Project: Slow Build

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Kenneth_CS87

Do you have a number or a site for them?

Here you go! http://www.sandersonheaders.com/

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[roj2323]

when you moc'ed up the fenders and front grill did you have anything under them to hold them up or did your tip and flip hold it up without anything?

i'm curious as it would be a conviant way to do hood hinge mods among other things without the frame in the way.
ondrew

[Kenneth_CS87]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Here you go! http://www.sandersonheaders.com/

Kevin
LFD Inc.

How much did the headers run you?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Kenneth_CS87

How much did the headers run you?

I do not remember! It was about 6-7yrs ago that they were made! But in the ball park of 4-600

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by roj2323

when you moc'ed up the fenders and front grill did you have anything under them to hold them up or did your tip and flip hold it up without anything?

i'm curious as it would be a conviant way to do hood hinge mods among other things without the frame in the way.
ondrew

Yes and no. It will hold it up but when you tilt it forward it gets real light in the back end. I placed a jack stand under the radiator support to keep it all steady. But you are right it makes it so much easier to do all the mock up this way. You can sit under the hood and mark and measure it all.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[RamThis]

Man that is awesome. I envy you and the shop/equipment you have and your skills. I would kill to have the equipment to do what you're doing. Someday..... someday.

I want to see this thing done, it's just freakin awesome is all I can think to say lol.

[Rokcrln]

29* out this morning But I wanted to get the bed back on the frame because starting Monday I will be blowing project lemon drop apart and I needed the cab dolly. Only problem I had was since my truck is so low I had to put the rear on stands to get the engine hoist under my tank and trailing arms. Now it is all leved out I can start to build the final mounts for the bed. I raised the bed floor up 6" and stepped teh rear frame 2" then body dropped it 2" as well so my mounts are all messed up. I did this about 6-7yrs ago and I had the frame cut into 4 sections on my garage floor so I was worried about it not being flat or square but it turns out the rear of my bed is only 3/16" different side to side The rear SS 35gal tank is sitting flat on the frame lip and will come up another 1 3/8" for final placement and this will be 2" above my lic plate so it should work out just right. I might build a teflon skid plate for it just to be safe.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Kenneth_CS87]

Damn Its looking good. How much would you charge me too raise my floor bed?

[nandress]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I might build a teflon skid plate for it just to be safe.

I think Teflon would wear through with not a lot of scrapes (would slide easy though!!!). If you made a skid plate out of steel, you would have happy sparks!!

Another option you might consider would be phenolic (the stuff race car skid plates are made of). Aircraft Spruce carries it in sheets that can be cut with ordinary woodworking tools. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/me/phenolic.html

[roj2323]

wow. that's actuly one of the cleanest bed floor mods i've seen. it maintains the usefull ness of the bed "it is a truck after all" but allows the bad ass drop. kudos man. i'd seriously love to just watch you work for a week. i really think i'd learn alot.
thank you for the endless ideas and photos they really are a blessing to the board.
ondrew

[IvelDesigns]

the bed floor and stance look awesome!! I would be a bit worried about the gas tank though. It seems to be awful low, even if it's only that low when aired out.

what happens if you blow a bag while going down the high way??

[RamThis]

Phenolic will wear out just as fast as teflon, it's just fiberglass cloth and a special type of resin. We used to make mold-friendly scrapers from phenolic sheets when I built UAV Aircraft from carbon fiber. We made our own molds, vac formed the parts, and assembled the planes and test flew them. The phenolic worked great as a hand made scraper because it was hard enough to hold an edge to scrape off bits of resin on the mold surface, but soft enough it didnt scratch the mold.

If anything, I would use some 3" or so steel wheels for heavy work tables or such, make a couple brackets that had the wheels come down by each side of the tank near the rear, and have the wheel stop the truck from dropping when the tank has at least an inch of clearance from the ground. This gives a solid stop to the truck's drop, it wont wear out any time soon, and will protect the tank.

They could even be made to be easily removed with a couple heavy duty Category 1 tractor three point pins like our brush hog and other impliments are held on with. Like two studs sticking out from the frame. then have a plate about 1/2" thick with two holes in it and a couple thick spacers to stabilize the plate on the pins welded to the plate, and a pin or bolt to attach the wheel.

Then at show time they could be removed, but put back on for street driving just to protect your ass end.

Just a thought.....

[Rokcrln]

Thanks for the tank input but I think it will be fine. It will have 2" of clearance when a "bag blows" on the freeway right now but it is getting larger rear and front tires and that will add more room. I think my rears are 26" tall (335/35/17) and I will be going to a 29" tall tire shortly after getting it on the road so that will give me 3.5" Yes I know the teflon will wear fast but a 1/2" sheet will protect it from the rare small bump when cruising at full bump.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[68GMC454]

its looking good..glad to see you get some time on your own..now its time to go back to making money for your truck..funn how that works out isnt it...your doing a great job..

