292 Questions

[RichardJ]

>> The shaft is not long enough to put a spacer on to line it up with the other pulleys. <<

A Google search for a "Double Groove Alternator Pulley" for 10DN or 10Si will produce a dozen companies selling them. The bracket under your alternator usually has an opening larger than the thickness of the Alt. A spacer is used to fill the extra space and is placed to move the Alt forward.
Check and see what you have for a lower bracket before you start messing with spacers and double pulleys.


>>and caused gas to leak out around the fuel inlet.<<

If that large fuel nut is leaking, loose that stupid filter. If you can get that large nut to stop leaking, never take it off again. Use an inline filter before the carb or before the fuel pump and never be troubled by that 1" filter again.

[May70]

Yes ive looked on lmc and they just have the open type I currently have. Classic industries has this which is the same as the parts store here, made by mrgasket.com but it is too large both for the hole in my valve cover and the ID is about 1" where my valve that fits into that grommet is .5" diameter.

I have also seen 'plug' type grommets which are meant to just plug off the holes. I thought about maybe drilling a hole in the bottom but i dont think that will serve the function I need too well.

Is it a safe option to delete the pcv and plug the manifold, just putting a breather in place of the grommet to let the pressure vent from the valve cover?

[May70]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

>> The shaft is not long enough to put a spacer on to line it up with the other pulleys. <<

A Google search for a "Double Groove Alternator Pulley" for 10DN or 10Si will produce a dozen companies selling them. The bracket under your alternator usually has an opening larger than the thickness of the Alt. A spacer is used to fill the extra space and is placed to move the Alt forward.
Check and see what you have for a lower bracket before you start messing with spacers and double pulleys.


>>and caused gas to leak out around the fuel inlet.<<

If that large fuel nut is leaking, loose that stupid filter. If you can get that large nut to stop leaking, never take it off again. Use an inline filter before the carb or before the fuel pump and never be troubled by that 1" filter again.

The bracket does not adjust on the bottom and the opening is just big enough to get the alternator into. I did quite a few searches online for double pulleys, I found one double that might work for about $40 and I was still concerned that it would not fit on the new alternator and a lockwasher/nut. It seemed most descriptions didnt have too much info in regards to measurements. I picked my old alternator up today.

I did take out the little paper filter, just another thing to deal with.

[Steeveedee]

Short term it would let the blow-by out and you could see if the system was allowing oil into the engine. Just know that the engine is calibrated for the amount of air that flows through the PCV valve, and that that "controlled air leak" won't be present. And the inside of the engine would eventually coke up from the vapors that don't get drawn off. Another feature of the PCV system is that any moisture that is a by product of combustion when the engine is warming up will also not be drawn out of the crankcase. Maybe a good short-term solution would be to run a longer hose on the PCV that goes up and over the air cleaner snorkel. The engine (I think) shouldn't be able to pull raw oil that high. Some people also use a catch-can between the PCV valve and the carburetor, to collect the oil.

[May70]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I have an extra 292 and some .040 pistons , also a fresh 292 sitting here if you need another 292 to build ? I know they are getting harder to find around here .Also a spare 250 and an extra L6 head .

Grumpy old man, Can you post another picture of the valve cover on your second 292 with the chrome oil cap breather and chrome (pcv?) rear input. I cannot see what you have on it too well in the pic. Thanks

[May70]

Okay, I just realized upon looking at the filter that is in the intake breather (goes to the valve cover from the intake breather) was completely clogged up with gunk. I did a temp fix, removing the old filter material and put in a scotch-brite pad cut in half.

I think with that pathway breathable now and I could put one of those breather fill caps like Grumpy Old Man has on one of his 292 pics and that may help solve the issue. I think one of those caps would keep the pressure/heat down a little as not to aid in oil getting up through pcv tube. Thoughts?

As far as solving the problem with a baffle I also found this tube baffle that may work, but as usual no one has measurements on their spec page.... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...2074/overview/

[May70]

Ill also add in that I was finally able to get the old alternator pulley off with about a can of pb blaster, puller and the vice.... Picked up another alternator, used different spacers and it fit. So at least that is (hopefully) done.

I went ahead and opened up the old alternator and saw the regulator (I think) was broke. Glad i replaced it.

[May70]

So my carb leak is not coming from the fuel inlet. It looks like it is leaking from these two arms that come through the bottom of the bowl. Not sure why. I will have to take it apart again tomorrow night. I took it apart today and did not see anything.

