Project "Ghost of Poseidon" - 1972 C10 Pro-touring

[TA_C10]

I like that idea of that flat style filter. Makes for a smaller sleeker design. Is your box designed for driver or passenger side? And I'm assuming it's 4" diameter?

Truck looks great man

.

[siggyfreud]

Right now it's driver side, but I could print a mirror of it most likely for passenger. Yep 4" outlet. Are most intake tubes 4" OD or ID. I was going to buy one but figured many of you might have one lying around already.

[siggyfreud]

Starting installing my Altman latches that I purchased about a year ago. Got the driver side done today. Was pretty straight forward and they work well. My only complaint is that the button and handle to open feel a little stiff. The door closes pretty easily, but the "pop" to open it feels harder than it should be.

Installation was fairly smooth. At first I started with a 3" cutter, but that was taking too long so I tried my 4.5". While that cuts fast, the many of the areas are too small for the blade. So I decided to stop being an idiot and I just got out the plasma cutter and finished it. I'll do the passenger side with the plasma from the get go as that will go way faster.

All the bolts go in pretty easy, however one is a little tricky, but only because I didn't realize you're supposed to unbolt the latch mechanism before installing the plate. They come preinstalled in the package, and the instructions don't allude to separating them until after you've put the plate in.

All in all I'm happy with it. Might try a little more adjustment to get the opening a bit easier, but it's not terrible as is. I think the striker needs to come out further honestly, but I'm as far out as I can get it currrently.

[siggyfreud]

And passenger side completed as well.

[Ol Blue K20]

They look nice...

[TA_C10]

I really wanted to purchase these but didn't. How well do they work and would you recommend? And what total amount of hours do you have installing them?

Thanks!

[siggyfreud]

They work really well so far. At first the button press/level pull to open the door was tight, but the do loosen up as the wear in a bit.

I would recommend them yes. I think you can replicate 80% of what they provide with fresh hinges and a really good door alignment, but I feel like the extra 20% allows them to close even softer. I push as hard as I do on any new car now, versus that extra push I used to need. I also don't have 5 shims stacked behind my door plate anymore which is nice.

I'd say for both sides it was about 6 hours total. My door panels, arm rest, and handles were mostly already off. If you're aren't factor another hour into it.

Would recommend before you do body and paint. Unless you get the upgraded plates they both come in unpainted steel. My the sill plates had a tad bit of surface rust so I painted them flat black. Eventually both plates will come back off for powdercoating.

If you buy the upgrades the door part is still steel, but the door sill plate is polished aluminum I believe.

I also wish I had replaced my door level mechanism at the same time, but easy enough to do later one. I think it would be even smoother then.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

They work really well so far. At first the button press/level pull to open the door was tight, but the do loosen up as the wear in a bit.

I would recommend them yes. I think you can replicate 80% of what they provide with fresh hinges and a really good door alignment, but I feel like the extra 20% allows them to close even softer. I push as hard as I do on any new car now, versus that extra push I used to need. I also don't have 5 shims stacked behind my door plate anymore which is nice.

I'd say for both sides it was about 6 hours total. My door panels, arm rest, and handles were mostly already off. If you're aren't factor another hour into it.

Would recommend before you do body and paint. Unless you get the upgraded plates they both come in unpainted steel. My the sill plates had a tad bit of surface rust so I painted them flat black. Eventually both plates will come back off for powdercoating.

If you buy the upgrades the door part is still steel, but the door sill plate is polished aluminum I believe.

I also wish I had replaced my door level mechanism at the same time, but easy enough to do later one. I think it would be even smoother then.

Door Level Mechanism?

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Door Level Mechanism?

I think Trique calls it a door regulator in their instructions, so perhaps thats the actual name of the part. It's the right side piece in this photo. I couldn't remember the name of the piece so I just winged it .

[Scurry67]

I’ve been looking into these door latches too. The reviews online seem like it’s a great upgrade. Will you seam seal the new latch panel joint along the door? Did it affect your door gap/alignment at all?

Looking good!

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by Scurry67

I’ve been looking into these door latches too. The reviews online seem like it’s a great upgrade. Will you seam seal the new latch panel joint along the door? Did it affect your door gap/alignment at all?

Looking good!

Not sure yet honestly. I may just 3d print a thin gasket for it. Or may do something more permanent before body and paint.

It didn't seem to affect the gap/alignment at all. It's as good (or bad) as it was before. Trique even points out that this won't hurt or fix alignment problems, it'll just make it much easier to open and close assuming door alignment and hinges are in good working order.

[Scurry67]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

Not sure yet honestly. I may just 3d print a thin gasket for it. Or may do something more permanent before body and paint.

It didn't seem to affect the gap/alignment at all. It's as good (or bad) as it was before. Trique even points out that this won't hurt or fix alignment problems, it'll just make it much easier to open and close assuming door alignment and hinges are in good working order.

Are you using the original door seals or are you replacing them? I read a few threads that it can still be tough to shut with new seals around the door.

[Scurry67]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

Not sure yet honestly. I may just 3d print a thin gasket for it. Or may do something more permanent before body and paint.

It didn't seem to affect the gap/alignment at all. It's as good (or bad) as it was before. Trique even points out that this won't hurt or fix alignment problems, it'll just make it much easier to open and close assuming door alignment and hinges are in good working order.

