Mike's 60 Suburban build

[mikesacs]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

been watching this...
on your rad support, did you just move the vertical bars over? Did you change the top or lower mount at all?

The vertical bars we moved outward to make the space needed. I made 2 brackets for the bottom that held the factory rubber pads. You can see them in the first picture at the bottom corner of the radiator. The upper brackets were made by modifying the 1990 radiator brackets to bolt to the top of the 1960 radiator support. These modified brackets also hold the 1990 rubber pads. I also welded the radiator cover to these brackets. This hides the top of the radiator and gives you a nice tool shelf. The radiator cover is bent down and back to make a mount for the electric fan. So, the radiator is still only supported by the rubber pads from the donor truck.

[jonzcustomshop]

thanks for the info, I have one that is getting a bbc/auto transplant, and was thinking that it would be cheaper if I could make the big 73-87 rad fit in there.
do you think with this rad mod that I would have space for 1 battery if I cut a spot for it in the rh inner fender well?

[mikesacs]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

thanks for the info, I have one that is getting a bbc/auto transplant, and was thinking that it would be cheaper if I could make the big 73-87 rad fit in there.
do you think with this rad mod that I would have space for 1 battery if I cut a spot for it in the rh inner fender well?

Yes, you could fit a battery in the right inner fender with modifications. I have my air filter and turbo in that area.

It is cheaper as long as you don't mind welding and grinding. I spent more time on the inner fenders and radiator support than the rest of the engine conversion.

[mikesacs]

Installed the rear dome light and wired both dome lights up. The suburbans did not come with a rear dome light, but I thought it would be a good add to have one in the rear. It is a stock dome light mount from a 60-66 cab.

I should get my engine back from the machine shop next week. So I've just been doing a few small things like this until then.

[mikesacs]

Just received my injection pump and injectors back from being rebuilt by American Diesel Service. They have very quick service. I hope to pick up my short block and heads tomorrow from the machine shop.

[piratexpress1369a]

now i understand its fuel injected ..i was blinded lol

[mikesacs]

Originally Posted by piratexpress1369a

now i understand its fuel injected ..i was blinded lol

Yes, diesel fuel injected.

When starting this project I wanted to get more than the typical 13ish MPG that I knew that I could build with a SBC. I wanted a burb that I wouldn't not drive because MPG sucked. I needed the power similar to a SBC, but am old enought to know I don't need a truck that can pull a track hoe through Colorado (or think I can). I read into low cubic inch SBC with turbo's and EFI and then looked at turbo 4 cyl diesels (4btswap.com) in either cummins or isuzu. I finally settled on the 6.2 with a Banks turbo with a 89 or newer block and 1 dot Riccardo combustion chambers and a 700r4.

The 6.2 was GMs answer to the 70's oil price problem. They made a fuel efficient diesel starting in 82. The sticker highway MPG was 23 MPG for a 1/2 ton truck. It got a bad rap because the early blocks were prone to crack at the main bearing web. GM reinforced that starting in 89. It also is often compared to other diesels which are built for power like the Cummins. The 6.2 was never ment to tow a 8,000 lbs motor home. Not a fair comparison. Just like the Cummins was never ment to get 23 MPG sticker. It was designed to compete with the small block chevy and nearly double the MPG of a small block chevy. GM dealers started offering Banks Turbo's installed on the 6.2 as a dealer option and GM even adopted the Banks in 93 (I think) for factory trucks. My research for a high MPG engine that could move this burb well and tow 4 to 5,000 lbs occasionally is why I chose this engine.

I know my burb is heavier than the 1/2 ton truck and probably has poorer aerodynamics, but my goal is to still get MPG in the low 20's.

[piratexpress1369a]

Originally Posted by mikesacs

Yes, diesel fuel injected.

When starting this project I wanted to get more than the typical 13ish MPG that I knew that I could build with a SBC. I wanted a burb that I wouldn't not drive because MPG sucked. I needed the power similar to a SBC, but am old enought to know I don't need a truck that can pull a track hoe through Colorado (or think I can). I read into low cubic inch SBC with turbo's and EFI and then looked at turbo 4 cyl diesels (4btswap.com) in either cummins or isuzu. I finally settled on the 6.2 with a Banks turbo with a 89 or newer block and 1 dot Riccardo combustion chambers and a 700r4.

The 6.2 was GMs answer to the 70's oil price problem. They made a fuel efficient diesel starting in 82. The sticker highway MPG was 23 MPG for a 1/2 ton truck. It got a bad rap because the early blocks were prone to crack at the main bearing web. GM reinforced that starting in 89. It also is often compared to other diesels which are built for power like the Cummins. The 6.2 was never ment to tow a 8,000 lbs motor home. Not a fair comparison. Just like the Cummins was never ment to get 23 MPG sticker. It was designed to compete with the small block chevy and nearly double the MPG of a small block chevy. GM dealers started offering Banks Turbo's installed on the 6.2 as a dealer option and GM even adopted the Banks in 93 (I think) for factory trucks. My research for a high MPG engine that could move this burb well and tow 4 to 5,000 lbs occasionally is why I chose this engine.

I know my burb is heavier than the 1/2 ton truck and probably has poorer aerodynamics, but my goal is to still get MPG in the low 20's.

cool .i would like to get a diesel also for my panel.

[mani]

Originally Posted by mikesacs

I'm now in for some more work. I locked the engine up. Took it out for a short drive to get some fuel and an oil cooler line cracked. Lost all my oil in about 5 miles and by the time I noticed the engine sounding odd, it died. Sadly the oil pressude gauge was not connected in the engine bay yet. I'm now serching for a remanufacured 6.2 engine. When I started this, I was debating on replaceing the engine since it had 175,000 miles on it. The decision has been made for me!