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by 68GMC454

its looking good..glad to see you get some time on your own..now its time to go back to making money for your truck..funn how that works out isnt it...your doing a great job..

Yeh time is rare for my own stuff. I think I have done more work on this truck in teh last month then in the last 3yrs or more!! When the owner of lemon drop could not get here until saturday to approve the fitment on his body panels I figured why not see what I can get done on mine. Now it is time to get back on his and get it ready for paint! I just bought a sweet SATA 3000 digital spray gun I can't wait to try out

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Here is a small update. No work has been done at all! But I have been buisy on the phone and I have all my exterior trim on it's way. I am going with a 68 look on my truck and it will have all the exterior trim that was available on these trucks. Full side lower molding, headlights and grill openings, front fender noisings and hood front edge, tailgate upper molding and hockey puck tail light surounds. Rear cab paint divider strip and front and rear window trim. I will also be going with chrome vent windows and the window scrapper felt with the trim if it is offered but have not ordered these parts yet. I also have the colors picked out, my insperation was John Fabris's truck below. He gave me the colors he used but when i was at San Leandro color I was going thru color books and found a different blue to go with that is a solid color with out metalic in it.
I also ordered a new EFI harness and computer from Painless it is their "Perfect system" for LT1's that should solve my computer/wiring problems I have been having for going on 6yrs now. That has been one of the main reasons my truck has not been completed sooner. I would get started on it and get to the point of wanting the motor fired up before tearing down the frame and it just would not start so I would get pissed and shove it back in the corner hopping it would fix it self Now it runs but still has quite a few problems that keep it from running right. Painless offered me a great deal on the "Perfect" set up and it should now be done!

So now with the new EFI set up comming I can finish up the frame and drivetrain. With the trim I can get all the holes drilled and ready for body work to start. Then paint and put it all together. I hope to get it done before July because that is when we are expecting our first child and I know after that it will be hard to find time for awhile.

So that is all that is going on here. To all of you that have been following my builds this year Thank You! It has helped me keep focused as much as I have been between by build and all the others so again Thank You!

I hope eveyone has a Great Christmas and a safe New Years!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[SCOTI]

TTT.... I love this one.

[jimmydean]

I agree, Scoti. I am waiting to see this rig DONE.

Kevin, I love the idea of full trim you're doing. With the Ralley wheels and full trim, this will be a sick blend of resto/custom.

[Rokcrln]

Well I finaly got around to putting the front end on for trial fitment. I cut out for the tire stuff clearance issue I had before and now with the tilt I have no problems. I do still want to go to a larger tire (27") then my 24"s right now. All I will have to do is trim just a bit more off the fender hinge area. Here are a few pics.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Yukon Jack]

Lookin' great - really like the tilt hood.

[Rokcrln]

Wow it has been awhile since this has been touched. I just took down the tent garage that the truck was in. I am having a new power service dropped and the meter is going right back behind were the tent was so no more garage for Slow Build But as I was moving things around to make room I decided to put a new batery in the truck and see what would happen. Last time I tried firing up the truck was right after I got the new computer and harness from painless, their Perfect system. It fired up but ran like **** and popped, spuddered and more. I was so pissed that I just shut the hood and that has been it untill yesterday. Like I said I put a new batery in and she fired right up but still ran bad. This time I left it running for a few minutes and she started getting better and beter. I guess the new computer just needed some run time But I got home today and I was working out in the shop and thought since it is over 100* out side it might be a good time to try out the cooling system. I just have a stock 71 radiator with duel 90's carero electric fans set to a relay that is controlled by the computer.

So I fired it up and keeped an eye on it because I have never had the fans pluged in and did not know if they would kick on or not. Well once it hit 190* the fans kicked on and for the next 35min at idle the temp never went over 195* So now I juess it just needs everything else and it will be ready for a road test!

Here's a few pics and the 70 has a 4.5/7 drop!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[72CSTC5]

Damn that BITC^ looks bad. Finish it for sure. It looks mean sitting so low

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by 72CSTC5

Damn that BITC^ looks bad. Finish it for sure. It looks mean sitting so low

Yep but shortly after it is done it will be sold to pay for some of the parts for my 2WD Blazer build!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[GREASEMONKEY72]

cant wait to see it done but hate to see it go

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by GREASEMONKEY72

cant wait to see it done but hate to see it go

Yeh I agree but it will be so worth it. I was sitting on the job at 2am this morning watching them stock sheetrock I started a list of mods and items that will be done on the 70 2WD Blazer. I have 7 full pages It will be about a 1500-3000 hour build at least but it will rock everything out their when it is done

Kevin
LFD Inc.