Build that 71 402 already

[projectking]

Well, I don’t have a L but I do have a H on my ‘67 C10 Custom. and a D on my ‘68 GMC C&C which are both standard horns. Each of them have the circle on them where the H or L would be but are blank. The high/low horns I have from my ‘68 GMC Custom have H and L inside the circles. IMO you have a high and a standard horn.

[projectking]

I believe you were the one looking for an N bed bolt for your truck......I put one aside for you last summer I’ll locate it if your still needing it?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Wow, standard, low and high horns. Thanks for checking. And thanks for the offer, but I scored some "N" bolts off a board member.

Someday I'll have to ID my 72. I do I see two horns however, one mounted below the headlight, and one mounted using the fender to core support bracket that's shaped like a trumpet. Appears original, the truck has an aux. battery tray.

I may have to rethink the "J" being a low note horn. Not much info. out there and I can't find a "J" horn. Low must be "L" and high must be "H" seems to be an over-simplification across vehicles anyway. More than a few notes in the "sea shell" form.

http://www.delcoremyhistory.com/Products/horns.htm

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

These were removed from my project truck in 1993 when the engine was rebuilt. They were in a box of mystery parts that were also removed, mostly A/C stuff. They were only a mystery to me - didn't have a clue about most of it.

Be cool to hear someone else has these on their 71ish BBC. SBC chime in too. It's a transmission lines retainer, a dual spark plug wire retainer, which I'm pretty sure it uses a valve cover bolt, and a wire/hose retainer that takes a 3/8" bolt, maybe even a 7/16" bolt.

Edit: middle clip may be for thermostat

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

The powder coat place is backed up, but I'm giving someone else a shot, starting out with these parts................ Post helps me ID stuff

Received the hinges back from Willie, the hood parts powder coated. He did a nice job. Springs are NOS. For what it's worth, and since it's per Willie it has value, Sea Foam DC-14 Deep Creep Lubricant for hinges. Soak the hood hinges up good before install. He said my hinges were nice considering I never lubricated Guilty as charged.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Other than some details this is going NOWHERE. Don't mind the break, but come on. I checked on a different powder place and they won't work. The preferred PC shop is backed up "3-4 weeks" still, Painter is backed up too. No frame and no oil pan, can't very well build a truck. Real reason I posted is I didn't want to search for these again. Safe to say the transmissions were silver etc., but still some nice details.

Original engine bays:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=472154
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=367725&page=2

Incidentally, the intake manifold bolt business above, I ended up with NOS "M" bolts instead. I think there are more available on Ebay, nice bolts for a nice price. They have a regular recessed hex, not round like the OLD "M" bolts, but at least they'll all match. Anyone know if the original intake bolts were painted or were they just black phosphate? In other terms, were the blocks painted with the intake manifolds on?

[DeadheadNM]

Engine painted with the intake manifold and its bolts in place.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Engine painted with the intake manifold and its bolts in place.

I imagine so Deadhead, thank you. Not sure if I'm painting the new bolts, but I probably will. Pretty simple with a brush and nice affect too (POR15).

Good news today. I called the powder coating place and good timing. They have a break and the frame etc. goes in tomorrow. About time I start building this thing huh? Things are about to get REAL expensive

[68bowtie]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Things are about to get REAL expensive

That doesn't bother me a bit. Let's roll.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

That doesn't bother me a bit. Let's roll.

Roll is right. Dropped the parts off then visited Hot August for a hint of what's there. A ton of amazing cars and trucks. Quite a few 67-72 Chevy P/U, people like them a lot, high show or not. Some decent originals, and a NICE 67 SWB mod. Sorry no pics, I need a smart phone (gulp). I can't quite taste it yet. 2020 or I quit

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Had the frame, cross members, A/C brackets and some other powder coated for the first run. $1150, and well worth it. Better than new. Along with some other stamps, until today I didn't realize they punched two serial numbers into the frame.

Dropped the axle off for the once over too. They're setting me up with a 1-piece shaft.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I forgot to ask the powder coat to spare the axle cover surface, but COME ON, the place has been in business since forever. At least they sealed up the threads.

I used a 40ish grit pad and paint stripper wheel on a drill. I was lost how to hit the area around the "breather"? ports, but ended up doing it with paint remover, very carefully. Did the job, came out nice.

If that's a 9-71 date code on that gear, which I imagine it is, then the original owner replaced the gears. He likeed towing and that. Drives nice IMO, so I left as is. I must have $700 into an axle I hadn't originally planned for HA! - she's a money pit. An axle shop freshened it up.

