Knomadd '71 SWB C-10

[knomadd]

I don't have the $$$ for the a/c yet. Will need to save for a while before I drop that much cash. I have some other non-truck related expenses coming up between now and June, so it may be a while before I get enough cash for it.

I'm not certain that towing wouldn't be good on coil-overs, but I was saying I had planned on towing anything from a small trailer to a fully loaded car hauler with a 4000 lb. car on it. His response was that coil-overs weren't recommended for a hauling a 4000 lb. trailer behind the truck. Just some food for thought before you purchase your parts.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Thanks Duane!

Yeah I contacted them myself, and asked if I could pull a boat they said it's not recommended, you could haul items but it's limited as we both know. So now it's decisions decisions, because I won't lie I actually want a truck that can handle pretty awesome like not a like 3 ton brick on wheels so, just have to weigh out the options, but I know if I run bags like you're talking you can haul anything no issues.

Completely off subject how'd you get your build thread link to say 1971 Chevy C10, because I can't figure it out.

[knomadd]

It's part of the code when you insert the link. I'm fairly certain the code starts with [URL] and has a web address in quotations, this is the link. Toward the end, you'll have a second, duplicate web address that is your display text for the link, in my case 1971 Chevy C10. You can change this to be whatever you want. If that doesn't work than I've got it backwards and the quoted address is the display text.
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[77ChevySharkBite]

Alright thank man! I'm going to have to mess with it some because I have what I want it to say but it still shows the rest of that stuff and I don't know how to take it off.
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[knomadd]

Looks like it worked.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Well I was able to change it, but if you click on it, it won't take you to my build thread so that's what I have to figure out
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[knomadd]

OK, the quoted web address needs be the actual web address to your build thread. Here's the code for your signature:

URL="http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=539403"]1977 Chevy C10 SharkBite[/URL]

If you want to copy this straight into your signature, you'll need to add the bracket before the URL (like this: [URL ) in your code and change the red text to whatever you want it to say. Otherwise, click the link button in your signature editor and paste your build thread web address into the pop-up. Once the code is in your edit box, you can change the web address (only the non-quoted web address) to read whatever you want, like the red text above. If you delete anything between the 1st set of brackets, from URL to the last quotation mark around the 1st web address; or the last /URL and it's brackets, it wont work properly.

This is what it will look like: 1977 Chevy C10 SharkBite or SharkBite just by changing the text in red.

Let me know if you need more help.

[77ChevySharkBite]

I can't thank you enough I finally got it! Thank you so much!!!
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[knomadd]

I started the Hydratech booster swap this weekend. Got everything installed and bought a new power steering pump because I wasn't comfortable relying on the old dented and rusty pump to run the booster and stop the truck. The damn thing leaks because the bracket mounts to the back of the pump and I can't get it to help seal one of the bolt holes where the case and the pump meet. I doubt the bracket on the truck is original, but I'm afraid if I swap for an aftermarket front, low mount power steering pump bracket, that it won't line up with the pulley's.

I'm going to try a quick fix tonight... buy an o-ring and a washer that will fit snugly against the bolt and put the o-ring against the pump case, then the washer, then the bracket followed by the lock washer and bolt head. Hopefully there will be enough material between the bracket and the pump case to hold the pressure back and seal the pump. If this doesn't work, I need a front, low mount bracket. Not able to do full kit swap yet as the money isn't there.

[77ChevySharkBite]

I can't think of the tape that I used on mine because that was a problem I had, 2 of my bolts went in fine but 1 was still allowing it to leak, and I put some sort of tape its real thin, and white I can't think of the specific name they use, but put some on my bolt tightened it and no more leak.

[knomadd]

I think you're talking about Teflon tape. I did use some of that, even more than I normally do because it was leaking so bad, but it didn't solve the problem. I think the problem is that the case isn't pinched against the pump itself, so it's still coming through the bolt hole. I can't get the bracket to help make that "seal" between the case and the pump. Hoping the o-ring and washer will help it.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by knomadd

I think you're talking about Teflon tape. I did use some of that, even more than I normally do because it was leaking so bad, but it didn't solve the problem. I think the problem is that the case isn't pinched against the pump itself, so it's still coming through the bolt hole. I can't get the bracket to help make that "seal" between the case and the pump. Hoping the o-ring and washer will help it.

You got it! I knew it started with a T just couldn't finish it. yeah I hope that does the trick for you man!

[knomadd]

I got the Hydratech booster installed and operational. Took it for a test drive to make sure it all worked and WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! I can actually stop the truck like a new car, instead of like a land yacht. I'll get some pics of it this weekend and post them on here. For tonight though, I'm going to bed. It's been a long week and I'm exhausted.

[knomadd]

I was going to document the Hydroboost install, but I didn't get all of the pictures. Here's what I have anyway. If anyone is trying to figure out if they want to do this, hopefully this will give a better sense of what is involved.

Start by removing the master cylinder from the booster (2 nuts from booster) and strapping it up to something to avoid spilling fluid or bending the lines.


Remove the booster from the firewall (4 nuts on studs in the firewall)


Now is the time to paint the firewall if you're going to since the hydroboost has a different mounting footprint than the vacuum booster.

[knomadd]

This is what the difference looks like between the two booster styles.


Install the booster to the firewall, followed by the master cylinder to the booster in the same manner you took off the old booster.

[knomadd]

Here's where I got too involved to take pictures...

You'll want to replace your power steering pump if you feel it is unable to perform at its best. I did because it leaked a little and was a bit beat up.

The hydratech kit I bought came with stainless braided teflon line, AN fittings and adapters and some standard hose for return line from the booster to the pump. I decided to put a black nylon cover over the braided line to be consistent with the wiring and fuel line sleeves (black, not metallic). It's a lot easier to do this now while the lines are not installed.

