Got some new wheels: Boss 338's in 20x10 and 20x8.5

[brossow]

Originally Posted by gmt400

I ordered some 20x8s/20x10s in chrome from one of our wheel suppliers at work and I was assured my set would be here very soon I was told I would be getting the first set that hit their wharehouse(I wonder how many people he told that). Told me to give them about a week we'll see.....

Your supplier is full of crap. No one knows when the 20x8.5s will ship, not even Eagle. "About a week" is such a standard line they should have t-shirts printed.

[Fastest32]

I ordered some staggered chrome 20's at leas three months ago and they told me it would be about two weeks. My two rear wheels showed up yesterday with no mention o the fronts.

[brossow]

Couldn't get in my front door today. Boxes were blocking the way. Teaser below, more pics here.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by Fastest32

I ordered some staggered chrome 20's at leas three months ago and they told me it would be about two weeks. My two rear wheels showed up yesterday with no mention o the fronts.

20x8.5 are still in production with no ETA.

[brossow]

[Also posted in the Group Buy thread]

Might be some disappointed 338 fans out there. Just decided I should check the new hub bore and compare it with my front hubs (assuming the 20x8.5 will have the same bore as the 20x10). Here are the results from my digital caliper:

New 338 hub bore on the front side of rim: 2.682" (68 mm)

Stock hub outside diameter: 2.835" (72 mm)

So it looks like even after all this waiting I'm still gonna get to do some grinding on the hubs to get the fronts to fit. That's really super-duper-uncool, even if it's only 2 mm all around. I thought these had been reworked to fit properly.

(No, I haven't tried test-fitting yet. The chassis is still buried under a pile of parts from winter storage.)

Brent

[fast 95]

Measure the hub bore of the back side of the wheel, you hub wont protrude through the front of the wheel. Form the pic of the lable it said the rear bore is 82.80mm, and you hub measured 72mm.


EDIT: this is a pic of my front wheel lable and it too says 82.80mm back bore.

[Sublvr72]

Originally Posted by brossow

[Also posted in the Group Buy thread]

Might be some disappointed 338 fans out there. Just decided I should check the new hub bore and compare it with my front hubs (assuming the 20x8.5 will have the same bore as the 20x10). Here are the results from my digital caliper:

New 338 hub bore on the front side of rim: 2.682" (68 mm)

Stock hub outside diameter: 2.835" (72 mm)

So it looks like even after all this waiting I'm still gonna get to do some grinding on the hubs to get the fronts to fit. That's really super-duper-uncool, even if it's only 2 mm all around. I thought these had been reworked to fit properly.

(No, I haven't tried test-fitting yet. The chassis is still buried under a pile of parts from winter storage.)

Brent

That's correct, still gonna need spacers or to grind the hub a few mm

[brossow]

Originally Posted by fast 95

Measure the hub bore of the back side of the wheel, you hub wont protrude through the front of the wheel. Form the pic of the lable it said the rear bore is 82.80mm, and you hub measured 72mm.

They've been 82.8 mm for the back bore since they first came out. It's the front bore area that's causing interference. I probably shouldn't have posted anything until I actually tried to bolt a wheel onto the hub. Not sure how far into the wheel the hub protrudes, but I'm assuming it's almost all the way due to the dust cap interference issues. I'll get some more pics this weekend and if I get really ambitious I can try to get the chassis cleared off enough to try mounting one of these up.

Better yet, I might drag a rim to AutoZone and see if they'll pull a stock HD rotor for me to test-fit. That'd be a helluva lot easier than trying to get at the chassis. I think I'll go throw a rim in the back of my car right now.

Brent

[6D8_C10]

Originally Posted by brossow

Better yet, I might drag a rim to AutoZone and see if they'll pull a stock HD rotor for me to test-fit. That'd be a helluva lot easier than trying to get at the chassis. I think I'll go throw a rim in the back of my car right now.
Brent

Please let us know. That would suck if, all this threads lead to having to modify the hub or put in a spacer anyway!

[k5hart]

Originally Posted by 6D8_C10

Please let us know. That would suck if, all this threads lead to having to modify the hub or put in a spacer anyway!

That would kind of suck. What are they using as a reference?? I don't get it.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by brossow

Better yet, I might drag a rim to AutoZone and see if they'll pull a stock HD rotor for me to test-fit. That'd be a helluva lot easier than trying to get at the chassis. I think I'll go throw a rim in the back of my car right now.

Just got back from AutoZone. BAD NEWS. The stock rotor does not fit into the -3 rim. I forgot to bring my caliper to measure, but from what others have reported it seems to be the same issue as with the old revision, bottoming out about 1/4" short of sitting flush. Honest to God, what the did they change in this revision?!

I'm going to be making a call to the regional AEW office tomorrow and let them know what's up. It's not the regional manager's fault they effed it up, but at least he can pass it up the chain.

Unbe-effing-lievable.

Brent

[lolife99]

brossow,...
I find that the aftermarket "parts house" rotors are more "squared off" than the original rotors.
Can you just grind the "square edge" by the dust cap,... or does the snout of the rotor need to be machined?

[brossow]

Originally Posted by lolife99

brossow,...
I find that the aftermarket "parts house" rotors are more "squared off" than the original rotors.
Can you just grind the "square edge" by the dust cap,... or does the snout of the rotor need to be machined?

