Crash's 1988 Land Cruiser Build

[Crash_OK]

Update.. Been real busy at work and haven’t worked a great deal on the Land Cruiser. I did get my AC lines built.. Thanks Mike (TIG) and Kyle (crimp).. I have them installed and I am hoping to get it charged this evening. The AC was not working when I purchased the truck, so there may be some other issues, we will see.





I also built a Toyota to GM cruise control convertor. Not so much Toyota to GM, but more normally closed switch to normally open switch convertor. I built the same thing for my 69 K10 project, except I didn’t use a printed circuit board. It really only takes 2 relays to do this, but I added a third for a input into my new Dakota Digital Gauge set I hope to install in the next week or two.













Got the tailpipes done at a local muffler shop in Checotah Oklahoma.. They did a great job.



Found an hairline crack in the oil pan.. not sure how it got there, but it was there, no damage to the pan that I could see other than the crack.. I contacted my engine guy and he gave me a different pan to replace this one with.. I replaced it Sunday morning and all is good again. The original pan had some crud in the bottom of it, but no bearing material that I could see..



I have addressed a few of the items on my list from the last update…
1. Get the tailpipes installed.. I built the exhaust back to the mufflers, but I think I will take it to the muffler shop to get the tailpipes done.
DONE
2. Get the AC lines completed and evac and charge the AC.
Almost Done
3. Get the front driveshaft modified..
Taking it to the shop this week
4. Get the injector issue fixed
I think it is getting much better.. I have another set of injectors to install, but I think I will see if these continue to improve.
5. Get the engine knock issue fixed
This one is difficult.. It is not a knock like a main or rod, it could be piston slap.. or maybe it is nothing at all.. I swear I can hear something sometimes, but others do not hear it.. There are times I don’t hear it as well.. I have done a lot of reading on the L33 engine, and this noise appears to be common on some L33 and 5.3 in general.. As noted above I did not find bearing material in the oil pan I replaced. I still have a few weeks of warranty left, so I will continue to drive it and see if it gets worse.

I drove the Land Cruiser from Eufaula to Edmond (150 miles) yesterday afternoon.. Air Temp was around 96F. The oil pressure was solid at 50#@2400rpm, 35#@idle. Water temp never got over 205F and ran most of the time around 197F to 200F, I have a 195F Thermostat I believe. Transmission felt great, engine felt great. I set the Cruise to 77mph for most of the trip and it worked prefect. There were a few times I got into the gas pedal a little, and it has no problem moving.. The drivetrain is very smooth and noise free at speed. I got about 16mpg the best I can tell. Overall I am very happy with the swap.

I know there are people who are purist and would never degrade a Toyota with a GM engine, I get that, (I heard the same thing when I built the 69 K10 and the 5.3)but for those of us who are not purist, the 5.3 is a great power plant for this vehicle.

I am working on a spreadsheet with the cost for this swap and will post it soon; in addition I am working on a wiring schematic for the swap. Someone might find it useful in the future.

[tune_1]

Mark
Great to see that the trip to Edmond was good. Thanks for the thread on a different swap it is good to read and know the challenges.

Dwight

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by tune_1

Mark
Great to see that the trip to Edmond was good. Thanks for the thread on a different swap it is good to read and know the challenges.

Dwight

Dwight,

Thanks..

[Crash_OK]

I am still working on finishing up the project.. I have posted a couple of transmission issues that I am having on the LS Swap section http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=629115. If any one has any ideas let me know.

[Clyde65]

Crash, hit up Clienbarger here on the forum, he is a wiz with tranny's and the swaps.

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Crash, hit up Clienbarger here on the forum, he is a wiz with tranny's and the swaps.

Thanks.. I posted it in the LS Swap area just for that purpose. I have noticed he is a regular contributor to that section and seems very knowledgeable. Hopefully he will read it and share some ideas with me.

Once again thanks..

[Crash_OK]

Update time.. I have been driving the LC quite a bit. I would guess I have driven it about 800 miles or so.. I am really surprised by how smooth and powerful the setup is. Although I still believe I have a problem with the transmission, I am overall very pleased with the results.

Dakota Digital Gauge installation.

I purchased a set of 47-53 Chevy pickup gauges to adapt to the Land Cruiser dash. I love the gauges they are the same as what I installed in my 1969 Chevy K10 built.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd723.htm





























I really like the way this came out.. I think I will still do a little tweaking on getting the gauges centered up, and may make a new set of mounts that are heavier. However, I am not sure I can recommend this upgrade. I had to cut a support piece out of the dash that sits behind the gauges. The best I can tell is that this support piece ties the bottom parts of the dash together were the steering wheel sits. I have plans to build a new support piece to replace what I cut, but right now I don’t see any problems without it. Not sure how many people will be willing to take this step.. For me it wasn’t a big deal, I had already spent the money and was too far into the process to stop.

Bumpers..

