The Old Yeller Resurrection Project

[RedRider]

Still working on an issue with re-centering the proportioning valve, what a pain! Here's the link to my troubles:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=758471

Fortunately I've got some good helpers:

[RedRider]

Cleaning the gutters this weekend, clearing out all that old seam sealer. Went in with a light chisel and hammer to break-up the big pieces, then hit it with the wire wheel to clean out the rest.



I was thinking about sealing it up some of the surface rust with some POR-15, it looks like others have done that. Then seam sealer and paint?

[RedRider]

Engine is running rough at idle and when I rev the throttle, like it has a miss somewhere. I’ve checked timing and compression, new plugs/wires, (almost) new carb and intake.

I went to look for a new cap/rotor for the HEI, which runs around $30. I found a COMPLETE distributor assembly on Amazon for $45...no brainer.

[rjs53]

I bought the summit brand hei, I think it’s made by msd. The only thing is they don’t use the dielectric grease for insulation and can cause parts to burn up. Just something you might want to check.

[RedRider]

Big day today! Finally got the engine and brake issues ironed out and backed her out of the driveway! She sounds great, ready for some new exhaust before the paint and bodywork begins.

[RedRider]

Here she is after a quick one-over with the power washer.

8 months ago, same spot minus trailer:


Still need to iron out some bugs before I drive over to the exhaust shop:
1) Power steering was touchy, wondering if I should just top it off or try flushing it.
2) Some of the lights don't work, gonna start investigation at the dimmer switch.
3) Engine still running a bit rough, hoping a full tank of fresh gas will help.
4) Might try some lower fender braces, seeing as my drivers side broke.

[RedRider]

The foot dimmer switch tested bad so I took it apart and cleaned the terminals:



Works fine now.

[rjs53]

Way to go! I’m kinda the same, like to fix what I have if it’s worth it. And I like keeping as much of the original truck as possible.

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by rjs53

Way to go! I’m kinda the same, like to fix what I have if it’s worth it. And I like keeping as much of the original truck as possible.

Truth! Our fridge broke this week and my wife immediately wanted to buy a new one. I told her, "Give me an hour, and if I can't fix then we can look for a new one". Turns out the compressor was caked in dust and dirt, and with a little help from an air compressor and shop vac, the fridge is now back in business.

[RedRider]

Her maiden voyage into town for 10 gallons and a can of Seafoam:

[rjs53]

Truck looks good! Seafome does wonders

[RedRider]

During the test drive I noticed some rubbing at full-turn on the front passenger side tire. It appeared the tire weight was scraping, but on what I wasn't sure:



...when I pulled the tire yesterday, it appears like it was hitting the lower control arm:



My first impression was wow! that's sure cutting it close. My second thought was to grind down the control arm but maybe I'll wait for an alignment (later this week).

[RedRider]

I was dreading alignment day, especially since I had cut the frame in half. No surprise the alignment was waaaayy off, but it looks like the SWB conversion didn't affect much:




To make things even more interesting, the truck quit on me coming home. The fuel filter was full of brown grime, which was drying out the carb. I spent an hour parked on a side-street and finally got her fired back up.
Looks like I'm going to have to pull the gas tank, as there's just too much crud in there. Do they still boil gas tanks at radiator shops?

[RedRider]

Took my fuel tank down to the radiator/tank shop yesterday, had a tough choice to make:

1) Have old tank cleaned, leak check and re-sealed: $275

2) Buy new tank ($200 shipped from RockAuto) + have radiator shop seal it: $320

I decided to salvage the old tank. This may come back and bite me but it was in pretty good shape. Plus there's something to be said about salvaging existing parts.

[duke10]

I don't need the bedsides but the bed trim would sure match well on my new C20.
Let me know if you want to sell those pieces. I am in Point Loma.
Thanks

[RedRider]

Got the cleaned tank back:



Had to buy a new sending unit since the old one had rusted down to nothing:



Also bought a new starter from Autozone today. It works great, but I'm REALLY bummed that the starter tone is different now. Lots of memories associated with the sound of the original starter, they should really warn you about that difference.

[RedRider]

Now that Old Yeller has been road-worthy for a few weeks now, it's become apparent that there's a rear main seal leak that's needs attention. This throws a wrench into my plans, as I don't have the tools or space for such a project. Some ideas:

1) GM crate engines run around $2k-$2.5k and have a 24 month/50,000 mile warranty: steel crank, roller cam, and a one-piece rear main. Add another $1k for removal and installation.

2) I found a reputable Machine shop that will remove, rebuild and install for $3k. This includes mangnaflux, machine work, new pistons, rings, bearings, pumps, valve grind, etc. They have a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty for engines installed in-house (2 year/24,000 for customer installed).

3) I could just do the rear main seal for $600 but it's been 20+ years since the last rebuild and has sat for 10 of those years...might be a time bomb.

I'm leaning towards option #2 since the engine seems to be in otherwise good shape, although dumping $3k into a 50 year old motor sounds risky. My thought is that if they mangnaflux the block and heads then that might be a worthwhile gamble. There's something to be said about keeping the original engine too. Then again, a crate motor is a hassle free option that you just drop in and go, but I won't be able to pick out my own cam or do any other custom changes.

Any thoughts out there? Any other options I should consider?

[cjohns]

# 2 no question !!

[RedRider]

....Then there's option #4: LS swap. I found a killer deal on a 2008 6.0 w/tranny under 40k miles.

Things just got real, stay tuned.

[rjs53]

Option #2, put the motor in yourself it’s not rocket science, and put the other grand towards the odds n ends for the crate

[Rickysnickers]

Option 4 looks pretty promising, no?

[t300]

#4. cheapest bang for the buck, reliable, easy starts, just get in the truck and drive. I'd never go back. I sold my smallblock and trans for a pizza and 6 of beer. beer was cold.

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Option 4 looks pretty promising, no?

Yep, pulled the trigger and brought home the tranny today.



It's a 4L60E out of a 2004 Silverado with 40k miles. Next trip will be for the 5.3L accompanying it.

I had NO clue about LS swaps prior to this weekend. Needless to say there's a TON of information out there to brush-up on. Thank god for the internet.

So if you know anyone in town that needs a complete and running 350/TH350 setup, let me know!

[Rickysnickers]

Nice!

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by RedRider

I had NO clue about LS swaps prior to this weekend. Needless to say there's a TON of information out there to brush-up on. Thank god for the internet.

There's a sub forum on here that has all the info you should ever need. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...play.php?f=206 If you're getting an '04 engine, it would be best if you could get the harness, PCM, TAC module and gas pedal all out of the same truck too to cut down on mismatch component problems.