American in Austria 83 Build

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by 96twodoor

Good job Sir! I know its got to be difficult to put something like that together over there.

Thanks buddy. not the easiest but im making it work. Just found out CPP sent me the wrong idler arm. They sent me one for a 66-82. I guess the hole diameter changed in 83. They wouldnt send me a new one, so I need to try to find one here in austria which is probably not possible. So Ill have a buddy send me one from the US i guess. CPP said that since its past 30 days of purchase and I have no proof that I told them it was an 83 they cant do more than just give me the jobber price. Wasnt worth the battle. Just will find a different vendor for the future.

Anyway. next steps on the build will take place in mid april, when i get to work on the body. Looking forward to that actually.

Paul

[LT7A]

Glad to hear you got it figured out. That's very short-sighted on the part of CPP. Info like this registers with me and affects who I buy things from in the future. I'm sure I'm not the only one who thinks like this, so thanks for letting us know. Good luck, and keep at it. It's cool to see the updates.

[ACS]

Great build. Interesting info on the CPP stuff. Seems this isn't the only story of I'll-fitting or incorrect parts.

I don't know much about their parts across different body styles, but is it possible you have the wrong front arms and that's why the springs don't fit quite right and the shock mounts are off?

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by ACS

Great build. Interesting info on the CPP stuff. Seems this isn't the only story of I'll-fitting or incorrect parts.

I don't know much about their parts across different body styles, but is it possible you have the wrong front arms and that's why the springs don't fit quite right and the shock mounts are off?

I should check on this, but my understanding is that the control arms are all the same from the 60's through the 80's.

[JoeinT.O.]

Wow, this is one beautiful build in a beautiful place! Good luck with the delivery! Hope all goes well. I do have a question about when you got the frame powder coated: did you take all the cab mounts and cross members off completely or was it still partially assembled? Thanks in advance. Joe

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by JoeinT.O.

Wow, this is one beautiful build in a beautiful place! Good luck with the delivery! Hope all goes well. I do have a question about when you got the frame powder coated: did you take all the cab mounts and cross members off completely or was it still partially assembled? Thanks in advance. Joe

Thanks buddy. When I powder coated the frame I had all the cross members off except for the very rear cross member and I just used a piece of flat steal to keep the frame together in the front. But I used some nuts to raise the steal off the frame in order to coat as much as possible. When it was done I just taped off the area and painted the small bit of frame where the nuts were sitting on the frame. I kept all the cab mounts on. Probably would have been a good idea to knock the rivets off the cab mounts and shackle hangers to get everything powder coated and then bolted them back on. Next time

[JoeinT.O.]

Thank-you!

[44boggers]

Not to much to update, but an update nonetheless. So I sorted out my idler arm problem. I actually found my original idler arm which looks like it was replaced not all that long ago (paint still on it). So instead of trying to find one in Austria which would probably be impossible. I figured out I would clean the original up, paint it and call it good. Once everything is on the ground and steering is completely hooked up I will check to see if there is any play in it.

Other than that I ditched the original exhaust clamps I had (which were supposed to be the cats ass). I could not get them tight enough to where the exhaust wouldnt move anymore. So Instead of using the ugly ass u bolt clamps (no offense to anyone that uses them, I have plenty of times) I figured I would try a flange set up. Found some flanges, cut the exhaust so it was flush with the muffler, welding them on, inside and out, ported the inside of the exhaust (so I can get max airflow out of my 305 , bolted it up and it should be good.

Thats all for now folks.

Thanks

Paul

[MikeB]

Was just going thru this thread and saw where you used CPP spindles. Let us know how they work out. I used a few of their products in a 55 Chevy but typically they were ill-fitting and used cheesy hardware. Here's an example of problems folks have had with their Chinese parts.

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168387

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168354

Hate to think the spindles are attached to their steering knuckles that poorly!

I just bought a pair of Western Chassis spindles for my 82 C10, so we'll see how they work out.

Why do we refer to steering knuckles as spindles, anyway? I guess it like saying "rims" instead of "wheels".

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Was just going thru this thread and saw where you used CPP spindles. Let us know how they work out. I used a few of their products in a 55 Chevy but typically they were ill-fitting and used cheesy hardware. Here's an example of problems folks have had with their Chinese parts.

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168387

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168354

Hate to think the spindles are attached to their steering knuckles that poorly!



Why do we refer to steering knuckles as spindles, anyway? I guess it like saying "rims" instead of "wheels".

I just bought a pair of Western Chassis spindles for my 82 C10, so we'll see how they work out.

That is all pretty interesting. When I first bought this kit I did not realize their reputation. The parts I have from CPP are the following. Spindles, tierods, springs and upper and lower control arms.

I am not that impressed with the geometry of the lower control arms in regard to the shock mount. They know it does not line up well and dont seem to care as it has not changed even though the truck on their show room floor has the same alignment issue.

To be honest I am not sure what I will do with all the CPP gear. I am almost tempted to replace all of the CPP parts with something made in the US and has a solid reputation. Maybe I am overreacting, but when it comes to steering I would rather spend more cash if i have to.

