In-truck Head Removal - need advice

[highperf4x4]

If you didn't change the cam, lifters, or piston rings then you don't need a break-in.

As for the electrical stuff, I'm not the guy for that!

When you say you have a hesitation when fuel is applied I'm assuming you mean when you hit the accelerator it stumbles a little? If so, that would most likely be the accelerator pump on your carb. You might also check your vacum advance to make sure it's working good.

[c10crazy]

Originally Posted by Rippin-J

4 - Need to test the alternator.... battery keeps dying and the lights flicker when the motor is running (bad alternator right?).

On top of the passenger side core support there should be a wire with a ring terminal for the headlights. Take that bolt out and sand the top of the core support for a good ground and let us know if it helped! That was my problem a few years ago At least it won't cost anything to try!

[gcburdic]

J,

It was awesome to finally hear the engine crank for us Saturday afternoon....I appreciate you letting me help you out....I definitely learned a little bit about your engine...
I looked through my Chassis Maintenance manual last night...there is a section in there on testing the alt with a voltmeter...check it out....
Also, as the above poster said....6you may want to sand the grounds for the headlights at both connections (to the rad support)....
Let me know whent he harness gets in and I'll help you with that too!!!....
I read somewhere that a little JB weld might help with the rad leak?!?!....did you check into used rads or having that one repaired??
Wooohoooo....It sounds good...should be able to ride this weekend hopefully?!?!?

[Rippin-J]

Originally Posted by highperf4x4

If you didn't change the cam, lifters, or piston rings then you don't need a break-in.

As for the electrical stuff, I'm not the guy for that!

When you say you have a hesitation when fuel is applied I'm assuming you mean when you hit the accelerator it stumbles a little? If so, that would most likely be the accelerator pump on your carb. You might also check your vacum advance to make sure it's working good.

What's the best way to check the advance? We actually had forgotten to hook it up at first (which was when it hesitated I believe) so that could explain that little problem.

I'll check the ground today, though I am pretty sure I don't have a wire running to the rad from the light harness.

[WorkinLonghorn]

It's not unusual for a carbed engine to have hesitation when it's cold,especially if the choke isn't adjusted right. The vac advance hose off can't help much either!

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by Rippin-J

What's the best way to check the advance? We actually had forgotten to hook it up at first (which was when it hesitated I believe) so that could explain that little problem.

I'll check the ground today, though I am pretty sure I don't have a wire running to the rad from the light harness.

You really need an inductive timing light to check your total advance but if you can tell a differnce in rpm when you connect or disconnect the vacum advance then it's doing something at least. Does your truck have an HEI distributor in it?

Remember to disconnect the vacum advance when you set the timing. Otherwise you'll be way off!

[Rippin-J]

It does have an HEI. how does that affect the timing/vacuum?

I need to rent a timing light (and apparently an induction timing light) to get all that dialed in. Think I will probably wait until I get the wiring all cleaned up so that I know the motor is getting all the juice it deserves!

Can I repair the radiator or does it need to be replaced? From the looks of it, if I were to hit it with some JB Weld it would probably hold (ie, i placed a small piece of duct tape over it and it stopped it ...obviously not safe for the road!).

Finally - here are some pics I snapped of the (almost) final product. The chrome looks like crap cause it's reflecting the underside of the hood. I need to get it out into daylight and snap them again. I don't like chrome anyways... but the orange sure is bright!

[highperf4x4]

Is the radiator aluminum or copper?

[Rippin-J]

not sure. easy way to tell? my guess is that it is NOT aluminum, but that's just a guess.

[gcburdic]

Definitely copper.....Those pics remind me that we spent 16 hrs under that hood disassembling and putting it back together...LOL

[highperf4x4]

Well the pics look great!

If the radiator is copper you may be able to solder it. You have a soldering gun?

If it's on a flat surface then run a self tapper in it with a rubber washer!!

[Rippin-J]

I do have a soldering gun, and it's one of the tiny little fins that looks like it was kinked sideways and created a little hole no bigger than the tip of a #2 pencil. It's near the top and it seems to leak more (obviously) when the level in the rad it higher.

Do I need copper solder or can I just use the stuff I have that I use for electrical applications?

Another small update - I replaced the battery today and upgraded to a GM internally regulated alternator. It runs WAY better now, though there is still a key-off drain AND some adjusting to do either in the timing or in the vacuum. However, today was the first time I've ever had the choke function properly!

Getting closer!

[highperf4x4]

Just don't use an acid core solder and make sure the water level has been below the hole for a day with the radiator cap off.

