1968 Chevrolet SWB Stepside Restomod

[Xeen]

Ok so back to build planning for the truck.
I've decided since I'm an aggressive driver I'm going to need better handling and since I've already done a 2/4 drop and added a front sway bar its time to add a rear sway bar so I will be ordering one from CPP.
Also since I dropped the rear 4" and added a rear shock relocator Kit im going to need something shorter than stock length rear shocks so I will be ordering those as soon as I figure out what length I need.
As far as rear brakes go I am really tempted to do the rear Disc conversion, I personaly hate working on drum brakes because in my oppinion they are the biggest pain in the arse ever, plus they have terrible stopping power, I just have to figure out if that is reason enough to spend $550.
As far as a heart for this beast I'm still considering my options and no decisions have been made as of yet, however for the transmission I'm definately going with a Overdrive model, probably a 700R4.
As far as wheels go right now it has GM 15"x6.5" rallys and I'm trying to decide if I want to slap some 18" Coys on it or not, if I do it they will be the C-5 Black Chrome model.

[Xeen]

After my near death experience with the 4-1/2 angle grinder apparently my wife decided she wanted me around a little longer so she bought me a Harbor freight Professional series 4-1/2 angle grinder with Paddle Switch for Christmas so now if I ever lose grip on my tool again it will turn off hopefully saving me from all manner of disaster.
I think this design is brilliant and you guys should consider replacing your non-safety angle grinders with this type, heres a link if you are interested.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...tch-65519.html

[Lloyd C.]

Thanks for the great progress pics. I especially enjoyed your "its just going to be a daily driver" comment. Sounds familiar. Here's shot of my 68 stepside that was going to be a "daily driver". Now it sits in my garage, under cover, waiting for the next show or rod run.

[gdavis]

I guess you like the product (steering wheel) good luck with the build and put a jacket on and work on your truck. Ha Ha. From florida

[67ctener]

Originally Posted by Xeen

After my near death experience with the 4-1/2 angle grinder apparently my wife decided she wanted me around a little longer so she bought me a Harbor freight Professional series 4-1/2 angle grinder with Paddle Switch for Christmas so now if I ever lose grip on my tool again it will turn off hopefully saving me from all manner of disaster.
I think this design is brilliant and you guys should consider replacing your non-safety angle grinders with this type, heres a link if you are interested.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...tch-65519.html

Funny you mention this, I took a 4" wire wheel to the chin while cleaning up the frame so i could put in my c notch. What a mess and I had the gf freaking out
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[Xeen]

As you guys know money changes everything in a build and since I just got a fresh infusion of cash I can do things that I previously couldnt afford.

More than likely I will be tearing it all back down and reassembling in the spring, It will add about 24 hours on to the build and doing things twice isnt ideal to say the least but hey I've already put in around 100 hours and the end result will speak for itself.

Clean parts are alot faster to dissasemble and reassemble and while im at it I will go ahead and remove the bump stop brackets on the lower control arms in preperation for a 2" drop spindle incase the current 2" drop springs arent enough for my liking.

A major mile stone atleast in my mind will be when I get the rear suspension crossmember replaced, the frame notched and the frame and suspension is completely done.

Once I get it driving I will need to decide if a steering box upgrade is in order, the current one is a stock turning ratio and with a 14" steering wheel I may need to go with a quick ratio and if the happens I will send it off to Red Head to get it done right.

I like the idea of building an chevy engine that will take higher RPMs, something in the 8,000 to 8,500 range, a possible candidate is a 327 but I will explore my options.

I want to find a Ford 20/40/20 late model leather heated seat mainly because my woman has to ride in it and I want her to be comfortable.

It seems as if there are hundreds of things to do to finish the truck especialy now that I have some cash to spend on it but it's not really that bad and I will be accumilating all the parts this winter and as soon as I have a string of 50+ degree days this spring I will be assembling it rapidly but I gotta tell you that 2 months is a long ass time to wait when I want to be out there doing it right now.

