1952 Project 1433

[jweb]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

I believe it's required where I live. Probably won't pass inspection without it.

You can use these cables from that bar to the back
http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/ebr...rakecable.html

You may be able to find the pedal and linkage for the front section used. The other option is using a Lokar pedal.

It looks like you can buy the linkage new:
http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-.../#.WNEzLNIrKM8

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jweb

You can use these cables from that bar to the back
http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/ebr...rakecable.html

You may be able to find the pedal and linkage for the front section used. The other option is using a Lokar pedal.

It looks like you can buy the linkage new:
http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-.../#.WNEzLNIrKM8

That Brake Control Rod looks interesting. I would need to take a closer look at the truck to see what parts I will need when the time comes. Thank you for the great links.

[NeoJuice]

I thought I would give TCI a call today to see if they would help me source some parts. Here is what I found out. The guy I talked to was a little hesitant to give up the information. I still don't know what kind of calipers or brake pads are on the front.

Front Shocks - 75-78 ford mustang or ford Pinto
Rear Shocks - 80-82 Corvette
Front Break Lines - late 70s Chevelle, el camino or malibu.

I also found online possibly the rear calipers I need w/shoes & springs

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Emerge...pers,1968.html

Does anyone have any other information on the TCI front end?

[jweb]

Most of the Mustang II suspensions with 11" rotors use a gm metric caliper. Since TCI mentions that their suspension includes GM big bore calipers, I would assume it would be like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...5003/overview/

Those are the calipers I have. I don't have TCI's front end but I would think yours are the same.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jweb

Most of the Mustang II suspensions with 11" rotors use a gm metric caliper. Since TCI mentions that their suspension includes GM big bore calipers, I would assume it would be like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...5003/overview/

Those are the calipers I have. I don't have TCI's front end but I would think yours are the same.

Thanks JWeb. Great information as usual.

Last night I tried to get the rear rotors off the rear end. I worked at it for over and hour and they wont come off.

I tried hitting them with a regular hammer, a machinist hammer with the point, my sledge hammer and they wont come off. So I hit the old YouTube and tried the bolt trick, but all that did was bend and pushed the rear backing plate out of the way so that didn't work.

Next thing I'm going to try is use a 6" Gear puller on it like below. If they don't come off LOL i'm not sure what I'm going to do.

[wolffcub]

some rotors are held on with a tapered head screw between the studs. What were you using for the bolt removal idea? how could you bend the backing plate when the bolt technique is supposed to push up against the axle face?

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by wolffcub

some rotors are held on with a tapered head screw between the studs. What were you using for the bolt removal idea? how could you bend the backing plate when the bolt technique is supposed to push up against the axle face?

This is the technique I used for the bolt technique.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMuHKDI00rw

As you can see in the picture below, the backing plate is pretty flimsy. I didn't use the caliper bolt you can see in the picture but there is another one behind the rotor I tried to use. The picture was taken the other day before my hammer did some real damage LOL.



I'm going to try the puller method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IQ8Hf2UiAE

[wolffcub]

That bolt technique is a great way to either bust off your caliper mounting tab or bend it, and if bent depending what caliper system you have the guide pins will not allow the caliper to float correctly.

A dead blow hammer and some rust penetrate fluid is all you should need to work it off.

[wolffcub]

looks like the previous owner even went all out and painted the rotor surfaces for you lol.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by wolffcub

looks like the previous owner even went all out and painted the rotor surfaces for you lol.

I'm going to pickup some penetrate fluid this weekend and a puller from princess auto. I hope they will then come off.

[Jyman]

Hey Neojuice,

Nice looking truck, I can't believe I missed seeing that one for sale. By the way I'm in Sherwood park. To answer your comment yes you will need a E-brake to pass inspection. Did I notice a GMC tailgate on your truck?

Jon

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by Jyman

Hey Neojuice,

Nice looking truck, I can't believe I missed seeing that one for sale. By the way I'm in Sherwood park. To answer your comment yes you will need a E-brake to pass inspection. Did I notice a GMC tailgate on your truck?

Jon

Jon, yes the box is off a GMC. I want to find someone I can swap tailgates with and hopefully match the original patina.

I bought the truck back in November. It's Been in storage all winter and finally got it into the new house. I got a little work done this weekend, I'll upload pictures tomorrow.

We are out in Beaumont now. What are you building? Got any leads on some parts?

[Jyman]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Jon, yes the box is off a GMC. I want to find someone I can swap tailgates with and hopefully match the original patina.

I bought the truck back in November. It's Been in storage all winter and finally got it into the new house. I got a little work done this weekend, I'll upload pictures tomorrow.

We are out in Beaumont now. What are you building? Got any leads on some parts?

There was a guy close to Beaumont that was collecting parts for his truck, but I don't think I have his contact info anymore. And Tailgates are really hard to find.

Im building a 1948 Chevy truck, with a s10 frame with disk brakes, 305HO, and a 5speed.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by Jyman

There was a guy close to Beaumont that was collecting parts for his truck, but I don't think I have his contact info anymore. And Tailgates are really hard to find.

Im building a 1948 Chevy truck, with a s10 frame with disk brakes, 305HO, and a 5speed.

Do you have a build thread going? If you want to check out the truck sometime let me know.

[wolffcub]

Originally Posted by Jyman

There was a guy close to Beaumont that was collecting parts for his truck, but I don't think I have his contact info anymore. And Tailgates are really hard to find.

Im building a 1948 Chevy truck, with a s10 frame with disk brakes, 305HO, and a 5speed.

