Building a '49 for myself

[tre5]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Which Shock, adjustable?
Won't 250# be a bit light?

I have the truck on the ground with everything on it except for gas and batteries. I have about 3.5" between the bottom of the frame and the top of the axle. No matter how hard I jump on it, it doesn't bottom out.
With that being said, I don't know the actual weight of vehicle so getting the correct spring rate on the first "educated" guess ( I looked around to see what others were running on similar setups) would be nice. However, if I end up needing more or less spring I can always swap them out. Ridetech normally comes to Good Guys in November out here. I plan to put it on their scales and make any adjustments they recommend. For now and for SEMA purposes, it sits perfectly.
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[tre5]

I finally got all the panels on and all 4 wheels on. I rolled it outside to get a good look at it. I think I have a little bit of adjusting to do on the rear end. I'm going to move the axle forward about 3/4" (I have adjustment in the 4 link thank goodness). I'll wait till I have batteries and gas in the rear before I adjust the coilovers down any. It's siting with too much rake for me right not. It's not terrible, but I'd like it to sit a bit more level.

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[iowaboynca]

truck is coming along nice! I agree with you the rear could come down a touch.

[HUSSEY]

Beautiful work.

Can I ask, who is your radiator by. It looks lie a Summit universal radiator I was getting ready to order. Do you know if the trans-cooler in it is a plate type or just a tube?

Also, would you also be will to share where you got your brake master cylinder, booster, proportioning valve set up? I like the looks of the smaller booster and aluminum master cylinder.

[tre5]

Thanks. Yeah, its a Summit radiator. I honestly do not know what style the trans cooler is inside of it. I am running an external cooler on the frame rail as well though.

[tre5]

Took care of some minor last minute stuff before the truck was completely blown apart for paint and powder coat. One of them was this K&N intake, originally made for a 2000 silverado.

[tre5]

Then we blew the whole thing apart. The inside floor, firewall, and lower part of the back wall, as well as the under side of the floor were all coated in Defender Pro bed liner.

[tre5]

Then, back at the painter, the frame was prepped and painted a color that will play off the interior color of the truck. I definitely didn't want to paint the frame white, and painting or powder coating it black would be too plain.

[DeanTX]

That is going to be a killer truck!

[joedoh]

pretty!

[lower50's]

Wow great work and so fast.

[tre5]

Lots more to show!
There are a ton of little parts to paint. Here's a close up of the ADE bracket for the chassis swap, all nice and shiny.

The axle was also painted, this is just the base coat. It was cleared also.

Frank also painted the engine. This is a Direct To Metal (DTM primer/ sealer)

Then the base coat and a few coats of clear

[tre5]

oh yeah, before the engine was painted the mechanics behind my shop (Trend Auto) swapped in a new Comp Cams camshaft, lifters, trunnions, and valve springs. Along with new oil pump, timing set, head gaskets, head bolts, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, a few new sensors, a B&M 2400 stall converter, rear main seal, and tail shaft seal.

Royal Purple also send me all the fluids for the entire truck!

[tre5]

Then assembly of the chassis started.
The fuel cell and batteries mount at the rear of the frame. I mounted the pump and pre-filter to the rear cross member and plumbed in a check valve at the tank as well.

Then dropped the 5.7 LS engine and 4L60E trans into place. Once in place, I installed the Vintage Air Frontrunner setup and Professional Products Typhoon intake.

Then the newly high temp Cerakoted headers, Professional Products ignition coils and spark plug wires, and a new set of spark plugs went on. I used the Stage 8 locking fasteners on the headers to avoid any loosening of the header bolts.

[tre5]

Then I got to wiring the batteries..

I used a circuit breaker at each battery, then a battery isolator on the passenger's side.

Then the main 2 ga. wire runs up to the starter. You can also see the frame mounted trans cooler, which works in conjunction with a second trans cooler in the radiator.

I also plumbed the steering hoses

[tre5]

While I was working on the chassis, the painter was working on the body. The insides of the doors and the cab were first to get painted. We are hoping to have it all painted by the end of next week!

Here's the dash. I think it came out great and I love the color!

[youngrodder]

Looking really good. Your killing it.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Very very nice! Nice detail everywhere. ADE bracket detail is cool too!

[tre5]

Here's a shot of the Ridetech control arms, coil overs, and steering setup. Also the Mcgaughys drop spindles and big brake kit.

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[lolife99]

Such a quality build.
Great attention to detail!

[YahamaR1]

Really Nice
Keep it up,
Cant waith to see it finisht

[oldman3]

Doing a great job with all the details, just super...Jim

[tre5]

Thanks for ball the kind words everyone!
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[HUSSEY]

Hey, could you tell me about your batteries. It looks like they are mounted upside down. I was looking for an option like that but couldn't find one.

[tre5]

They're Kinetik HC1800's. They are a sealed AGM battery and can be mounted in any position.
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