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I forgot to ask the powder coat to spare the axle cover surface, but COME ON, the place has been in business since forever. At least they sealed up the threads.

I used a 40ish grit pad and paint stripper wheel on a drill. I was lost how to hit the area around the "breather"? ports, but ended up doing it with paint remover, very carefully. Did the job, came out nice.

If that's a 9-71 date code on that gear, which I imagine it is, then the original owner replaced the gears. He likeed towing and that. Drives nice IMO, so I left as is. I must have $700 into an axle I hadn't originally planned for HA! - she's a money pit. An axle shop freshened it up.

Looking good as always...hope this project hasn't driven you to smoking

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

Looking good as always...hope this project hasn't driven you to smoking

Ha, thanks, no I quit If only I can get my son here to move the frame and install the engine cross member. Don't want to scratch things up The new game is hurry up and wait, though there's always something to do. Think I rec'd all the rear suspension pending review.

Here's something you don't see everyday.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I like the black zinc with the powder coat. The original bolts were in a good way, as were the unique washers, so I just replaced the nuts and lock washers. Searching for hardware and editing my manual is no fun. Finishing something is.

New ECE rear suspension received, but bolts pending, and turns out I need the original upper and lower U-bolt plates. I thought they were replaceable, maybe they are, but word is use what you have if good. New drop spindles holding up the front, because they come unfinished. Money pit.

Tony screwed up. I can't get the painter to finish my oil pan much less a ton of parts that I've yet brought him for black satin. I guess that's what happens when he's the best and family. .............Anyway I'd like the A/C bracket to intake manifold done so I can finish the engine, so I jumped the gun and had my A/C brackets powder coated.

Don't do that I read 200 degrees or look for another finish. Can't say what the surface temperature is on a BBC, but bet your (*^* the exhaust manifolds are hotter, and one bracket connects to the exhaust manifold. If that were it fine, but I suspect a cast iron intake and block are in the neighborhood of 200 degrees ??? So I believe I'm removing powder coat from all my A/C brackets..........

At least nothing else was done near the block. False assumption on my part PC would withstand heat. Input welcome.

[68bowtie]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I like the black zinc with the powder coat. The original bolts were in a good way, as were the unique washers, so I just replaced the nuts and lock washers. Searching for hardware and editing my manual is no fun. Finishing something is.

New ECE rear suspension received, but bolts pending, and turns out I need the original upper and lower U-bolt plates. I thought they were replaceable, maybe they are, but word is use what you have if good. New drop spindles holding up the front, because they come unfinished. Money pit.

Tony screwed up. I can't get the painter to finish my oil pan much less a ton of parts that I've yet brought him for black satin. I guess that's what happens when he's the best and family. .............Anyway I'd like the A/C bracket to intake manifold done so I can finish the engine, so I jumped the gun and had my A/C brackets powder coated.

Don't do that I read 200 degrees or look for another finish. Can't say what the surface temperature is on a BBC, but bet your (*^* the exhaust manifolds are hotter, and one bracket connects to the exhaust manifold. If that were it fine, but I suspect a cast iron intake and block are in the neighborhood of 200 degrees ??? So I believe I'm removing powder coat from all my A/C brackets..........

At least nothing else was done near the block. False assumption on my part PC would withstand heat. Input welcome.

Interesting. What did they coat them with from the factory? Nothing?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

Interesting. What did they coat them with from the factory? Nothing?

Couldn't tell you.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I take it back, I suspect everything was painted satin black with ??? The top bracket appears to be the exception, which may have just been a phosphate coating.

Here are my A/C brackets. They sat in a box for approaching 25 years, and I know they were never refinished. I mounted them for a dry run.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

After talking to a guy with great experience, "we" decided to leave the powder coat on the A/C brackets and timing plate. Exception being the bracket on the exhaust manifold. Time will tell, but for now I'm relieved. Means I can install the timing chain cover, harmonic and intake. Still don't have my oil pan

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Just simple this and that's on my truck of late...... I'm trying to wrap up a landscape job.

Finally installed my harmonic and timing cover. Oil pan due any day now, and my rear suspension is pending me for powder coat. So yeah, awfully short on assembly so far.

I picked up new shackles for the rear leaf springs. The shackles were a bit scraped up, so I used Eastwood's "phosphate paint" and etch primer I picked up for the bench seat brackets.