Here's what it looks like.


The high pressure feed line from the pump goes to the hydroboost, then back to the steering box. The low pressure return line uses a "t" fitting to connect the return from the hydroboost and the steering box to the pump.


The brass fitting is the return line.

You'll have to bleed the power steering system and check for leaks. It took me two days to figure out where the leaks were coming from and how to stop them. Once you've got the system filled with fluid, put the front on jack stands and cycle the steering from lock to lock for 10-20 cycles, checking fluid levels along the way. DO NOT let the fluid level get too low or you'll have to start over. You're trying to get all of the air out of the system.

If it foams, let it sit for 30 min and check it again. If it's still foamy, come back in another 30 min. Once you've got all the air out of the system and fluid levels are consistent, disable the ignition and crank the engine for 5 seconds. Check for leaks and fluid level and repeat. Again, if it's foamy, come back in 30 min.

Once you have consistent fluid levels and no air, start the truck and let it idle until you get to operating temp. This should take about 15-20 minutes (may be different depending on climate and cooling system condition).

After it's warmed up, slowly apply pressure to the brake pedal 5-6 times to allow the fluid into the booster. If your pump growls at you, stop and let the foamy fluid dissipate. Check fluid levels and repeat as necessary. It is a good idea to shut off the engine and check the fluids after the first couple of pumps on the pedal.

Once you have no air bubbles in the fluid, you are good to go. Take the truck on a low speed test drive (be careful because you don't know that everything is good yet). It's a good idea to test your brakes in your driveway a few times before you go on the streets. Don't drive very far (5 miles is plenty) and park it somewhere safely over night (in your driveway or garage preferably) and check fluid levels and for leaks. Check for leaks and fluid levels again the next day. If everything checks out, you're done. Go drive it and enjoy the new ability to STOP!

Doesn't that feel better?! Night and day difference in my case.

[knomadd]

I just finished the aluminum trim plate for the stereo about an hour ago. It' still not as thick as I'd like, but it will work for now. It definitely helps dress up the hack job the PO did. This was a pain but I'm glad I did it.

[IMG][/IMG]

[ddubbs]

Subscribed. Man luv what you started with and where it's going!!!
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[knomadd]

Originally Posted by ddubbs

Subscribed. Man luv what you started with and where it's going!!!
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Thanks ddubbs! It's progressing nicely. I'd like it to go a little faster, but funds wont allow it. Probably best since I haven't decided on a clear path for it yet.

[knomadd]

OK guys, I need some opinions. I'm going to be purchasing a Vintage Air unit sometime in the near future as I'll need the A/C for these unforgiving Texas summers. I obviously need to get some brackets for the new compressor, but I'm not sure where to get it from, or if it will work with my current setup. I don't know if any of my brackets are stock (pulleys are not) so even if I do buy a compressor bracket, i don't know if it will line up with the middle groove in the crank pulley or the other groove in the water pump pulley.

Here's where I need opinions: Should I try and piece together brackets for my current v-belt system until I figure out my ultimate plans for the engine (which could be several years from now) or do I bite the bullet and do a full pulley swap with a serpentine conversion kit from somewhere like March Performance, Billet Specialties, Zoops, or something like that?

[Zoomin]

Should I try and piece together

These words stood out to me, because I have a tendency to do that myself. For me, it results in boxes of parts that I need to sell because they didn't work the way I thought they should. My advice is to save yourself some aggravation and get a setup that is designed to work together. It's going to work better and look better too.

Not saying you can't do it, I'm just sharing my luck trying to do it. You can get a full set for not a lot of jack if you shop around.
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[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by zoomin

these words stood out to me, because i have a tendency to do that myself. For me, it results in boxes of parts that i need to sell because they didn't work the way i thought they should. My advice is to save yourself some aggravation and get a setup that is designed to work together. It's going to work better and look better too.

Not saying you can't do it, i'm just sharing my luck trying to do it. You can get a full set for not a lot of jack if you shop around.
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+1

[knomadd]

Thanks Steve. That's what I was thinking and afraid of. I don't want to spend money on something that's not going to work and have to spend more on what I should have done to begin with. I appreciate you sharing your experience and wisdom.

[knomadd]

Thanks Rob for adding your experience to my decision. I'll be saving up for a complete kit since I've been worried about alignment of all the pulleys since I started looking. Your input, along with Steve's, has made me even more certain that a whole kit is the way to go.

Funds are low now, and I will be making a trip back Oregon to visit with family for a week in June and my money will be used for that trip from here until I come back home to Texas (and likely a while after). So, there won't be much done to the truck until after I have more $$$ saved up. Until then, we are both driving and enjoying it. Kristen (my wife) is actually liking the truck a lot. She enjoys driving it and says "it's fun" and asks if she can drive every time we take it somewhere together.

We took the truck for a drive this Saturday since the weather was cool and sunny (still no A/C) and she drove it for quite a while. She headed home at one point and I asked her if she was done. She thought I was putting a time limit on her so she didn't want to go too far, but I said keep going and she smiled from ear to ear. It's awesome seeing that she enjoys it almost as much as I do. There's hope yet that she might put in some effort into these vehicles in the future.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Awesome work man!! Glad to see progress, it's a good thing to have stopping power no doubt about that! lol

That's awesome man glad your wife is able to enjoy it and she enjoys driving it, I won't lie I'm going to be scared to let anyone drive mine. Right now I let my friends kind of drive him or move him around but nobody drives him on the street just yet but me, but it's always good to hear that a woman takes interest in our trucks, and doesn't view them as a money pit

I saw your GTO on the alternate tinkerings, I must say GORGEOUS!!!