Sell...Don't Sell

[made2drag]

$15 for a fuel pump, $3 for fuel filter, $20 for oil change, $15 for spark plugs, $15 plug wires, $3 for starter fluid...if it has points, clean them...borrow the battery from your daily driver...

tell us what it does or doesn't do and we can diagnose it here on this thread. You'd be surprised how well brakes will hold up....I mean you have disc brakes so $30 for 2 calipers and $40 for new soft lines from calipers to hard lines and fresh brake fluid might be all you need. and that's is the calipers or hoses need it and maybe they dont

[made2drag]

Keep it and hand it down....

Don't shoot for a show truck until money is right later...patina shop trucks are always cool

[Dad's72]

Originally Posted by made2drag

$15 for a fuel pump, $3 for fuel filter, $20 for oil change, $15 for spark plugs, $15 plug wires, $3 for starter fluid...if it has points, clean them...borrow the battery from your daily driver...

tell us what it does or doesn't do and we can diagnose it here on this thread. You'd be surprised how well brakes will hold up....I mean you have disc brakes so $30 for 2 calipers and $40 for new soft lines from calipers to hard lines and fresh brake fluid might be all you need. and that's is the calipers or hoses need it and maybe they dont

I can get all this and get with Mike C since he offered to lend a hand as it seems he is a little more experienced with these old trucks than I am and see what happens. Probably in May when our sons sports seasons are over and we can get together on a weekend and see if the ol girl will fire up and run.

Thanks for all the encouragement from everyone. I must admit I feel a little better about it and have a new perspective about the truck. I know I will feel a world different about even if I can just start it up and listen to it run again.

[AKC]

Your world will be a happier place when it does. You should start a build/project thread and document all the little things you do for it.

I wish you and your truck the best...

[Mike C]

Originally Posted by Dad's72

My parents house is in South Austin as well. We are about 5 miles apart. This is an awesome offer. I will take you up on it for sure. I am pretty busy on weekends right now with T-Ball games and practice. I will PM you and I will get some stuff together and maybe you and help me figure out why it doesn't run. Thanks.

Awesome. It's crazy how much it takes to be involved with the kids. Sports and the rain should be over in 6-8 weeks we'll get you on the path!

[72 Super]

I have one my parents bought new in the August of 71. My dad gave it to me when I was 16, I'm 43 now and I haven't been able to start a restoration yet. I know everyone situation is different ,but if you have somewhere to keep it no need o sell IMO. I'm not sure what shape yours is in, but you can do a little at a time. Trust me you WILL regret selling it although I know circumstances do come up.

Ray

[davepl]

My Dad died in '96, hard to believe it's 20 years. So today I took the first new car he ever bought, a 1969 Pontiac 2+2, and blasted it up the Snoqualmie mountain pass at 100mph. OK, mostly I was going 85, which was traffic flow in the slow lane! It's still an old car, even restored.

Don't sell it. You can't get it back. Here's me and my Dad in 1970, then me and my first son 30 years later (and that's 16 years ago now... sheesh). Note the same plate number! I imagine there are black-plate cars with older plates, but not that common to have the same plate for 47 years!

I will say that having a 3-digit license plate from "Saskatchewan" is kind of a license to drive however you'd like :-) They just roll their eyes and figure you're a hillbilly. 3 digits!

When he died I had the option of buying his '68 GMC from my mom (he really hung onto vehicles!), but I figured one car was enough, I wasn't building a shrine. But I inevitably found and restored a different GMC 20 years later didn't I? Case in point.

[Elliot949]

If you sell this truck you will regret it for the rest of your life... Read My Thread on "Raymond"... very similar story... There will be a time when you will be able to do the truck justice, just keep the dream...

Even if you buy one part a month or two months or 10 months... it is progress and you will find yourself being able to work through it...

[Dad's72]

Updated pictures of the cancer that is eating up my truck. These are pictures of the passenger side floors, door skin, door jam, and drip rail

[Dad's72]

This is the drivers side. Rockers are not to good neither. This is a spot on the rear windshield that had rusted through. So y'all think the entire window channel is toast?
For those of y'all that have done this before, how bad does all this look to y'all? What do y'all think it would run to drop off the cab at a shop just to have the cab restored and primed?

[Dad's72]

Here is the interior and roof.

[Dad's72]

Here is the hood and SPID. I know some of y'all are into those. I know the hood and roof top are surface rust but how bad do y'all think the rest of the cab looks?

[35boulder]

Don't sell. Keep it even if its yard art.

[Dad's72]

I have decided to man up and keep it. I'm planning on parking it the garage to keep it out of the elements. Now I'm just wondering how far gone it is wit the rust. I have made room for it at my house. I just couldn't get over how long it is. 17' 6" bumper to bumper.