Started on the rear bumper.. Plans are to build a new bumper with pull points, swing arm(s), and trailer hitch receiver. First step was to remove the old bumper.. wow what a job.. Had to cut the heads off of the bolts to get it off… After I got the old bumper off I found my old friend… rust… So there will be some rust repair or new support piece before the new bumper goes back on..














One big surprise was finding two keys in magnetic boxes tucked up inside the bumper area. Looked like that had been there a very long time.






Unfortunately the keys did not fit, so I can only assume that the ignition switch, door latch, rear hatch latch, and glove box latch were all replaced at one time…


Next step on the bumper is to create the templates for the pieces need to build the bumper. I am using a 3d drawing program and cardboard to create these.. I guess old school and new school methods..

Transmission issues

So I do believe I have a transmission issue. Two things that stand out are.. the TCC lookup isn’t working correctly, and the transmission will overheat if driven to long.. (~ hour depending on how you drive it). From the research I have been doing I believe I have some worn bores in the valve body that is causing this issue. As I have mentioned before, the transmission does not slip and shifts out very well. The only issues are the two I have mentioned above. Earlier I mentioned an issue with the transmission not wanting to shift to the next gear after I had drove it for a couple of hours, I believe the transmission was going to limp mode when it got too hot.

I have another 4L60E that I was planning on rebuilding if this one didn’t work, I have thought about using the valve body off of it, but I am afraid it could have the same issue. From what I could tell from my research this is a common issue on high mileage 4L60E’s.





Still waiting on the front driveshaft to get back from the driveshaft shop..

[Crash_OK]

Build Cost for Engine swap

Place Cost Description
OREILLY's $92.24 Plug wires, grease
OREILLY's $17.31 Injector cleaner
OREILLY's $28.12 AC Filter/Dryer
NAPA $17.00 AC Fitting
OREILLY's $12.08 AC oil rings
OREILLY's $64.82 Freon and oil
OREILLY's $6.59 power steering return hose
OREILLY's $38.48 Hose clamps and heater hose fittings
OREILLY's $64.91 Gear oil
OREILLY's $157.28 Air Filter
OREILLY's $91.22 Oil, transmission fluid, filters
SUMMITT $297.75 Fuel, transmission, power steering lines and fittings
OREILLY's $50.58 Wiring for fans , etc.
Autozone $15.18 seal
RADIOSHACK $36.80 Cruise Control parts
JTRPUBLISH $53.00 Radiator hose adapters
MOUSER Electronics $109.50 Wiring connectors, relays
SUMMITT $357.43 Exhaust pipes, gaskets, flanges, hangers, mufflers, fittings
ADVANCE AUTO PARTS $6.47 18mm plug for Oil Level sender
OREILLY's $25.23 Brass fittings
SPEEDWAY MOTORS $44.80 Fuel Filter and fittings
STONERENTE $54.92 Aluminum stock for cross member spacers
Autozone $5.08 White grease
Autozone $106.07 Transmission mount, bolts, etc.
OREILLY's $103.02 Hoses and belts
CRUISER OUTFITTERS $255.00 Transfer case rebuild kit
Advanced Adapters $385.84 Motor Mounts and headers
OREILLY's $12.84 Injector O-rings
OREILLY's $8.79 paint
OREILLY's $8.99 Carb Cleaner
OREILLY's $9.00 Electrical Tape
OREILLY's $19.15 Cleaning supplies
Advanced Adapters $792.51 Transmission to TC adapter
L33 Engine $1,200.00 L33 5.3L 106000 miles and accessories, fuse box, fans, pcm, and wiring
4l60e used craigslist $250.00 Transmission
LT1SWAP $75.00 PCM flash
Muffler Shop $200.00 Tail pipes
Total $5,073.00

Sold Engine and Trans -$1,000.00

Total After sell of engine and trans $4,073.00

[mcbassin]

Man, I love those DD gauges! they look right at home in the dash. Looks like rust has rear it's ugly head on another project. I bet you can whip that easy.
Very high quality budget priced build!

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Man, I love those DD gauges! they look right at home in the dash. Looks like rust has rear it's ugly head on another project. I bet you can whip that easy.
Very high quality budget priced build!

Thanks Mike.. it could have been a lot higher if it wasn't for your metal and welding skills..

[Zoomin]

What a break that those gauges fit. They look better than the originals. Hope you get the trans situation worked out cheap.

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by Zoomin

What a break that those gauges fit. They look better than the originals. Hope you get the trans situation worked out cheap.

Thanks Steve... The gauges are not direct replacement, but they do look better than the originals in my opinion, plus it is all driven by the PCM via then OBDII port. No sending units to install, no worries on the speedometer or tach.. Plus I get additional data now ... Trans Temp, ambient temp, etc..

We will get the trans problem worked out one way or the other.... :-)

[Crash_OK]

Wiring schematic.. Will need to zoom in on it to get any real information.

[screaminchevypickup]

Looks great mark!!

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by screaminchevypickup

Looks great mark!!