[Rippin-J]

got it. on the to-do list for thursday.

just got a fire under my butt and spent the last hour on the wiring... was able to solve my key-off gremlin drain, straightened out the wiring to the cig lighter, radio, dizzy, brake bias, and electric choke. miraculously enough, they were all running into the SAME 15A batt terminal in the fuse box! imagine that.

SO i think a huge portion of my electrical problem have just been solved.

still left to diagnose:
- why temp gauge doesn't work (maybe related to crappy engine harness)
- why oil pressure gauge doesn't work (kinked or clogged line ...good idea GCB)


Then it's off to the races!

[gcburdic]

Awesome Jordan!!!.....Glad you were able to figure out that gremlin!!!

So did you rewire the regulator like that FAQ thread???.....

Also, I got time Friday to help out with anything....could be there around 11:30a....call me or let me know....

[Rippin-J]

Yeah, exactly like they described in that thread. Took less than 20 min and that included me messing with the top alt mount for 15! New alt puts out around 60amp, which considering I am not running anything aftermarket in the electrical, should be plenty to juice the system. The one in it was around 30 I think.

Mom is coming into town to help me pack all my stuff up on Friday. I would love to spend a couple hours spinning wrenches, but I'll have to get a read on her and keep you posted.

[highperf4x4]

[Rippin-J]

it's comin'! want to get that rad leak sealed before i go spraying juices all over the motor again.

[highperf4x4]

[Rippin-J]

what do you all think of this? consistently putting out some blue smoke, though not 'puking' it out by any means. not much worse when rpms are increased... mostly noticeable while idling. I assume this the blowby issue mentioned previously as a result of higher compression. Will Rislone or some form of ring seal help?

YouTube - Running Motor, Blue Smoke

[mikajo39]

looks like you might burning a little bit of oil. Does it smoke less when its warmed all the way up?

[highperf4x4]

Yeah that's oil burn from your rings. It's not that bad really but not much you can do about it.

Blowby is what goes into your crankcase past the rings. You'd see it coming out of your valve covers and when it's really bad it heats your oil up even more and thins it out. Some Lucas Oil Stabilizer will help if it gets to be noticeable. Make sure you have a new pcv valve in one valve cover and a breather in the other.

[Rippin-J]

Originally Posted by mikajo39

looks like you might burning a little bit of oil. Does it smoke less when its warmed all the way up?

actually. from what I can tell it burns less oil when it's first started! the hotter it gets the more blue smoke I see coming out. The video was taken after it had run for about 45 minutes (trying out a little rad leak stop).

Originally Posted by HiPo

It's not that bad really but not much you can do about it.

so are you saying I should just shut up and stop worrying?

well... I'd say this project is about 98% completed. I still need to seal up the radiator, and I still need to fuss around with the brakes and wiring, but the in-truck head removal is all but done.

my schedule is about to get pretty wild over the next few weeks (beach this weekend, packing my house and moving out next week, then off to CO and WY for 3 weeks) so the truck will be sitting for a little bit unfortunately. I might get one good run at it next week sometime, but I'm all over the place otherwise.

I purchased some in-radiator stop-leak today that claims to plug up just about any hole. So far not terribly impressed, but I will keep my eye on it (and the rad level) to see how that works out. I tried my best to do a clean soldering job, but that stuff is so tricky to work with I couldn't get a clean repair. I also need to get the timing dialed in... found a good shop nearby and I thought I'd buzz over there and see what they can't do and what I can't learn from them. Might be worth the $60/hr to get a hands-on lesson in tuning a motor... we'll see though.

Last but not least, I still owe everyone a burnout... so that's on the list for next week before I jet town!

Otherwise, thanks so much to everyone that contributed to the thread, I really have enjoyed the experience and have learned a TON. not to mention it feels pretty bad ass to tell people you just got done 'rebuilding (the top-end) of the motor' then jump in and roar off down the road!!!

[highperf4x4]

Awesome job rippin!!!

I can't believe you dove into your truck and tore the motor down just a few weeks before you were moving out! That's brass balls!

It sounds to me like you did a better job than alot of "mechanics" I've seen on here lately. I really am impressed. The next go around will be to jerk it out and build a performance engine!!

[gcburdic]

Good Job J....If need be you can leave it at my house and I can put a few miles on it while you're gone!!!....LOL....
So it sounds like you got all the wiring taken care of too....now get that Rad fixed!!!hahaha.....
Thanks for letting me dive into this with you...learned ALOT....Keep in touch.....Geoff