55 TF Stretched Cab/Fleetside/LSx/Trailblazer Frame

[ricott]

Thanks everyone for you input. I've always admired the 59 dash, but for some reason got a wild hair and also bought the 62 dash. It wasn't much money, and I will put it up for another project that is waiting patiently in my brother-in-law's barn. ChuckDriver-in post 241 of your build you have pictures of a green dash, as well as pictures of a blue dash and a gray dash. Do you know what make/model of car the steering wheels in those pictures came out of? If anyone else knows you can chime in - I like that look of both types of steering wheels.

[OrrieG]

Car dash, if I hadn't been so far into my build when I saw someone else do it, I would have used a 59 or 60 Impala too.

[_Ogre]

your making good progress ricott, just read the last couple of pages of your thread. looks good.
as for that suburban, if you look at truk and thunderwagon together, i believe what they did is chop the windshield without chopping the roof
look at his door top to windshield vs truk



and my vote is for the impala dash

[ChuckDriver]

Originally Posted by ricott

Thanks everyone for you input. I've always admired the 59 dash, but for some reason got a wild hair and also bought the 62 dash. It wasn't much money, and I will put it up for another project that is waiting patiently in my brother-in-law's barn. ChuckDriver-in post 241 of your build you have pictures of a green dash, as well as pictures of a blue dash and a gray dash. Do you know what make/model of car the steering wheels in those pictures came out of? If anyone else knows you can chime in - I like that look of both types of steering wheels.

The green one has a smaller diameter 55 Chevy wheel painted 2 shades of green, both the blue and gray use a 59-60 Impala wheel, the gray one is actually green and the wheel is a smaller one too. I know this one personally, as it was built by a good friend of mine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1958-195...00b61f&vxp=mtr

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

your making good progress ricott, just read the last couple of pages of your thread. looks good.
as for that suburban, if you look at truk and thunderwagon together, i believe what they did is chop the windshield without chopping the roof
look at his door top to windshield vs truk



and my vote is for the impala dash

Hey Ogre:

I would sure like to know more about how they did the windshield chop. I like it.

[ricott]

[QUOTE=_Ogre;6608775]your making good progress ricott, just read the last couple of pages of your thread. looks good.
as for that suburban, if you look at truk and thunderwagon together, i believe what they did is chop the windshield without chopping the roof
look at his door top to windshield vs truk

Thanks Ogre for posting the picture - that is a cool picture of two really good looking rides! - and thanks for pointing out the top of the windshield difference. I like the look, but I don't want to attempt to cut a curvered windshield down.

[QUOTE=ChuckDriver;6608956]The green one has a smaller diameter 55 Chevy wheel painted 2 shades of green, both the blue and gray use a 59-60 Impala wheel, the gray one is actually green and the wheel is a smaller one too. I know this one personally, as it was built by a good friend of mine.

Thanks ChuckDriver for the information on the steering wheels, and a big thanks for posting a link to a more "modern" sized version. I guess I never considered there would be reproductions of this wheel out there.

I have been in Dallas this week, so I have had a lot of time in the evenings to think about working on the project this weekend. While I will not have a lot of time, I plan to focus on cutting down the floorpan and bracing the cab. We'll see how far I get. I drove the GTO back to Dallas and I absolutely love how the car rides and handles - and I can't wait to get this truck in running condition. That party is about over as my son wants the GTO back! Thanks again everyone for following, and commenting. As always, there is more to come.

Ricky

[ricott]

Last Saturday (4/5) I managed to get the Trailblazer floor pan cut. I measured from the center line of the pan, made my marks, and used tape to make it easy to see while running the cutoff wheel. I pulled the 55 front section off and cut the pan.



