55.2-59 my '59 short bed build

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by Kula57

Looks like you have quite a bit of room under there, I have the frame mounted master so not sure how that will work. but keep it up and keep the pics coming also.

thanks

plenty of room for a MC under there. i went with the firewall mount to get it up higher, just in case this thing ever gets in water up to the floor boards...

[1-ton of fun]

Got its shoes on!

[rgunlock]

Lookin good!

[Kula57]

aurite, great look, what did you decide on for the tire size? exciting!

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by Kula57

aurite, great look, what did you decide on for the tire size? exciting!

35x12.50x17

[1-ton of fun]

I think I’m going to add one of these, 60” long, to stop and rear axle wrap without disturbing articulation much at all:

https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/WFO-T...Arm-Kits/16947

[_Ogre]

you have a lot of fab skilz, why buy when you can make for a lot less $$$?

no need for any heim joint unless you want an adjustable pinion angle
no need for any type of rubber mount on the axle either
solid welded/bolted to the axle with the front shackle is all you need
ideal length for the torque arm is as long as the drive shaft to have the same pivot point

truk is on stock springs still, axle wrap would run the driveshaft into a frame x-member
my trans am rearend housing had a boss for the factory torque arm to bolt to
i used a trailer shackle up front for the front mount

if you google 'torque arm design' most attach rigidly to the rear end

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

you have a lot of fab skilz, why buy when you can make for a lot less $$$?

no need for any heim joint unless you want an adjustable pinion angle
no need for any type of rubber mount on the axle either
solid welded/bolted to the axle with the front shackle is all you need
ideal length for the torque arm is as long as the drive shaft to have the same pivot point

truk is on stock springs still, axle wrap would run the driveshaft into a frame x-member
my trans am rearend housing had a boss for the factory torque arm to bolt to
i used a trailer shackle up front for the front mount

if you google 'torque arm design' most attach rigidly to the rear end

it needs a heim at the front connection i think to help with axle articulation. the suspension has 14" of travel in it (shock limited)

but you are right, i could probably just buy the DOM, and some axle brackets, and fab it up for less than the kit. the 1 stop shopping is the temptation with that kit...

[dsraven]

try welders series for diy parts. everything you may need. also, CAD so USD buys more for less. brackets, tubing, threaded tubing cut to lengths, joints, bushings, all kinds of fab stuff.

[_Ogre]

any torque arm needs articulation. your 14 inch travel is still limited by the length of driveshaft slip into the trans. most movement is in the rear spring shackle or 3 link if you go that way. the spring shackle at the front of the torque bar takes up any movement that is also limited by driveshaft travel. i used a trailer spring shackle for spring movement. no need for any heim joints

you could make your own shackle with a little flat bar and tubing with these

[_Ogre]

this is a pic of what you want to buy. if you make your own, no need for universal fit as the kits do.
the points in red should be welded solid. the blue is where i have a trailer spring shackle,
using the rubber in the pic above and make your own shackle

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

any torque arm needs articulation. your 14 inch travel is still limited by the length of driveshaft slip into the trans. most movement is in the rear spring shackle or 3 link if you go that way. the spring shackle at the front of the torque bar takes up any movement that is also limited by driveshaft travel. i used a trailer spring shackle for spring movement. no need for any heim joints

you could make your own shackle with a little flat bar and tubing with these

i meant side to side, not up and down.

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

this is a pic of what you want to buy. if you make your own, no need for universal fit as the kits do.
the points in red should be welded solid. the blue is where i have a trailer spring shackle,
using the rubber in the pic above and make your own shackle

yes i get what you're saying. i will explore that route. thanks

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

this is a pic of what you want to buy. if you make your own, no need for universal fit as the kits do.
the points in red should be welded solid. the blue is where i have a trailer spring shackle,
using the rubber in the pic above and make your own shackle

i guess i need to decide whether i want to buy a tubing notcher, or just spend more on parts and weld in threaded bungs and use bushings with studs on them...because that's the decision to make on where to spend the money at this point...

i did already spent $77 on the axle brackets and 4 bushings with sleeves, so getting a tubing notcher may be the direction, plus i get a new tool then!

