Project "Steppin Wolf" LS swap

[Liltroy]

Figuring up my budget. I set a $5000 cap when I first started and wifey agreed to it. This is what I've spent to date and all I have left to buy is a few more AN fittings since I've decided to make my trans lines out of braided hose, a drive-shaft, and Ill have to get a new exhaust system because I refuse to hook this new engine to my rusted out flowmasters,lol. I should be waaaaay under my original budget! especially if you factor in the sale of my old drive-train for $450, and some other parts Ill be selling soon. The stuff with the 0 next to it is stuff that was either optional or that could have been done alot more cheaply. For example, you don't have to clean and paint everything. I could have spent about $40 less on regular fuel line instead of the braided, if I wouldn't have taken everything apart to paint, I wouldn't have needed all the gaskets....stuff like that.




Im going to redo all this in WORD later for those that want to know what this swap cost.
It should also be noted that I had more than one oportunity to purchase a complete 5.3 pullout with ALL accesories including the airbox, MAF,TAC harness and transmission for around the same price that I payed for this 6.0 that came with none of that. So I could have shaved around $1000 off this list if I just would have went for the 5.3 swap.

[Rich84]

Ya ..Keep up the good work. Cant wait to get started on mine.

Are you going to go with the catch can? I have a 6.0 in my 2004 work van and it does suck quite a bit of oil into the throttle body. (345,000 miles)

[Liltroy]

Originally Posted by Rich84

Ya ..Keep up the good work. Cant wait to get started on mine.

Are you going to go with the catch can? I have a 6.0 in my 2004 work van and it does suck quite a bit of oil into the throttle body. (345,000 miles)

Yep, after seeing all the oil deposits in the intake I ordered one. Just a little eBay cheapy but should help somewhat.

[Liltroy]

No it's a slip yoke. Looks just like the tail housing on a short tail th400 and the trans is two inches shorter than the th375 it replaced so I'm pretty sure I'll need a new driveshaft. �� thanks for the info, I'll contact them after I get the drivetrain set in and am able to take some measurements. ��

[bnoon]

My mistake on the headers. That's what I get for doing a quick glance. Oh well. Still a very nice little build you have going on here.

As for the transmission, why did you go with the 80? Do you plan to add a power adder down the road? Or just looking at it from a stock vs stock the 60/65 wouldn't have been enough? Or maybe for 500 you just couldn't pass it up? Just wondering.

[NorCalAnthony]

Nice job on the swap so far dude! I'm still gathering parts for my 5.3/4l80e swap in to my 89 K5 and love watching all of these square body LS swaps for motivation

[Liltroy]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

Nice job on the swap so far dude! I'm still gathering parts for my 5.3/4l80e swap in to my 89 K5 and love watching all of these square body LS swaps for motivation

Thanks man! I plan to do a parts list at some point to help others figure out what's needed. I bought a lot of unnecessary things and some stuff could be done more cheaply but it'll give people a general idea anyway.

[Liltroy]

Originally Posted by bnoon

My mistake on the headers. That's what I get for doing a quick glance. Oh well. Still a very nice little build you have going on here.

As for the transmission, why did you go with the 80? Do you plan to add a power adder down the road? Or just looking at it from a stock vs stock the 60/65 wouldn't have been enough? Or maybe for 500 you just couldn't pass it up? Just wondering.

Not a big deal. I'm glad I got people here to give me a heads up on things before I find out the hard way!
I went with the 80 for its factory durability and because I plan to add a cam later on and already have a nitrous kit to put on so I figured why chance it with a 60/65? Plus it's the trans that came gm installed behind this engine in the first place.

[bnoon]

Originally Posted by Liltroy

Not a big deal. I'm glad I got people here to give me a heads up on things before I find out the hard way!
I went with the 80 for its factory durability and because I plan to add a cam later on and already have a nitrous kit to put on so I figured why chance it with a 60/65? Plus it's the trans that came gm installed behind this engine in the first place.

Oh yeah, if the transmission will stay stock-ish, 80 all the way. I had to have a built transmission either way and the price difference for a 750 horse/torque 65E was less than a comparable 80E, so for me the built 65E was the way to go. The guys at Monster Transmission are great to work with if you ever need parts by the way. I've had three of their transmission in three different vehicles and never one issue with them.

[Liltroy]

Originally Posted by bnoon

The guys at Monster Transmission are great to work with if you ever need parts by the way. I've had three of their transmission in three different vehicles and never one issue with them.

