". So, it's close with a 16" wheel, but you will have .45" to spare.

[70's luvr]

I'm about to put a c-notch in and am really interested in your version that doesn't hack more than whats needed.

[70inbville]

0.45" is a tad close, need to change that plan a bit. I would had to drag on a pebble in the road. Rob, thanks for the great info and help with the plans of many here!!

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by 70inbville

0.45" is a tad close, need to change that plan a bit. I would had to drag on a pebble in the road. Rob, thanks for the great info and help with the plans of many here!!

Scrub line only applies to flat-tire situations

[70inbville]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Scrub line only applies to flat-tire situations

that is also good info to have thanks

[Skippy77]

What a great new option!

Any plans to make this compatible with your raised rear rail kit? Is the test mule in the photos running your wide ride IFS? And if you have a picture with the bed back on yet I'd love to see it!

-Skippy

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The drop amount is somewhat adjustable, but I would say you will be in the 5" to 7" area. Outside of this range and you start running out of the range in which the panhard rod stays in a range of 0 to 3 degrees from level. So, call it 6" with a little adjustment range.

In the picts you can see that the truck has some rake, but the bed is not on. As soon as this is done, like this weekend, I'll get some picts and some finished ride height measurements. We should have done this on the other test trucks but things happen so fast as soon as they get to driving, and we missed the chance.

Hey Rob,

Any pictures with the bed on?

[robnolimit]

Did some more testing this weekend. Bed is on, Truck sits perfect, we put 3/4" of rake in it, to make it 'look' flat. At that point, we had 3.875" of 'up' travel avail, and over 4" of 'droop' avail. Ride quality and street handling is excellent! Our low tech testing with a few cones, and the memory of previous handling characteristics, shows the truck to have much more grip through the corner, a quicker corner entry, and a LOT more acceleration grip at corner exit (this is where it would get loose and want to spin before). I'll get picts up later today

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Did some more testing this weekend. Bed is on, Truck sits perfect, we put 3/4" of rake in it, to make it 'look' flat. At that point, we had 3.875" of 'up' travel avail, and over 4" of 'droop' avail. Ride quality and street handling is excellent! Our low tech testing with a few cones, and the memory of previous handling characteristics, shows the truck to have much more grip through the corner, a quicker corner entry, and a LOT more acceleration grip at corner exit (this is where it would get loose and want to spin before). I'll get picts up later today

No photos? You need to fire your photographer!! LOL

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The drop amount is somewhat adjustable, but I would say you will be in the 5" to 7" area. Outside of this range and you start running out of the range in which the panhard rod stays in a range of 0 to 3 degrees from level. So, call it 6" with a little adjustment range.

In the picts you can see that the truck has some rake, but the bed is not on. As soon as this is done, like this weekend, I'll get some picts and some finished ride height measurements. We should have done this on the other test trucks but things happen so fast as soon as they get to driving, and we missed the chance.

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

No photos? You need to fire your photographer!! LOL

Would still like to see some pictures with the bed on.

[robnolimit]

OK OK. Here are some picts. The truck sits good now with the bed on, but no floor in it yet. The truck has appx 1" rake. One of the things that slowed picts down is that the truck was apart again for a cam swap and a tune. The owner reports that the torque and throttle response is WAY better, and even with the increased power, the truck hooks and leaves with a lot less wheel spin. He also reports that mid corner grip and corner exit grip/acceleration inspires a LOT of confidence. (maybe too much) - But that it really stays connected to the road. The current spring is a 14" 225 lb. We are going to try a 12" 250lb spring to get a little bit more drop, more adjustment on the spring collar, and a bit firmer - about 10% is all. One pict shows the clearance in the notch at Ride Height.

[68Stepbed]

That has a great stance! Thanks for the updated photos, Rob! Now time to start saving my pocket change!! lol

[robnolimit]

Thanks. I have some news coming soon. For the last few years I have been working on a purchasing plan for our customers. This could be huge for the consumer/builder, in the 'time-line' and 'financial planning' areas. It has never been done in Hot-Rodding before (and I understand why). We are very close to an announcement and testing. I'll keep you posted.

