1952 1 Ton Rebuild

[SCHRUMGMC]

Oh alright..I've always worried about that

[coralhead]

Originally Posted by SCHRUMGMC

Love the welding job, but only thing I'd worry about is, what if the Weld breaks ?

It is a flanged lap weld and is welded on both sides. It is not going to break. I will worry more about getting hit by a meteor.

[SCHRUMGMC]

Originally Posted by coralhead

It is a flanged lap weld and is welded on both sides. It is not going to break. I will worry more about getting hit by a meteor.

so weld both sides of the Weld..Well I have learned something as well today

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by ChevyBrad

Are your plans to shorten the frame too? That was my original intent but the more I am researching I am finding that a 3800 with a 9' bed in good shape is very rare and valuable so I don't think I want to do that any more. Do you know how rare these trucks are?

That was originally the plan
So far, I've been considering:
- Lengthen the bed, so it fits the frame
- Shorten the frame so it fits the bed
- make a tool box that fits between the bed and the cab to take up the space on the frame.

I don't know quite how rare they are. I know they are significantly more rare than 3600's especially more than 3100's but I don't know if they're valuable enough to keep stock.
If I knew someone was restoring one, and needed a 3800 frame, I'd sell it to them instead of shortening it. But 3100 frames in this area take months to sell, and sell way under price at that. A 3800 frame, i suspect, would be significantly harder to sell. Then once I do that, I'd have to find another frame I like to put the truck on. So far, I'm leaning towards sticking with this frame.

[coralhead]

Originally Posted by SCHRUMGMC

so weld both sides of the Weld..Well I have learned something as well today

See the figures bellow. I formed a flange as shown in "C" and welded both sides like shown in "B".

[mechanixman]

Right now I'm really liking the idea of having a tool box between the bed and the cab.
I could throw in an air pod for pneumatic tools, and a winch to pull things onto the bed or a trailer.
I could mount the fairlead and air connections in the end of the bed. Or side of the air fittings on the side of the tool box.

Right now, I've decided I don't want to cut the frame, but am on the fence on what to do with the extra space.
What do you guys think?

[mechanixman]

So something like this,
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wr...0/media/images

and this

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/va...7/media/images

I probably won't use these, but just as an example to show what I could mount in there.
Maybe on top of that, I could put a removable tray or something, just to throw tools in.

[ChevroletWT]

Awesome build man. Cool to see another young gun wrenchin on some vintage GM iron. You are moving right along with the resto and I'm looking forward to seeing it come together.

I'd say keep going with the effort to save the 216. Some people trash them, but I have one in my '51 Chevy Fleetline and after sitting for 40 years it runs like a little clock. Just needed plugs, wires, dist cap, points, and a fuel pump. It is seriously incredible how smooth that little engine runs!

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Right now, I've decided I don't want to cut the frame, but am on the fence on what to do with the extra space.
What do you guys think?

Just an idea, but have you considered doing a steak bed? That would be a very plausible fabrication project, and it gives a really sweet utility look in my opinion.

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by ChevroletWT

Awesome build man.

Just an idea, but have you considered doing a steak bed? That would be a very plausible fabrication project, and it gives a really sweet utility look in my opinion.

Thanks, I really appreciate all the support and help on the forum. I know if it wasn't for that, I'd be wondering what the hell 3800 stood for.

A few of my family members strongly urged me to build a stake bed, but I plan on this being my daily driver and then some. So I figured a normal step side would be a bit more manageable on the road/parking lot.


I just got a long bed with tail gate, 2 brand new cowl panels, and a door jamb piece for $260. I'm pretty excited about that.

I'll post pics tomorrow.

[mechanixman]

Here's the bed on the frame.
I pulled the bed all the way so the end is resting on the back of the frame, just to see how much of a gap I'll have. And that's one helluva gap. (That's a 3/8 drive ratchet. Just for comparison)

Where should the bed go? does the rear cross brace hang over the back of the frame? should it be flush with the end? I want to set it up so it looks like the back of a 3600 or a 3100.

So do you think I should go with the toolbox/locker idea?
The plan is to fill it by extending the bed sides, so it still looks like a 9ft bed from the side, but actually build a locker or tool box to fill that space between the bed and cab. Then I could install on board air and a winch.

My biggest reason for this is because I can't find anybody that makes bed kits in 9 ft sections. It'll be a lot easier to use a 3/4 ton bed kit. Plus I know it'll fit!

Please tell me what you guys think.
I really apreciate your opinions.

-Nick

[SCHRUMGMC]

Looks amazing bud keep it up

[ChevyBrad]

Oh ok Yeah I see what you mean. I like the way its headed though keep it up

[coralhead]

The wheel base difference from the 36oo and 3800 is 12" accordinlg to the specs you posted on another thread. That being said you would need to lengthen the bed about 12". If you are getting those 9' runningboards I would say attach the running boards, set the bed on the frame and come up with some rear fenders to mount to the bedsides and position them up to the runningboards. That will give you an idea of how much gap you need to fill between the bed and the cab.

My .02

[Midgets50]

Are you planning on keeping you original fuel tank? if not what im doing is having a shop build me a custom fuel tank for the space i have similar to yours and putting in my spare tire carrier there. or if you really want a big fuel tank you can get those 50 gallon L tanks and get the tool box that mounts with it and just build it to where it looks like the bed wraps around it. just some thoughts though

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by ChevyBrad

Oh ok Yeah I see what you mean. I like the way its headed though keep it up

Thanks!
Will do!

Originally Posted by coralhead

The wheel base difference from the 36oo and 3800 is 12" accordinlg to the specs you posted on another thread. That being said you would need to lengthen the bed about 12". If you are getting those 9' runningboards I would say attach the running boards, set the bed on the frame and come up with some rear fenders to mount to the bedsides and position them up to the runningboards.

