Ptjsk '72 Jimmy Build

[Ptjsk]

Paint is nice! Lot's of work, but the rewards are real!

Pat

[Ol Blue K20]

Looking good.

[Ptjsk]

Damn.....Removed both rocker panels only to find more damage than I thought it would be.

Looks like I have a bit of work ahead.

Pat

[Ptjsk]

Remaining pics.

[Ptjsk]

It is coming along nicely.

Final fitting on the rockers.

Pat

[jimbosprint]

Excellent build. Bummer about the hidden rust, but it looks like you are taking good care of fixing it right. At the rate you are going you will probably be on the trail before my 4x4 project gets started.

[7D2N]

Nice build Pat, I think all these old blazers have rust, would you mind sharing where you got the replacement rockers. I have fought mine all the way.

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by jimbosprint

Excellent build. Bummer about the hidden rust, but it looks like you are taking good care of fixing it right. At the rate you are going you will probably be on the trail before my 4x4 project gets started.

I don't know, this has taken me longer than I anticipated (as usual), but I'm getting closer. It started out as just a simple motor rebuild. Of course that went into the transmission, front and rear axles, and takes off from there! Project creep! I did finish the rockers today, and replaced small patches behind the rear tires. So now, I should be back to finishing the AC unit and move onto assembling the front fenders and such.

Originally Posted by 7D2N

Nice build Pat, I think all these old blazers have rust, would you mind sharing where you got the replacement rockers. I have fought mine all the way.

Thanks for the comment. I'm with you and your thoughts that all of these old Blazers/Jimmy's have hidden rust. Fortunately, I think I was able to capture it all.

Kind of crazy how it happened, but I ended up using two different manufacturers for the rockers.

On the passenger side, I utilized GMC Paul's for the part. On the drivers side, I contacted Summit and utilized the manufacturer of AMD (Auto Metal Direct).

I did have to message and splice both of the pieces, but I think the one from Paul's was a tad bit easier. But that's not really saying much, as both of them worked out pretty darn good.

The reason I went with Summit on the drivers side was the fact that I was unsure I was going to replace that one. When I did finally decide to move forward, I wanted it as soon as possible. I'm definitely glad I did as I found problems underneath of that side too. Anyway, I went with Summit simply due to the fact that shipping was much cheaper, and I was able to obtain it the very next day. If you order at least $100.00 dollars worth of items, shipping is free of charge. So I just ordered items that I know I was going to need totaling just over $100.00.

The two pieces that were rusted completely out (at the bottom of the "A" pillars), were ordered from Orange Trucks. You can see in the pics that I spliced them in just under the bottom hinges. Definitely not the same quality as being built by GM, but it was still pretty easy to make them work.

I did shave/cut down the edge where the inner rocker, the structural box, and the outer rocker all meet. I only removed about an 1/8" of an inch but it made a huge difference on my ability to obtain the proper gap along the bottom of my doors. I also used a 4" x 6" block, and a bottle jack to help push it up and hold it in place while I welded it. I pulled the inside edge into the door with the use of wide jawed vice grips. You can see it in my pic when I was test fitting.

I'm definitely no expert at all with metal replacement, but what problems are you running into?

Pat

[7D2N]

I had to massage them also. I had to relief cut spots so the rocker would fit in the right spot at the kick panel. The stamping wasn't very good with rounded edges where they attach at the A-pillar in the door opening.

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by 7D2N

I had to massage them also. I had to relief cut spots so the rocker would fit in the right spot at the kick panel. The stamping wasn't very good with rounded edges where they attach at the A-pillar in the door opening.

Yes, just about the same things. I don't think any of the edges are anywhere near as sharp as the originals. Unfortunately, we don't have too many choices.

Pat

[Ptjsk]

Finally completed!

Coated both the inside and outside of the rocker boxes too. They were in great condition, so I wanted to be sure to preserve them.

[Ptjsk]

Fenders on and grill in place!

Trailering it down for exhaust next week.

Finally narrowing it down to the final few items.

Pat

[DeadheadNM]

Nice work

[Ptjsk]

Another day closer!

Finished front grill. Trim ring around the lights. Installed turn signals, clearance lights, front trim along the bottom and bumper installed.

[Ptjsk]

Sitting all on it's own now. Actually fired up, but literally let it run for only 5 seconds or so.

Loading up on the trailer tomorrow and taking it for mufflers and complete exhaust.

Pat

[jimbosprint]

Looks great on the ground. Perfect lift and tire combo.

[raggedjim]

Nice work! Could have been worse on the rocker panel removal, my jimmy needed lots more work than yours!

Good luck, Rg

[Ptjsk]

Thanks for the comments again guys.

Got it running, and it sounds incredibly well.

Ready for it's first run soon!

Pat

[Tom Vogel]

Originally Posted by Ptjsk

Fenders on and grill in place!

Trailering it down for exhaust next week.

Finally narrowing it down to the final few items.
Is that an original grill or repop?
Pat

Posted via Mobile Device

[DeadheadNM]

Nice work!

[Ptjsk]

Getting ready for carpet in the back passenger area. I've put Dynamat down on the floor. I'm thinking I should do the inside of the bed, and over the wheel wells as well.

Also, is this how GM built them, or did the original owner supply this weather sealant? Not the insulation. LOL!

Regardless, very happy how they have been preserved.

Pat

[Ptjsk]

And a few more from the other side.

Should I continue with the Dynamat on the wheel wells, and the inside of the bed area as well? Or do you guy's have other suggestions?

Thanks,

Pat

[DeadheadNM]

Good progress.

That sealant is not original. It’s on top of what appears to be factory paint. Wonder why?

Consider keeping the wheel wells free of carpet to keep that factory look, it’s not the norm these days but you can always add it later.

Do the bedsides have holes to accommodate double wall tops or are there just provisions for a single wall top?

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Good progress.

That sealant is not original. It’s on top of what appears to be factory paint. Wonder why?

Consider keeping the wheel wells free of carpet to keep that factory look, it’s not the norm these days but you can always add it later.

Do the bedsides have holes to accommodate double wall tops or are there just provisions for a single wall top?

I think the original owner went above and beyond with his attempts to preserve the truck. And for the most part, it appears to have worked very well.

The carpet kit I ordered came with wheel well covers. It looks like you're stating that they never did have carpet over the top of them? If that's the case, I will leave the carpet, as well as the dynamat off of the wheel wells.

The long panels are in serviceable shape. They're not perfect by any means, but I plan to use them as they are the originals.

Do you think I should put dynamat on the inside of the bed? I think I may leave insulation out of them.

Also, I really wouldn't know what to look for as far as mounts for a double wall top.

Thanks,

Pat

[DeadheadNM]

Correct, K5s left the factory without carpeted wheel wells.

Lining the bedsides with dynamat might not be a bad idea since your panels will cover these anyway. I used only factory style insulation and there is a lot of road noise inside.

The double wall tops make use of holes along the bed rail rather than the caged nuts you depict in the photos. Are there holes in your bed rails in addition to the caged nuts?