Here is the finished pan



I planned to weld in the braces for the Task Force cab, but when I went to turn on the gas to my MIG welder, I realized the valve had been left open (I sure wish I could blame someone else for that!) and the tank was empty. With that I called it quits after only 2 hours in the garage. I plan to get another bottle of 75/25 gas this weekend, and I will be ready to go on good Friday - my next opportunity to work. Having been driving the GTO these last few weeks made me realize how much I've always enjoyed a stick shift. I did some quick measuring, and it looks like the shifter for the six speed tranny would come up through the floor in a good spot. As luck would have it, I have a tranny hiding under my makeshift shelf, so I now plan to make this old truck a stick shift. This tranny came out of a 2001 ZO6 corvette, and had a bad second gear. I got a really good deal on it, and had Texas Driveline convert the tranny to the traditional "bolt to the motor" setup last fall.



As always, more to come.

Ricky

Time on Saturday - 2 hours. Total time 58 hours

[Kim57]

Nice progress.
Kim

[dsraven]

gotta love that bright tape, I do the same thing. another trick that works for curved surfaces, like the roof, is a string line drawn up tight, then spray paint over the string and when the string is removed there is a void where it used to be-voila, an instant line. gotta be carefull when zip discing next to it though because the paint burns off. could use tape next to the line though. that is how I cut my roof panel for my 57 cab extension.
keep postin, love it. good ideas too.
dennis

[ricott]

Today I headed out early to the salvage yard to pick up the trailblazer ext frame. After it was loaded we chatted briefly, and I headed home.




I cut the trailer loose and then began stripping the frame in the shade.



One thing I noticed for the first time today is the front frame section is tapered where it slides into the rear section. Since I wil lbe shortening this by 6 inches, the taper will be (mostly) cut out.



I marked the frame where the front and rear sections are joined and marked where the six inches will be cut. I will only be using the rear section of this frame, and will pick up the front section next week at the salvage yard but I wanted to see how the cuts would be made on both frames.



I marked the frame with my trusty yellow tape and then cut it. Andrew and I will unload the rear section tomorrow and the front section (junk) will go back to the yard when I pick up the good section later this week.



While I didn't get all I would like to have done, all in all it was a good Saturday! As always, more to come.

Ricky

Time today: 8 hours. Total:64

[dug224]

Ricky: Making progress! Are you planning on running the stock fuel tank setup? I am and it is posing a technical challenge making sure it is worked into the soon to be completed engine wiring and PCM reflash. There are a number of wires related to the three connectors at the fuel tank that I need to retain that are normally unpinned. Subscribed to "Alldata" the other day. Man, wish I had been paying attention the first time you mentioned that. What a lifesaver. Keep it up...dug

[ricott]

Dug, to answer your question, I plan to use a short wheelbase Trailblazer tank. I thought the long wheelbase probably would not fit after shortening the frame by several inches. The fuel pump assembly should have two connectors on it, one for the pump/fuel gage, and a second that is the "tank pressure" sensor. The third set of wires goes to the fuel vapor filter system. The tank pressure and the fuel vapor system work with the switch on the top of the intake manifold. When the pressure gets to a certain point, the PCM triggers the intake manifold switch which opens and pulls some of the gas vapor from the fuel tank. I plan to run this part of the emissions system to (hopefully) eliminate the gas smell - but it can easily be programmed out (we did that on the GTO).

One big issue with using the stock canister type fuel pump is the fuel level sending unit. From what I recall, after around 2000 GM began using a sending unit that sends its signal to the Body Control Module, the BCM then "translates" the information and sends it to the fuel gage. An aftermarket (or traditional ) fuel gage will not work with the signal. I have thought of two possible solutions: 1) graft an aftermarket fuel sending unit into the fuel pump canister, but clearances are tight getting these pumps into the tank, or 2) find a fuel pump canister from a 1998 (or possibly) a 1999 Camaro. They look like they would work, and the 1998 pump still powers the fuel gage independently of the BCM.

Since you are a lot closer to having to deal with this issue, let me know your thoughts.