Are you using the original door seals or are you replacing them? I read a few threads that it can still be tough to shut with new seals around the door.

[siggyfreud]

I have new snap-on style door seals. The driver side shuts pretty easily, the passenger side is a little harder. I attribute that to not using the passenger side as much, and the seal not setting as nicely.

I haven't had any other style seal on these, so I can't really attest to whether the original glue-on style would be easier or not.

I find the driver side door very easy to close though. I'll take a video for you all.

[siggyfreud]

Did some welding and exhaust work today, along with some 3D printing. I cut the back half of the exhaust off some time ago because I didn't like it. I replaced the mufflers with a couple of BORLA units, but didn't run any tailpipes for awhile. Decided to rectify that.

I got some carbon tips, and then 3D printed some trim rings for them. I need to up the outside diameter slightly to fill the gap fully, but this gives you an idea of how it'll look.









No trim ring:




Trim ring (a little too small but close):

[siggyfreud]

Some finish sanding to do, but the revised version came out perfect in fit:

BEFORE:



AFTER:

[1971Stepside]

Looks great!

[Kronald_70GMC]

[TA_C10]

[tigerchevelle]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

Hey there.

I'll have to measure the wheel wells, I forget what the measurements are on them.

Axle has not been shortened. Yeah it's a 70.5+ axle, so wider than the previous incarnation.

Here are my measurements I took for my wheels. They give you the details on how much back and front spacing I have. Hub and caliper specs are unique to my axles and Baer brakes.

"Wheels ordered!

Going with the Forgeline ML3C in a pearl grey. I really like how they look on the site, so just going with that.

"20x11 fronts with a 6.75" BS, 20x12 rears with a 7.75" BS"

Just for clarity,is this the Backspace you chose on post #40?
Looking to run the same wheel and tire size you have but I have a 70 c10 swb.
Axle is out of a 70 c10 longbed with leafs that I'm welding on the mounts for the truck arms.
Any help would be appreciated.
Phil

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tigerchevelle

"Wheels ordered!

Going with the Forgeline ML3C in a pearl grey. I really like how they look on the site, so just going with that.

"20x11 fronts with a 6.75" BS, 20x12 rears with a 7.75" BS"

Just for clarity,is this the Backspace you chose on post #40?
Looking to run the same wheel and tire size you have but I have a 70 c10 swb.
Axle is out of a 70 c10 longbed with leafs that I'm welding on the mounts for the truck arms.
Any help would be appreciated.
Phil

You really need to validate the measurements on your specific vehicle. Every different part installed can change vs. a similar (but different) combo. You can use the numbers he listed to have an idea of a possible range but need to measure your truck to know the hard numbers.

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You really need to validate the measurements on your specific vehicle. Every different part installed can change vs. a similar (but different) combo. You can use the numbers he listed to have an idea of a possible range but need to measure your truck to know the hard numbers.

I second this advice.

The wheel sizes I ended up with are in that post, yes. 20x11 fronts with a 6.75" BS, 20x12 rears with a 7.75" BS.

But I'd 100% measure it myself, especially when ordering custom wheels you can't return.

Also note that the fronts WILL interfere with the shock mount. And they will likely interfere with aftermarket lower control arms sway bar mount unless you relocate it like I did.

If you're not wanting to mess with that I'd go at least an inch narrower in the fronts, but again, measure it!

Also keep in mind that your rear end might be narrower depending on if it's an early or late 70', which will affect the offset you need.

I wanted wide tires on all 4 corners for two reasons. One, to increase braking performance by having a wider front pad. And two because a square stance is supposed to help counter understeer, which we have loads of in these.

Hope that helps.

[tigerchevelle]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

I second this advice.

The wheel sizes I ended up with are in that post, yes. 20x11 fronts with a 6.75" BS, 20x12 rears with a 7.75" BS.

But I'd 100% measure it myself, especially when ordering custom wheels you can't return.

Also note that the fronts WILL interfere with the shock mount. And they will likely interfere with aftermarket lower control arms sway bar mount unless you relocate it like I did.

If you're not wanting to mess with that I'd go at least an inch narrower in the fronts, but again, measure it!

Also keep in mind that your rear end might be narrower depending on if it's an early or late 70', which will affect the offset you need.

I wanted wide tires on all 4 corners for two reasons. One, to increase braking performance by having a wider front pad. And two because a square stance is supposed to help counter understeer, which we have loads of in these.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the info,yes as stated in know I should measure my truck,just wanted base line numbers to start with,I did this with my 72 chevelle and the norm for 70-72 with certain components a 315 sq,front 10.0 or 10.5 wide 5.5 bs, rears 10.00,11.00 wide,6.00 bs 315 30 18 clears fine I've seen as a trend most of the times the numbers are close,the we double check to make sure it fits.
Thanks for sharing!��
Btw what is your rear,axle flange to flange? Thanks!

[tigerchevelle]

Also as a note,when I had my wheels built my buddy was friends with the owners of intro wheels and they gave me a wheel center and hoop,that weren't welded,and I could play with the bs.

[siggyfreud]

It should be 63 3/4", but I honestly never measured it. I had a tool that simulated different wheel sizes and threw a different tire sizes on it to test so I didn't really need to take that measurement specifically.