[flashed]

That rust aint that bad compared to what mine was .

[66clow]

It appears to be typical rust for these trucks. It will cost a pretty penny for someone to fix it for you. I'd say follow the forum, do your research, and learn as you go to repair it yourself. Take your time with it. Get it road worthy first, worry about the rust later. A little at a time.

[Dad's72]

This is what was bumming me out. In my mind it seems pretty significant. But then again I have never restored a vehicle before. Houses are easy to restore but for some reason vehicles seem a lot harder to me. The rest of the body is perfect. The truck was sprayed with an undercoating so there isn't too much rust underneath. Just the cab.

[1972BlueC20]

wow this is the only other paint code 559 like mine that I have seen on this forum, they seem to be fairly rare.

looks like someone might have painted over the lighter blue on the cab at one point to match the rest of the body.

my vote is keep it, if you lived closer (im in Houston) i'd help you get it road worthy. you could just drive it like it is until you can fix it up and make it look nicer.

you could always make a rat rod out of it LOL j/k

Here is my truck, with the 559 paint

[1972BlueC20]

another pic showing the lighter blue on the cab better.

i took the tool box off, think it looks better without imho

[Dad's72]

You can tell my truck's cab is lighter in the first set of pictures. Maybe not, but in person you can tell the top is lighter. I like your truck. Good looking. Is yours stock height?
And yes, I think it looks better without the toolbox. Inspiration for sure all over this forum.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I see what happened to your cab

All of your cab's problems stem from one issue... somewhere along the way, someone stripped out all of the seam sealer and never put it back in. This is clearly seen in the circled area of the pic, you can see the upper roof skin with a gap to the drip rail. The top skin sits on top of the lower roof skin (the skin you see inside of the cab). The seam sealer keeps water out from the inner structure. When there is no seam sealer it can wreak havoc inside of your cab. The areas you see rusted, the door drip rails, the inner floor panel, are all due to water intrusion from not having the drip rail caulked. It might not bee too bad. You can replace the drip rails and weld up pinholes, etc. But the rectangular area concerns me, as it looks like some of the top skin is gone, and it looks like someone tried to cover up the damage with caulking. Peel down the windshield seal inside the cab at the top, are there any holes? Push on it right above the windshield, do any areas feel soft or "crunchy"?

[67ChevyRedneck]

Don't panic... it's not the end of the world. I would use a wire wheel on a drill to clean up all of the rusty areas, and use some sort of rust converter (turns "rust" to black metal). Then spray some spray can etching primer and seam seal the roof. At this point i would probably spray can the roof white or find a place to match your paint in spray cans.

Wear eye protection and at least a 3M organic vapor respirator.

This should all only cost about $100 and some time to get it looking good again. It's not a permanent fix, but if kept out of the weather, should last you long enough so it can be addressed correctly.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I had to recently repair my truck as well, this is after cleaning, rust killer, primer, seam sealer, and more primer. Still haven't finished yet...

[Dad's72]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Don't panic... it's not the end of the world. I would use a wire wheel on a drill to clean up all of the rusty areas, and use some sort of rust converter (turns "rust" to black metal). Then spray some spray can etching primer and seam seal the roof. At this point i would probably spray can the roof white or find a place to match your paint in spray cans.

Wear eye protection and at least a 3M organic vapor respirator.

This should all only cost about $100 and some time to get it looking good again. It's not a permanent fix, but if kept out of the weather, should last you long enough so it can be addressed correctly.

Man, thanks for the advice. I will do this right away. Now when you say wire wheel. Would a wire wheel on a grinder be too harsh? Or are you talking about a wire wheel on an electric drill? I have both in my garage so which would work best? Also I do not know what the best brand rust converter is and do not know what seem sealer is? I can Google with the best of them but if you may know what brand might be better than others that would be a great help.
Thanks again.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I'd use a drill, a grinder spins too fast.



I use eastwood's stuff, but holy crap has it gotten expensive. I bought a gallon of it, used it a lot, and still have over 1/2 gallon left. You can get away with one of the small bottles. Wal-Mart used to sell an aerosol rust converter spray that was pretty good, but I don't remember if they carry it anymore.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html

I think this is it:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Mar-...ealer/49713007

This is a good seam sealer. $. You'll probably need 2. It makes a mess... but you can sand it if you get it where you don't want it, or wipe it off immediately with a prep cleaner.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8531-3M-Heav...424707&vxp=mtr

What sucks is that your cab would have nowhere near the damage it has now if someone had just put the seam sealer back in when it was removed