Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[dug224]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Is your cap a vented cap?

Definitely not. It has a nice tight rubber O-ring. I was reading info on the Trailblazer and found out that the factory gas cap has an integral vent. Also, the factory venting and pressure stuff down at the tank may not be operational. I may have inadvertently taken it out when I followed the LS un-pinning routine. I do have a few wires to still connect so maybe some of that will come to life if/when I get to it. I suspect most of the hot rods that use the LS are not using late model gas tanks with associated late model plumbing. I'll probably start by adding a small vent under the fender just below my filler neck. Not sure what I'm looking for but I suspect somebody makes one. Do you remember what you used and where you installed it? thanks

[mongocanfly]

My 81 had the vent on the sending unit...all it is, is a extra barb with 4in hose and breather cap..similar to one of those axle vents...on the IH all it had is a vented cap,but I was worried about kickback when filling with gas ,so I added a vent tube with rollover protection next to the sender..I'm gonna run a hose about 3-4ft long and I've got a vent cap for it as well

[dug224]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

My 81 had the vent on the sending unit...all it is, is a extra barb with 4in hose and breather cap..similar to one of those axle vents...on the IH all it had is a vented cap,but I was worried about kickback when filling with gas ,so I added a vent tube with rollover protection next to the sender..I'm gonna run a hose about 3-4ft long and I've got a vent cap for it as well

Nice unit. Thanks for the input. I've pretty much confirmed that my problem is lack of vent. I'll be looking into your approach soon.

[dsraven]

the trailblazer/envoy fuel tank has several high spots in it and comes with a vent at each of those spots. you coild repurpose the stock canister those connect to or you could simply tie them all together into a single,larger, vent tube with some sort of filter on the end to stop dirt/debris from getting in. pretty easy to hook up the stock system if you want to re-use it so the system vents like it was designed. easy to do it the other way as well just keep the end of the vent tube higher than the tank so it doesn't purge raw fuel out after a fill on a hot day and then start to siphon fuel once the purge has started the siphon process. take the vent line up high then turn it down to keep moisture out and place a vent cap on the end, like found on a large truck differential or the like. some come with a short u shaped hose which could work on the end of the line to keep moisture out.

https://www.raneystruckparts.com/fre...r-kit-kit2902/

[dsraven]

another option is to use a fuel filter on the end of the vent hose. a small engine fuel filter would prolly work with the open end pointing down. some guys will use these on the axles of 4x4 trucks and hide the filter behind a tail light or somewhere like that where it stays reasonably dry and splash/car wash spray free.

[dsraven]

also, without a proper vent, those high spots in the tank will likely not fill when you fill the tank. they need to vent air out to let fuel in and let air in to let fuel pump out to the engine.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

the trailblazer/envoy fuel tank has several high spots in it and comes with a vent at each of those spots. you coild repurpose the stock canister those connect to or you could simply tie them all together into a single,larger, vent tube with some sort of filter on the end to stop dirt/debris from getting in. pretty easy to hook up the stock system if you want to re-use it so the system vents like it was designed. easy to do it the other way as well just keep the end of the vent tube higher than the tank so it doesn't purge raw fuel out after a fill on a hot day and then start to siphon fuel once the purge has started the siphon process. take the vent line up high then turn it down to keep moisture out and place a vent cap on the end, like found on a large truck differential or the like. some come with a short u shaped hose which could work on the end of the line to keep moisture out.

https://www.raneystruckparts.com/fre...r-kit-kit2902/

I'll take a stab and understanding and then using the stock unit since I can get to it if I get the truck high enough. That Freightliner part is nice and definitely fits my low budget build philosophy!!. thanks

[dug224]

Oooops! Hauling the family in the bed to the pool and did not anticipate the change in bed elevation. Straightened it out best I could. The bends give it that antique used look.

[the1ted]

Hey!

[dug224]

Originally Posted by the1ted

Hey!

