Door Assembly...the EASY way

[zicc1835]

thank you

[gmc 2500 4x4]

cool. thanx

[Silver68]

Thanks for sharing Randy as I'm getting ready too replace all my door seals
Good on you

[greentruck]

Great write up and perfect timing as I had planned to put my doors back together this weekend. Thank you!

[hdixon]

Originally Posted by STAP54

I'm with the others...thank you for this write up. Being new to the C10 world, I really hope to learn a lot from you all. It will save time, and hopefully some extra cash!

I would like to say thanks for all the information I have not gotten started yet but now I have an ideal what I need to do to get the job done I will keep everyone posted on the progress thanks again with pictures

[hdixon]

Originally Posted by randy500

Been taking apart a bunch of rusty doors lately and had to assemble a couple too. While there are some threads on this process, I didn't find one to be definitive, this one is.
Tool List
3/8 drive #2 and #3 Philips screwdriver bits, available online, harbor freight, Lowes, maybe home depot or sears
Air or electric 3/8 drive impact, I like using my DeWalt cordless driver impact with a 3/8 drive adapter, lots of power and no hose to get in my way.
Combination square, remove the ruler portion and use the ruler to release window sweep clips. This works much better than a screwdriver since its thicker and wider, it also won’t go under the clip, it just pushes it up and as it pushes up it releases the clip.

Disassembly
1. Remove lower rear channel, 2 Philips head machine bolts under door panel, one Philips head machine screw in door jamb above latch.

2. Remove door lock, (makes clearance for the door latch)

3. Remove door latch with handle control and lock rod attached.

4. Remove window inner whiskers and outer rubber wipe, use the ruler portion of a combination, slide it along the lower window opening until you encounter the clip, lower it to get under the clip then push up to release the clip, continue from one end to the other until all are released, use your other hand to pull up on the whisker or rubber sweep to get it released.

5. Slide the window all the way back to the rear till it touches the door

6. Remove the wing window, 3 Philips head screws in the door frame and 2 Philips head machine screws under the door panel, use your impact so you don’t round them out. Tilt the wing window back, then start pulling it up until you’re in the middle of the door frame window opening, rotate the forward pointy part to the inside of the window opening (passenger compartment side) and extract the assembly. (if you extract it from the outer side there is less clearance.)

7. Slide the window forward an inch or so and roll the window up while supporting the upper glass until the window lower channel with the regulator rollers exits the door, then slide the window off the regulator rollers. The window should exit the door frame on the outer side.

8. Remove the window regulator.

Assembly
1. Install regulator

2. Roll up regulator while guiding rollers through window opening until the rollers are outside the window opening an inch or so.

3. Slide the glass on the rollers, outside the window opening from front to rear. Rolle the window down all the way and slide glass to rear as far as it will go.

4. Install the wing window from inside the window opening (passenger compartment side) with wing window pointing towards passenger compartment. When lower channel is far enough in the door, turn the assembly 90 degrees and push if forward to seat in the opening.

5. Install door latch with lock rod and handle control attached as one unit.

6. Install door lock

7. Roll the window all the way up, install the window rear channel, just install the door jamb screw and this time and install it one revolution from finger tight, this allows it to dangle free but not too-free.

8. Roll the window all the way down and slide forward into front channel.

9. Slide the rear run channel weather-stripping down into the door feeding it into the lower rear channel. (You should mark the weather-strip upper length needed prior to doing this so you know when to stop feeding it down.) Ensure the weather-strip is fully seated in the rear channel especially at the very top of the channel.

10. Install the lower rear channel remaining machine screws and tighten them all.

11. Install the inner and outer window sweeps.

Short cuts and why they don’t work and just cause frustration.
1. Not removing the door latch.
If you don’t do this there is not enough room to remove the wing window without forcing it out. If you remove the latch you have enough room to slide the window back far enough so that the wing window has clearance between the window and the welded door support which holds the inner and outer door skins together.

2. Not removing the door lock at all or before removing the door latch.
The door latch is difficult to remove or install with the lock in the way, just take it out. Pry the clip off with a long pry bar against the inner door structure, then retrieve it with flashlight and magnet, grease the clip before installing it will help it slide in.

3. Removing or installing the latch with the handle control and lock rod attached.
The clips for the rods are difficult to maneuver and install or release inside the door, lay it out on the bench and install as one unit to make it easier.

4. Not removing the window sweeps.
You need them removed to get the window lower channel and regulator rollers to clear the window opening to remove the window from the regulator. Removing them also creates clearance for the wing window lower support to clear the opening.

5. Changing the regulator without full door disassembly
Don’t even try to shortcut the process by thinking you can change this without full door disassembly, you will regret it. It is possible but it’s hard to get the 3 rollers in the channels and the wing window interferes with the regulator, its especially bad if it’s a ’72 regulator with the longer shaft, you just cut up your arms trying to save a few steps, its not worth it.

