CPP Rear Disc Brakes not bleeding!!

[Jason Banks]

Seriously... did you replace the rubber line from frame to axel yet? I speak from experience....

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

Seriously... did you replace the rubber line from frame to axel yet? I speak from experience....

No, thats what i an going to try next.
I have been out of town, so i haven't had a chance yet.

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

Seriously... did you replace the rubber line from frame to axel yet? I speak from experience....

Just replaced the flex line. Now im able to bleed the back calipers, but still no brakes.

[Jason Banks]

What do you mean 'no brakes'?

[davischevy]

I put Cadillac disc brakes on the rear of my 55 Chevy.

I had to move the pushrod up 1" on the pedal to get brakes.

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

What do you mean 'no brakes'?

The calipers wont engage.
I bled the entire system again with my wifes help. The old 2 person pump method.
She said the pedal didnt go to the floor when bleeding the back.

So its not building pressure

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by davischevy

I put Cadillac disc brakes on the rear of my 55 Chevy.

I had to move the pushrod up 1" on the pedal to get brakes.

So you had to drill a new hole on the pedal?

[davischevy]

Originally Posted by Tx70Gmc

So you had to drill a new hole on the pedal?

Yes.

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by davischevy

Yes.

I am getting brake fluid from the hardline/flex line connection (before the new line being installed) when i press the pedal
So it makes me think the pedal location is correct.

[davischevy]

Originally Posted by Tx70Gmc

I am getting brake fluid from the hardline/flex line connection (before the new line being installed) when i press the pedal
So it makes me think the pedal location is correct.

I went through a similar experience as yours. I was about to remove the discs and throw them away. Try moving the rod. It's cheap and easy, and what have you got to lose.

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by davischevy

I went through a similar experience as yours. I was about to remove the discs and throw them away. Try moving the rod. It's cheap and easy, and what have you got to lose.

Yea ill try that. I already tried lowering the rod without success.

[Jason Banks]

Moving that rod is just going to increase or decrease pedal pressure required to stop.

Are you sure the valve is adjusted so that you are getting pressure to the rear? Maybe it's dialed all the way to the front?

[PbFut]

At this point I am inclined to think it is the proportion valve as well. Do you have a way of measuring the pressure? Line pressures can get pretty high. Well over 500lbs when you press with authority. It may be worth buying a brake pressure gauge. I have 1 on each circuit for the race car. It was very helpful with adjusting the bias initially but didn't use them much once I got the feel of the car and sorted what pads to use. Just get a cheepo brake gauge and set it up at the caliper. Then fiddle with the proportioning valve. I recall you having a manual type. If you are using the factory type button reset valve, I assume you have reset it.

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

Moving that rod is just going to increase or decrease pedal pressure required to stop.

Are you sure the valve is adjusted so that you are getting pressure to the rear? Maybe it's dialed all the way to the front?

I have adjusted it three different ways. All the way to the front, all the way to the back and right in the middle.

None of which worked.

[Jason Banks]

"She said the pedal didnt go to the floor when bleeding the back."

So, she pumped up the pedal a couple times and held it. You then loosened the bleeder. Right?

Did you get fluid out? Lots? little?

Did you then tighten the bleeder, without the pedal going down?

I'm pretty sure from your pictures, you have this right and with the parking brake I think it would be hard to mess up. Do you have the bleed screws UP on the caliper? They are not facing down? It would be calipers swapped side to side on the truck.

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

"She said the pedal didnt go to the floor when bleeding the back."

So, she pumped up the pedal a couple times and held it. You then loosened the bleeder. Right?

Did you get fluid out? Lots? little?

Did you then tighten the bleeder, without the pedal going down?

I'm pretty sure from your pictures, you have this right and with the parking brake I think it would be hard to mess up. Do you have the bleed screws UP on the caliper? They are not facing down? It would be calipers swapped side to side on the truck.

Yes the old pump 3 times and hold method then Release the bleeder and tighten bleeder then she pumps 3 more times, etc.

Bubbles came out out first, but then a steady fluid stream, just like its suppose to.

The bleeders are facing towards the front.

[Tx70Gmc]

Any ideas on how to attach a power bleeder to a willwood master cylinder?

[Joyridin]

If you are getting fluid at some decent pressure, is the pad contacting the rotor? With your foot off the brake, the pad should still be hitting the rotor a very small amount. Not actual drag on the rotor, but if you spin it, you can hear it hit.