You tossing out the original frame?

[NeoJuice]

Here is a small weekend update.

-Got the rear rotors off the truck. Even after soaking the sh*t out of them with penetration fluid the night before, I'll tell you it's a good thing I bought that 6" puller. Even with the puller when it started to get tight I had to use a snipe on the wrench. I honestly thought I was going to snap both of the rotors in half it was that bad and rusted.


-Firmly secured the B&M shifter to the floor inside the cab. I got the B&M shift bracket installed on the side of the transmission. Then when I went to install the cable bracket to the pan, I found out I didnt have the correct size alan key. So that ended that mission for now. The previous owner built this whole engine with alan key bolts!!!!

-Pulled the distributor and valve covers off and the fuel lines/log off the firewall. Then I checked with my oil pump priming tool & drill to see if there is any oil pressue. My oil pressure guage was reading about 50psi so I have good oil pressure and good amount of oil coming out of lifters. See the thing is, I bought the truck with the assumption that there was only a couple minutes of runtime and that it was a fresh rebuild. I wanted to see if there was oil pressure there because who knows when the last time the motor was actually running and I didnt want to have a dry start when the time comes.


-After pulling the distributor I pulled off the cap to check to see if it had points or been changed to electronic ignition and it was suprisingly. The PO didnt say anything about that. So now I have to decide if I get a whole new distributor or if I should just get a new cap, rotor and coil. The thing is for $139 I can get a whole new distributor. Buying the parts will probably cost me the same amount. I also couldnt find any referance on the pertronix website of the
34AD-v5 parts so that might be a good indication to get a new distributor.




-Hopefully this week I can get the rad drained and get the manifold taken off. I'm then going to swap on the holley manifold and get started on rebuilding the carb. I'm not sure how I'm going to do that as of yet, I was going to remove the automatic choke and take it to a shop and have it dipped to get it all cleaned up. What do you suggest?

That's all the update I have for now.

[Jyman]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Do you have a build thread going? If you want to check out the truck sometime let me know.

Sorry no build thread on the website for my truck, I keep thinking about but just never get time. I would be great to do that sometime as I do need to get a few measurement for the front bumper, and for the splash apron. As i need to make a splash apron one of these days.

Wolffcub - I haven't done anything with the old frame yet was thinking maybe saving it for a future build, but not sure yet

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by Jyman

Sorry no build thread on the website for my truck, I keep thinking about but just never get time. I would be great to do that sometime as I do need to get a few measurement for the front bumper, and for the splash apron. As i need to make a splash apron one of these days.

Wolffcub - I haven't done anything with the old frame yet was thinking maybe saving it for a future build, but not sure yet

If you want I have a spare front splash apron. I was going to post it on kijiji because I just took pictures of it. Let me know and I can email you some pictures. PM me.

[Jyman]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

If you want I have a spare front splash apron. I was going to post it on kijiji because I just took pictures of it. Let me know and I can email you some pictures. PM me.

pm sent your way

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by Jyman

pm sent your way

PM with pictures sent.

[NeoJuice]

Weekend update.

-First thing was to get the rad drained. Removed the top hose and temp probe from manifold. Started to remove all the bolts then found I also needed to remove the oil pressure sending unit because I couldn’t get to the rear last bolt on the manifold driver side.



Tri-Power setup has been sold.



-Next step was to get everything cleaned up and ready for the Holley street dominator manifold. We did some test fitting first before getting the new gaskets on and everything in place. Good thing we did this because the bolts that we used for the TRI-Power manifold won’t work on the middle manifold holes on either side. Either this is a ****ty designed manifold or I need to get new bolts that will work properly. As mentioned before everything was bolted together with hex/allen key bolts.




-I travelled down south on sunday 4-2-2017 and bought a nice bench seat out of a 1950 chevy pickup that was in damm good shape from a guy. Only one slit on the bottom of the bench seat. Also came with the frame & sliders. So that will be going in the truck once I get it all cleaned up & picked it up for $100. Down the road it will be get redone.



Thats all for now. I'm either going to get new bolts for the holly dominator or pickup a edelbrock manifold. I'll get that figured out this week.

[ptc]

You are probably not going to get a good Mallory or MSD distributor for $100 and most likely that $100 distributor is a cheap chinese knock off that will give you worlds of trouble. You should check out new parts for that Mallory one you have, why change it to Pertronix? probably just a cap and rotor is all it needs. They last forever.

Nice project you got going here.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by ptc

You are probably not going to get a good Mallory or MSD distributor for $100 and most likely that $100 distributor is a cheap chinese knock off that will give you worlds of trouble. You should check out new parts for that Mallory one you have, why change it to Pertronix? probably just a cap and rotor is all it needs. They last forever.

Nice project you got going here.

I'm going to price out what the replacement parts would cost to get a new rotor, cap and coil. Depending on that cost I might get a new MSD. I don't really want to deal with an external coil.

It was switched from points to Pertronix electronic ignition at some point in time and since MSD purchased Mallory. Who knows how long parts are going to be available for.

Thank you, the project is coming along slowly.

[CanadianKid]

Hello Neojuice,
Your truck is looking sweet, I really like the Patina.
CanadianKid

[NeoJuice]

Not to much of an update for this weekend. Went out and purchased a Edelbrock Performer EPS manifold and got it installed. Also will be starting the rebuild of the carb this week, then start to put everything back together. Thinking about picking up a new MSD distributor but havent decided yet. I dont know if I can trust the old Mallory or not.