Thanks for your response and now completely have me second guessing my set up

[44boggers]

Hey guys, I got a question regarding the bed rails on my pickup. Is it normal that the tail end of the rails dip down? Meaning they are not flat all the way to the tail gate (pics attached to clear it up). Also is there a way to adjust the tailgate height. The passenger side is a bit low but i can pull the tailgate up to make it level. Perhaps the "pins" where the tailgate sits has worn out? Is that possible and is it possible to replace them?

Thanks guys. Here comes some pics.

Paul

[LT7A]

I'm guessing that's normal on the bed rails, especially being that it's consistent from side to side. I have an eye for detail and I've never noticed that on mine. As far as the tailgate, did you check to see if there is room for adjustment on the mounting hardware? I've never had that issue with a tailgate but I can see why you'd like yours to line up better. Good luck man.

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by LT7A

I'm guessing that's normal on the bed rails, especially being that it's consistent from side to side. I have an eye for detail and I've never noticed that on mine. As far as the tailgate, did you check to see if there is room for adjustment on the mounting hardware? I've never had that issue with a tailgate but I can see why you'd like yours to line up better. Good luck man.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll Check to see if I can adjust any of he hardware.

I was hoping to get some pictures of other peoples bedrails to see if theirs lay flat or drop down like mine. I'm gonna start my body work soon so I don't want to try to shape any metal if it's not necessary.

Thanks guys

Paul

[Mr.Chevy4x4]

You do nice work sir! Keep it going!

Mike

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by Mr.Chevy4x4

You do nice work sir! Keep it going!

Mike

Thanks mike!

[ACS]

Bed rails on mine are the same. Flat up to the stake pocket, then they start to drop down like your photo.

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by ACS

Bed rails on mine are the same. Flat up to the stake pocket, then they start to drop down like your photo.

good to know, thanks bud!

[44boggers]

Hi guys,

I have a quick question involving window channel rust pitting. First off should i cut out any rust pitting I see even if it is very shallow. I have attached some pictures for You to see. There are obvious holes I will be cutting out and replacing with fresh metal. So should I also cut out every area where there is rust pits?

Thanks guys

Paul

[LT7A]

Good progress. From what I can see you have reason for confidence in your process and results.

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Good progress. From what I can see you have reason for confidence in your process and results.

Thanks buddy. It’s a fun build and process. Learning as I go with the body work and painting. I finally finished blocking down the high build. Then I put down the color and clear. All in all it came out alright. I have some runs I need to fix that came from the seams. And I must have put the color on way to thick the first pass because the it wrinkled up on the cow. But I’ll sand that down and repaint.

Sorry some of the pics are upside down. Loaded it from my phone

[44boggers]

Alright after taking the last 6 months off because I had no time. I finally got working back on the truck.

First thing to do was to fix my mess up of a paint job on the firewall. Well my mess up of color sanding and breaking through the clear. My OCD would not let it go. So i sanded everything down and resprayed base/clear. This time it came out not so bad. And after 2.5 years the cab is finally back on the frame, Feels like a big step was made and not i can really charge to get things done.

Some pics below of the progress.

But my question i have is, looking at my roof, I think i created a sag or basically shrunk the metal too much trying to get rid of some of the oil canning and low spots. Rookie mistake. I need to check exactly how out of shape it is, but i dont feel comfortable filling it with body filler. I am guessing it is at least 1/8" low in a 12" section (round).

But I am not sure how to go about being able to get the shape back in the metal. Is it possible to heat that area with the hope of it expanding back into its shape? Or is that just magical hope thinking? Or should i just treat it as a dent and try to work that out, obviously i cant get tot hte back side of it since its an outer skin, so I would have to use pins to pull it out. I posted some pics prior to the shrinking and the area in the middle marked oil can (middle of the 3 oil can makrs) is where the shrunken metal is, but its about a 12" round section.

Thanks for any tips guys

Paul

[esbstuff]

FYI... filling/removing the drip rails are a bad idea. The interior will be wet every time it rains. GM tried the no drip rail thing in 73... They then recalled/service bulletins all the trucks to add drip rails.

On the low spots, either stud gun them or fill and sand for it to be perfect.

These trucks were far from perfect when new add 40 plus years and....

[esbstuff]

One more thought... You could drill a small hole in the head liner panel and push up the outer skin. Then weld the holes up.

Originally Posted by esbstuff

FYI... filling/removing the drip rails are a bad idea. The interior will be wet every time it rains. GM tried the no drip rail thing in 73... They then recalled/service bulletins all the trucks to add drip rails.

On the low spots, either stud gun them or fill and sand for it to be perfect.

These trucks were far from perfect when new add 40 plus years and....

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by esbstuff

One more thought... You could drill a small hole in the head liner panel and push up the outer skin. Then weld the holes up.

That is not a bad idea at all!!

Thank you

[44boggers]

Originally Posted by esbstuff

FYI... filling/removing the drip rails are a bad idea. The interior will be wet every time it rains. GM tried the no drip rail thing in 73... They then recalled/service bulletins all the trucks to add drip rails.

On the low spots, either stud gun them or fill and sand for it to be perfect.

These trucks were far from perfect when new add 40 plus years and....

Thanks for your input. As far as the drip rails, I wont be driving this much or at all in the rain. The next truck I build will be more of an original, drive everyday sort of rig. But this one is for burn outs and sunny days.