Got some new wheels: Boss 338's in 20x10 and 20x8.5

[TyKby2]

Rev wheels are just licensed by AR not made by them, big difference

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by spazzyfry123

So it looks like I'm just going to need to buy them and figure it out just how much needs to be milled on the front kind of deal.

My bed is tubbed out (about double the size of the factory wells) so rubbing on the inside shouldn't be an issue... But I'm buying them to look good. It'd be silly to have them sucked in.

I just want these wheels because of the "lip" around each spoke. BUT... With the money spent on spacers, extended studs, and having the extended studs put in for the rear... Then the milling of front rotors every time brakes are needed... I'll end up spending more than if I would have just bought some TTII's. Not to mention I do not want to be running spacers with the power I'm planning on running.

Too bad for the manufacturer. No telling how much money they are losing with not getting this done right.



So... Coys or American Racing...?
Posted via Mobile Device

Spazzy,

Follow this LINK there is a drawing with the dimensions the rotors will need to be turned down to on the end. I also had to cut off the dust caps and end of the spindles for the rims to fit. Then I had to use silicone to hold the center caps on. They were an early version of these. I think the newer ones the center caps will work out better. good luck

[Andy4639]

I just put a set on my 71 and couldn't be happier! The front hub had to have just the lip shaved down took the guy about 10 minutes to do this. The backs fit fine with no spacer. I'm very pleased with how they look. Oh yea he did tap in the bearing cap a little too!

[brossow]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

The backs fit fine with no spacer.

With all due respect, I think you need to define "fine" and post your pics from the other thread so no one else is misled by this. With your 275-series tires and no spacers, you've got what looks like 1/4-1/2" of clearance, which is going to rub as the body and rear end move, especially with the trailing arm rear. Your track width is also narrower at the rear than at the front. Yes, they bolted on, but please tell the whole story before others rush out and think they can do the same as you did without any problems. For people who run a wider tire (like my 295s) and/or actually care if their tires rub, these won't "fit fine" by most standards. However, a pair of spacers can be had for under $40 that will fix this.

That said, they look great on your truck, as I've said previously. I'm not posting this as a personal attack but simply trying to clarify things. I've spent WAY too much time working with others and top management at the company itself to get this fixed and provide accurate info to now just sit back when someone comes along and says they "fit fine."

I'll save others the trouble of finding your no-spacer pics. Here they are:

[JOHNORO]

Originally Posted by brossow

With all due respect, I think you need to define "fine" and post your pics from the other thread so no one else is misled by this. With your 275-series tires and no spacers, you've got what looks like 1/4-1/2" of clearance, which is going to rub as the body and rear end move, especially with the trailing arm rear. Your track width is also narrower at the rear than at the front. Yes, they bolted on, but please tell the whole story before others rush out and think they can do the same as you did without any problems. For people who run a wider tire (like my 295s) and/or actually care if their tires rub, these won't "fit fine" by most standards. However, a pair of spacers can be had for under $40 that will fix this.

That said, they look great on your truck, as I've said previously.

I'll save others the trouble of finding your no-spacer pics. Here they are:

Now this guy has done his homework
I agree BROSSOW

[spazzyfry123]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Spazzy,

Follow this LINK there is a drawing with the dimensions the rotors will need to be turned down to on the end. I also had to cut off the dust caps and end of the spindles for the rims to fit. Then I had to use silicone to hold the center caps on. They were an early version of these. I think the newer ones the center caps will work out better. good luck

Thanks, Mike!
It looks like the newest ones don't require the dust cap to be cut up. Is it just the rotor hat surface that needs to be milled .38"? Or are there multiple angles that are needed? I'm planning on running the 20" wheels staggered and I have drop spindles. I'm not new to "making" things work with spindles and wheels, but it'd be nice if I didn't have to worry about the spindles. I had to grind down the loving crap out of my Lightning's spindles to fit the factory wheels... Sheesh.