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by Joyridin

If you are getting fluid at some decent pressure, is the pad contacting the rotor? With your foot off the brake, the pad should still be hitting the rotor a very small amount. Not actual drag on the rotor, but if you spin it, you can hear it hit.

Yes, but the problem is the pistons dont seem to move at all when the brake pedal is pushed.

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by Tx70Gmc

Any ideas on how to attach a power bleeder to a willwood master cylinder?

Any ideas???

[JEM Motorworks]

All the heart ache you have gone through, man I feel for you! I would figure out how to adapt a 2000 psi gauge to a rear caliper line and see what kind of pressures you are getting. This would at minimum tell you if you are getting any pressure to the rear. Then you can see if it’s a caliper problem or upstream.

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by JEM Motorworks

All the heart ache you have gone through, man I feel for you! I would figure out how to adapt a 2000 psi gauge to a rear caliper line and see what kind of pressures you are getting. This would at minimum tell you if you are getting any pressure to the rear. Then you can see if it’s a caliper problem or upstream.

I purchased a Motive power bleeder and was hoping that I could attach it to the wildwood master. The people that have felt the pedal and have seen it tell me it feels like I have air in the line. So I want to power bleed to help process of elimination.

[Joyridin]

Originally Posted by Tx70Gmc

I purchased a Motive power bleeder and was hoping that I could attach it to the wildwood master. The people that have felt the pedal and have seen it tell me it feels like I have air in the line. So I want to power bleed to help process of elimination.

I have worked on literally hundreds of brake systems on cars both OEM and aftermarket and never used a power bleeder.

At this stage, you might want to consider taking it to a shop.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Tx70Gmc

Yes the old pump 3 times and hold method then Release the bleeder and tighten bleeder then she pumps 3 more times, etc.

Bubbles came out out first, but then a steady fluid stream, just like its suppose to.

The bleeders are facing towards the front.

The bleeders should be on top of the caliper piston reservoirs, facing up to allow all the air escape and not be trapped in a higher location in the piston reservoirs. Do you have a pic of the calipers and bleeders? Also, I dont know where you got your bleeding method but it's wrong! The shop manual gives a clear detailed procedure. Your helper slowly depresses the pedal after you have opened the bleeder. Before the pedal reaches the bottom of the stroke, you close the bleeder. Then your helper slowly releases the pedal. You can bleed your brakes by yourself with a glass quart jar and a section of 1/8" or 3/16" approximately 24" inches long. You simply attach one end of the tubing to the bleeder barb, it must fit tightly, and the other end of the tubing in the jar filled 1/3rd full of brake fluid. The end of the tubing must be be submerged in the brake fluid. Open the bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 turn and make sure the reservoirs in the MC are filled. Now press the pedal slowly down and release it slowly, do this about 3 times and check the level of fluid in the MC reservoirs. Fill as needed and check the fluid in the hose at the bleeder and jar. When no air bubbles are no longer seen in the (clear) tubing, your done, tighten the bleeder and move to the left rear caliper. Follow the same procedure...Never mind that power bleeder because your just going to complicate your problems with it. You may need to take your calipers off the mounts (one at a time) and either rotate them on the rotor where the bleeder is up at the highest point where air bubbles would gather and have your helper pump the pedal while you hold the caliper on the rotor. The open bleeder with tubing attached and jar must be in place before pumping the pedal. Maybe using a piece of scrap steel the same thickness as the rotors placed between the pads will allow you to remove the caliper and hold it in a position with the bleeder up. The scrap steel is only to hold the pads at the correct width so you can reattach them to the rotor. I think those calipers are possibly positioned wrong not allowing all the air to escape. Again, a picture of the caliper and bleeder would be helpful. Take that power bleeder back and get one of these, this will allow you to reverse bleed your system by pumping fresh fluid right into the calipers and right on into the lines pushing air out at the MC reservoirs. You'll need a turkey baster to draw fluid out as you refill the system from the rear forward. https://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Syste...2-8997e41410bb Here's a very good video depicting the correct procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOF4vhblUvw

[72c20customcamper]

I was just rereading this thread . Yours are positioned just like mine on my Chevelle . And just realized that when I bleed my rears I had to remove the front bolt and spin the caliper up I put a piece of plate steel in between the pads . As the bleeder is below the top of caliper . The bleeder needs to point straight up .

I copied your picture . If you look at it it’s pretty clear the bleeder is about midline in relation to the piston .

After I did the one I rotated the bracket so the bleeders point straight up so in the future I didn’t have a problem