Ricky

[dug224]

....or, 3) don't have a fuel gauge and never pass a gas station. Thanks for the lesson. No matter what, if I understand you correctly, if I keep the factory system in tact in the PCM, the 5.3 will run. The (empty) fuel tank is a breeze to drop so whatever the end solution is, it won't be that much rework. Hopefully, since you did the GTO, someone is producing a gauge that reads this modern signal.

Still struggling to find the TAC and gas pedal (with connectors). I got close the other day and when I got ready to pull the trigger, the guy said he would have to ask his boss if he could cut the connectors. Can't imagine them selling the wiring harness out of an '04 T.B.. Will call them back today. According to what I have read, the '03 and '04 5.3 LM4's require gas pedal part #15145758 and T.A.C. AC Delco part # 12588922. Does not appear to be much interchangeability. Once I get these in hand, the PCM is off to the re-flasher. Did you re-flash the 6.0 in the GTO or did you pay someone? dug

[ricott]

All you really have to have is the fuel pump wires (hot and ground) hooked up for your truck to run. The other stuff just makes life more pleasant. I had Jesse at wait4me reflash the GTO computer (from a 2001 Silverado to a 2000 Camaro/6 speed manuel). Because the GTO was a mash up of parts (truck manifold/injectors/MAS instead of the Camaro parts), I had to use a local tuner to ultimately get the car to run right. Since you are using a complete trailblazer system, a mail order tune for that car should be all you need. Good luck, I can’t wait to see the video of your running!

[ricott]

While ordering tires for my Wifey’s Envoy last week I got carried away and ordered 4 rims and 2 tires for my truck (Happy early B’Day to me!). Dug, who is building a 59 Fleetside using a trailblazer frame, used 255/55/18 tires on the rear of his project, and a smaller 245/45/18 on the front. After looking at tire sizes, I went with the 255/55/18 for the rear (I agree with Dug, they have that NASCAR truck look) and 245/60/18 (two pull offs from my Wifey’s Envoy).



Early Saturday I picked up the front frame section from the salvage yard and began the frame mockup. I cut the front section down, and then pulled the two parts together with my trailer tie down straps (sorry, just snapped the picture before I hooked the tie down straps up).



The front section slipped fairly easily into the rear frame section. The way GM made these frames with the taper made it really easy to rejoin the parts. With the two halves joined, I leveled the frame front to back and side to side. I pulled measurements from the front shock tower to the rear shock tower on both sides and adjusted until the length was the same. Once this was done, I pulled a diagonal from the passenger front shock tower to the Driver’s rear shock tower, and the Driver’s front shock tower to the Passenger rear shock tower. The measurements were the same (thank goodness!). With that I tack welded one rail, then checked to verify nothing had moved, then I tack welded the other rail. I put the rims on the frame and rolled it out for a photo op.





A friend cut me four plates out of 3/16th steel to use as reinforcement in the frame joints. My plan is to first get the cab/floorpan merged, front sheet metal mocked up, and the rear bed mocked up before I do the final welding on any of it. Finally, Andrew helped me place the Trailblazer floor pan on the Trailblazer frame and bolt it down. Since we have shortened the frame, the rear frame mounts did not line up with the floorpan. We bolted the front mounts down, then shimmed up with wood at the rear of the floorpan. I will weld a block from the frame to the floorpan on each side of the rear to hold it in position during the mockup stage.



After measuring the floorpans and doing the math, the Task Force rockers will be around 9 inches off the ground BEFORE the engine/tranny are installed. I’m hoping this will put me in the high 7 inch range once the frame is loaded. That’s it for now. As always, more to come.

