2wd swap

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Yes. Original plan was 18 inch wheels.
But they backordered til end of August so got the 20's and the rotor looks silly in there

I liked the look of OE sized front rotors in 18" wheels & the HD drums in 20's. I had that combo on my old 74 & thought the proportions looked fine (= WTF out of place).

[KQQL IT]

It's going together with the parts we have. If it stops weird I'll put the slotted stuff on my 73 and do something different on the k5
Was looking at afco calipers 1.25 rotor 4 piston deal.

[SCOTI]

I imagine it will stop just fine.

[KQQL IT]

Looking at something like this

[SCOTI]

Just need to calc the dual smaller pistons vs. a D52 big piston & see what difference there is.

[KQQL IT]

Happy 4th of July
Some more mock up stuffs

These 20's don't look to bad on my pos either

[SCOTI]

Not bad @ all.

[KQQL IT]

Big moment this evening.
Didn't lay frame by about 1" but figured that after we didn't get the 18" wheels

[KQQL IT]

Oof I likey

[KQQL IT]

Bag plate questions.
Bolt bag to plates then bolt the plate to crossmember?
The fit seems kind of sloppy

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Bag plate questions.
Bolt bag to plates then bolt the plate to crossmember?
The fit seems kind of sloppy

I noted that on the 1st pair of plates acquired (from AirRide Technologies) so that's been a day or so ago. Since then, I've made my own & build them to better follow the contour/bend. I basically 'score' a line in the plate w/a cut-off disc where I want the bend. Bend or draw the plate to better follow the contour then run a bead down it & clean it up w/a flap disc on the angle grinder.

Some plates I've seen are shorter & don't make it to the area of the curve so it just depends on the plates. Either works.

I get the plates bolted in place on the outside perimeter of the x-member. Then get the lower arm w/bag bolted in place. This allows the bag to be optimally placed in the a-arm pocket/area. Then I use a template that's reference marked from the bag for the orientation of the top mounting hardware hole locations.

[KQQL IT]

I'm thinking we're gonna cut the bag plate to fit in the spring bucket hole and weld it in.
Poke 2 holes in the top of the spring bucket for a socket with 2 studs in the air bag.

[tinydb84]

Its hard to tell what it is but is that a piece of tube welded to the top of the c notch?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Its hard to tell what it is but is that a piece of tube welded to the top of the c notch?

My guess was it's reinforcement because of the c-notch depth into the rail.
I did something similar to my 99 OBS to retain as much of the uncut OE rail strength.

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

My guess was it's reinforcement because of the c-notch depth into the rail.
I did something similar to my 99 OBS to retain as much of the uncut OE rail strength.

Thats what I was thinking.

Just make sure you are able to seal it up well so it doesnt build up a bunch of moisture and rust out.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Thats what I was thinking.

Just make sure you are able to seal it up well so it doesnt build up a bunch of moisture and rust out.

True.

My logic is if water can get in there, so can air. I stitch welded mine so I'm not worried in my Southern spot on the map but it is something to keep in mind.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Its hard to tell what it is but is that a piece of tube welded to the top of the c notch?

Keep things from moving to much with the heat of welding the side plates in and will fit between the bed floor when we're done.
Baby step notch if you will

[KQQL IT]

Its stitched in and if it sees any water I'd be surprised. That's what a daily beater is for.

[KQQL IT]

Floor is going to get hacked now. Ha
Diff is hard in to it.
Axle tube is still 6 inches from the floor yet.
And a looks like a driveshaft tunnel maybe required

[SCOTI]

Sweet jeezus. Looking nice....

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Sweet jeezus. Looking nice....

Thanks, Jay had a similar reaction.
Now to un bolt the floor and raise it. Or cut the floor and quarters.
I think the tubs alone are high enough but where the quarter bolts to the tub is in the way.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Thanks, Jay had a similar reaction.
Now to un bolt the floor and raise it. Or cut the floor and quarters.
I think the tubs alone are high enough but where the quarter bolts to the tub is in the way.

From the couple of burb threads I've watched on here, I believe you are correct (floor & quarters are the initial limitations).

[KQQL IT]

Good thing it's not a last year 2wd jimmy or anything.
Time to break in our new plasma Cutter

[Snarl95]

looking good

[blazer2007]

On my 78 I raised the floor 3 inchs and there was one piece of the tunnel I had to cut out just behind the seat. Looks likes a cross brace I replaced the whole floor as was rotten in all 4 corners but made the floor removable just in case. Also with the raised floor I could run full exhaust, was too loud for me even with quiet mufflers. Hope it helps.