[68Stepbed]

Oh really? I may have to swing by one day this week and see about the inside scoop on this!

[smbrouss70]

Wish I lived that close... I'd have one of just about everything that No Limit makes... and I'd be single again...

[Skippy77]

Is this truck running your wide ride IFS?
Posted via Mobile Device

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Skippy77

Is this truck running your wide ride IFS?
Posted via Mobile Device

The truck currently has the front Hotchkis TVS system on it, with drop spindles.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Thanks. I have some news coming soon. For the last few years I have been working on a purchasing plan for our customers. This could be huge for the consumer/builder, in the 'time-line' and 'financial planning' areas. It has never been done in Hot-Rodding before (and I understand why). We are very close to an announcement and testing. I'll keep you posted.

Interested in learning more about this.

[duallyjams]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Thanks. I have some news coming soon. For the last few years I have been working on a purchasing plan for our customers. This could be huge for the consumer/builder, in the 'time-line' and 'financial planning' areas. It has never been done in Hot-Rodding before (and I understand why). We are very close to an announcement and testing. I'll keep you posted.

awesome

[SierraMtns]

Hey Rob,

I have a couple questions before I place my order.

1. Could we order the kit with 12" 250lb spring?

2. Would this kit work with your guys rear sway bar?

http://www.nolimitengineering.com/pr...tegory=6157532

3. Would the kit work with this c-notch? It looks like it would but I am hoping you could tell from the pictures if it would or not.



4. Is the pinion angle built into the trailing arms or would I need to run shims?

5. Whats the lead time on one of these kits?

Thanks

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Now it's drill time. Use a 3/8" drill to drill out the rear hole for mounting the coil-over bracket. Then use 1 5/8" bit to drill through the frame for the upper coil-over mount bolt. Put the third mount bolt in place.

TIP: For the 5/8" hole, start with a 5/8" bit, using the bracket as a guide to center the drill. Stop after about 20 seconds. You should have the beginning od a hole started, in the center. Switch to a 1/4" bit and drill out a pilot hole, using the center from the 5/8" bit. Then go back to the 5/8" bit and open the hole up. This is much easier than fighting with the 5/8" bit all the way though.

*** Note the poition of the gusset on the mounting bracket. It is to the rear of the truck. There are 'left' and 'right' hand brackets. ***

Is a 1 5/8" bit needed or 5/8" drill bit? I marked it in red.

Thanks

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

This truck already had a bolt-in notch. Now, lets talk about that. Shame on the aftermarket. Shame on them for helping you cut into your truck for no reason. ??? OK, the frame is approximately 4" tall (rail height), keep that in mind. Also, the rear gear housing is about 4" above the top of the axle tube. (top of center chunk to top of axle tube. So, if you pull the bump stops, and the axle travels up to hit the bottom of the frame, the top of the center section (gear housing) is even with the top of the frame. Are you with me so far? Now realize that the OE bed floor is .75" above the top of the frame. (Or worse, even with it if it's a wood floor). So, if the axle travels up more than 3/4" into the notch, WHAMMO, it hits the bed floor. So, if your keeping the OE bed floor, a 1" notch with a side mounted bump stop is all you need, and you wouldn't cut the frame so much.OK, I know some of you want it lower, and will cut a hole in the bed floor, but that's not what we're doing here. Please think about the notch thing before you cut.

We are working on a notch kit with bump-stops included, but the forming match may take another two months. We are not going to include bolt-in C notches with this kit. We will have them available separately. But, sincle so many trucks are already notched, we are not going to force you to buy something that you don't need, or don't want.

How is the notch coming along? We are close to months out from when you posted this.

Also would the notch work if you are running this kit with 2" blocks? Or would you need to run a deeper notch?