-Tyler
Posted via Mobile Device

[brossow]

Originally Posted by spazzyfry123

Thanks, Mike!
It looks like the newest ones don't require the dust cap to be cut up. Is it just the rotor hat that needs to be milled .38"?
Posted via Mobile Device

Can't address the milling question (haven't done mine yet) but the center cap on the new (-3AA revision) wheels is held in place by an O-ring rather than the long clips that needed to be cut down in previous revisions. The clips on the old-style center caps would bottom out on the rotor hat before seating completely on the rim; the new caps are so short that they don't do that.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by spazzyfry123

Thanks, Mike!
It looks like the newest ones don't require the dust cap to be cut up. Is it just the rotor hat surface that needs to be milled .38"? Or are there multiple angles that are needed? I'm planning on running the 20" wheels staggered and I have drop spindles. I'm not new to "making" things work with spindles and wheels, but it'd be nice if I didn't have to worry about the spindles. I had to grind down the loving crap out of my Lightning's spindles to fit the factory wheels... Sheesh.

-Tyler
Posted via Mobile Device

I don't think you would have to do multiple angles or anything, I did that to try to retain as much side wall as possible on the rotor. I understand the making things work deal too.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by brossow

Can't address the milling question (haven't done mine yet) but the center cap on the new (-3AA revision) wheels is held in place by an O-ring rather than the long clips that needed to be cut down in previous revisions. The clips on the old-style center caps would bottom out on the rotor hat before seating completely on the rim; the new caps are so short that they don't do that.

Do you know if the new centercaps will fit on the older version rims? I would like to buy if they will.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Do you know if the new centercaps will fit on the older version rims? I would like to buy if they will.

Not sure (I've only had the new rims to work with) but I would guess they won't. The new ones use a rubber O-ring that seats in a groove inside the bore, which I strongly suspect isn't present on the older rims.

[HarrolLS1]

never mind!

[brossow]

Originally Posted by HarrolLS1

Hope this is not a repost but I saw this posting on their blog

http://aewc.blogspot.com/2010/03/bos...ease-caps.html

[snip]

still no update on the backspacing options!

Only a year late.

EDIT: LOL! Looks like you figured that out while I was posting my reply.

[mcbassin]

Well I guess we'll see. I would sure like to see them tweak the back spacing issue too. It sure would be cool to just bolt on a perfect fit year late and a dollar short

[djw32]

Update!

American Wheel Corp will be fixing the lip issue very soon. I will keep you posted on the info as I get it.

David

[brossow]

Originally Posted by djw32

Update!

American Wheel Corp will be fixing the lip issue very soon. I will keep you posted on the info as I get it.

David

If I had a dollar for every day that passes between when AEW says something is coming soon and when it actually arrives, I'd have enough to buy a set of Coys instead.

[djw32]

Originally Posted by brossow

If I had a dollar for every day that passes between when AEW says something is coming soon and when it actually arrives, I'd have enough to buy a set of Coys instead.

Good point. Hopefully I will have some positive info soon.

[mcbassin]

Has anyone actually purchased a set of these so called "direct bolt on" Boss 338s yet?

[brossow]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Has anyone actually purchased a set of these so called "direct bolt on" Boss 338s yet?

Yeah -- guys with the '88-up trucks they were designed for.

[k5hart]

Originally Posted by brossow

Yeah -- guys with the '88-up trucks they were designed for.

I was about to say this! Mine would have directly bolted on to my 1991 with the right tire sizes.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by brossow

Yeah -- guys with the '88-up trucks they were designed for.

The last blog I saw on there site said they were making them and had addressed the grease cap. HERE

[brossow]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

The last blog I saw on there site said they were making them and had addressed the grease cap. HERE

Check the date? That was March 2010 with the -3AA wheels that still don't fit right.

[hotrodhomi]

Originally Posted by brossow

Check the date? That was March 2010 with the -3AA wheels that still don't fit right.

They're worth the extra effort to get them to fit if you ask me. I have the 3AA series

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

They're worth the extra effort to get them to fit if you ask me. I have the 3AA series

What did you have to do to get yours to fit? Spacers in the rear and cut the rotor up front?

[hotrodhomi]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

What did you have to do to get yours to fit? Spacers in the rear and cut the rotor up front?

yes

[bguild]

So tell me who has the best deal on these? I am looking for 20x8.5 fronts with 20x10 rears? If there is a place that is cheaper let me know? I am in KC as well.