Ted Zeppelin!! Sent you a few messages to make sure you are still with us!! Hope all is well. How's your project coming along? dug

[dug224]

As I attempt to find an affordable AC system, I continue to fill in with the little stuff. Somehow ended up with a pretty nice engine cover. Not sure where it came from but I got it mounted. Barry's U Pull It provided the front studs that the cover clips over and the rear plate (barely in the photo at the top) that grabs the back of the cover. I had to fabricate a small plate on which to mount the studs since this cover was definitely not meant for this engine. The cover cleaned the messy engine right up. I ended up with about 1/2" of clearance between the cover and hood structure. I need to work on moving the eye sore yellow filter down somewhere on the passenger side. I'll wait until I get the AC in since there's a lot of AC/Heat stuff going on in the area.

[jaws61]

For the wipers you can you a chevy 2000 or 90ish blazer rear wiper works, its what i used on my truck and if you check on youtube someones got a video of it working. Worked great on my truck but takes some playing...

[dug224]

Originally Posted by jaws61

For the wipers you can you a chevy 2000 or 90ish blazer rear wiper works, its what i used on my truck and if you check on youtube someones got a video of it working. Worked great on my truck but takes some playing...

Thanks! I wished I had run across this earlier. The first thing I did when I decided to attempt using a rear wiper motor was to grab one out a late model Trailblazer. Unfortunately, it has a 180 degree sweep and it apparently uses electronics from the T. B. BCM (body control module) to reverse the direction of the motor....which I didn't have. Here's the link to this guys YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJCN20p4jhM

Looks like a pretty straight forward mod and the sweep looks just about right. I'll be grabbing a fresh one when the time comes. Brand new on Ebay $40.

[mongocanfly]

looks good dug...ive been thinking about that on mine as well....it had a headliner in it tht was like a cheap plastic tablecloth glued to the roof...when I get it redone I'm thinking some insulation barrier is in order

[dug224]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

looks good dug...ive been thinking about that on mine as well....it had a headliner in it tht was like a cheap plastic tablecloth glued to the roof...when I get it redone I'm thinking some insulation barrier is in order

Do it. It took me all of about 15 minutes to install. Just got back from a cruise. Left in it in a parking lot with the sun shining on it while we ate. The temperature of the freshly insulated panel, as expected, is dramatically cooler than the surrounding double wall sheet metal. The floor and firewall are next since they are getting the brunt of the heat off of the engine.

[dug224]

Decided to work on stopping some of the radiant heat transfer between exhaust pipe and passenger side floor. Purchased some 14" x 10' aluminum roof flashing and bent up a 4' shape to fit over the exhaust pipe. On my exhaust there is a cross over pipe that brings driver side exhaust to passenger side where it turns towards the back then combines just before the factory Trailblazer muffler flange. I ran the heat shield over most of the horizontal pipe and stopped just before the muffler. Welded up and riveted a couple of brackets to the shield and used hose clamps to attached to the pipe. The exhaust pipe (w/ engine running) under the heat shield was about 300 degrees F. On top of the shield it was about 100 F. Cab floor was about 90 F. Success! There is a bit of a rattle at certain rpm's so I'll have to add a stiffener to quiet it down. Part of the muffler is under the cab so I may have to tackle it as well.

I ordered some "foil one side recycled denim" insulation that I will be installing in the cab next. I'm still undecided about whether or not to add KilMat sound deadener since I sprayed both sides of my floor and 1/2 of the firewall with Raptor Bed liner.



Front of the shield just below the O2 sensor.

[rgunlock]

Sounds like success. Hard to tell from the picture, but how much air gap do you figure you have between the shield and the cab floor?

[dug224]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Sounds like success. Hard to tell from the picture, but how much air gap do you figure you have between the shield and the cab floor?