Thanks Kyle.... I really appreciate the great deal you made me on the Dakota Digital Gauges !!

[Crash_OK]

Update

I believe I have the transmission issue resolved. I installed a rebuilt valve body and the TCC lockup issue was resolved. In addition the transmission ran much cooler after the valve body was installed. I went ahead and installed the transmission cooler as well. My transmission temperature runs about 170F going down the highway and 185F or so in stop and go traffic. This is with an ambient temperature of 93F. We had some cooler weather here this past weekend, 70F and the transmission temperature ran about 155 on the highway and 175 in stop and go traffic. The lockup works great, I set the cruise on 75mph and watched the tach, and it read 2330rpm and never drifted more than 15-20rpm even on the hills.

I just hope I have not damaged the transmission, because I am sure I have heated the transmission up to the point that it did not want to shift. Not sure if it was in limp mode, or that the heat caused something to expand to the point it would not shift. I drove the LC from the lake to home Sunday afternoon, 190 miles, it ran great and the transmission shifted prefect. I did check the mileage and it went from 15mpg to 18.5mpg. That was driving 75mph for about 165miles and the rest was in town driving.

Old valve body




Found the 1-2 shift check ball stuck in the separator plate.







New valve body..



Installing new separator plate and gaskets.



Installed the valve body, filled with fluid and drove… very happy

I also replaced a leak rear wheel seal. The passenger rear had been leaking for some time and was even causing some pull doing hard braking.

Here is a picture of it cleaned up





Axle shaft – Very beefy compared to a 12bolt chevy.



Differential gears looked really good, had a little bit of issue getting the spider gears back in.. Normally I would not have removed them, but one of the trust washers fell out. I checked the backlash and it was about .0009 to .0011, not sure how far that was out of spec, but it is close to what I am use to.




No more wheel leak and the LC stops straight as an arrow now.

A few pictures of the Transmission Cooler install..




It is a small cooler, but seems to do the job, may upgrade to something larger in the future if I do any towing with the vehicle.

Next step is the bumpers.. still working over in my head how I want them to look.. I will share my thoughts once I get them on paper/computer.

[tune_1]

Great that you have the issues resolved and can begin to enjoy. Glad to see the mileage jump up

Dwight

[screamin_c10]

Nice work Crash!

[Zoomin]

Gee, two of my favorite things to work on - auto trannys and drum brakes. Gotta hand it to you Mark, that's really cool you can do that.

[68Timber]

Beautiful work, I can't believe how quickly you pulled that off.

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

Beautiful work, I can't believe how quickly you pulled that off.

Thanks John.. I think I got lucky that almost everything worked out right the first time.. the Transmission issue was the only real hiccup that I had, and I gout lucky getting it worked out as quickly as I did.

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by tune_1

Great that you have the issues resolved and can begin to enjoy. Glad to see the mileage jump up

Dwight

Thanks Dwight, very pleased with this swap, and surprised with the power and mileage..

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by screamin_c10

Nice work Crash!

Thank you...

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by Zoomin

Gee, two of my favorite things to work on - auto trannys and drum brakes. Gotta hand it to you Mark, that's really cool you can do that.

Thanks Steve.. hope your projects are coming along well...

[Crash_OK]

Time for an update, it has been several weeks since I gave one. I guess the best update is that I have been driving the crap out of it. It’s my daily driver, the 06 Tundra hasn’t seen much action in the last 8 weeks. I have put over 6,000 miles on the Land Cruiser since the 5.3 swap. My wife and I took it to Shreveport last month, over 900 miles round trip, averaged 18.5 mpg. I have made many 300 mile round trips to the Lake.

New wheels and tires… I love them… Moto Metal 957 17x9 -12mm offset with Nitto Terra Grappler P285/70/R17. Got a great deal at Discount Tire.

Trial fitted the rim before I got the tires mounted. I wasn’t sure about the fit.






I am very happy with them..

Sold my 1969 K10 and got the wife this…





Started on the rear bumper, built templates.








I enlisted a good friend to help me with the bumper build. He is a great welder and machinist, I don’t think there is anything he can’t make. Thanks Mike, I owe you… again

Before we could start building the bumper we had to fix the famous frame rust issue. Wow, what a job, we spent many hours grinding, drilling, hammering, sweeting, and bleeding getting the old pieces out. We created the replacement pieces out of 3.5” 3/16” wall square tubing. They work well, we had to work one end to match the frame.






Painted the frame and the replacement pieces with POR15 and then bolted it all together.








I am glad that is over…

Next step was to cut out the bumper mounts, used ½ plate. Cut it with a plasma cutter I got from eastwood. Used the wood templates to make them.




Top plate




Front






Getting closer



Lots of welding… Lots of grinding.. Lots of work..













Started on the swing arms…





















Still need to build a basket for the driver’s side swing arm. Then we will break it all down, clean up some welds, sandblast, primer, and paint.

Starting on the templates for the front bumper this weekend I hope.