57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[yossarian19]

I like the 4.8 just fine. It's more engine than my suspension can really handle (so far)
The truck weighs 4900 lbs with me in it. With a 4L60E and the factory (I think 3.90) rear end, I can spin the tires in first with no difficulty. Second pulls pretty hard. Third is strong, still accelerating pretty quick. Fourth will hold and slowly accelerate up any of the hills I've driven, probably 500-1,000 ft elevation.
You do pay for displacement. The 4.8's are cheap, the 5.3's a little more. A 6.0 is a big price jump. Around here you can find a 5.3 complete for 750, 800. A 6.0 will run 1,200 to 2,000. $500 isn't life changing but it's more cash than I can personally ignore.
Doing it again, I'd go 5.3. For another $200 or so you get more power across the board, and if you go gen 4 you get VVT as well. Why not?

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

I like the 4.8 just fine. It's more engine than my suspension can really handle (so far)
The truck weighs 4900 lbs with me in it. With a 4L60E and the factory (I think 3.90) rear end, I can spin the tires in first with no difficulty. Second pulls pretty hard. Third is strong, still accelerating pretty quick. Fourth will hold and slowly accelerate up any of the hills I've driven, probably 500-1,000 ft elevation.
You do pay for displacement. The 4.8's are cheap, the 5.3's a little more. A 6.0 is a big price jump. Around here you can find a 5.3 complete for 750, 800. A 6.0 will run 1,200 to 2,000. $500 isn't life changing but it's more cash than I can personally ignore.
Doing it again, I'd go 5.3. For another $200 or so you get more power across the board, and if you go gen 4 you get VVT as well. Why not?

Yup.
The newer GENV also rated at like @375 HP. Dealing with DOD though and newer tech means getting other accessories/cams/harnesses and info harder to get and more $$.

Really shooting for a GEN3 6.0 or a gen4 5.3 ..... generally around $2200 with a 4l80e trans takeout. Think whatever the best engine for the $$ I can find at the time will dictate - I do know longer term I will probably put a turbo in the truck ...... but thats in the year following getting it back on road.

Got to think near 300HP on a 4500lb truck will fine to begin with .....

[yossarian19]

If you're going to turbo it, visit the sloppy mechanics youtube channel and web site.
It's pretty trivial to make 500, 600 wheel horsepower with a turbo and an LS engine, even a gen3 4.8.
Of course, it's even easier with an gen4 6 liter LY6

[FAKKY]

Will do

If it was a direct bolt in - Id probably do it now. But don't want to deal with custom fabrication - and rather get the truck up and running and enjoy it (payback) earlier -- even though means a second tear down at later stage

My last truck was a twin turbo diesel So I do like my spool

Always fun going past someone in a heavy old truck in traffic :P ....... that feeling of pinned in your seat.

But we will see what 250-300HP looks like first.

[FAKKY]

Damn those rivets are no joke.
That HF hammer isnt going to work with my pancake compressor.

Going to have to drill .... or come up with a better idea.

[Chevy1957-6400]

Awesome!

[FAKKY]

So - if you decide to not wear safety glasses whilst grinding/cutting metal. This is what you can look for

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PiAPWIF7yk

[FAKKY]

On better news - teardown on the main crossmember begins. Turns out that the drilling method sucks. Best was basically scoring across the head 2-3 times and then shearing off with a good rotary hammer I borrowed from neighbour ...



Once that was done .... I put in the front brace/spreader from IC kit. Turns out they welded the mating flange a few degerees out meaning the botls wouldnt align ..... a good C CLAMP helped realign here.

[FAKKY]

After all rivets were cut/sheared off I sawzalled down the sides and the middle of the crossmember.



However event with all rivets on both sides cut and off ....... couldnt get it apart. Punch didnt do much at all ........ so basically ended up using pickle fork and various claw hammers around it to eventually pry it off.

Not an easy task at all - in fact the rivets heads really werent that bad with right tool - but getting it off was a bear.