I had actually looked into just getting a rebuilt trans from them at one time but no more power than I'm going to be making, even with the nitrous, I figured an 80 with a shift kit and maybe a good converter would be more cost effective. Of course the converter will have to come later..... Don't think the wifeys gonna let me buy anymore "optional" equipment till this things running again,lol

[Liltroy]

Wife's new cooktop arrived last night and I spent the night installing so nothing new to report. Also, works got me covered up for the weekend so I doubt I'll get much else done but gonna try to at least get the trans cleaned up. If all goes well, next weekend I'll be pulling the old engine and dropping in new engine and trans! Still have to pull the bed to do my blazer tank swap and get started on fuel system but I'm hoping a few neighbors will help me get that off sometime next week. Summer is my busiest time at work so progress is definately gonna be slow.

[Liltroy]

got some new valve cover gaskets since mine were seeping after the paint



and since I had to buy new grommets too, I jyst went ahead and got some new stainless bolts.



New locking transmission dipstick



And a fresh set of iridium plugs



Not really related to the swap but I wanted to raise the rear of my truck a bit so I got some 1 or 2 inch drop shackles. its currently sitting on two leafs and the PO had also extended the rear shackles by cutting and welding 3" of steel into them. axle bottoms out on the frame so this was my cheapest way to be able to gain an inch or two of suspension travel in the rear.

[Liltroy]

Poor girl just begging for a new drivetrain, lol

[Rich84]

Originally Posted by Liltroy

Poor girl just begging for a new drivetrain, lol

Do you think she will sit lower in the front with the LQ4 in there?

Engine looks great by the way..

[Liltroy]

So Ive been doing some preassembly mock up to check fitment and soooo glad I did!She looking good!





BUT, I've got a problem!Everything is fine on passenger side but the two middle plug wires on the drivers side are smashed hard against the header tubes!



I noticed on the box it shows that Taylor makes these 45 degree boots but they arent listed on the website so Im going to call monday and see if I cant special order at least two of them with terminals and re-make the two middle wires or possibly all of them with the angled boots and terminals.

[Liltroy]

im actually going to raise the whole truck up a few inches when this is over. Im thinking the lq4 should weight a bit less than the engine that came out though?

[OutlawDrifter]

the LQ will weigh less, but that 4l80e will make up the difference.

[Liltroy]

Im hoping it all balances out in the end.

[Liltroy]

So Ever since Ive had the truck Ive noticed that the inside of the front wheels are making contact with the lower control arms..its cut a groove into the inside of the wheels and I thought maybe the wheels had the wrong offset until I ran the numbers on these belltech drop spindles and turns out theyre for a 71-72 c10. Im guessing these spindles have moved the front wheels in too far, hince the contact. Guess Im redoing the front suspension for sure now.

[Rich84]

Originally Posted by Liltroy

So Ever since Ive had the truck Ive noticed that the inside of the front wheels are making contact with the lower control arms..its cut a groove into the inside of the wheels and I thought maybe the wheels had the wrong offset until I ran the numbers on these belltech drop spindles and turns out theyre for a 71-72 c10. Im guessing these spindles have moved the front wheels in too far, hince the contact. Guess Im redoing the front suspension for sure now.

They are probably 3" drop spindles..If you have 15" wheels they will come in contact with the lower control arm on lock to lock turns. A little grinding to the lower arm fixes it.

[Liltroy]

Originally Posted by Rich84

They are probably 3" drop spindles..If you have 15" wheels they will come in contact with the lower control arm on lock to lock turns. A little grinding to the lower arm fixes it.

They are indeed 3" drop spindles but for a 71-72 model. So would they still rub if I had the correct spindles for my truck?

[Rich84]

Originally Posted by Liltroy

They are indeed 3" drop spindles but for a 71-72 model. So would they still rub if I had the correct spindles for my truck?

That seems to be the case with 15" wheels. But it's very minor grinding to the lip of the arm that is needed. There is probably a mark on it now where you need to clearance it.

[Liltroy]

Originally Posted by Rich84

That seems to be the case with 15" wheels. But it's very minor grinding to the lip of the arm that is needed. There is probably a mark on it now where you need to clearance it.

Thanks for the help! So do you think I should replace them with the correct part number for my truck or will I be ok to leave the 71-72 spindles on there and just grind the control arm? I'm just afraid it might be effecting suspension geometry since I really don't have a 73-87 spindle to compare it to.

[Liltroy]

the new stainless bolts I got for the valve covers didnt have spacers on them.



I assume the spacers are to keep from over tightening and cracking the valve covers so I took the old ones off and put them on the new bolts. I would definately do this if you used this style bolt on the intake as well!

[Liltroy]

This gasket came with my valve cover gaskets and I have no clue what its for! anybody????