[Steeveedee]

Check your float level. It's probably too high, or maybe the needle and seat aren't sealing. Do you have a brass or a composition float? Those control the accelerator pump and metering rod. Neither of them are in the float bowl where they penetrate the carburetor, so fuel has to be spilling over.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by May70

Grumpy old man, Can you post another picture of the valve cover on your second 292 with the chrome oil cap breather and chrome (pcv?) rear input. I cannot see what you have on it too well in the pic. Thanks

These were part of a junk yard haul , One came off of a 67 - 250 Chevelle and the other came off a 67-250 Biscayne . I picked them up for the Chevrolet stamp on top and they don't have the pcv hose on the side that always leaks . The chrome vented cap and pcv parts came from Autozone . I have another valve cover without the stamping and matching air cleaner If you decide to go that way and can list them in the parts section if needed .

[Mike_The_Grad]

If you find yourself taking the carb apart again, check that the float isnt full of fuel. You can shake it to feel any sloshing inside. Also submerging it in hot water will show any pinhole leaks in the floats soldered seam. Do you know what brand and where you got your rebuild kit from? I ask because some of the big parts store chains sell the rebuild kits that dont have the good accelerator pump plunger cup seals. If you spent less that $30 on a rebuild kit chances are it's the inferior type of seal. These dont hold up very well to the alcohol content of today's gas. Theres a few sites that sell the rebuild kits with viton seals. They usually run about $45. Also, some of the parts store rebuild kits dont come with specific instructions and specs. for the carb covered under the models listed for each kit.(they usually cover a range of model numbers.) So in order to get the carb setup correctly I highly recommend getting a factory service manual for your year truck. Theres a guy on here that has linked in his signature digital copies of them. I downloaded them to my phones internal memory so I can access them any time I want. I also bought paper copies through Amazon. They are a huge help for practically any question you can think up. It will have what the factory recommended settings are for your carb,,engine, timing, etc. The factory specs. are almost always gonna be correct for setting up your carburetor, unless you've got something custom (dual carbs,4 barrel on your i6,etc.) Between the FSM and this site I've been able to solve about 99% of any issue I've ever had with our trucks. Google has that up to 99.5% the other .5% comes from friends I've made around where I live. Hit the Search bar for your year truck with FAQ behind it up top, it's like finding the Honey Hole of info.

www.carburetion.com just type in the carb model number you have and more than likely these guys have more than just a quality rebuild kit for your carb. (Floats, pull offs,linkages, idle/air screws,etc.)

[May70]

I bought a new float with the kit. I bought the kit and float from quadrajetparts.com which I had read was pretty reputable. I think for everything it was about 50$ or 60$. I emailed them and confirmed which kit I needed and everything was an exact fit. The kit came with a larger jet and needle than what I had before. The needle that came with it did not want to seat well, but even after I put the old jet and needle in the carb its still leaking. It runs but its very rough at idle and a lot of sputter when I give it pedal.

It leaked a few times from the top hole also, I assume thats the over flow? Tomorrow I will try putting the old float in it but other than that im not sure what to do. I think it may only leak when pump the gas but I am not 100%.

[May70]

Thats the hole

[Mike_The_Grad]

Quadrajetparts is awesome. I forgot about those guys ever since I found out my q-jet 4mv had cracked venturi boosters and had to swap it out for a edlebrock 1406. I miss my q-jet
"Some" of the aftermarket floats arent very well made. Seems like they skimp on the solder in the brass floats. It sounds to me like you just dont have your float adjusted properly. Or your accelerator pump is misadjusted(if that's even possible on these single barrel carbs.) Another thing I'm unsure of in these carbs is if there are 2 springs for the accelerator pump stem. A tension spring and a return spring. On the 4 barrel q jets they are like this and can cause issues if you get them mixed up. They look similar enough alike for it to happen.
The metering rod and jet are not meant to be a completely sealed fit, unlike the needle and seat that are in carbs. The float is meant to control the amount of fuel in the float bowl and this is accomplished by enabling the needle to seat in the seat and shutting off fuel flow until the float registers a low fuel level which draws the needle off the seat allowing more fuel to enter the float bowl. If you dont have the float set to the correct level, you will be flooding the float bowl. A low float level may not be exerting enough pressure on the needle in the seat and a high float level allows to much fuel into the float bowl and will overflow.
How many turns out from seated do you have the idle/air screw? It should be at least 1 1/2 but may need as many as 4 complete turns out to idle correctly. A vacuum gauge is the best way to determine where the screw should be during idle.
The metering rod is always down inside the jet's orifice except when engine vacuum is low enough for the spring tension on the metering rod to overcome the vacuum of the engine, allowing the metering rod to raise up out of the jet( it doesnt raise out of the jet completly.) Effectively allowing more fuel to enter the jets orifice and onto being atomized into the intake manifold.

