SiX-fo SuBuRbAn

[jonzcustomshop]

been busy with another project this week, but have the rear pretty much set, next is mounting the engine mount, then I get the body out of the way, mount the engine and trans/transfer case, then I will use the driveshaft out of a 87 swb pickup, that should set the wheelbase at 116-118, I will make up for the difference in length with a set of longer lwb wheel wells off a 60-66 fleet.

[Captainfab]

Any new progress Jon?

[jonzcustomshop]

hmmmm..... no, got lots of excuses, but it looks the same as that last pic for right now....

[jonzcustomshop]

little more progress, just about ready to start putting the new floor in...
just a little lower rust to fix on the body before the floor goes in.

"secret" vin # location on top of the lh frame rail.

[jonzcustomshop]

here are some shots of the sub/panel specific body mounts, and the rear frame rail difference where the bumper mounts.

[piratexpress1369a]

are you going to sand blast the frame

[lucifer]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

little more progress, just about ready to start putting the new floor in...
just a little lower rust to fix on the body before the floor goes in.

"secret" vin # location on top of the lh frame rail.

Yea I found the serial number on the left side of the frame as well as having a serial number on the right side frame?

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by piratexpress1369a

are you going to sand blast the frame

no it's not in that bad of shape, just gonna clean it up, and maybe put some por 15 on it

[piratexpress1369a]

por 15 good stuff for your neck of the woods

[jonzcustomshop]

yeah, if I was in a "rust belt" area, I would have to do alot more preventive mantinence!

[jonzcustomshop]

well, got the engine out and ready for a test fit, it is a 396 (66) that we picked up in a diesel 84 blazer.
It had a wierd knocking noise when we bought it, and we suspected that it was a broken flywheel since we have experience in that area, and after listening all over the engine we were pretty sure it wasn't internal.. check out the crack in the second photo! this is our 3rd with pretty much the exact same crack...

engine codes were this: back of the block: 3855961, with a sideways "P" under the 55, also behind the flywheel on the back of the block it says HI PERFORMANCE/TRUCK/CAR (maybe PASS-I forget now)
the block code on the front is: T III3IVR the vin is 6L138792

as far as I can figure it is a 66 396 325 hp with a rochester/auto, although it does have a pilot bushing in the crank-who knows what it was in before the blazer though...

any help on the decoding would be great.

my plan is to bolt the engine/trans-transfercase combo together, and set it in the frame, that should show me where the trans. crossmember needs to be bolted in, and then after that I will use the swb 73-87 4X4 driveshaft I have to determine where to bolt the rear springs to the frame.

*** with the 4 inch lift how much of the driveshaft yoke should I have showing out of the rear of the transfer case??-

[Captainfab]

Wow, it wouldn't have been long before the center of that flexplate just let loose of the rest.

Pretty much every passenger/light truck big block I have seen has the Hi-Perf/Pass cast into the block. It doesn't mean it is anything special.

I haven't found an IVR code yet. I did find the IV code which says '66-'68 325 HP 396 with auto trans, just like you said.

[jonzcustomshop]

I read on a chevelle website that the R, or an H would sometimes be stamped if it was going to have either a rochester, or a holley carb.

[jonzcustomshop]

pics maybe tomorrow, got the engine in, motor mounts sectioned, trans crossmember located and in, mocked the old cowl up to see about fitment issues with the bbc.

so this came up: I located the front axle centered in the wheelwells. I located the motor mounts exactly where my 63 4X4 sbc is.
there is a 4 inch lift.
the front driveshaft comes up short by about 3-4 inches....
this is the same shaft that was in the truck that had the 4 inch lift.

so were the motor to axle locations different 60-66, as compared to 73-87?
since everything seems to be in the right spot I guess I will have to have a longer driveshaft made...

[jonzcustomshop]

engine fit shots

[padresag]

looks good
ron

[Captainfab]

If you aren't past the point of no return, you could change to a short water pump, and slide the engine, trans and TC forward a little. That's what I did on my Suburban. I used the short water pump, and moved the engine forward 2".

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If you aren't past the point of no return, you could change to a short water pump, and slide the engine, trans and TC forward a little. That's what I did on my Suburban. I used the short water pump, and moved the engine forward 2".