Well it looks more like 2-2.25 feet of difference. And I plan on extending the bed sides either way. The question is whether or not to bring the front panel of the bed all the way to the cab or not. My goal with the tool box was to still make it look like a stock 3800 bed from the side.
So the plan would be:
-extend the bedsides to the cab.
-get the running boards and fenders, and mock up where they would fit.
-move the stake pockets forward.
-mount the fenders in their new location
-Fab a tool box in the open space
-New wood bed floor
I feel like I didn't do a good job explaining that.

Originally Posted by Midgets50

Are you planning on keeping you original fuel tank? if not what im doing is having a shop build me a custom fuel tank for the space i have similar to yours and putting in my spare tire carrier there. or if you really want a big fuel tank you can get those 50 gallon L tanks and get the tool box that mounts with it and just build it to where it looks like the bed wraps around it. just some thoughts though

Thanks for the suggestion. I've been playing around with the idea of a tank right there. My dad really likes that idea. But for now, I'm going to keep the tank where it is. I like the idea of having the gas cap a little higher, and easily accessible.

[Truck Guy99]

That sounds awesome man! I personally would just extend the bed to the back of the cab and put a toolbox inside of it. As for a fuel tank, I would try to move it either in the bed (with the filler neck just below the bed rail to keep out of sight but still easily accesible) and leave the old filler neck in the cab for the original look but without the cab tank, or put one between the frame rails under the bed. Not to mention having extra storage in the cab, getting rid of fumes, and adding safety in the event of a crash.

[Midgets50]

Originally Posted by Truck Guy99

That sounds awesome man! I personally would just extend the bed to the back of the cab and put a toolbox inside of it. As for a fuel tank, I would try to move it either in the bed (with the filler neck just below the bed rail to keep out of sight but still easily accesible) and leave the old filler neck in the cab for the original look but without the cab tank, or put one between the frame rails under the bed. Not to mention having extra storage in the cab, getting rid of fumes, and adding safety in the event of a crash.

Agreed. Im currently going to fab a piece for my filler neck on the inside of the cab so it sticks out the right amount then tack weld it place so i can keep the original filler. Maybe even make it into something cool like a spare key hider. I mean honestly who would think to look inside what they think is the filler neck for some keys

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by Truck Guy99

Not to mention having extra storage in the cab, getting rid of fumes, and adding safety in the event of a crash.

I do plan on eventually moving the tank out of the cab and putting it between the frame rails, probably above the spare tire. I like the benefits like more room and safety. (I eventually plan on putting in a new seat that's going to need all the room it can get). But for now, I'm just going to get it cleaned so I can have her running by summer.

Originally Posted by Midgets50

Maybe even make it into something cool like a spare key hider. I mean honestly who would think to look inside what they think is the filler neck for some keys

That's awesome! definitely knew I wouldn't replace the cap with a patch panel, but I didn't have a clue what I was going to do. I'm liking that, or maybe an outlet......


I guess I'll reveal my secret plan: I can't seem to find any drive in movies around here nowadays. The closest one I know of is in springfield, and 200 miles is a little far to take a date to the movies.
So what I'll do is:
-Park about 6 ft from a tree. (back end in first, this is important)
-Nail the projector screen to the tree.
-Put laptop in the seat, project/speakers on top of the cab
-Hook everything up. Power from either a generator or that outlet in the gas cap
-Put the cooler in middle of the bed for easy access to tasty refreshment
-Sit in the bed with my date, and enjoy our private movie theater.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by coralhead

It is a flanged lap weld and is welded on both sides. It is not going to break. I will worry more about getting hit by a meteor.

I always laugh when somebody questions welded parts. I often ask them to look at the factory welds. Some of the 70s GM welds look like well organized sea gull crap! I am rewelding several on my 75 Camaro clip.

[Atommik]

Nick,

Got your envelope on Sat. Contents secure!! Thank you!

Tom

[mechanixman]

Thank you!
So the spot welds you cut to get the stake pockets off, are the spot welds in the same place?
I'm going to need to cut mine off, and I was planning on using yours as a template

[coralhead]

hit the surface with a disk sander and you will be able to see the spotweld dimples.

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by coralhead

hit the surface with a disk sander and you will be able to see the spotweld dimples.

Alright, will do!

So this weekend I bought a few goodies.
Went to harbor freight, and got a DA sander, and a ton of sand paper pads.
I starter working on the lip of the bed, thought that picture demonstrated the 4 colors of this bed in chronological order: Deep Blue, Aqua (TF color?), ugly cream, rust.
I brought it down to bare metal, then covered it with some rattle can primer. I thought when I finally do get to the bodywork/paint stage, it'll be a whole lot easier to remove primer than surface rust. Plus it looks new...er

I bought this el cheapo battery at Wally World for 50 bucks. Found out it fits perfectly in the stock compartment!
What battery are you guys using?

[SCHRUMGMC]

I do wonder why they put the Battery there ?

[mechanixman]

Well it's been a while since I've made a post. I've been having some computer troubles...
(I was building a new one, my graphics card isn't up to par, and I kept getting the blue screen of death.)

But on to the truck.
I've been using a DA on the bed sides some more.

I plumbed the fuel lines. I read on a recent post that those type of filters can break and start fires. So I'll switch to the metal canister types once I know everything works properly.

I thought the last picture was a pretty good demo of the paint.
The right side is what it looked like when we bought her,
The middle is what it looked like when I used some water and a rag,
and the left side shows what it looks like when I used some cleaning compound to take off the old paint.