I'm not sure, to be honest. I got there shortly before closing time and my primary goal was just to see if they fit or not. I'll worry more about details when my fronts eventually show up. In the meantime, I picked up some cheap 1/4" spacers on eBay tonight to cover my bases that way. If I don't like the spacers for some reason or if it really does look like some very simple grinding would do the trick, there are obviously other ways to skin this cat. Just frustrating that all the waiting was seemingly for nothing.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by brossow

I'm not sure, to be honest. I got there shortly before closing time and my primary goal was just to see if they fit or not. I'll worry more about details when my fronts eventually show up. In the meantime, I picked up some cheap 1/4" spacers on eBay tonight to cover my bases that way. If I don't like the spacers for some reason or if it really does look like some very simple grinding would do the trick, there are obviously other ways to skin this cat. Just frustrating that all the waiting was seemingly for nothing.

I was afraid this would happen.

[nlped]

Originally Posted by nlped

The most recent conversation I had with the B'ham, Al. warehouse is that the new design still doesn't quite fit over the 1.25" rotor, but it's very close they say, like 1/16". That would be easy enough to remedy. This was a set of 20" ones, while I am STILL waiting on my 18x8" ones for the front

These rotors were o.e., and they didn't quite fit either.

[Sydwayz]

Originally Posted by Blitz

Nice looking Tahoe Sydwayz! Any more pics of it with the new shoes? I love how clean and mean the black Tahoes look all hunkered down. Makes me kinda wish I had one.

Not yet. I have not finished all the stuff I want to do with it yet.

I changed to DJM spindles from the BT spindles that were on it when I bought it. (I also raised the whole truck.) The DJMs bring the wheels back in to the stock track, and I was not about to use spacers to push them back out. We milled the rotors.

[chevy_mike]

I guess it's too hard for someone at AEW to go to the parts store and get a HD rotor and test fit them to see what the real problem is....

Kind of glad I didn't jump in on this as this is unacceptable for a 3rd revision, IMHO.

Good luck all...

[brossow]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

I guess it's too hard for someone at AEW to go to the parts store and get a HD rotor and test fit them to see what the real problem is....

I agree. That's simply inexplicable.

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

Kind of glad I didn't jump in on this as this is unacceptable for a 3rd revision, IMHO.

Can't agree with all of this. It's unacceptable for sure, but for the price it's not a deal-breaker. You'll never find a set of USA-made wheels that look this good for this price that are perfect for our trucks in every way. A little grinding is a small price to pay, IMHO. Am I disappointed that they aren't a bolt-on as most of us had expected? Of course! But it's not enough to make me send them back.

Brent

[Sydwayz]

Updated pics:

[Sydwayz]

I have a 5th matching wheel and tire mounted in the truck; including the knock off. I also adapted the knock offs to fit over the bearing buddies on the trailer.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by Sydwayz

I have a 5th matching wheel and tire mounted in the truck; including the knock off. I also adapted the knock offs to fit over the bearing buddies on the trailer.

Love the stance, love the wheels, hate the knockoffs. Not a criticism or slam, just personal taste. I can't stand a 3-spoke knockoff (especially a fake one) on a 5-spoke wheel. Looks damn good overall regardless!

[Sydwayz]

Originally Posted by brossow

Love the stance, love the wheels, hate the knockoffs. Not a criticism or slam, just personal taste. I can't stand a 3-spoke knockoff (especially a fake one) on a 5-spoke wheel. Looks damn good overall regardless!

Thanks.

Back in the day you either had Cragar SS Mags or Keystone Classics. I had SS Mags WITH knock-offs on my 1983 Monte Carlo/T-Top/Landau (rare).

This truck is a mash up of some of my favorite previous rides. Hence the knock-offs. I have the original caps for when I want a change. I am running black lug nuts as such you can't see them at all. It makes the knock-offs look a little more authentic.

[nlped]

Well, I finally just figured out a way to make the dang wheels work on my '76. I bought the McGaughy 13" Front brake kit, and the front hub is considerably smaller in diameter & height and works with my series 2 (ones I bought last summer) 18" 338's... I had to have spindles and brakes anyway, so I didn't actually spend but just a bit more and now I have bigger, cross drilled rotors w/ dual piston calipers and I can fit my "new" wheels without spacers, machining, or any other crap.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by nlped

Well, I finally just figured out a way to make the dang wheels work on my '76. I bought the McGaughy 13" Front brake kit, and the front hub is considerably smaller in diameter & height and works with my series 2 (ones I bought last summer) 18" 338's... I had to have spindles and brakes anyway, so I didn't actually spend but just a bit more and now I have bigger, cross drilled rotors w/ dual piston calipers and I can fit my "new" wheels without spacers, machining, or any other crap.

The CPP big brake kit works as well.....

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by nlped

Well, I finally just figured out a way to make the dang wheels work on my '76. I bought the McGaughy 13" Front brake kit, and the front hub is considerably smaller in diameter & height and works with my series 2 (ones I bought last summer) 18" 338's... I had to have spindles and brakes anyway, so I didn't actually spend but just a bit more and now I have bigger, cross drilled rotors w/ dual piston calipers and I can fit my "new" wheels without spacers, machining, or any other crap.

Or the OEM 1" rotors will work with the -2 version wheels,... for people who want to spend less money.