The front bracket is 1" tall so I have a 1" air gap up front. To clear the rear flange at the muffler, I made the rear one 2" tall so my air gap goes from 1" to 2". Took another road trip to test again measuring temps inside of the cab on passenger side. Anywhere the floor was protected by the shield, the floor temp was 110 F. Ambient yesterday was about 95 F. In a small area (say 10' x 10") of the floor behind the vertical exhaust pipe (O2 sensor) that is not shielded, the floor was 125 F. The rattle ended up being pretty bad throughout most all engine speeds. Basically, the top of the shield was like a drum. To correct, I bent up a small 1/2" x 2" x 1/2" x 48" "C-channel" using the same flashing material. I then ran it the entire length with the shield through my brackets with the "C" facing down. Sorry, no photo. Between the shield and the "C" channel, I installed a 2" layer of exhaust pipe wrap (because I had it available) and riveted it all together. All quiet now...

[Purcell69]

Man that is coming along nicely!

-Joe

[dug224]

Originally Posted by Purcell69

Man that is coming along nicely!

-Joe

Thanks Joe....it's been a long and mostly enjoyable adventure.

[dug224]

Still working away at getting the AC/Heat in. Mocking up the refrigeration line routes. Got the bulkhead fitting installed in what appears to be the only place it could have gone. A little close to the back edge of the inner fender but it will have to do. You guys that chose to have the AHU in hand early and were able to establish the bulkhead fitting location when the cab was off definitely did he right thing. Still living and learning. Ended up mounting the filter/dryer near the radiator overflow tank since the fittings are all pretty long and I ran out of room to make any decent turns.

Final fitment of the condenser lines.


Inside of firewall where fittings come through. Had to drill and remove a small threaded plate (rusty place between the two lower holes) that I left in place from the factory. Because the bulkhead fitting is not mounted on a flat surface, I ran out of threads and had to shorten the nut on the #10 90 degree refrig fitting so the O-ring would seat.


Final routing with bulkhead fittings loosely in place. I've since moved the HW shutoff valve and heater hoses closest to the engine.

[the1ted]

Three Dug Night-e-mail me plz. tedzeppelin@live.com

[dug224]

Originally Posted by the1ted

Three Dug Night-e-mail me plz. tedzeppelin@live.com

ted...done...dug

[dug224]

So far, real happy with the Southern Rods AC system. Excellent customer service. Had a crack in the fan housing from shipping and a poorly machined fitting in the bulkhead assembly. They replaced them immediately. All but two hoses are complete. Fortunately, I was able to borrow a crimper from a fellow truck guy. Saved a bunch of time and money. I finally found a guy that could TIG the new #8 and #10 fittings onto the factory compressor manifold. All I have left to do is mount it to the compressor, route the last two lines, run the vacuum pump and give it a 134a charge. I left all the wiring long so I have room to relocate things when it comes time to do the center console project. I backed the truck out and ran the heat today. No leaks and plenty of heat especially on a 99 degree F day in Lower Alabama!!! I ended up installing the heater valve that is controlled by the AC/Heat control panel in the engine compartment. Simply could not find enough room in the cab for it and end up with decent turns. Actually worked out better.




There's just about only one way these fittings could be welded onto the manifold and still have all the lines fit. I'll post a photo tomorrow with it in place.


Honda minibikes keep finding me. While at the welding shop, the guy mentioned this '74 Honda Elsinore 50 was for sale and his nephew wanted $100 for it. It's a two stroke. Never even knew they made them. Had to buy it!! I'll send this one on its way as-is since I am supposed to be focusing on the new house.

[dsraven]

a buddy of mine had an elsinore 125 growing up. great little 2 stroker.
good to see forward progress on the truck. I'm sure the a/c will be appreciated in your temps. how do you find your tire sizes as far as gear ration and land speed/rpm? I am thinking of going with 235/60r17 (28.1" tall tire) tires with a 3.73 diff ratio. curious how yours worked out for speed vs rpm at highway cruising speed.