Ricky

Time spent on Saturday/Sunday May 3rd and 4th: 7 hours; Total time:71

[dug224]

Nothing better than getting some fresh boxes of parts!!! Looking good. Glad to hear the frame slipped together so nicely. Still may consider making mine slightly longer (1 to 2 inches) in order to get the rear wheel properly centered in the opening rather than doing a bunch of body work. You made it look easy. Fuel and brake lines are the only things that take a hit if I extend. Dug

[ricott]

Thanks Dug for your comments. The frame sections have about 4 inches of overlap from the factory. You could easily lengthen yours by 2 inches IF you can come up with a way to grind out those circle plug welds. Once the frame was lengthened and welded, I would also use plate to tie the sections back together. I think the frame lengthen would be easier than bodywork on the bed section. The actual cut/grind/measure/weld part of this process took probably less than 4 hours, with probably another 3 to 4 remaining (to weld the plate) to finish the job.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

Thanks Dug for your comments. The frame sections have about 4 inches of overlap from the factory. You could easily lengthen yours by 2 inches IF you can come up with a way to grind out those circle plug welds. Once the frame was lengthened and welded, I would also use plate to tie the sections back together. I think the frame lengthen would be easier than bodywork on the bed section. The actual cut/grind/measure/weld part of this process took probably less than 4 hours, with probably another 3 to 4 remaining (to weld the plate) to finish the job.

....and another $100 to extend the drive shaft I failed to remember last night. Still probably easier than the body work. Stay tuned.

[ricott]

Originally Posted by dug224

....and another $100 to extend the drive shaft I failed to remember last night. Still probably easier than the body work. Stay tuned.

That's funny. Sounds like me "It won't take long or cost much".

[Kim57]

Coming along real nicely.
Kim

[Purcell69]

Very impressive Ricky! I'd vote for the '59 dash as well. It has so much potential. My hat is off to you. When I first started playing with my'57 years ago, (about 20), I had envisioned an extended cab. I have the wisdom to know I lack the skills to pull it off, so I am enjoying watching your handywork. Subscribed.

-Joe

[ricott]

Thanks Kim and Joe for your comments - as others have said, it helps keep us motivated when we get feedback from fellow enthusiasts. I hope to get back on the truck this weekend - life (and a wife) kept me out of the garage last weekend. I'm really itching to get started melding the cab to the floor. I also sent my computer (out of a 01 pickup) out to be reflashed as a camaro/six speed manuel. I'm off for a week in June and I want to see if I can make it run that week.

[ricott]

The latest issue I’m dealing with is setting the truck to its final ride height. Right now (without any weight on the frame) the Trailblazer suspension is fully extended. From two reference points on the front end, the number (fully extended) is 14 5/8 Inches. My Wife’s V8 Envoy, at the same reference points, is 13 inches. I have decided that I want to adjust the suspension ride height down to the 13 inch range before continuing the mockup of the cab. I pulled the front struts/springs from my frame, then used a hacksaw to cut a hole in each strut. THE STRUTS ARE FILLED WITH OIL AND 300 psi OF NITROGEN – you should never use a flame to cut these!!! The small hole released the nitrogen (and some of the oil) that was under pressure.



I then cut the bottoms of the struts to use for my adjusters. Below is a picture of the finished “adjuster” After installing these I set the final suspension height to 13 inches (using my reference points).



While I had the front struts out, I installed my V8 frame motor mounts.



I also pulled the 6.0 engine out of the corner. I still need to fab the rear adjusters (maybe over memorial weekend).



Once I have the ride height set, I will begin mating the Task Force cab and Trailblazer frame. As always, more to come.

Ricky

Time spent on Saturday, May 17: 4 hours. Total time: 75

[dug224]

You're out of control...dug

[ricott]

Well the best laid plans. I had vacation scheduled last week (and planned to work all week on the truck), but work continues to get in the way and I had to put that off until next month. On top of that, the GTO got backed into on the Driver's Quarter/door. After a week of back and forth with State Farm (other person's insurance), the insurance check hit my account yesterday. They estimated 57 hours to fix the car - we will see.





I started on it today, so the truck is again on hold until the GTO is fixed.



I worked on it 5 hours today - and it was pleased with the progress.





The Quarter is pulling out nicely.



I do want it completed by July 10 - because I plan to take it to Good-Guys Columbus that day. As always, more to come.

Ricky