If it holds up I'll be happy as a clam. It's very close to phosphate coating, even for the trained eye. Nearly feels like phosphate. Traces of "bling" as well, but the pics didn't pick it up.

On a side, somehow I thought the parts on these trucks were primarily Manganese phosphate. That's wrong. Per this website, they're Zinc phosphate. http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/new_page_26.htm

I should probably check this stuff out before I go painting Per this website, zinc phosphate makes for a nice under surface for powder coat. Strikes me that would apply to paints as well. Time will tell. https://www.pfonline.com/articles/zi...s-zinc-plating

The first website reads zinc phosphate is phosphate and oil ON TOP of a zinc base plating. Yet the second website reads zinc plating is more resistant to corrosion than zinc phosphate Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Making some headway and learning a lot.

U-bolt torque? Kind of a mystery, too many variables. Nearest I can tell from reading the MAX. is 93-100 ft. lbs. for grade 8 9/16" U-bolts with saddles and plates. Best to use oil, or better yet anti-seize. I'm at 75 lbs., it feels like I'll be good @ 78-85.

Figure I got an oil pan yet? I love the guy, he's family, but I better flash some motivational cash, and he runs spensive. It's the price he charges on reputation, honest for real. He's great, but if you want your stuff done bring cash, and he's right on it.......................I only say that because he may end up finishing body/paint. Without asking, he's motivated by 18-20K. That's with a dry run and the moldings assembled, but the bed is 95% already done, and the rest is a solid foundation.

Oh well Be nice to finish in two years.

[DeepOceanStepside]

Awesome build!!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Thanks DOS.

Learning a lot. I've only installed one side of brake tube past, at the master cyl. Clearly, the reason a nut won't tighten is the flange isn't dead nuts over the nipple.

If you ask me, all ends but one required some bending, exception being to the LH wheel cyl. I don't have a bender less a pair of pliers, so for the most part I bent them by hand while they were positioned in the retainers. Got the axle shafts installed too. Close to running out of things to do pending an engine pan, rebuilt e-brake cables and transmission rebuild, but there always seems to be something to do.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Well I've done my first brake job. Few things I've learned. 1. Don't buy Dorman's spring kit it's junk. The caps don't lock onto the springs and their front shoe return springs are wrong, so I used my old ones. I didn't have to replace the drum shoes, or anything else rear brakes. Truth is, I like the shoes I pulled off better

I also learned I'll NEVER spray bomb my axle hubs again. Thought I did everything right, but the paint chips too easily. No big, let em chip. They were a gloss finish, but as you can see I didn't like the sheen

I took the notes below, which come from various sources of information. But for a quick down and dirty, this guy's web page helped me a BUNCH. It's one thing to take them off, it was another to install them. http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake

_________________________________________________________________________________________________

Rear Brakes and Parking Brake Lever

• The wheel cylinders are not interchangeable. Insert the wheel cylinder into the hole in the backing plate. The fitting for the brake tube nut faces the rear, and the bleeder is on top. NOTE: The stamps on the cylinders removed from this truck were (LH is 7565 6), (RH is 7565 1). In a mounted position, the "Made in USA" stamp on these is upside down.

• The wheel cylinder mounts onto the backing plate using two 3/8" flange hex screws with integrated star washers. The screw threads are 5/16-18 x 1/2. NOTE: The screws are stamped "B&H".

Rear Brakes & Parking Brakes Bench Assembly

• Lubricate the exterior of the rear parking brake cables with silicone.

• The brake shoes are not interchangeable front to back. The rear brake shoe has more brake pad coverage than the front brake shoe. The top of the shoes have a half circle to form around the anchor shaft.

• The parking brake levers are not interchangeable. The slot in the lever for the strut faces forward. The clevis pin on the parking brake lever inserts through the back of the rear shoe using the top hole in the shoe. Order of assembly from the inside out: Clevis pin on parking brake lever > anti-rattle wave washer (domed portion faces the lever (I think) > rear shoe > E-clip. NOTES: Brake grease can be used to lubricate the contact areas where the clevis pin attaches to the brake shoe.

• The brakes adjusters are not interchangeable. The caps pull off to reveal the correct adjuster (stamped L or R). A thin washer fits between the adjuster gear and cap. The brake adjusters have prongs on each end to secure the adjusters between the bottoms of each shoe. The prongs on the cap side of adjuster fits onto the rear shoe. NOTES: Brake grease is an option to lubricate the cap shaft and threads. Facing the axle hub turn the brake adjuster gear (“star”) toward you to expand the brake shoes adding pressure against brake drum.