6. The door frame tilts inward therefore I should remove the wing window from the outside of the window opening.
Sound theory but the clearance problem is with the lower screw bracket on the wing window inside of the door, when you do it this way that part has less room inside the door as the inner door has more clearance towards the outer door skin since it curves outward from the door frame.
The clearance to rotate the wing window is increased if you install the wing window from the passenger compartment side of the door frame opening.

I will only be Assembling can I put the door regulator in first? and all its parts. then put the window regulator in after then install the vent window

[hdixon]

I, would like to add a commit as well. I am in the process of rebuilding my 1969 step side. I have never worked on any kind of door in fact I was going to have someone install all new parts in my doors at a very costly price of course now that I have join this site and read Randy add I am going to attempt to rebuild my own doors with new everything. Before reading this I was afraid to even try to do something like this. I will keep everyone post as to how I made out with this installation thanks again Randy awesome wright up. by the way another member gave this search thank you also.

Hank

[randy500]

Originally Posted by hdixon

I, would like to add a commit as well. I am in the process of rebuilding my 1969 step side. I have never worked on any kind of door in fact I was going to have someone install all new parts in my doors at a very costly price of course now that I have join this site and read Randy add I am going to attempt to rebuild my own doors with new everything. Before reading this I was afraid to even try to do something like this. I will keep everyone post as to how I made out with this installation thanks again Randy awesome wright up. by the way another member gave this search thank you also.

Hank

As to your first question...follow the steps, it’s the only way it works without frustration.
Post back and let me know how it works out.

[TruDom]

for the more visual:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RY3yXCjqkZE
and assembly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zay64xBOgD8&

[72 tigger]

Originally Posted by TruDom

for the more visual:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RY3yXCjqkZE
and assembly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zay64xBOgD8&

I prefer Randy's advise over these

[hdixon]

Originally Posted by randy500

As to your first question...follow the steps, it’s the only way it works without frustration.
Post back and let me know how it works out.

I will for sure.
I like the video from youtube however he do not show how the window channel rubber go in also he starts with the door regulator first and install all the lock, latch & handle were your instruction starts with window regulator which will give more space inside the door when you need to slide the glass back for the vent again my option and my first again thanks for the good info

[Longhorn 69]

Thanks for the Info, Randy, I will be needing this in the near future. This should make things a lot easier.

[Custom/20]

Great info! Thanks!

[hdixon]

Originally Posted by randy500

Been taking apart a bunch of rusty doors lately and had to assemble a couple too. While there are some threads on this process, I didn't find one to be definitive, this one is.
Tool List
3/8 drive #2 and #3 Philips screwdriver bits, available online, harbor freight, Lowes, maybe home depot or sears
Air or electric 3/8 drive impact, I like using my DeWalt cordless driver impact with a 3/8 drive adapter, lots of power and no hose to get in my way.
Combination square, remove the ruler portion and use the ruler to release window sweep clips. This works much better than a screwdriver since its thicker and wider, it also won’t go under the clip, it just pushes it up and as it pushes up it releases the clip.

Disassembly
1. Remove lower rear channel, 2 Philips head machine bolts under door panel, one Philips head machine screw in door jamb above latch.

2. Remove door lock, (makes clearance for the door latch)

3. Remove door latch with handle control and lock rod attached.

4. Remove window inner whiskers and outer rubber wipe, use the ruler portion of a combination, slide it along the lower window opening until you encounter the clip, lower it to get under the clip then push up to release the clip, continue from one end to the other until all are released, use your other hand to pull up on the whisker or rubber sweep to get it released.

5. Slide the window all the way back to the rear till it touches the door

6. Remove the wing window, 3 Philips head screws in the door frame and 2 Philips head machine screws under the door panel, use your impact so you don’t round them out. Tilt the wing window back, then start pulling it up until you’re in the middle of the door frame window opening, rotate the forward pointy part to the inside of the window opening (passenger compartment side) and extract the assembly. (if you extract it from the outer side there is less clearance.)

7. Slide the window forward an inch or so and roll the window up while supporting the upper glass until the window lower channel with the regulator rollers exits the door, then slide the window off the regulator rollers. The window should exit the door frame on the outer side.

8. Remove the window regulator.

Assembly
1. Install regulator

2. Roll up regulator while guiding rollers through window opening until the rollers are outside the window opening an inch or so.

3. Slide the glass on the rollers, outside the window opening from front to rear. Rolle the window down all the way and slide glass to rear as far as it will go.

4. Install the wing window from inside the window opening (passenger compartment side) with wing window pointing towards passenger compartment. When lower channel is far enough in the door, turn the assembly 90 degrees and push if forward to seat in the opening.

5. Install door latch with lock rod and handle control attached as one unit.

6. Install door lock

7. Roll the window all the way up, install the window rear channel, just install the door jamb screw and this time and install it one revolution from finger tight, this allows it to dangle free but not too-free.

8. Roll the window all the way down and slide forward into front channel.

9. Slide the rear run channel weather-stripping down into the door feeding it into the lower rear channel. (You should mark the weather-strip upper length needed prior to doing this so you know when to stop feeding it down.) Ensure the weather-strip is fully seated in the rear channel especially at the very top of the channel.