[May70]

Adjusted float height to a little more than 1/4 inch down. Runs but stutters out if you give it gas. I am surprised how low this is going. The adjustment sheet calls for 1/4. Ill adjust it some more and see how its doing.

edit..

Idle adjustment is 1.5 turns out. What should I look for as far as vacuum goes? I just bought a vacuum gauge the other day so I can check.

I took this carb off 4 or 5 times again adjusting from 1/4 inch down to now 9/16 (i think this is way too low but I have no experience). Each time it would let me give it a little bit more gas before sputtering out. Even now it is still no where near drivable. Whats goin on?

[Grumpy old man]

Put the float back where the instructions tell you . reset the mixture to 2 turns out , Start the engine and set the fast idle screw (temporarily) to a fast idle with the choke fully open , slowly adjust mixture out until engine begins to stumble then slowly turn back in a 1/4 turn or to when it smooths out . re adjust fast idle screw and that should get you close .

Remember don't rev it too hard 292's don't like that

[May70]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Put the float back where the instructions tell you . reset the mixture to 2 turns out , Start the engine and set the fast idle screw (temporarily) to a fast idle with the choke fully open , slowly adjust mixture out until engine begins to stumble then slowly turn back in a 1/4 turn or to when it smooths out . re adjust fast idle screw and that should get you close .

Remember don't rev it too hard 292's don't like that

Back out the screw as in CCW back out? There isn't much noticeable stutter until I basically have the screw out completely.

Im not putting the pedal on the floorboard, im talking enough gas to get going out of the driveway.

I have the fast idle cam set on fast idle (it has the autochoke on the manifold).

Just checked the vacuum, there is none. Checked my gauge so I know its working.

[Grumpy old man]

yes , CCW = backing it out = lefty loosey

CW = turning it in = righty tighty

turn the mixture screw IN CW until lightly seated , Then back it out 2 complete turns .

2 weeks ago you posted

" Once I get this all back together and it runs I will put new points/condenser and probably a cap on it. Recheck dwell after that."

Did you ever replace the points and set gap/dwell ?

[RichardJ]

>>Just checked the vacuum, there is none. Checked my gauge so I know its working.<<

You're using the wrong port. It is running, then you do have some manifold vacuum. Use the port you have that black plastic cap on, then toss that cap. You need a soft rubber cap for a good seal.

>>Idle adjustment is 1.5 turns out.<<

>>reset the mixture to 2 turns out ,<<

Idle mixture screw #turns out, isn't a setting. It's simply a preliminary starting point used to get the engine running. It is after that you make the mixture adjustment to what the engine wants.

On a 1bbl carb it doesn't matter where the mixture screw starts from as long as the engine starts. With a 2bbl or 4bbl or two single carbs, you want the mixture screws to be matched at least preliminarily. After that you try to keep them as balanced as best they will allow.

After the engine starts, hopefully the mixture screws are good enough to adjust the idle speed screw to 700 or below. All else being close, above 700 the throttle blade will be open far enough it will start pulling fuel from the transition slots, above the idle port in the bore. You can't adjust the idle mixture screw properly when rpm's are above idle speed and the transition slots are providing extra fuel.

The same goes for the timing. Most stock distributors start adding timing above the base timing in the 700-800 range. You want to set base timing without the mechanical advance adding any timing.
Where do you set the timing? Good question that you can answer after you drive it. Start with 10-12* and reset idle to 700 or below, then adjust the carb mixture.
Set timing with vacuum advance hose pinched closed or removed from dist and plugged.

>>There isn't much noticeable stutter until I basically have the screw out completely.<<

OK, start with that, although I would have expected the engine to die before that. Hope you don't have a vacuum leak.
With vacuum gauge and tach connected, start turning the mixture screw IN. Turn 1/2 turn at a time and let idle stabilize for a second each time. If idle goes above 700, reduce with speed screw. You're looking for the point where the tach shows a sudden and drastic drop in rpm. Take it back to the top of that last 1/2 turn drop off. Add an extra 1/2 turn CCW. It is in this area that you should also be seeing highest vacuum reading.
my 292 likes 650rpm. Below 600 I can see oil pressure drop slightly, so I stay above that.

Drive it. If it pings under load, you will need to retard the timing a couple degrees. If it doesn't ping, you can try and add a couple degrees to base. Trial and error. Always check engine rpm after timing change. I don't remember what distributor you have, If you have a points dist, make sure dwell is correct BEFORE setting timing. DON'T GUESS.