I did a similar to my I6 250 when I rebuilt it the second time. For me, as I was out burning in the rings on the initial full throttle top gear runs (I'd already broke in the cam earlier) I popped the rear freeze plug and dumped all the water. Since it was water and not anti-freeze, I never knew it (or smelt it) until the motor started to labor and buck. I got it stopped and it didn't seize, but that put me on to build number three for that motor. It runs good now - .040 over. But as you said earlier, 13mpg. Ugh.

Thanks for leading me over here for the diesel install. I'd go this way if I could find a 5spd stick tranny for this motor. I just don't know of any. Does anyone?

[mikesacs]

Originally Posted by mani

Thanks for leading me over here for the diesel install. I'd go this way if I could find a 5spd stick tranny for this motor. I just don't know of any. Does anyone?

I don't have much knowledge of manual transmissions options, but the rear of this engine is the same as any small block chevy. Surely there is a 5 speed that would work.

[mikesacs]

Assymbled the engine, painted it, and now it's back in the burb. Should have the rest of it done this week.

[piratexpress1369a]

looks good ..have you fired it up yet?

[mikesacs]

Originally Posted by piratexpress1369a

looks good ..have you fired it up yet?

I'm lacking radiator and fluids to start it. The radiator has oil cooler and trans cooler inside. I also have bumper, hood, flexplate cover, and some misc. I might get to work on it in the evenings this week to have it running by the weekend. Can't wait to hear it run!

[mikesacs]

Radiator and fans are mounted. Started on the oil cooler hoses. It's the first time I've used real braided hose. Aeroquip is the product. The ends are a bolt together reusable compression fit. High quality stuff.

[gostranger]

i cant wait untill it is fired up could you do a vidieo!! so we could hear it!!??
by the way nice job on the build!!

[mikesacs]

Originally Posted by gostranger

i cant wait untill it is fired up could you do a vidieo!! so we could hear it!!??
by the way nice job on the build!!

Thanks, I'll try a video. I haven't tried to post one of those yet. I wonder if it loads just like a picture.

[gostranger]

i am not sure how to load vidieos i think you have to post them on youtube then link themto here but i would love to hear that motor when it gets running i think it will be awsome!

[mikesacs]

The truck is now running! I have a big list of thing to fix, but we drove it about 150 miles this weekend to start breaking it in. I'm trying a youtube video below. My only worry is that the hot idle oil pressure is at 11 PSI. I expected it to be higher. It's at 38 PSI at 55 MPH. It drives great, quieter and much more power than my 62 p/u with a 400 small block.

WP 20120728 231301Z - YouTube

[mikesacs]

I stopped in at the machine shop that did my short block and asked about the oil pressure. He said that my bearing tolerances were within limits, but at the loose side of the limits. That's why my oil pressure is down to 11 PSI at hot idle. He said that it will be fine at that pressure but if I wanted to do anything, I could add Lucas oil additive, or a high volume oil pump. Both of those would increase the oil pressure.

[piratexpress1369a]

how loud is it in the cab when its running

[mikesacs]

It's quieter in the cab than my 62 p/u with a small block 400. I think it also quieter than the old 6cyl with turbo mufflers that came out of the suburban. Right now I don't even have a firewall pad. I'll add the firewall pad and something under the rubber floor mat in the future. I do have a dB meter that I could take some readings on to have a real comparison between a few vehicles. You can definitely have a conversation with the passenger. It seems like the diesels avoid some of the noise due to the lower rpm that they run.

[mikesacs]

Ordered some 3.73 ring and pinion gears. Need to change the existing 4.11s. A note came with the US Gears that said they are noisy. Didn't know that when I ordered them. I'll return those gears and either get OEM or Yukon gears, whichever is quieter. If I can find that out. I plan on doing my first reared in a few weeks.

I just got my B&M torque convertor lockup working. I had to replace the brake light switch with a Honda switch that had 4 connections, a normally open and a normally closed. One was needed for the brake light circuit (NO) and the other was needed to disengage the lockup (NC). Works great now, crappy instructions.
Posted via Mobile Device

[mikesacs]

Removed the cover on my 14 bolt rear differential. Can anyone tell me if this is a posi or an open carrier? From what I can tell, they both look similar on the 14 bolt. It's not obvious like other rear ends.

[mikesacs]

My carrier turned out to be an open one. I ordered an Eaton posi, 3.73 ring and pinion, and bearing kit all from thegearshop.net. Returned the noisy gears. Been driving it a lot lately and really like it. Can't wait to get the rear end changed to the 3.73 for some highway driving.

I need to do something with the front leaf springs. They are the stock 2 leaf and bent below flat about an inch. I did add about 200 pounds to the front with this engine. I found some 1400 lb springs (200 over stock) that show a 1 1/8" arch. Does that mean my front end will be 2 1/8" taller than it is now? The truck is 2 1/2 lower in the front than the rear currently.

[mikesacs]

I installed the magnetic sensor for the tach. Since this is a diesel, they don't have a easy tachometer signal. This one will operate off the flexplate teeth. I had a aluminum block welded to the flexplate cover to allow enough thickness to thread for the sensor. Still need to finish the wiring and adjust the tech. I have an opitcal tach that will be used to adjust the dash tach for accuracy. The optical tach is a cheap one from Harbor Freight. You stick a reflective sticker on anything that spins (I used the balancer) and it shows the rpm.

The aluminum block is something I ground from an old aluminum electrical lug. I took it to a local welder since I can't weld aluminum.