• The brake shoes link spring is 3.1/16" long from one end of the hook to the other. The spring attaches to the bottom hole of each shoe. The longest hook inserts through the back of the rear shoe, and the shortest hook inserts through the face of the front shoe. The spring must avoid contact with the brake adjuster gear.

Rear Brakes & Parking Brakes Wheel Assembly

• Lightly lubricate the six contact points on the backing plate where the shoes meet the plate. Anti-seize is an option. Do not get grease on the brake pads.

• Insert the push rods into the brake cylinder. The prongs on the push rods position vertically so the shoes insert into the prongs. The top of the shoes will fit onto the base of the anchor. Check these fittings as the brakes are assembled.

• Insert the parking brake cable onto the hook on the bottom of the parking brake lever. The cable fits onto the hook between the cable spring and cable nut. Place the shoes onto backing plate.

• The front shoe hold-down spring is 1.1/2" long and more narrow on one end. This spring is generally green. Insert the hold-down cap into the rear hold-down spring. Insert the hold-down pin through the backing plate and brake shoe. Place a flat washer between the spring and backing plate. Push the spring in and twist the cap over the pin to lock. The cap is indented to secure the prongs on the pin end.

• The pivots are not interchangeable, one is stamped “R” the other “L”. The pivot has three hooks. One hook inserts through the back of the brake adjuster lever. The pivot only hooks on one way; the longest hook will be on top and facing rear. The brake adjuster levers are not interchangeable. The contact point on the lever is placed onto the face of the rear shoe. The hole in the lever lines up to the hole in the rear shoe located third from the bottom. NOTE: You can use brake grease to lubricate the contact points for the pivot and brake adjuster lever.

• Insert the rear shoe hold down funnel washer into the hole on the face of the brake adjuster lever.

• The rear shoe hold-down spring is 1.1/16" long. This spring is generally light blue. Install the pin and spring the same as that for the front shoe; however the rear shoe uses the funnel washer instead of a flat washer.

• The strut plate has two prongs on each end. The longest prongs face forward. The rear prongs are two different widths. Position the strut plate so the widest rear prong faces the backing plate. The orientation must allow clearance for the adjuster link.

o A 1.1/4” strut spring slides onto the front prongs on the strut. There’s a “handle” on one end of this spring. Insert the handle end of the spring onto the strut with the handle positioned up nearest the brake cylinder. The spring’s handle contacts the face of the front shoe. The strut plate inserts between the slot in the parking brake lever and the front shoe.

• The guide plate fits onto the anchor nearly making contact with the top face of the brake shoes. If it's supposed to make contact with the shoes I'm all ears. See third image

• The brake adjuster lever return spring is 1" long. Place this spring onto the tab on the brake adjuster lever. The spring fits between the lever and the rear brake shoe.

• The brake adjuster links are not interchangeable. The bend in the link must clear the brake cylinder. The "eye" portion of the adjuster link fits onto the anchor with the hook on the top end positioned to the rear and facing out. The other end hooks onto the top hook on the pivot.

• The adjuster lever override spring is 3.1/4" inches long from one end of the hook to the other. The spring’s "Z" hook inserts into the hole on the face of the adjuster lever. The other end attaches to the pivot’s rear hook. The hook attaches onto the pivot from underneath on the passenger side, and from above on the driver’s side. NOTE: Be sure the “Z” end on the spring correctly oriented. The length of the spring’s coils should be flush or nearly flush against face of the adjuster lever. This spring is tuff, though a flathead screwdriver works.

• The front return spring is 5.1/8” long from one end of the hook to the other. These springs are generally gray. The spring’s “L” hook inserts into the hole on the face of the front shoe above the strut. The longer end hooks onto the anchor placed outside of the adjuster link. The spring hooks onto the anchor from underneath on the passenger side, and from above on the driver’s side.

• The rear return spring is 3.3/4" long from end of the hook to the other. These springs are generally black. The shortest hook inserts into the hole on the face of the rear shoe above the pivot, and the longest one hooks onto the hook on top of the adjuster link. The spring hooks onto the adjuster link from above on the passenger side, and from below on the driver’s side.

Brake drums and brakes adjustment: Clean the inside of new drums to remove the oil that was applied for rust prevention. The brake drum seats over the axle hub. As a starting point, adjust the brakes so the drums move with slight resistance. The brakes are self-adjusting, which occurs when the parking brake is applied or the brakes are applied when traveling in reverse.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Some things are worth the wait.