[Bomp]

Doing things twice. Disassemble of the frame, reassembly. Two steps forward one step back.
Been there. At that place again.
Momentarily getting to re-Z my frame. with-a-twist

But hey, the second time through you can make it exactly how you want it.

Can't wait til springtime comes. Take tons of pics.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Once I get it driving I will need to decide if a steering box upgrade is in order, the current one is a stock turning ratio and with a 14" steering wheel I may need to go with a quick ratio and if the happens I will send it off to Red Head to get it done right.

My steering box was worn out, so during the build I swapped it for a rebuilt quick ratio that is 2.75 turns lock to lock. Turning radius suffered quite a bit as the result although the truck handled much better on the road. TR isn't that big a thing for me, but something you might consider. I've been using a 15" steering wheel I robbed off another project. Based on your recommendation, I just bought a 14" half wrap wheel from Forever Sharp. I haven't had it out yet to see how it works, but mathematically, the smaller diameter should increase response.

Originally Posted by Xeen

I like the idea of building an chevy engine that will take higher RPMs, something in the 8,000 to 8,500 range, a possible candidate is a 327 but I will explore my options.

Wow, as an ancient drag racer, I can say that rpm is Modified Production territory ...great for the strip but difficult to manage on the street. If you go this route, be prepared to run a 4.88 or 5.13 gear, steel rods, forged pistons, roller cam, valve springs that last about 100 miles and a whole host of other expensive parts. Even then it's only a matter of time until something scatters, usually at the most inopportune moment.

[Xeen]

Another small update Harbor freight is having a super sale untill Jan 7th and there were a few things on there I needed so I bought them.
Pneumatic Adjustable Roller Seat, $19.99 with online printable coupon.
http://www.harborfreight.com/pneumat...MTM4OSJ9%0D%0A
Blue Flame Auto Darkening Welding Helmet, $39.99 with online printable coupon.
http://www.harborfreight.com/blue-fl...MjI5NiJ9%0D%0A
They have alot of other usefull items on super sale right now so check it out of you need some stuff and you have been waiting for a big sale.

[gdavis]

As you know I am the king of doing things two or three times. But thanks to you and Bomp and the others guys I am on track again. Just wanted to say thanks for all your information. Gooooooood luck

[19Chevy67C10]

I'm sure watching this build and can really appreciate doing the work outside! I also would like a infusion of cash to come my way! Keep posting pics and God Bless....Kev C.

Originally Posted by Xeen

As you guys know money changes everything in build and since I just got a fresh infusion of cash I can do things that I previously couldnt afford like get the frame and suspension professionaly sand blasted and powder coated.

More than likely I will be tearing it all back down and reassembling in the spring, It will add about 14 hours on to the build and doing things twice isnt ideal to say the least but hey I've already put in around 100 hours and the end result will speak for itself.

Clean parts are alot faster to dissasemble and reassemble and while im at it I will go ahead and remove the bump stop brackets on the lower control arms in preperation for a 2" drop spindle incase the current 2" drop springs arent enough for my liking.

A major mile stone atleast in my mind will be when I get the rear suspension crossmember replaced, the frame notched and the frame and suspension is completely done.

Once I get it driving I will need to decide if a steering box upgrade is in order, the current one is a stock turning ratio and with a 14" steering wheel I may need to go with a quick ratio and if the happens I will send it off to Red Head to get it done right.

I like the idea of building an chevy engine that will take higher RPMs, something in the 8,000 to 8,500 range, a possible candidate is a 327 but I will explore my options.

I want to find a Ford 20/40/20 late model leather heated seat mainly because my woman has to ride in it and I want her to be comfortable.

It seems as if there are hundreds of things to do to finish the truck especialy now that I have some cash to spend on it but it's not really that bad and I will be accumilating all the parts this winter and as soon as I have a string of 50+ degree days this spring I will be assembling it rapidly but I gotta tell you that 2 months is a long ass time to wait when I want to be out there doing it right now.

