HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)

[hevymetl]

So I finally got to doing my swap over today. Took me a good hour of driving around getting more fittings to make it happen. Couldn't find the proper plug for the T so I just eliminated it and used a union. Anyway, I got everything in and bench bled the new master with no problems. I measured the new master and the depth of where the pushrod goes in and it was identical to old one. So I assumed I didn't need to mess with pushrod. I didn't get a chance to bleed the brakes yet but currently have no pedal whatsoever. Is this a bad sign?

[padresag]

an unbled system will have no pedal
ron

[hevymetl]

That's what I was hoping to hear. I'll report back once I've bled it all out. Thank you for the response.

[reed62]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

These reference pics show clearance of lines using a SB and Huggers:
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The new crossmember line can be installed with engine installed...these shot were taken when engine was out.

The front feed line was installed after the engine was in:
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The second line (pictured above) was ran down to the original first tee.

The push rod was also modified for this MC.

Pics to follow...

Chief,
Did you use bed liner on your inner fenders? It looks really nice. Great idea.

[hevymetl]

A big thanks to all the contributors to this thread. I bled everything and it works great! On to the next mission.

[truckeroy]

I did this conversion to a 64 a few years ago and last year to my current 64. I hooked everything up like in the thread mentioned. I never did get the pedal height I like. I have done a little research and in my 1971 Chilton manual under the Camaro/Chevelle section there is a drawing of a "typical" 67-70 master cylinder. It shows the front port to the front wheels and the rear port to the rear wheels. It states- "Since 1967, a dual type master cylinder is used. The front portion of the master cylinder supplies hydraulic pressure for the front wheels. Pressure for the rear wheel brake application is supplied from the rear portion of the master cylinder." I just switched my lines and have more pedal now. I still have to re bleed the lines because I may have gotten some air in while switching the lines. I'm using a 70 truck booster/mc set up.

[jayoldschool]

That's what Captainfab has always posted, too.

[LostMy65]

I'll have to try switching mine.
My pedal height isn't what I'd like it to be.

[La Zona Imagery]

What size fittings are needed? I read this thread 3 times, but I must have missed it?

[padresag]

Originally Posted by La Zona Imagery

What size fittings are needed? I read this thread 3 times, but I must have missed it?

different fittings for different places. depends on what size line etc
ron

[jayoldschool]

I did this on Friday. Brought my master in to the parts place, sat on the floor for an hour digging through bins to get the fittings perfect without adapters.

[kippnidaho]

Just to clarify..
The front of the master cylinder goes to the front brakes and rear to rear brakes?

[notsolo]

Nope Other way....... The REAR PORT, closest to the PUSHROD is the main, or "primary" chamber.

This port is for the FRONT brakes....

The FRONT PORT, furthest from the PUSHROD is the secondary chamber....supplying the REAR brakes.
Attached Imageshttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=796539&stc=1&d=1315233781

[jayoldschool]

On later disc brake systems, that is correct. On our drum/drum setup, the front port is for the front wheels.

See post #106

[ChiefRocka]

3/16" and 1/4" inverted flare....unless your going with 37, then -3/-4

[jayoldschool]

Yes, my 65 C10 was 1/4 to the fronts, then 3/16 to the rear from the T. So, I ran 1/4 from the master to the fronts, and 3/16 all the way to the back

Can't wait to drive it again! I'm doing a bathroom reno, and I need my truck!

[jayoldschool]

Here we go. This should settle it once and for all. For DRUM/DRUM applications, using a dual master (like the 67 C10/Impala unit), the FRONT port goes to the FRONT brakes.

[La Zona Imagery]

I am confused about the push rod issue. I have a 65 C10 with the original MC.

Is there something I have to do with the push rod? I am confused.

[Mike Wessinger]

If you do not add a power booster you should not need to do anything with the push rod. I changed my single to a dual, no booster, and it bolted right up and used the original push rod.

[La Zona Imagery]

Originally Posted by Mike Wessinger

If you do not add a power booster you should not need to do anything with the push rod. I changed my single to a dual, no booster, and it bolted right up and used the original push rod.

Oh ok thanks, that's what I plan to do this weekend. Just wanted to make sure before I start therjob.

[jayoldschool]

I did not do anything with my push rod.

Drove my truck a lot yesterday, including urban rush hour, and the brakes are great. Don't hesitate, do this swap.

[La Zona Imagery]

Yea I am safer now! Thanks for the infos everybody!

[jayoldschool]

Looks like that front port line is smaller. Do you have that going to the rear wheels? If so, you need to swap it to the rear port.

[La Zona Imagery]

My front port goes to the front brakes.

[Brim]

What's going on everyone? Got a question, Im installing a dual m/c on my 64 c10 with booster and I have taken off my m/c a couple of times, each time I do the push rod and brake pedal moves in out freely. Once installed (the lines are not connected) the pedal does not move downward to bleed my brakes...? Even if the lines are connected I get the same results.
Im using a doorman part #M76162, with the original single jar push rod. The m/c has been bench bled. I noticed when installing it I have to push the m/c piston in against the rod in able for it to reach the bolts before I can screw the nuts on. I think my piston is bottoming out and acting like the brake pedal is engaged. This is why the brake pedal will not travel. Am I on the right track with this assumption and if so how can it be fixed?
Also I replaced all my lines with a kit from inline tube. Keeping the exact original setup. I then realized I cannot run both lines into the same tee. Looks like I will have to add an additional line just for the brake line that feeds the rear ones and cap off a tee somewhere. So that the lines can be connected properly (Rear bowl to Front Brake Line - Front bowl to Rear Brake Line). Any info or help on the push rod and lines would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Brim