My new project truck!

['68OrangeSunshine]

I hope you're keeping those cool West Coast Jr mirrors. They have the absolute best rearward visibility of any RVMs. Almost impossible for a cop to sneak up on you. Ignore the rush of air as you exceed 40 MPH -- it's a manly sound. Tiny little girl-car mirrors may present less of an aerodynamic drag profile, but you're driving a brick with a motor anyway, so why worry about it?
I've had them on my '68 C/10 Stepside since I bought it in 1973, and I'll never change them out. I'd put them on my '71 Jimmy, but it has a fiberglas top and wouldn't go.
Anyway great progress on your

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I hope you're keeping those cool West Coast Jr mirrors. They have the absolute best rearward visibility of any RVMs. Almost impossible for a cop to sneak up on you. Ignore the rush of air as you exceed 40 MPH -- it's a manly sound. Tiny little girl-car mirrors may present less of an aerodynamic drag profile, but you're driving a brick with a motor anyway, so why worry about it?
I've had them on my '68 C/10 Stepside since I bought it in 1973, and I'll never change them out. I'd put them on my '71 Jimmy, but it has a fiberglas top and wouldn't go.
Anyway great progress on your

I am on the fence about that right now. The mount bar would need rechroming, and the mirrors would possibly have to be replaced with new ones.
Still thinking...

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by HIGHWAY BY THE SEA

I am on the fence about that right now. The mount bar would need rechroming, and the mirrors would possibly have to be replaced with new ones.
Still thinking...

Mounting new mirrored glass is nothing to a window shop. Think about White [factory color for non-chromed WCjr mirrors] or body color. Chroming can get spendy, and these days it's harder to find chrome shops as many were closed down by environmental agencies.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

The truck has finally been equipped with all-new brakes! It took a month of scrounging the country for parts, but it is at end now.







It did not stay at home long though. After the brake shop delivered it to my house, I drove it to the muffler shop since it does not have one (had to saw it off due to dragging the ground).

[Andy4639]

Looking good sir. I'm planning on driving the ramp truck down to Myrtle beach Monday for the car show if you can get up that way next weekend 21-23.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

This truck finally has a muffler now! I finally removed the junky, rusty, dented all to hell front end.



Yikes! That thing was rust flakes holding hands



Newer mostly rust-free radiator core support installed.



Bye, Bye old rusty doors!!



What is behind door number 1?



What is behind door number 2?



This is what is behind doors number one and two! A better seat! This one does not grind metal and stab you when you sit on it.



Installed better fender



Hood latch install

[68Gold/white]

Looks like progress!!!
You might be able to buy a seat cover from one of the seat cover suppliers here. Just install it over what you have there...would work....

[Andy4639]

Looking good sir! I drove mine in to Garden City today for the show this weekend. 5hr drive got a whopping 12 MPG running 55/60 all the way here. It did fine no problems other than oil vapor smell had to keep the window down the whole way. I'm glad I fixed the heater last weekend.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by HIGHWAY BY THE SEA

This truck finally has a muffler now! I finally removed the junky, rusty, dented all to hell front end.



Yikes! That thing was rust flakes holding hands



Newer mostly rust-free radiator core support installed.



Bye, Bye old rusty doors!!



What is behind door number 1?



What is behind door number 2?



This is what is behind doors number one and two! A better seat! This one does not grind metal and stab you when you sit on it.



Installed better fender



Hood latch install

Are you keeping your West Coast Junior Mirrors?

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Are you keeping your West Coast Junior Mirrors?

I might, but have not given it much thought yet. Right now I am concentrating on trying to get the new front clip assembled!

[Andy4639]

First picture is when we got here. Here is the ramp truck sitting in the yard as of Tuesday afternoon here in Garden City. The second is this morning waiting on the clouds to clear and take the plastic off to head up to the show.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Fitted the left fender and adjusted the door.


Fixed the dash hole in which the ignition fits. it was all bent up from some MORON who tried to start the truck before I ever saw it. He had bent up the dash hole and ripped out the old ignition switch so that the switch would not seat correctly and kept spinning. I used two large washers with a large bolt and nut to squeeze it flat from its flared-out mis-shape and installed this brand new ignition key switch and great condition retention ring.


Installed this new door lock that matches the ignition switch. It has two GM keys too.


Installed glove box insert and door. What a pain in the butt THAT was!



