1977 Chevy C10 known as SharkBite

[rollin thunder]

Jealous of the progress man! haha Good to see things are moving and ofcourse the headaches that come with it.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by rollin thunder

Jealous of the progress man! haha Good to see things are moving and ofcourse the headaches that come with it.

thanks man! Yeah I've come to learn to live with the headaches just trying to get a truck of it's age to a good runner is going to come with plently of headaches etc so I know when it runs it's going to be a monster so anxious to see what happens.

[chevybuilder18]

Originally Posted by 77ChevySharkBite

Also I think we found the heart and soul to the issue of this truck not running right ever! you can't see the bottom but if you look at the timing chain the top gear you can see a little tiny circle that's there well for y'all that may not know that's supposed to be lined up with the bottom gear well that's not exactly how that's working the bottom cam sprocket gear is lined up correctly, so being that the top gear was 180 degrees off I think it's safe to say I have found the issue with the truck.

i said whoa! thats messed up, but then i seen someones reply reminded me the cam sprocket is 2 to one ratio

[chevybuilder18]

Originally Posted by 77ChevySharkBite

Okay, then if that's not the issue what would be my issue? Not sure if you had read it all but my truck was timed at 0 advance which it idled fine but wasn't exactly drivable. We've verified tdc, made sure the rotor was where it's supposed to be, what could be causing this hiccup?

it could be a vacuum leak, manifold air leak. could be rocker arm specs..

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by chevybuilder18

i said whoa! thats messed up, but then i seen someones reply reminded me the cam sprocket is 2 to one ratio

Yeah I didn't know that myself until someone told me and sent me to an article to read it

Originally Posted by chevybuilder18

it could be a vacuum leak, manifold air leak. could be rocker arm specs..

my money is that it's the balancer part of the reason I bought a new one, so this weekend going to put it on and then if that's not it going to troubleshoot from there. I think the odds are looking toward the balancer though.

[77ChevySharkBite]

here's some more detailed pictures of the balancer, you can see where the PO marked and on the new balancer it's roughly at 30degreees advance.

[rollin thunder]

Was looking back through the build everything is looking real good. And thats a nice new balancer you got there. I hope thats what the issue turns out to be.

[67 c10 guy]

I also believe it could be the balancers fault since a worn balancer outer portion can spin and throw off timing when trying to adjust but it never hurts to replace all other possible worn timing parts

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by rollin thunder

Was looking back through the build everything is looking real good. And thats a nice new balancer you got there. I hope thats what the issue turns out to be.

Thanks man! I appreciate it the compliment! Getting ready to hopefully solve all this timing stuff it's stressful.

[rollin thunder]

I know it. It once took me 3 weeks to figure out all the issues with the timing and get it situated on a 49 ford flathead v8. although it only turned out that a broken distributor cap clip and clamp down at the bottom every time the motor started it kicked the dist out and way out of time. yup i was one cool customer through whole deal

[Jabes1]

The factory balancer doesn't look like its slipped in comparison to your new balancer. Look at the keyway on both balancers and the timing mark of 0 degrees on both balancers. They are the same. How are you timing your engine?

[Ron S.]

i like the look of those rims

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by Jabes1

The factory balancer doesn't look like its slipped in comparison to your new balancer. Look at the keyway on both balancers and the timing mark of 0 degrees on both balancers. They are the same. How are you timing your engine?

I borrowed a friends timing light and that what I'm using to time the motor sorry for the late response.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by Ron S.

i like the look of those rims

Thanks man, there MB Motorsports Razor I believe is the name of them I got them from discount tire.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by rollin thunder

I know it. It once took me 3 weeks to figure out all the issues with the timing and get it situated on a 49 ford flathead v8. although it only turned out that a broken distributor cap clip and clamp down at the bottom every time the motor started it kicked the dist out and way out of time. yup i was one cool customer through whole deal

Haha yeah I feel like a cool custom right now especially knowing the way it runs has been mostly correct but hey it makes for a learning experience.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Okay fellas I know it's late but here's some videos for y'all to try and assist me if possible.

First one will be at 8 degrees advance not sure if you can hear it audible through video but sounds a little like its stumbling. I am doing like a power brake since I'm not driving it.

Chevy 350 timing issues - YouTube

2nd video is at excatly 0 degrees timing and doing again a power brake and it doesn't seem like it skips a beat.

Chevy 350 Timing Issues - YouTube

3rd video is to show y'all exactly how much throttle I'm putting into it.

Chevy 350 timing issues - YouTube

Is there anyway y'all can help and give me advice on whether it needs to be timed differently and I'm also adding in a picture of what the #1 plug looks like just for help as well.

I do owe a big thanks for 67 c10 guy for coming over and helping me work on the truck and get everything set up good as new.


Here's pictures of the install from today enjoy guys

[Jabes1]

I'm not sure what procedure you are using to time your truck...
1. Warm the truck up to operating temp.

2. Pull your vacuum advance hose from the carb and plug the port on the carb.

3. Utilizing a timing light, see what you have the timing set at. (If you set the timing with the vacuum advance hooked up to the carb you are running your timing super retarded.)

4. Loosen the distributor clamp. Advance the timing 12 to 14 degrees initial. (I ran mine at 14 degrees advanced initial, so once you hook up your vacuum advance canister you will have about 26-30 degrees of advance/ ignition lead at idle.)

5. Tighten down the distributor clamp, recheck your timing and reconnect your vacuum advance canister.

You can also recurve your HEI distributor, which will wake up your truck. I used the lightest springs in the kit and my advance was all in by 2000 RPM. Its personal preference for you as well as if your engine will tolerate it. Some people like these kits, some don't. I guess I just want to see you get your truck running so you can start to make some real progress. Your plugs indicate you are running rich. You could safely jet down your carb, but that's a whole other story.... Good luck, hope this helps tremendously!!!