[FAKKY]

Will start putting in the Industrial Chassis IFS supports and crossmmeber tomorrow. Will tack weld them in place when IM happy and have a pro come and mobile them together.

[Advanced Design]

Some great, hard fought progress!

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Some great, hard fought progress!

Thanks Doug.
Looking forward to getting this done and moving onto rear or wiring or engine.
You boys that have done this before are no joke. You move quick.

[ChuckDriver]

Looks good!

[Nut Case]

"F"

I'm always in favor of Overkill it's always over rated!!!!

ie. Rotohammer

Build is fun

Keep on keepin on

NC

[Nut Case]

Under

[FAKKY]

Thanks.
Well I did a bit more cleanup including cutting off the steering box. Did a mock fitup and there is clearance issues due to the lower frame. So that has to be cutout (instructions do say so).

Basically all this metal on the outside of the boxing plates needs to be cutout with a sawzall.




So then I after I put it back together - but IM still about 1/16th inch too short frame to frame meaning I cant get the cross member in place. Pretty sure Im either going to have to spread the frame that distance of grind back on the crossmember. But I stopped here due to wanting to check with Steve at IC that thats normal.

Here you see the chevron back spacers that go plush against the inside of the frame to space out the boxing plates and add strength.

[Nut Case]

"F"

Trim the lower part of the C channel frame to match the upper, then measure and measure again to get it straight, plumb and level before you begin to install the cross member.

Looking great so far.

Keep on keepin on

NC

[FAKKY]

Thanks. Lower frame (c channel) has been cut and is not providing a clearance issue. The lip of the cross member catches the edge of the boxing plate. Obviously those can't really move much with the Chevron spacers. Probably 1/8th inch overall.

So think I'll have to spread it slightly then reposition and tighten up.

[FAKKY]

This came in mail today. That's a lot of wire.

[Kim57]

Looks like fun.
Kim

[yossarian19]

before spreading the frame, I would want to be sure it has / hasn't moved. It should be pretty much dead nuts at 34" top and bottom. I know there is a brace in there but even so, I'd measure it. If it's true to width at 34" top and bottom, well, see what the guys at IC say but I'd start grinding the cross member.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

before spreading the frame, I would want to be sure it has / hasn't moved. It should be pretty much dead nuts at 34" top and bottom. I know there is a brace in there but even so, I'd measure it. If it's true to width at 34" top and bottom, well, see what the guys at IC say but I'd start grinding the cross member.

Ill post some measurements tonight. Not seeming to get much chance to work on it in evenings between other commitments or just being plain tired after work.

Looking to do a welding workshop here in next couple weeks also. Not sure how much Ill learn - in terms of 3 3 hour classes ........ but hey.

IC said to spread it.

[FAKKY]

So IC said it should be 28.5" inside of each frame boxing plate.
I got 28.375".



And dont think its operator error as you can see its clamped .... and the chevrons (spacers) are fully seated.



So think no choice but to spread the beams here ........

[FAKKY]

Here are two bearings I bought to see about reusing the stock shaft.



I think either would work depending on how much further back I took the outer column .... but the smaller one will almost fit as it is here (cutoff right at box)



The other larger bearing seems better quality and sealed better however - but Im sure Ill have to spread the column somehow.

Still really undecided and confused on column. I know some guys have used the later vans but Im not sure I quite like the look. I think some of the late 60's columns work I think ...... but not really buying that much over stock column I dont think instead of not having to deal with bearing.
Also the CPP column saver kit for $80.

Kind of makes me think I'll end up with ididit column and just be done ..... but $800 versus $5 for a bearing ....... ouch

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

before spreading the frame, I would want to be sure it has / hasn't moved. It should be pretty much dead nuts at 34" top and bottom. I know there is a brace in there but even so, I'd measure it. If it's true to width at 34" top and bottom, well, see what the guys at IC say but I'd start grinding the cross member.

34" - dead on (at least as best as I can measure)