[May70]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

yes , CCW = backing it out = lefty loosey

CW = turning it in = righty tighty

turn the mixture screw IN CW until lightly seated , Then back it out 2 complete turns .

2 weeks ago you posted

" Once I get this all back together and it runs I will put new points/condenser and probably a cap on it. Recheck dwell after that."

Did you ever replace the points and set gap/dwell ?

No my plan was to put the carb kit in and make sure that every thing went well before adding in too many variables (areas i could screw up). Before I did the carb work it would run, gas without stutter but smoke you out.

[Mike_The_Grad]

If there is a fitting on the intake manifold that is capped or has a small line running to some other area of the truck use that port to hook your gauge up to. A normal reading for a 4 stroke combustion engine would be 16"-21" Hg. But a lower reading does not necessarily indicate a bad setup. Like if you have an aftermarket camshaft your engine might only idle at 10-12" Hg. But this is unlikely in your situation. If you got your gauge at China Freight like I did, the gauge has info printed right on the gauge face that suggests things that possibly could be what's going on with the engine depending on what area of the gauge the needle is pointing to. You can google "vacuum gauge reading" to get an idea of what the needle is doing while you take your reading and what it indicates based on that.

['68OrangeSunshine]

My 292 usually runs 17'' Hg, at 700 RPM idle, 180* H2O (warmed up). It goes higher if I'm downshifting, and drops to 0 if I step on the gas.
A couple of times I've spotted valve trouble early when the needle bounced at 10''Hg at idle. It was a broken exhaust valve spring.
I run a Moon 2-3/8'' gauge under the dash full time.

[May70]

Okay, I think I have the carb in a decent spot. Havent driven it yet but it seems to be much better. Thanks for the clarification on that.

Today I replaced the points, condenser, rotor and cap. My manual says used gap needs to be .016 and new .019. I set it the first time at .019 and was getting 22 degrees of dwell. I know the manual calls for 31-34. So 22 degrees would put the gap too far apart correct?

Reason why I ask is because I dropped the gap down to .017 and it didnt change at all, still reading 22 degrees. Do I have to plug the vacuum port while reading dwell? Anyone got some pointers for me in this area? I would have thought I would have seen a good change dropping it down. Trying to get the dwell right then deal with timing. Thanks!

[May70]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Yes, cap the Vac line when dialing the timing in. I pull the Vac line hose off the carb and plug it with a golf tee.
Setting a points gap at .019 is just a starting point, it is not a cosmic etherial number that must be kept for the alchemy to work. We're not trying to trasmute pig dung into gold here, just adjust an old technology machine. So once you have the initial point gap, loosen the distributor lock nut and rotate the cap until you get the desired 31 - 34* of Dwell. You may have to close the points gap.

How does changing the timing effect the dwell angle? If dwell angle is exclusively the measure in degrees the points are closed then I dont understand how timing (via rotating the distributor) would impact the amount of degrees around the distributor cam/the degrees of the points being closed. I thought the only way to change dwell is to change point gap, but point gap (dwell) does change timing. I may be confused?

I went back and found a thread actually that you started (Going back to Points -- L6 292) and you said you dropped your gap to .010 to get a good dwell. I did the same and got 33 degrees, since I have new points I believe ill have to readjust due to the new pad wearing breaking in. So i think we are good there.

I reset the timing to about 12 degrees advance.

Now I am able to get it going maybe about 5 mph and it wants to give out if I give it anymore gas, starts studdering like its going to die and if I let off the gas pedal it comes back to a steady idle. Its getting too much gas at this point? Is it at this point i would adjust the fast idle? and leave the idle screw alone? This is obviously the first experience with a truck carb.

A lot less smoke BTW

[RichardJ]

>>Setting a points gap at .019 is just a starting point,<<

Not really.
A real gap of .019" should give a dwell of 31*, but the problem is that many people don't have a good sense of feel to actually get .019". It takes a soft tough and a perfectly straight alignment with the feeler gauge to get the right gap.
The movable point arm has a spring with only about 16 oz of pressure and can easily be pushed out of the way by the feeler gauge. This results in a narrower gap than you think you have and higher dwell reading.
It's best to use a feeler set that can be taken apart and use the single .019 strip.

>>pull the Vac line hose off the carb and plug it with a golf tee.<<

it is hard to stick a golf "T" into a metal vacuum port. Remove the hose from the vacuum canister and stick the "T" in the hose to stop any vacuum leak. If the carb is close to being adjusted correctly, there won't be any vacuum from a Ported Vacuum port, but it's best to plug it anyway.