Installed the factory cigarette lighter and wire.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Looking good. Did the delivery guy ding your brand new '67 fender?

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Looking good. Did the delivery guy ding your brand new '67 fender?

That is not a brand new fender. It is one of the fenders from the front clip pictured in post #29 that I have since painted. They came off of a 67 C10. Those dings and a few rust spots will be fixed by the body shop in the future.

['68OrangeSunshine]

OK. Cool. The black paint fooled me. It looked the same as the EDP primer aftermarket body parts are shipped in.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Yesterday I drove upstate to see my parts source. I bought a very good condition inner heater box ($10) and two amazingly rust-free inner fenders for the 67 GMC ($40).

Here is my old heater box. It was crushed on one end, but I am not sure how that happened. And it was full of rust (no surprise).


Here is the newer one. It has the heater switch box that I recently restored attached to it in this picture.


Newer one installed.


Rust-free inner fenders. My old ones were worse than I thought after I removed them.

[Andy4639]

Your making head way sir. Good to see it coming along nicely.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Could not resist throwing this one in there! The 67 GMC charged its very first cell phone today!

[68Gold/white]

I'm guessing you have not got new tires???

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

I'm guessing you have not got new tires???

You guessed correctly! I probably will not do that until I get the six matching rims that I have been trying to find. Right now is front clip and electrical repair time. I also need to figure out how to adjust the carb since it is running rich.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Just installed the grill on the 67 GMC today. Since it was a 72 grill I had to remove the top "adaptor" from it by breaking those pop-rivets loose. It looks SO much better than the old battered-up one.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Nice looking grille. If you wanted to be a 1967 Model Year Purist, you could paint the grille white and headlamp bezels black. Mounting the G-M-C letters on the front grille would be difficult. It would look cool. But getting the truck back on the road is probably more of a priority, I'm guessing. No one would blame you for quitting while you're ahead with a grille like that. Maybe MY '68 letters on the hood. ['69s-and-later letters might have the wrong angle to the hood. IDK]

[jcramsey]

I like this truck! Confirms what I was already planning in my head...really wanting to do a 67-68 cab swap one day on the Dodge D350 dually flatbed I just picked up.

I'll keep an eye out for you around town when you get it on the road.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Well, last night I was able to get the rear lights working for the very first time...sort of. As some on here know, I have been trying to figure out why the rear lights do not work on this truck for some time now. I was going to take the truck to an electrical mechanic, but some very wise members on here advised me to take another look at the issue, and I did so. I ended up removing the fuses from the fuse box and examining them that way rather than visually, and testing them while they were still installed. It was here that I found that there was hidden rust on some of the fuses where they were clamped into place by those metal contact clips. The clips had some hidden rust too. So one by one I removed each one, Dremel tooled them, and their corresponding contacts, and replaced them. The gauge lights started working again (they had stopped a few weeks ago) and the following happened:
I turned on the light switch and tried the hazard switch. The rear lights came on steady, and the gauge illumination lights blinked.
I tried the left blinker with the headlights on and the left front blinker worked, as did the left rear one.
The weird dash light blinking issue stopped as suddenly as it started, so I have no idea on that one yet.
So the rear lights came on ONLY when I first tried the hazards (no blinking) but technically still do not light when the headlight switch is pulled.
Just today I went to a salvage yard and returned with the budd wheels I need for a complete set, and scored a better GMC lighting harness. More updates to follow as I work through this strange electrical flux.

[68Gold/white]

LOL, quit bragging, we are all tired of hearing it!!!

JUST KIDDING!!!

Glad for all the good things!!! I harass you here, and neither of my awesome pickups have engines or transmissions in them... LOL on me!!!

To adjust the carb, find the mixture screws on the bottom of the cab base plate, facing forward.
Carefully screw them all the way in, CAREFULLY, counting how many turns they go in.

Then remove them, shoot some spray carb cleaner in the holes. Use some scotchbrite to polish and clean the tips of the mixture screws. THEN install the screws all the way, carefully, and back them out to where they were before you started.

Now start the engine, needs to be at operating temperature. One at a time screw them in till the engine speed starts to slow down. Back that screw out a 1/4 turn. Then do other screw, same. That should help...

Having an older well used engine there is no telling where the screws will be properly adjusted to. If they are both close to the same, and around 2 turns out, that's not a bad place to be.

Remember to NEVER use gasoline with ANY ethanol in your older carb'd vehicles, if you have a choice, some states only sell E-10