[Jabes1]

Originally Posted by 77ChevySharkBite

Well it looks like new throttle cable it'll have to be. Here's the pictures from today

Looking at your carb install and the way you mounted the cable to the carb concerns me. You should not need a shorter cable. Edelbrocks/Carter's are pretty much a direct swap. That plastic piece that covers the cable behind the sleeve that mounts to the throttle lever can be troublesome and jam things up. You can remove that plastic safely.

The cable should not be bolted to the throttle lever so that it is forced to be in a fixed position. The ball at the end of the bolt your using is supposed to be a pivot point for the linkage so that it has freedom of movement. Your throttle cable is supposed to snap onto that ball. I suspect this is part of the problem. The big hole where you have your return spring is where the throttle cable is supposed to go. Next... If I were you I would find another place to put that throttle return spring, it looks like an accident waiting to happen as in it popping off due to the amount of stretch you're putting on it. Also with the truck shut off, take off the air cleaner, look down the carb while having a buddy press all the way down on the gas pedal, verify that the gas pedal is opening the butterflies all the way.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by Jabes1

I'm not sure what procedure you are using to time your truck...
1. Warm the truck up to operating temp.

2. Pull your vacuum advance hose from the carb and plug the port on the carb.

3. Utilizing a timing light, see what you have the timing set at. (If you set the timing with the vacuum advance hooked up to the carb you are running your timing super retarded.)

4. Loosen the distributor clamp. Advance the timing 12 to 14 degrees initial. (I ran mine at 14 degrees advanced initial, so once you hook up your vacuum advance canister you will have about 26-30 degrees of advance/ ignition lead at idle.)

5. Tighten down the distributor clamp, recheck your timing and reconnect your vacuum advance canister.

You can also recurve your HEI distributor, which will wake up your truck. I used the lightest springs in the kit and my advance was all in by 2000 RPM. Its personal preference for you as well as if your engine will tolerate it. Some people like these kits, some don't. I guess I just want to see you get your truck running so you can start to make some real progress. Your plugs indicate you are running rich. You could safely jet down your carb, but that's a whole other story.... Good luck, hope this helps tremendously!!!

Thanks Jabes!

I always before I messed with timing got the truck to operating temp before I did anything.

On revurving my HEI I think I might wait on that, just for the simple fact I really would like to get the truck running as "flawless" as can be and then I'll tinker with other parts as well.

We left the cord on that carb port but had it plugged so does that matter? Also should I/we have plugged the vacuum advance canister? Or is that fine to stay unplugged?

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by Jabes1

Looking at your carb install and the way you mounted the cable to the carb concerns me. You should not need a shorter cable. Edelbrocks/Carter's are pretty much a direct swap. That plastic piece that covers the cable behind the sleeve that mounts to the throttle lever can be troublesome and jam things up. You can remove that plastic safely.

The cable should not be bolted to the throttle lever so that it is forced to be in a fixed position. The ball at the end of the bolt your using is supposed to be a pivot point for the linkage so that it has freedom of movement. Your throttle cable is supposed to snap onto that ball. I suspect this is part of the problem. The big hole where you have your return spring is where the throttle cable is supposed to go. Next... If I were you I would find another place to put that throttle return spring, it looks like an accident waiting to happen as in it popping off due to the amount of stretch you're putting on it. Also with the truck shut off, take off the air cleaner, look down the carb while having a buddy press all the way down on the gas pedal, verify that the gas pedal is opening the butterflies all the way.

Yes I thought it was going to be a direct swap myself but on the intakes ended up comparing them the original intake manifold just sits about an 1' further forward which the cable would of been fine.

As far as the throttle cable goes I'm not saying I'm right about it, but it does have free movement I haven't had any issues with it thus far it's hard to see maybe but it does indeed have a clip at the end to allow free movement. As the throttle return spring yes I'm not happy about where it's at I do plan on moving it to give it a more safer location once I get all of this figured out. Alright I'll have to check it out.

Thanks for the helpful advice I greatly appreciate it!

[knomadd]

I just watched the videos you posted and I can't really hear anything wrong with it on either video. I do notice your idle rpm sounds higher on the 0 degree video. If you're thinking the engine sounds like it's not running right because of the different engine speeds, try adjusting your idle speed to about 800-1000 RPM in park or neutral at any timing setup. Tap the throttle a couple times to make sure it seats and recheck timing and idle RPM. When you put the truck in gear, it should be idling around 600-800 RPM (higher if it doesn't like to run that low, but usually just under 1000 RPM).

If your idle RPM is different with the different timing setups, you won't really be able to tell which runs better. If Idle is too low, the engine will sound like it wants to die.

Hopefully I'm not missing something in the videos your trying to get us to hear.

[77ChevySharkBite]

I'm not sure if you watched but the 3rd video is just to tell me pushing down the gas and it's at 8 degrees advance, maybe I'll have to retake some videos and get closer to the exhaust and carb, but is it just me or does it sound like it has a sputter?

[knomadd]

I watched all three videos. I can hear the lope of the cam, but I don't notice a sputter or stumble. Maybe I just can't hear it in the video. I'm at work so I can't turn it up really loud.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Yeah it's all good no worries Duane, my only issue still what seems odd to be is that at 0 timing it turns over fine but now I will admit that on 8 degrees advance it's not as bad still takes about half a crank to start but not horrible like it once was so maybe I should kick it to about 6 degrees advance?

[knomadd]

Without being there and seeing exactly what's going on myself, I can't give you an honest opinion on what you "should" do. All I can say is set it where you think it runs best. If you notice small issues when its running/driving/starting/shutting off, then you may tweak it some more until you get it just right. If timing isn't fixing the issues, then it might be something more.