I had thought about that, especially since there seems to be enough room betwen the rad and fan. , it was re-measuring and re-drilling 16 holes that slowed me down,
since I am doing a bunch of body work to the cowl and floor anyway, I decided to just relieve the firewall, like rocktonka did on thier sub.

here is a pic of what they did:

[duallyjams]

What length front & rear springs did you use also could you share some pics of the rear spring hangers.

[1963c-10]

My BBC book says that the casting # 3855961 was for 1966. Is a 396 and could have been either 325 or 360HP. According to chevy blueprints, it shows it to be a 2bolt block and is identical to casting #3855977 (366 truck) except for the passenger car deck heights, cylinder wall revisions and minor casting and machining. Does not have dowel pins for locating timing chain cover. Casting date on the right lower side near the freeze plug in front of the starter. Has the tall tower distributor casting boss. The code TIII3IVR is for the T=Tonawanda plant, III3=Nov 13 and the IVR is for the 396 w/TH400 pass car engine w/Rochester. Chevy often used the letter I in place of the #1. Serial # shows 6L138792 which is 6= 1966 L=Van Nuys, CA assembly plant and 138792 is the VIN

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by duallyjams

What length front & rear springs did you use also could you share some pics of the rear spring hangers.

I haven't mounted the back rear hangers yet, but did get the front mounted, and have a pic of that for the next post, I will have to measure the lengths for you, the rear are stock 88 3/4 ton 4X4 'burb, and the front are a 4 inch lift spring that (aftermarket) that I got off of the front of an 87 1/2 ton 4X4.

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

My BBC book says that the casting # 3855961 was for 1966. Is a 396 and could have been either 325 or 360HP. According to chevy blueprints, it shows it to be a 2bolt block and is identical to casting #3855977 (366 truck) except for the passenger car deck heights, cylinder wall revisions and minor casting and machining. Does not have dowel pins for locating timing chain cover. Casting date on the right lower side near the freeze plug in front of the starter. Has the tall tower distributor casting boss. The code TIII3IVR is for the Tonawanda plant, Nov 13 and the IVR is for the 396 w/TH400 pass car w/Rochester. Chevy often used the letter I in place of the #1. Still working on the serial #

thanks for this, that tIII3 was confusing me, I am thinking that the serial # will turn out to be an impala... if it turns out to be a chevelle the motor will probably be worth more than the whole project!

[jonzcustomshop]

got the rear springs mounted (started -lots more holes to drill-) wheelbase is going to be 117.5 which should work out because I plan on using the longer long fleet rear wheelwells.
the slip yoke has 1.5 inches showing, and 4.5 inserted, which I hope is not too much???

pic # 3 shows the rear shock, how do I figure out where the shock should be mounted?
these are the longer shocks that came with the 4 inch lifted truck, right now they are extended all the way, and the frame has no weight on it, I will be able to set them at a 25 degree angle, they were 30 degrees on the 88 sub...
do I just place them and punch a hole where they fit, or do I need to collapse them a bit , and then punch the mount hole?

[1963c-10]

No problem. Im pretty versed on the BBC and straight 6 (230, 250,292). Sounds funny, but I have never owned a SB. Always been big blocks or straight 6. Although did have a 48 roadmaster w/straight 8 when I was a kid. The nice thing about that casting #, is that it is one of the few 396 blocks that can be bored to a 427. So it is a desireable block either way. As far as I know, there is no way to tell by block alone if its corvette/impala/chevelle. If you know the heads are original(casting #'s), that may lend some help. Im no help on the suspension stuff though...sorry, but looking could.

[Captainfab]

On the shocks, you will want to mount them so that you have more compression than extension. It is a little bit of a guessing game when you don't have the total weight on the suspension. I would shoot for maybe 70/30 at ride height.

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

On the shocks, you will want to mount them so that you have more compression than extension. It is a little bit of a guessing game when you don't have the total weight on the suspension. I would shoot for maybe 70/30 at ride height.

thanks!, I can probably wait until the body is back on before I mount the rear shocks.

so did I read this right? compress the shock so that only30% of the arm showing, then locate the hole?
..or did I get it backwards?