10. Install the lower rear channel remaining machine screws and tighten them all.

11. Install the inner and outer window sweeps.

Short cuts and why they don’t work and just cause frustration.
1. Not removing the door latch.
If you don’t do this there is not enough room to remove the wing window without forcing it out. If you remove the latch you have enough room to slide the window back far enough so that the wing window has clearance between the window and the welded door support which holds the inner and outer door skins together.

2. Not removing the door lock at all or before removing the door latch.
The door latch is difficult to remove or install with the lock in the way, just take it out. Pry the clip off with a long pry bar against the inner door structure, then retrieve it with flashlight and magnet, grease the clip before installing it will help it slide in.

3. Removing or installing the latch with the handle control and lock rod attached.
The clips for the rods are difficult to maneuver and install or release inside the door, lay it out on the bench and install as one unit to make it easier.

4. Not removing the window sweeps.
You need them removed to get the window lower channel and regulator rollers to clear the window opening to remove the window from the regulator. Removing them also creates clearance for the wing window lower support to clear the opening.

5. Changing the regulator without full door disassembly
Don’t even try to shortcut the process by thinking you can change this without full door disassembly, you will regret it. It is possible but it’s hard to get the 3 rollers in the channels and the wing window interferes with the regulator, its especially bad if it’s a ’72 regulator with the longer shaft, you just cut up your arms trying to save a few steps, its not worth it.

6. The door frame tilts inward therefore I should remove the wing window from the outside of the window opening.
Sound theory but the clearance problem is with the lower screw bracket on the wing window inside of the door, when you do it this way that part has less room inside the door as the inner door has more clearance towards the outer door skin since it curves outward from the door frame.
The clearance to rotate the wing window is increased if you install the wing window from the passenger compartment side of the door frame opening.

Hey Randy as I mention early this week I was going to install all new parts in my new door well today I did just that and wow it went fairly well had a couple of snags but over all it went great and one door is completely new rubber seal and everything again this was my first time ever doing something ever installing window parts and I feel good about it because I almost had taken my truck to a classic shop to get it done big bucks for that again thank you so much big help

[custom10nut]

Subscribed for future use

[randy500]

Originally Posted by hdixon

Hey Randy as I mention early this week I was going to install all new parts in my new door well today I did just that and wow it went fairly well had a couple of snags but over all it went great and one door is completely new rubber seal and everything again this was my first time ever doing something ever installing window parts and I feel good about it because I almost had taken my truck to a classic shop to get it done big bucks for that again thank you so much big help

Happy it worked for you.

I did a door yesterday and one today, I timed it today and it took 42 minutes to assemble one door.

I'm going to add a description to the instructions on the first page of this thread....about how to get the window on the regulator.

[hdixon]

Originally Posted by randy500

Happy it worked for you.

I did a door yesterday and one today, I timed it today and it took 42 minutes to assemble one door.

I'm going to add a description to the instructions on the first page of this thread....about how to get the window on the regulator.

wow that's got to be record breaking time getting the window on the regulator was easy for me I finish the second door today the rear channel glide was a bear to get my screws in the correct place but we got her done again thank you could not have did it without your help now I have money to buy more parts enjoy your holiday.my next step is to try and install a IDIDIT tilt steering wheel on my 69

Kind Regards,

[89AKurt]

Over a year since this was bumped. I'm getting tired of "power" windowing by pushing down and pulling up, just want new felt channel.

[Getter-Done]

Another monthly Bump to the top.
Randy I almost have your instruction memorized.
I tore down three doors yesterday all in different states of rust/robbed parts/ been outside off the truck too Long.
I salvaged several parts and have some screws Soaking for another attempt later.
Just want to add too this.
It is possible to get the window out with a Rusted Shut regulator.
It is not the easiest thing to do but don't give up because the original windows are worth the time.
You just keep sliding the window from front to back.
That lets you get the rollers out one at a time.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Another monthly Bump to the top.
Randy I almost have your instruction memorized.
I tore down three doors yesterday all in different states of rust/robbed parts/ been outside off the truck too Long.
I salvaged several parts and have some screws Soaking for another attempt later.
Just want to add too this.
It is possible to get the window out with a Rusted Shut regulator.
It is not the easiest thing to do but don't give up because the original windows are worth the time.
You just keep sliding the window from front to back.
That lets you get the rollers out one at a time.

Happy the thread is of use to you and the others that have posted.

[shoveldug]

Assembled both my doors last night. This worked great! Thank you for sharing it is greatly appreciated!!!

[Red71gmc]

Subscribed to this. Good info

[MySons68C20]

Thank you randy500!! I just finished putting in the wings and door glass in my 68.
I printed out your instructions and followed them to the letter and they went in perfect.
When we first pulled the truck apart we couldn't hardly get the wing windows out but with your great advice it was so easy!
Thanks again for the awesome write up!

Blake

[randy500]

Regulator installed with refgulator rolled as far up as possible with window rollers outside of door.

[randy500]

Slide window front to back onto rear roller, then get front roller in track at relief cut for roller which is marked by tape in the picture.