[Low Elco]

Had a little HF Xmas party myself! Glad you're on the stoke again. There's a guy in Springfield, MO also named Chip that runs Power Steering Specialties. (Services? something like that.) He'll take your stock box and re-gear it, mod it for feel, whatever, for around 2 bills, if memory serves. He does great work. He did a 72 Monte box for me with high ratio, high effort guts and it was great. If you wanna get real silly, check the Make it Handle thread in Suspension. Some dudes getting Crazy in there!

[Xeen]

Small update.
I had a couple of days worth of 50+ weather back to back and I got a few things done.
I finished derusting the replacement rear suspension crossmember frame section and painted it.
I changed out the driver side headlight bucket and beauty ring from a 69-72 version to a 67-68 version so now thats all correct.
Little things but it all has to be done.

[gdavis]

Having a heat wave there. I don't know if I should say this. But it was 85 wednesday and 83 today here in florida

[Xeen]

Small update.
I bought a used bench seat out of a 1971 C10 for $40 that had been previously refoamed and recovered, the foam is still in excellent condition but unfortunately the covering is a little worse for wear so I'm going to buy a new seat cover for it.

Heres a pic.

[cubber]

Good find on the seat!. My factory length shocks were pretty good with 4" drop, but if you think they are tall, get a pair of shocks for an early 2000's Toyota Tacoma. I will get the number for you, but I just got a pair of Monroe's off of Amazon for like $35. I would check and see if yours are bottoming out though.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by cubber

Good find on the seat!. My factory length shocks were pretty good with 4" drop, but if you think they are tall, get a pair of shocks for an early 2000's Toyota Tacoma. I will get the number for you, but I just got a pair of Monroe's off of Amazon for like $35. I would check and see if yours are bottoming out though.

I figured out the 1969 Corvette rear shock gives me the collapsed length I need after the 4" drop and the shock mount relocation kit.
I can get them cheap at rockauto.com

[Xeen]

The new seat I bought yesterday didn't have the track release connecting rod, so I pulled the one out of the old seat and installed it into the new one...works like a charm!

[Xeen]

Im considering swaping out my front bumper for the one with the built in driving lights from LMC, at $300 its not exactly cheap however it will increase visibility at night by quite a bit.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=73

[Xeen]

I keep thinking about converting to Electronic Digital Display.
It's expensive at $740, I'm just not sure I can justify the cost, but it sure would look awesome!
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd157.htm

[Bomp]

If you needed to replace your bumper or gauges those would be choice.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Im considering swaping out my front bumper for the one with the built in driving lights from LMC, at $300 its not exactly cheap however it will increase visibility at night by quite a bit.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=73

to save money on the bumpers, you can get it without the holes and cut your own. But i don't know about what will happen to the crome through.

[Xeen]

More build planning.
I'm going to need a rear frame mount gas tank and Boyds Welding makes a nice one for a good price.
http://www.boydwelding.com/shop/inde...evy-tanks.html

I'm also going with a CPP Billet aluminum flush mount locking fuel door.
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...Trucks/PFD.htm

I've decided that im definately going with the Dakota Digital dash, so with a reasonable budget in mind im going to skip the new bumper with the built in driving lights, nix the plan to upgrade to 18" Coys and keep the 15" rallies.

Since I'm getting the Digital Dash its going to need a nice Bezel and the plastic one just wont do so im going with a Billet Aluminum Bezel instead.

[Xeen]

Ok so feature creep is setting in here.
I found a nice little addition to my interior that just happens to work with the Vintage Air sytem im installing.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd821.htm
I had planned on installing the Vintage Air Pro series billet control unit which is $200 so for another $225 what the heck you only live once.
This combined with the digital dash and self dimming rear view mirror with compass and outside temp display will complete the modern styling update.

[Xeen]

Small update.
I picked up a set of P255-60-R15 Goodyear Eagle GT2 for the back and that completes my set I've got P235-60-R15 Goodyear Eagle GT2 on the front.