[dsraven]

are you going for more articulation on the rear suspension or just concerned about axle wrap? here is a forum with a pic showing a kit like mentioned mounted up. there needs to be that shackle at the front to allow for some fore to aft movement as the springs compress, extend or wrap. otherwise the pivot point for the torque arm needs to be inline with the spring mount centerline. ensure the shackle has clearance for a full suspension travel both ways plus some room for safety.
remember, if welding on the axle tubes don't do all the welding at once because the axle tubes can warp from heat/shrinkage when cooling.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fin...on-bar.278005/

https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/116460340345527180/

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/...ap-bar-517106/

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/traction-bars.html

and a little thread from pirate 4x4 speaking of axle wrap and one guys fix. has pics.
some guys will run the center arm close to the driveshaft for shaft protection from high centering, just a thought.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/jb...ersion.837962/

[mr48chev]

Ideally the front pivot point on that type of setup is at the same spot the front U joint on the driveshaft on a one piece drive shaft is or the center U joint if you have a two piece drive shaft.

Functioning the same way the torque arms on 67/72 Chevy trucks or the torque arm on at least one generation of Camaros do.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by 1-ton of fun

i guess i need to decide whether i want to buy a tubing notcher,

no need for a tubing notcher (unless you just want one) you could use 3/4" sq tubing, angle or flat plate to make a torque arm. i guess i'm a diy type

torque arm on at least one generation of Camaros

yeah, my rear axle is an 86 trans am with the torque arm boss on the punkin

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

no need for a tubing notcher (unless you just want one) you could use 3/4" sq tubing, angle or flat plate to make a torque arm. i guess i'm a diy type


yeah, my rear axle is an 86 trans am with the torque arm boss on the punkin

I am very much a diy type, but I want a clean finished look also. This part will be highly visible due to the amount of lift the truck has, and not sure if I’m keeping it or selling it to help fund my 47 gmc and 53 Buick builds. I think round tube, notched with bushing ends welded in so it can unbolt from the rear end for who knows why...if I keep this truck, I’ll likely upgrade the axles to 1-tons, so I want that to be somewhat of a straightforward swap as well. Also considering if an axle gets bent or damaged in any other way where the housing needs to be replaced, it’s just a matter of welding new brackets and shock mounts on the new axle and that’s it.

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Ideally the front pivot point on that type of setup is at the same spot the front U joint on the driveshaft on a one piece drive shaft is or the center U joint if you have a two piece drive shaft.

Functioning the same way the torque arms on 67/72 Chevy trucks or the torque arm on at least one generation of Camaros do.

It will be very close. The crossmember I want to tie into for the frame mount is right at the tail end of the transfer case

[1-ton of fun]

I decided to plate the frame where the steering box mounts and also the two forward bolts have a small plate that they go through on the inside that’s not welded in but helps the spread the load. Shouldn’t have any issues with frame cracks here now!

[1-ton of fun]

Also I primed the motors oiling system and installed the distributor at the proper timing.

Going to build the exhaust system soon, once the collector reducers get here, and test fire the motor.

I just have a couple spots of body work left then I can get to work painting panels and start final assembly. I did paint one of the inner fenders over the weekend, really liking the royal blue!

Going to switch to a chrome brake mc/booster setup then start running brake lines.

Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel here!

[_Ogre]

i just found these torque arm pics in a different folder, just for ideas
1st pic is the trailer shackle i was referring to
this one has no rubber, it clanks when shifting from reverse to forward
i bolted it to the x-member behind the trans

the idea is simple.
you could weld a spring pad on the axle and use U-bolts to attach a 2x2 square tube
and a similar shackle on front and call it a torque arm

[1-ton of fun]

thanks...looking at simplifying my design. 2x2x.25" square tube, welded to a spring perch and clamped to the axle with a bushing and shackle at the frame end. shouldn't be too expensive or complicated to build and stop any wheel hop.

i do want to be able to swap out axle housings to 1-tons later without too much work, and/or adjust the angle of the TA if needed, otherwise i know i could weld the axle end all together.

[1-ton of fun]

Update on the torque arm. Just about complete with building the frame end of it, just need to clean it up a little bit more and then mount it on the frame and then test fit for length and then cut and weld it to the axle bracket.
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[Kula57]

Hey checking on how your build is going. Any more picks of the front end steering set up. thanks hope all is well